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GMC Yukon XL Engine and Dash Lights

Dash lights,

Traction control off.
Stabilitrack off.
Service Traction Control.
Service Stabilitrack.
Flashing Engine Light.
Solid Engine Light.

Happens in that sequence every time.

Bought this used GMC Yukon XL truck a half year ago, everything was fine until we took long trips. I am in the North Bay, California. We took a trip to Oregon and one to Vegas. Now even 2 or 3 hour trips the same sequence happens.

First the Stabilitrack and Traction control lights then the service Stabilitrack and service Traction control, then flashing engine light, then solid engine light.

Truck still runs fine, temp is good, battery is good, oil good, handling good....

The dealership laughs at me, they said they looked at it and saw no problems; they said they had fixed it and it was not an issue. I went back out a 1000+ trip and the same lights pop up again.

I have my own mechanic look at it and he put on a “flight recorder" because the diagnostic machines /computers didn’t catch the codes.

Yet the flight recorder didn’t help much.

Also the cylinders are logging misfires, 100,000 misfires on first 2 cylinders up to 800,000 misfires on the last. Yet I am being told they dont actually misfire.

How do I stop the above described dash light sequence? (Solid Engine Light)

Any Help or Ideas are greatly appreciated. My wife drives this car and I want to assure her safety and reliability.

Comments

  • brownboybrownboy Posts: 1
    I have an 07 yukon with the same problems was wondering what you found wrong with yours ?? :sick:
  • It has been to my personal mechanic again, and they have spent 10 more hours on it, trying to decipher the codes.

    Problem is that when the computer read the misfires, it shuts down the Stabilitrack and the Traction control because it thinks if the engine is misfiring, something is wrong and thus shutting off the computer controlled Stabilitrack and Traction control,

    Yet when we go to check the cylinders that are "misfiring" they are not misfiring at all, rather they are throwing false codes, but the car or computer dose not understand.

    Best thing to do, is bring the car into a certified GMC dealer, yet the solid engine light has to be on.

    For instance, I drove 400+ miles this last weekend and all the symptom’s that I discussed in the first post happened again, the engine light has been on for 3 days now, so I brought it into the dealer, with the engine light on, left it running and said, "look last time I brought this car in you all told me you couldn't replicate and-or duplicate the symptoms I discussed, well this time all the prior symptoms happened again and the engine light is still on and the car is running, so I don't want the run around I want the car fixed under the warranty policy and I have contacted GMC corporate and they are tracking me, the car and you the dealer, with a case number"

    Now that I have brought the car in two times I have logged the incident with GMC corporate, there is a history behind the issue and even if the warranty is up, they'll have to take care of it, because it was all documented before the warranty expiration.

    One note, the car needs to be running around 1700 rpm for an hour or two, or taken on 1 to two hour trip.

    Or in my case on 1000 miles trips, where the idiot light and chimes are going the whole time, what a annoying thing………

    :sick: :confuse: :mad: :( :cry:
  • found it, fixed it. very detailed incident. tech support did what the dealer couldn't
  • drjeffdcdrjeffdc Posts: 3
    What was it, Mine is doing the same thing?
  • A. Customer notes SES warning light is on, see history for related concerns. Check and Report---- Runs Fine. Computer shows misfires but does not. Does not happen idle. Must be around 1700 rpm’s.

    Cause: F

    J180 Engine Emissions
    6WG94
    1 12626222 belt
    1 12609719 tensioner

    33110 check out check engine lite. Scan computer control system. Found code P0300. Perform basic checks. Found misfire graph is showing all cylinders missing, when they really weren’t. Check fuel pressures, ok. Perform active fuel injector test. Injector test passed. Called tech-line. Tech-line said to remove serpentine belt and reset. Sure enough misfires are gone. Cause is belt tensioner bouncing and dragging on the crank. Tech-line said to replace belt and tensioner. Replaced belt and tensioner. Clear codes, drain capacitors, and perform crankshaft variation relearn. Retest for misfires, none. Road test, ok.
  • daboss3daboss3 Posts: 1
    OMG - can't believe it- My Yukon 2007 XL has that exact problem; Dealer has been working on it for about a month. Told us that after they ran all the diagnostics and couldn't decipher a problem with the sytem codes - we needed a major tune up. Replaced plugs and wire connectors and it rode fine. About a week later - same sequence of messages appeared. Took it back and couldn't find anything except discovered one of the plugs in the tune kit was damaged and replaced entire kit. Back again in a week - again, same system errors on computer. This time finally found out something, but Dealer had to actually contact GMC to help diagnose. Check this out . . . Our Yukon has the Flex-fuel system along with the engine conserves fuel on road trips by switching between 8/6/4 cylinders as the systems determines. Have to admit, this is absolutely FANTASTIC on gas usage / mileage. Anyhow, problem diagnosed in "lay terms" as: engine lifters are sticking and cylinder heads are leaking internally. Go figure - truck is only 3 years old, but does have 116k miles. Dealer is baffled and pretty much is putting it on the engine technology of cylinders shifting on gas conservation. Of course, we are going to get another opinion. Any thoughts are appreciated !
  • Sounds a little different then my issue, as my issue was clearly explained, after much trouble shooting. I did have the same sequence of errors, yet mine problem was belt tensioner bouncing and dragging on the crank.

