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Volvo S60



  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 17,148
    If its happening over small bumps, it is most likely the swaybar endlinks. Very very common replacement item. The other possibility is the upper strut mounts, but the endlinks is more likely the culprit.

    '13 Stang GT; '86 Benz 300E; '98 Volvo S70; '12 Leaf; '14 Town&Country

  • sbearbsbearb Posts: 4
    Thank you so very much for the insight! I'll keep you posted on what I find out ;)
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 17,148
    No problem.

    By the way, if you are interested in doing the work yourself, it is a very simple repair. Additionally, aftermarket heavy duty endlinks are available. The stock links fail on a periodic basis while the aftermarket ones, I believe, carry a lifetime warranty. The are more expensive, however. Stock replacements are ~$30 and the aftermarkets are ~$100.

    Here are the ones from IPD

    '13 Stang GT; '86 Benz 300E; '98 Volvo S70; '12 Leaf; '14 Town&Country

  • sbearbsbearb Posts: 4
    Great! I will be selling the car so I guess the stock replacements will be fine.
    Do you think the repair is simple enough for a beginner (and a female)? By the way that is not a trick question! :blush: If so, where could I find some simple demo/instructions?

    Thanks once again :shades:
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 17,148
    I took a quick look around and can't seem to find detailed instructions. However, I did find several people stating they had a problem with siezed endlinks ... so you may not want to tackle this. I would THINK you shouldn't be looking at more than $150 total to have a dealer replace them. If you want, though, to be sure, you can get under the car and grab hold of the endlink and see if it is loose. If you can easily turn it back and forth by hand, its definitely bad. The stock endlinks have rubber bushings where they attach to the swaybar and where they attach to the strut housing. When those wear out, the endlink can be wiggled without much effort. When new, it is pretty tough to turn them by hand. Here is a pic I found on volvospeed from a poster named "lookforjoe" to maybe help you identify it.


    '13 Stang GT; '86 Benz 300E; '98 Volvo S70; '12 Leaf; '14 Town&Country

  • sbearbsbearb Posts: 4
    You have gone ABOVE and BEYOND any help that I ever expected to get on a forum! Thank you for the time you took to assist someone who doesn't know much when it comes to this. :P By the way, the pic REALLY helps!
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 17,148
    glad to help

    '13 Stang GT; '86 Benz 300E; '98 Volvo S70; '12 Leaf; '14 Town&Country

  • alextungalextung Posts: 2
    Hey guys, I have a 01 S60 2.4T and it has problem. I began to feel vibration when accelerating the car a while ago and heard some scratch noise from the front wheel since about 2 weeks ago after a trip to death valley.

    I took the car to the dealership and I was told the transmission has problem. I was told I need to replace a new transmission and both drive shafts. Plus labor it will cost me a forturn. Man I cannot afford that much on it and that's not what I wanted to do.

    I appreciate if any of you can recommend a garage in Las Vegas which is reliable and good at dealing with volvo and/or transmission work? I hope there is some expert can help me do a rebuilt. It doesn't have to be too cheap but should not rape me off. Thanks.
  • bbrimmerbbrimmer Posts: 32
    Hello. I'm in the market for a S60 AWD. My question was whether I should buy new or look at 05-06-07 and pocket the difference? My other choice was the S80, but believe it or not, for me the leather front seats in the S60 are more comfortable.
    I'm talking the 07-08 S80. Many thanks.
  • alltorquealltorque Posts: 535
    I bought my S60 D5 SE at just over a year old. It's an ex-Volvo UK car and had 6500 miles on from new. Perfect condition in every way, great dealer and approx £7k under new list. Bit of a no-brainer for me. However, this is the U.K. and you can't get the D5 which is a crying shame as it's a stunner. Agree about the seats. Driving U.K. to Switzerland/Italy/Austria/Germany was completely pain free. :)

    I'd probably buy the latest non-new car, with the best price, I could find...........unless there is some serious reason not to, (but can't think what).
  • volvomaxvolvomax Posts: 5,274
    Depending on where you are,finding a new S60 AWD may be very difficult.

