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Mitsubishi Diamante

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  • Wow,
    You guys make your "D" brake problems sound so much more serious than the current Firestone and Ford recall and the 1993-95 BMW V8 sulphur problem where the whole engine had to be replaced.

    Is there anybody out there who died yet from the "D"'s brakes failing or anything else for that matter?

    ...If so please feel free to register your input in this discussion group ;-)

    -C-
  • vivonavivona Posts: 410
    Assuming that your wheels are all within lateral and radial runout, you want to be sure that the total radial runout of the mounted tire is less than .050" The Hunter GSP9700 can measure both the wheel runout and the tire runout, so if you have any vibration problems, get the tires rebalanced with the Hunter.

    You can measure radial runout of a tire by jacking the tire off the ground, then placing a fixed pointer just touching the center area of the tread (not in a groove) so that the pointer just touches the tire when the highest part rotates by. Then rotate the tire until the gap between the pointer and tire is the largest and measure the gap with a feeler gauge. I like to see it less than .040.

    Remember a tire can have low radial runout and still vibrate if the sidewalls have stiffness variances around the circumference. That's what the Hunter balancer can check out.
  • vivonavivona Posts: 410
    I do not deny that some Diamante owners have brake problems. I have not seen evidence that most do. But I certainly would be willing to help find the cause for those that are having problems. I wrote an extensive article on the subject and posted it on the web, but many people don't want to be bothered with finding a solution. Unfortunately, when your dealer can't find the problem, you often have to find it yourself. I have done that for over 30 years with many kinds of cars and many types of problems.

    Since I am not experiencing the brake problem with my Diamante, it is hard to determine what is happening to the cars of those that do have a problem. If any of you brake posters are experienced in mechanical repair, particularly brake repair, and want to help find the cause of the brake problem, I would like to hear from you. I will provide some easy things to measure and monitor to see what is happening. But I want someone that will be willing to stay with the diagnostic project and make all the measurements and report the results. The cost for the measuring tools around $20.

    Anyone interested?
  • camoncamon Posts: 98
    In response to ccancio post # 73, I have a 98 D and I had a 92 D prior to it. I do mostly highway driving and have had trouble with the front brakes on both cars. I have contacted Mitsubishi on both vehicles and have all the repair invoices to document the problem (which I also sent to Mitsubishi). It's not until you have the problem with your D that you will come to appreciate the feedback posted on this board. My intent is not to complain, but to get the facts out so that the manufacturer will fix the damn problem on what is an other great car.
    As far as safety is concerned, my 92 D did not have antilocks, and with a full load of 4 passengers breaking on wet roads from highway speeds it was dangerous because of alternate front wheel brake fluctuation and resultant front end instability.
    Did you know that there was a NHTSA recall on D's manufactured from AUG 91 to Dec 93 ( Mfg recall #96V143002) to replace the front break hoses and I was never notified of it by Mitsubishi or the dealers even though I owned the car for 2 years after the recall?
    The goal of most contributors on this site is to provide factual data to get problems fixed and not to merely provide opinionated commentary. If you have factual solutions feel free to post them.
    Your comment that I am affiliated with any other person on the site is just plain wrong. If you went back through the site you would find my prior posts on the brake problem way before the appearance of the 2 individuals you mentioned. You would also find that I praised the vehicle on just about every other aspect except the front brakes.
  • >The goal of most contributors on this site is to
    >provide factual data to get problems fixed and >not to merely provide opinionated commentary.

    That's interesting- show me a discussion group on the 'net that does NOT have its basis on "...opinionated commentary." Everybody has opinions including yourself and you post them in this discussion group. An example of opinion is the quote I took from your last post.

    Regurgitated opinions/posts tests some peoples patience here including mine. When I see those posts queried and/or challenged and the original poster doesn't reply in a fair amount of time (say... 3 days!!!) one would fairly judge that that post was made by a "Troll" or somebody who posts to incite needless debate on bogus info.