    "Called tech-line. Tech-line said to remove serpentine belt and reset. Sure enough misfires are gone. Cause is belt tensioner bouncing and dragging on the crank. Tech-line said to replace belt and tensioner. Replaced belt and tensioner. Clear codes, drain capacitors, and perform crankshaft variation relearn. Retest for misfires, none. Road test, ok"

    The way I got results was, after going to the local GMC dealer for 2 or 3 times, I called GMC corporate and told them of my dissatisfaction with the product and they opened a ticket, tracked it and contacted my dealer and told my dealer to get it done. The other big help was my dealer then calling the corporate GMC service "tech-line" and they had a fix-all as this has to have happened on previous occasions, due to their quick knowledge about crankshaft and serpentine belt info.

    Bottom line call corporate, tell them you want it fixed, tell them you very dissatisfied with the product and will never buy gmc again, you will share your story with everyone, unless they figure out the problem. Make sure someone has contacted GMC tech-line. Tell them about my story and see of they have diagnosed the problem right or if they are just "throwing out ideas and solutions" like darts in the dark...
  • drjeffdcdrjeffdc Posts: 3
    Finally got mine fixed!!!! So simple. It has been acting up for 4 years, gauges bounce, warnings flash, Wouldn't start from time to time.

    The other day it wouldn't start and I poped the hood. grabbed the wire harness to the computer box and shazam! it started. I then notice the conection was not senched down all the way which led me to suspect the contacts were drawing moisture, as humidity and weather seemed to make worse. I removed connection and sprayed it down real good with electronic cleaner to clean and dry it. plugged it back in and it is like new again. cleared the codes and all seems to be better than ever now. You guys might try this. An awnsered prayer for me! The Garages just wanted to take yo money with no results!
    :)
  • drjeffdc, good stuff, thanks for posting. I figure if we all post as much as we can, we'll have a "brain trust" here and we can help each-other as well as GMC and what ever "Mechanic" or owner operator is trying to fix the issues...
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,086
    Hello Daboss3,
    I apologize that you are experiencing a concern with your vehicle. Can you please email me your VIN so I can look into the situation further? You can get my email by clicking on gmcustsvc. Thank you,
    Mariah GM Customer Service
  • drjeffdcdrjeffdc Posts: 3
    It has been several weeks and no problems. I declare it FIXED!!!!! AMEN!!!! Thank you JESUS!!!!! :)
  • tborchmantborchman Posts: 7
    my yukon broke down while on the highway the dashboard flashed engine failure then abs system failure etc. had it towed to my gm dealership and they said the heat drained the battery cells my battery only had 30 ooo miles on it as i changed it 3 years ago picked up car yesterday and the same failure occured after driving four mile only what do you think?
  • flomasterflomaster Posts: 2
    I have 130K on this 6.0 L engine and have an intermittent problem that has been driving me nuts. I can sometimes just start the engine and it starts rough ( misfires) or drive up to 50 plus miles with it running smooth, before I receive engine code P0301 - Cylinder #1 misfire. I have replaced the following over the course of 6 months ever since it did not pass emission testing from the service engine soon lamp.
    1. Cylinder #1 coil pack.
    2. Plug wires had only 15K miles on them, so I swapped out cylinder #1 wires with another cylinder, the trouble did not follow.
    3. Replaced both O2 sensors, upstream and downstream on bank one side ( drivers side of engine).
    4. Paid to have injector cleaner fed directly into the fuel rails along with a gas tank injector chemical.

    Recapping, this is an intermittent problem, maybe 60-70% of the time the engine is driving rough. I have a decent error code scanner that provides lots of information. I can clear the error code and wait for it to come back.

