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Hyundai Sonata 2005 and earlier



  • bhmr59bhmr59 Posts: 1,598
    My Sonata is the GLS Special Value trim. It has all the features of the LX (now Limited) with the exception of Leather seats and power driver seat. (The alloy wheels are also a different style from either the LX or GLS.)

    The MSRP late in the model year was the same, but there was about a $500 difference in dealer invoice. I've got to believe the Special Value, with all its extra features, has to be worth more as a used car than a standard GLS.

    Heated seats, homelink/auto dimming rear view mirror and auto climate control must surely add something to the used cars' value. Edmunds list of used car values does not differentiate between a GLS and a GLS Special Value. Why?
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    FWIW, this is a common phenomenon, though usually applied with American cars. Buyer has "old" Ford/Hyundai, was great for the first 5 years, then started to need repairs - trades for another entirely different brand, and brand new car, and shaaazzzaaam! The new car is so much better than the old worn out one! Build quality is so far superior in the 07 Honda than the 2000 Hyundai! Think so? Wonder why?

    Yes, Honda is better than Hyundai, especially back in 2000. Not that much better now, but still better. But the 2007 damn-near-anything will be far superior to your 2000 Hyunda is today, after 7 years of use. Had you bought a 2007 Sonata, you would have found the same thing is true. 7 years of use, and time make a lot of difference, no matter what brand you are buying, or switching for.

    Enjoy your Hondas - they'll make you happy for sure.
  • people like that crack me up...7 years down the road he'll be saying goodbye to the Honda forum...I guess he hasn't figured out that anything mechanical can break down or wear out...yes, even "legendary" Honda's and even crapotas. :sick:
  • bhmr59bhmr59 Posts: 1,598
    Yeah, that makes me laugh (sarcastically). That line of thinking means that my '05 will suddenly turn into junk in a little over 4 years.

    So far, not one problem. I've even followed "dealer service" rather than manufacturer's spec as an added assurance. Yeah, I've probably wasted between $100 & $150 since April 2005. I try not to waste money, but if that was wasted, it not much in 32 months, especially if it keeps up the wonderful experience.

    Maybe I should get P'd off whenever the battery quits? Must be Hyundai's fault, right? :confuse:
  • Ya know, here's a simple by any dealer's service department and it will usually be full...and they are not all people getting regular scheduled maintenance. By the way, as stated in early posts of mine, I put 332,000 on my 03 with only routine maint. and what I would call normal wear and tear repairs (steering rack, wheel bearings) until the last day I had the car...tranny failed...but I was going to get a new one anyway. I now have 112,400 on my 07 limited, with no out of pocket repairs other then bulbs so far, even still has original brakes. Got the car on 11/14/06. A few small warranty items...all taken care of with no problem ;) :shades:
  • hdsithdsit Posts: 58
    My Sonata EF (01/02, 162000 km) exhibit a very loud knocking noise when going over small bumps/road imperfections - and specially at low speed at citydriving (if i get to 50-60 km/h) almost nothing is heard.
    Comes from both front and end.
    Seems that at specially comes when down/up movements ex. over a pothole.
    Have had it checked several times, and they could not find something unusual.
    The dealer have suggested to have the shocks replaced. Can that be a solution - what about sway-bars?
    Have suggested Monroe - are they better that OEM?

