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Mitsubishi Diamante



  • Hi again,

    The most common way is to wire the subs in BRIDGED form - this multiplies the RMS power to a certain degree. Just to explain: If your subs are maximum 1000W output, and your amp is capable of 1000W, this does not mean you have compatable power ratings. You must refer to the RMS values of both subs and amps,

    e.g. if your sub is maximum 1000w, but has in "input power" of say 750w RMS (ie continuous power at all times), then you should aim to run amp power of an equivalent RMS value (or within 75% of that value). This will drive the subs efficiently.

    Sometimes bridging will achieve higher RMS power and you just 'tweak' the GAIN control downwards until you get it right (NEVER INCREASE GAIN CONTROL UNLESS YOU KNOW WHAT YOU'RE DOING!!!!!!) - notice that was in capitals? Too many people play with the Gain control, thinking it increases volume - if adjusted too high, it will COOK your sub coils (this is what causes smoking).

    So....I only recommend you rewire your system ONLY if you understand what your'e doing.

    I had assumed you already had these subs in a suitable enclosure?

    Where I come from, it is illegal to cut holes in the rear of the vehicle (or parcel tray) for mounting subs - we have to use enclosures. If your subs are mounted into the vehicle, this will cause all sorts of resonance issues.

    So, YES - I recommend a custom enclosure. Enclosures can also be 'fine-tuned' to the vehicle's cavity (pro car audio installers will have access to formulae which can calculate air space inside your boot area, depending on how large you want it). You can then choose if you want a ported or non-ported enclosure. Using an enclosure means the subs aren't physically touching the car's body.

    However, due to the extreme air pressure created by the subsonic frequencies, there will still likely be some rattle/vibration issues, if your panels or joints have gaps which can rub or vibrate together.

    The tar based adhesive sponge is just like a stick-on tape, which you can attach to most surfaces.

    This is entirely up to you...

  • gregsavetgregsavet Posts: 8
    edited July 2011
    Hey Scott whats going on. I understand what all that mans. I am only running the gain half way I tweaked it and this is where it hits the best. The main reason I took it anywhere in the begging was cause I was being lazy and didn't feel like messing with it. LOL However I am thinking that I do need to get a custom enclosure I will then have more room cause the box i have is huge and I barley can get my golf clubs n there.
  • just a note.. u do not have to strip the diamante dash to remove the heater core, have done it twice now
  • Has anyone ever experienced their Diamante missing one mile and the next mile not? I hardly drive mine due to the fact I ride a Goldwing almost everywhere, but when I have to drive in the rain from home, I will drive the D. My D will not miss when I start it and drive it a few miles, then it will start missing, other times, it will miss from the start, then clear up and run fine after a few miles. Any ideas out there?
    1997 Mits Diamante w/120k
  • You guys only have the 97 3.5 V6 autos on here..What about the other models.
    I have a 97 2.5 V6 5 speed tiptronic. you need to add thses to your comsumer posts so i can add my post. And did you know that the 97 Diamante has factory built in GPS..that actually works. I live in New Zealand and it even works :D
  • Gidday Maxoutput,

    WOW ! That's awesome to hear your GPS is working !

    Where in NZ are you? I'm in Wellington and would love to see your GPS working. I presume it's the touchscreen? Does it show the NZ maps too?

    Your transmission is actually the F5A51, which is an amazing piece of technology, but requires many regular fluid changes to prevent premature wear & tear.

    Let me know where you're at - drop me an sms sometime (021 169 4760).


  • call the Mitsubishi dealer and tell them what you need they will give you a number to call and they can give you the access code the $40 dollars everyone is talking about is to get the car radio out to read the number in all honesty its easy to remove take the # off the radio and they give you the code i wasnt paying $40 why should anyone
  • OK, I broke down and installed new plug wires/plugs/dist cap and rotor that took care of all the missing. I never did this before since the wires only had about 25k on them anyway, just took a chance, guess the Autozone lifetime wires I bought were junk to begin with. Now it just leaks oil like a seive, more on that later. Already replaced many "O" rings, just have to replace them all I guess, AAck!
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