    Any ideas before I start going back and re checking / changing all the above again?
  • I have a 2007 Yukon Denali XL, I bought it brand new off the lot in March 2007 and have had nothing but problems with it since then, just came across this forum today because my traction control, service suspension, stabilitrack light and check engine light came on last week, so I took it to the dealer on Friday the 3rd of December. They came back saying that I needed a camshaft position actuator, a new left rear shock, and a new electronic suspension control module for a whopping 2517.00 + tax. mind you this truck is only 3 years old. reading thru these forums it looks like everybody is having the same issues. I have the bubbled chrome handles that they won't fix because I have 90,000 miles on my truck(My bad I guess your supposed to buy the truck and then just park it in the driveway), my truck has left me stranded multiple times because the battery issue? starts fine one day and then have to jump it the next day with no rhyme or reason, when I jump it the radio shuts down completely and the only way to get it to come back on is to disconnect the battery and then wait for a minute and let it reboot? replaced the battery just recently and it has been working so far. Center armrest is all cracked right where my elbow sits(cheap leather I assume,on my $65,000 POS, just goes along with all the plastic chrome). had to replace the rear brake calipers because the cheap ones that were put on seized and pushed the piston into the rotor, thank god I caught it before I had to replace the rotors also. sorry for the long winded post. I'm just really disgusted with this vehicle that I had so much pride in buying. It would take a miracle for me to ever look at or even recommend a GMC yukon Denali to ANYONE!! :( :(
    So does anyone have some suggestions if I should take their word that I need all that stuff or should I get a second opinion? Looks like alot of people have the same problems I have and just don't know where to turn.
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,086
    trussman69,
    If you do not trust the diagnosis I would recommend getting a second opinion. Please keep me updated on your progress.
    Christina
    GM Customer service
  • Thanks for the response, a weird thing happened yesterday I have not been driving my truck since I had it checked but, we only have 2 vehicles and I had to use it yesterday. So I jumped in started it up and not even one warning message came, how is that possible? drove it all day with no warnings or lights coming on. It's not like the camshaft actuator can fix itself or do the lights only stay on for a few days?
  • I have similar issue with my 2004 olds alero and have not been able to resolve it up until now. I tried replacing bunch of sensors changed canister purge solenoid because the vacuum line on that I had found bad and also replaced the vacuum line. I replaced throttle position sensor, idler air control valve, pcv valve, cleaned my maf sensor, also checked map sensor and had fuel injection flush. I had upper intake and plenum replaced a bolt on plenum was cracked causing a leak, but still no answer but needless to say I finally decided to check my pulleys today and wallah bad tensioner for my serpintine belt. I also changed plugs a few times, coil pack, wires the main culprits but no luck until today so far so good. Check your intake for leaks or your tensioner just a suggestion. I bought my car a month a go and dealer cannot figure it out and they have had it more than I have. I get p0301 misfire code very randomly on cold starts I believe I finally resolved my issue I will keep you posted if it changes hope this helps
  • I also have a 2007 GMC Yukon xl denali that has nothing but problems from the day I bought it!
    Most noted is the chrome rims corroding from the inside out! I'm a car guy and know how to take care of aluminium rims,but the cheaply made chinese garbage metal they use is horrible.
    All 4 rims leak air everyday,I had to buy a air compresser and duct tape it to my car just so I could drive around!
    My air suspension leaks all the time so I have to use 4x4's on roller skates to keep my bumper from dragging on the ground.
    I was driving down the highway and the cheap plastic cover that's on the top of the rear lift gate flew off and got ran over by a semi,now it catches air and pulls to one side so I had to take an old airplane flap and rivit it down to stop the madness on the highway.
    I WILL NEVER BUY GMC AGAIN! NEVER!
  • matzkeclanmatzkeclan Posts: 1
    Like all of you I have had the same problems, traction control , stabilitrac, suspension, check engine , blah blah blah. Dealer takes code...da da da... Replace camshaft accuator ... Aka..Hey let's throw parts in it and sooner or later it will get fixed or you'll go broke! Didn't fix it! Next response from dealer is your engine is junk need a new one or trade it in... Aka.. We have no flippin clue what we r doing so let's replace everything or rape u on a sale! So I took it somewhere else. First put In New oil pump and that fixed the lights. Also over hauled top end. Runs like a champ. Next problem..da da daaaa ..water in head linear and carpet.. Drain tubes from sunroof drain into pillars filled with foam which soak up water and drain no where just evaporates!!! Also cracked plastic connector that connects tube to overflow tray thus giving me water in head linear. And since water sits in my c- pillar in the foam da da daaaa. It's now rusting my rear quarter panels on both sides at same time right where the wet foam is. .. Next problem.... Cracked dash!!! Don't get me wrong I love my car but this is bull****!!!!!! Makes me never want to by GM again! My honda pilot can run circles around gm as far as reliability and making a better vehicle then a turd box on wheels!
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