    Even after all that stuff you wrote, you still haven't answered the question on what area do you live in the US and in what conditions you usually drive in (...snow etc)! Its hard for people like me (who have no problems with my "D") to comprehend posts like yours if you don't explain your environment. Is this break problem isolated on the East coast of the US, or maybe just snow prone areas ?

    After sending all your notes regarding the problem to Mitsubishi, did they reply back and if so what did they say?

    -C-
  • Thank you for posting. I am looking for a solution to the constant front rotors warping problem. Mine is a '97 D.

    Powerslot - Can you give me more information on what part number you used for the Powerslot rotors?

    I called Powerslot this morning after reading your post. Powerslot told me over the phone that they only have rotors up to the '96 D, none for the '97 and newer.

    Can you help me out a little more. I am very willing to buy better rotors on my own than the junk that Mitsubishi appears to be putting on. I have had 2 sets of factory front rotors on my car. They always warp after 6 to 8K miles, when new, and after being turned on all the latest equipment.

    Anyone know? Has Mitsubishi changed the front rotors, or any other front brake components in the '99 or '00 Diamantes?
  • camoncamon Posts: 98
    Response to #87. Some of us work and do not have time to get on the boards every day or week for that matter. My first 92D did not have any brake problems until after 90,000 miles then it could not be fixed by any dealer . I had reccuring problems until 200,000 miles when I disposed of the 92D and got a 98D. The 98D developed the same problem at 22,000 miles and cannot be fixed (at least through today). Mitsubishi on the 92D said it was a dealer problem and that the car was out of warranty and refused to get involved. On the 98D which was under warranty, they said they would call me to follow up and never did so I just wrote to them again and they have yet to respond. To answer your second question, I drive in the midatlantic area, but not near the coast. Very little if any snow or salt air. I have driven over 245,000 miles in D's and if they would get the front brake problem fixed they would have a damn good car. I hope you get the pleasure of getting your brakes replaced and run into the same problem so we can talk on the same level.
  • vivonavivona Posts: 410
    In the past some of you Diamante fans have asked when the Diamante model will change.

    The Diamante is imported from Australia where it is called the Verada. Looking at the current Verada gives a hint of what they may export for a Diamante in the future. Though the 2001 model remains unchanged, there is supposed to be a facelift in 2002 or 2003.

    So...what does the new Verada look like? Visit the Mitusbishi Australia site and see:

    http://www.mitsubishi-motors.com.au/verada_sedan/index.asp?page=vehiclespec&typeid=9&modelid=15
  • I went through the warped rotors thing three
    times on the front brakes of my '92 Diamante until I heard about the new(er) Raybestos QS (Quiet Stop) Ceramic brake pads. I called and they had just released a version for my application. I contacted Brake Masters here in Scottsdale, AZ and they ordered them and swapped them out for the existing ones under warranty - the difference which was about
    $70. I have not had ANY problems since and
    my D now stops quicker and I have almost no dusting anymore.

    They are more $$$ than normal brake pads but they
    are supposed to last longer and be much more
    resistant to heating up (important in Az!!!)

    The only production cars I know of that now
    have them OEM is Porche.

    If you are interested either check out the Raybestos site or check with a repair shop.
    I'm not sure if any other companies have
    released ceramics ones yet (I think some
    shops have put there house brand name on them)
    as Raybestos claims to have pionered them.