    Nothing wrong w/ looking at a used CPO model.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 17,148
    Because of the steep depreciation, I wouldn't think of NOT buying used.

    '13 Stang GT; '86 Benz 300E; '98 Volvo S70; '12 Leaf; '14 Town&Country

  • gregd1gregd1 Posts: 38
    I really like the Volvo s60. However the headrests are not adjustable. And during my test drive, my neck really started to hurt. I know they are not adjustable. So this is taking the Volvo off my list.

    But do others have this problem also?

    I know its for safety in a crash. But the position just seems wrong. making your neck jet forward. and your head stick out in front of your body. Its the old adage, about holding a bowling ball close to your body. As opposed to holding it out way in front of your body. You know?
  • cbbarecbbare Posts: 1
    HELP!!! HELP!!! HELP!!! I love my 2002 turbo S60 VOLVO up until now. I am really stressing with this issues here, I went to the store got back in my car to start it up and when I got to the first stop light I noticed the dashboard had gone out.. Just blanked out. The car ran just fine but the instrument panel was dead. It will come back on just to go right back out. No output. I can't predict when the dash will go out. I can't tell if there is gas in the car when the dash goes out. If I push down on the button to reset the mileage I can see where the gauges are only for the moment I push the button down. The radio panel works just fine. What could have happened? I took the car to a Volvo repair shop and they are asking for 1,400 to fix. This is crazy; he made it seem like normal wear and tear. Could it be anything else? Has anyone out there had a problem like this? Please respond.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 17,148
    I haven't heard of this, personally ...
    what exactly do you mean it goes dead? You mean all the needles drop to zero? But then you say you push the reset button and you can see them again for a second. I'm not sure what that means. Do the needles start working for a second? Or are you only talking about the dash lights at night?

    but when you say "volvo repair shop," what are you referring to? If not a dealer, I would try a dealer.

    '13 Stang GT; '86 Benz 300E; '98 Volvo S70; '12 Leaf; '14 Town&Country

  • Hi there,

    I have a 06' S60 and am bringing it in for 7,500 maintenance at 22.5k mileage. Can anyone give me what the typical cost of this maintenance is?
  • alltorquealltorque Posts: 535
    Sorry, no real idea. Here in U.K. the S60, (petrol or diesel), is only due a service every 18k miles or 1 year, whichever comes sooner. 7.5k miles interval is an insult to Volvo engineering................or a huge money-maker. :mad:

    18k service here costs circa GBP380, ($650 ?), from a Volvo main dealer. At least that's what I've been told to expect when my '06 S60 D5 goes in for its second 18k service in Nov.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 17,148
    It should only be an oil change.
    So ~$50-$60, unless you are using synthetic, which pushes it quite a bit higher.

    '13 Stang GT; '86 Benz 300E; '98 Volvo S70; '12 Leaf; '14 Town&Country

  • Any leads appreciated!

    The trigger button on my 2002 S60 broke off, one of the small plastic connections broke. I'm living with it wrapped in electrical tape!

    I'm beginning to believe that goolge and other are paid NOT to provide self help if possible.....Days of searching about multiple bulb failures as well.

    There has GOT to be a self help fix over the 400+ dollar repair and rental car fee.

    Thank you,
    Love my Volvo, Hate the multiple repairs.
  • tim15tim15 Posts: 10
    My S60 is at the dealer because non of the instruments or gauges are working. Blinkers dont work, and a few other things. Problem started when I disconnectedthe battery to remove the ABS control Unit. I was told my unitl could not be rebuilt, so I reinstalled it. Problem started after I reconnected the battery. The dealer wants around $1000 to replace the SIm Unit, and them they will look at the ABS control until. Any suggestions? The car has over 100K, and I'm not sure I want to put another $2000 in to it. Thanks
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