    Hope this helps some!!!
    Scott McRae
  • I have a "97 Diamante Ls. The last and most expensive mitsubishi made before discontinuing the line in 1998. Anyway, I have had brake problems with this thing from the outset. I have to pull the emergency brake handle all the way up for it to engage and when engaged still does not stop the car from moving--forward or backward. I've been to the shop many times, complained to MMCA and there were several fixes done. One because the hoses for the front brakes was to short, was kinking and causing sporadic stopping. The noise stopped; the brakes were a little better. But they still felt mushy when stopping in a non-panic way. Anyway, I had a lease and I owned a '94 I loved it.I just recently re-ended another car in front of me in a funeral procession that was able to stop very quickly, but I was not. However, I guess I can't blame it on the brakes, but, all the other cars in close proximity were able to stop without sliding. Of course they weren't diamante. I'm turning it in and walking away. However, I may get the Montero Sport 4WD SUV. Except for crashing reviews read pretty good. Don't expect to crash too many times. Anyway, the brakes, transmissions and A/C are notorious problems with this car. No One is paranoid. If You're lucky enough to get one that does not exhibit these problems,then great. Oh, Yes I too had to replace my transmission at 15000 miles. Great car , poor quality.
  • There are some people who post here that try to downplay the seriousness of the front rotor warping problem on Diamantes 97 and newer.

    Some facts gleaned from these boards:

    There appear to be more than 22 people who have posted about repeated front rotor warping problems, and the inability of Mitsubishi and authorized dealers to fix it. The factory and dealers continue to blame everyone but themselves and take responsibility, despite it being the overwhelming problem of topics posted here. This is statistically significant, as the number of people posting here is small, despite the number of posts. And some, I suspect, are just MMA plants trying to gently shift the blame everywhere else to postpone dealing with the problem, or hoping it will go away.

    Also, re: the suggestion to write to the President of MMA - one poster shared his experience about doing that, it got him nowhere, just more runaround.

    I searched through sample discussion threads here on Edmunds and found only one other model that has the same level of complaints about warping rotors: the Oldsmobile Alero 99. Please take a look at it by typing "rotors" in search topic, also look at the separate "Alero" topic to see the what happened and how it was fixed. GM, to it's credit, moved quickly to solve the problem. They changed the rotor design immediately, and upgraded the front rotors and pads on all cars with the problem, no questions asked, no blame on poor driving habits, no blame on poor mechanics!

    If only Mitsubishi could be as honest.

    Also, there are far more Aleros sold in the US than there are Diamantes, and yet our boards have a higher level of complaints on the rotors than the Alero. From this, I suspect the Diamante problem is more severe.
  • On post #94
    > And some, I suspect, are just MMA plants trying
    > to gently shift the blame everywhere else to
    > postpone dealing with the problem, or hoping it
    > will go away.

    And conversely you could be a Toyota or Acura/Honda plant trying to destroy Mitsubishi for market dominance, but I guess any good conspiracy theorist will never really know huh?

    The more you write the more you sound like our old buddy Bohlen!

    Talking about Bohlen... usually when he sees a poster supporting his 'D' brake rotor view he would jump at a chance to joun at the fun and gloat.

    Where are you Bohlen, past experience would have thought you'd eat this up!!!

    By the way at 8,000 miles, my 1999 'D' runs so sweet.

    See 'Ya

    -C-
  • #99
    >"THE HOST" is obviously devoid of any sense of
    >humor since most of my messages contain a great
    >deal of just that.

    Many readers, myself included, did not realise your posts were supposed to be construed as entertainment, but rather we were led to believe that they were serious accusations on the quality of the Mitsubisihi Diamante line.

    If this is so it would be hard to demarcate in your posts when factual data ends and sophomoric humour begins. In essence this revelation puts your entire posting history in dispute
    ( ...mon ami!)


    -C-
  • L8_ApexL8_Apex Posts: 187
    ...were removed because they contained name-calling, something that doesn't fall under civil-discourse as per the Participants Agreement. Actually... one post and a follow-up.

    Thanks,

    L8_Apex
    Sedans Host
  • Hello,

    Finally after many hours on the 'net and visiting many a car audio store, I have finally ended up with:
    Pioneer CDX-P1250 12 disk CD changer, $179 from http://www.MillionBuy.com.

    I could not easily source an adaptor for this to connect to the stock Mits/Pioneer head unit. The part number was supposed to be MITPIL from Periphials Electronics, but the local car audio shops in California couldn't contact them.

    Another outfit quoted me $70 just for the connector so because of this I opted to buy a new Pioneer head unit KEH-P690 ($141 @Ebay, List Price $250 ). This will make it possible for me to connect my new 12 disk CD changer via Pioneer's "IP bus". I couldn't connect it via the old DIN connector in the stock Mitsubishi.

    The KEH-P690 is the high end head unit with a casette rather than a cd player. I can connect the stock single CD player as an auxilliary so I won't be left with a gaping hole.

    I will use Mr. Vivona's helpful guide in disassembling the old stock radio and see how it goes.

    Mr Vivona as you obviously have already tried it, are all the audio wiring clearly marked and labeled and are the wiring easily accessable with some lenght to play with? is the wiring permanently connected ( which I then would have to cut?) or does it use plug type connectors?

    I will also have to lay the new IP bus cable from the dash and route it to the trunk. Have you tried this, any tips like upliftingthe carpet?

    I will give it a go this weekend!

    Many Thanks,
    -C-
  • vivonavivona Posts: 410
    ccancio--Each audio connector is different and all use connectors. There is enough slack to pull the audio unit out enough to get to the connectors. To get a connector to separate from the radio, use a flat blade screwdriver to pry it (carefully) out. Don't pull on the wires. Only pull on the connector.

    While you are in the dash, you may want to open the A/C control unit and unsolder the beeper that makes a beep each time you make an A/C adjustment. I found the beep a bit annoying for a sleeping passenger. The beeper is a small cylindrical component mounted on the controller PC board. If you are not skilled in PC board unsoldering, then try applying silicone glue into the sound hole on the beeper. That should at least make it a little quieter.

    If you don't want two CD players, you can replace the stock one with a bin. I would get a replacement one for a 92-96 Diamante from the dealer parts department (about $40). It has a nice smooth action door on it. The 97-00 bin doesn't have a door. To get the older bin to fit, you will have to shave about 1/8" off the front edge. I had the original bin in my 99 and changed it out for the older style and I like having the door on it instead of the open bin.

    Mr. Vivona
  • vchengvcheng Posts: 1,286
    Mr. Aldo Vivona:

    Sometime ago you posted about buying a Garmin 3+ GPS unit. May I ask you opinions on it. I am considering a GPS unit, but I can't decide between the Garmin eMap, 3+ and StreetPilot.

    Your thoughts will be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks.
  • vivonavivona Posts: 410
    I went directly to the eMap due to size, price and the fact that it had very good base maps without having to buy the extra Mapsource software and CD.

    You need to decide based on price and intended use. The street pilot has a bigger screen, but it is also not a pocket device and costs a lot more. The III+ is also more costly than the eMap.

    I would recommend you visiting the excellent GPS review site http://joe.mehaffey.com/ You will find a link to "Low Cost GPS Hardware and Moving Map Software Reviews" that will tell you everything you ever wanted to know about mapping GPS receivers. Narrow your choices and visit a store that will let you demo a few models to see what you like the most.

    At the clearance price of $150 I paid for the basic eMap (not the $299 Deluxe model which includes the memory chip and data cable) I found the eMap met all my needs. If price and size was no object, the Color StreetPilot would be nice.
  • Hello all,

    My last post was removed because I questioned Ccancio's mental capabilities in a manner not acceptable to terms of service of these boards. I chided him for not reading my posts carefully. I was not, and am not, bashing the Diamante.

    I was, am, and will continue to look for solutions to the warped rotors that have occurred on my 97 D. Please look over my last posts here: #71, 74, 94,95.

    Despite Vivona's many offers of help, I do not think his approach is the correct one, letting Mitsubishi off the hook. And besides, I don't know Vivona from a hole in the wall, or what his agenda is.

    This I do know: Road & Track, a far more knowledgeable, and KNOWN source is much more credible than an unknown Vivona. Road & Track is accountable for their words. Vivona is not.

    As for Ccancio, his role seems to be to divert attention away from issues anyway that he can. Just study his posts.
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