    Also have a 3,3 NF, and it also had a little noise in the start, but now (52000km) nothing at all...
  • kellewiskellewis Posts: 1
    Last year (2007) I purchased a 2002 sonata.. it had 6k on ( orginal miles)... 3 months after owning it had to replace the O2 sensor, 3 months after that the altanator to the tune of 500.00.. now.. I once again find myself replacing the 02 sensor.. Is there a reason why these go bad? Because the car was still under Manufacture warranty when I purchased it.. I was not concerned.. but now 800.00 later.. and I have only owned the car for 12 months.. is the sensor something that continually goes in these cars.. I cannot afford to 250. every few months for a sensor.. in this car no matter how much Iove.. gee the thing isn't even broke in yet.. it only has 14k on.. so I am asking is this normal for these car? and what will happen if i run it without getting the 02 sensor fixed?
  • hdsithdsit Posts: 58
    Had my timing belt changed and 180000km serviced at the same time.
    - also changed 2 tensioners for the timing belt
    Brakes disassembled and greased,
    ventilatorbelt changed
    cabinfilter - 2 Pcs??? - as far as i know there is only one...
    Engine oil and filter changed.
    Sparks not changed, neither air-filter (uses k&n)
    9 hours in labour - it seems like they have added, hmm... some extra hours, as far as i can see.
    How long time should it take?
    Ordinary 180000 km service - max 2 hours
    Timing belt 7 hours?
    Any comments...
  • sonlxsonlx Posts: 21
    Hello Everyone, I just wanted to get some feedback and see if anyone has had this issue. I currently own a 2003 Sonata lx with beige interior, leather seats. The Car is awesome in every way but i was wondering if anyone has noticed that the vehicle interior gets extremely hot in the summer. I have owned several other different cars but none got as hot inside as this one. Please let me know.
  • tenpin288tenpin288 Posts: 804
    We own a 2004 Sonata LX that is pearl white exterior and black leather interior. It's my wife's daily driver for the last 4 years and she has never complained about it being too hot in the summer. She was a little concerned about that when we bought it, but now says any new car she gets will have a leather interior and be a dark color (her preference). :shades:
  • sonlxsonlx Posts: 21
    Thank you tenpin,
    If anyone else has anymore imput that would be great,
    Especially if you have a 2003 Sonata with beige interior,
    leather seats.
    Thank you
  • mtnman1mtnman1 Westerville, OhioPosts: 382
    I have a 2003 LX Pearl White w/Beige Leather Interior. I haven't noticed that it's any hotter than our 2004 Mountaineer Dark Green w/Beige Leather. I did have a problem with the Driver's Seat Leather cracking on my Sonata and really had to push Hyundai to get them to replace the seat. I think it was close to $2000 to replace. Finally after going all the way up to their Regional Customer Service Manager out of Cincinnati where he drove to Columbus to meet with me they agreed to replace it free of charge. Initially they were telling me that it was considered normal wear and tear and would not be covered by the 5 year 50,000 mile warranty. Took about 2 months of back and forth, but they eventually gave in.
  • bakesaleebakesalee Posts: 7
    I have a 2003 Hyundai Sonata, a working deteriorated looking keyless remote, and a useless brand new one that doesn't work. Does anyone know how to program it? I really can't justify paying $100 or so.
  • bakesaleebakesalee Posts: 7
    I recently noticed a weird sound when starting the car with the A/C on (on setting 1 - low speed A/C). This is not the normal harder working fan sound, it's more of a warbling (for lack of a better description) or a not-so-high pitched fluctuating squeak. And important to note, this only occurs the very first start of the day, or after an extended rest period, at least 7-8 hours. This noise seems to last about 15-20 seconds. I think I've only been able to recreate the sound one time when not in this first time, or several hour rule I described.

    It worries me because although it doesn't sound major, I take better care of this car than any car I've ever owned. It's my little fake Jaguar, and I've had all scheduled maintenance done (except the spark plugs which the dealer said wasn't included in their 60K service). I'm planning to have the sparks done soon by a neighbor who said they'd show me how to do it - the dealer quoted me $150.

    This car has about 70K on it. I bought it used at 49K miles for $8700. For some reason (which dealers say, "Only an accident could have cause this) the front fender liners were blown off. Left side gone, right side hanging on for dear life. I'm going to have a non-dealer mechanic install these within a week or two.

    I also want to put on a new front bumper cover. It has scrapes and I just want it to look new. Since they come "blank," where would you take it to have painted to match properly? Mine is pearl white and it looks amazing. Wouldn't want a job less than 100%.

    What else do I need to look at on this car? It's regularly oil changed, had transmission flushed by dealer, had timing belt replaced.

    My brakes squeak so I'm having new pads put on. Is there any chance my rotors will be rusty or anything like this? It's been in Arizona or CA it's whole life except the last 3 months in rainy Connecticut. My brakes have been squeaking forever. Everyone that sees them says "fine, just dirty," yet they're "cleaning" never seems to remedy the problem. Does it sound like a need new rotors or anything? I'm sick of the squeaking. I just want a solid car.
  • fireicefireice Posts: 1
    How do you program the remote entry for the 2003 Sonata. I already have the receiver off. I just need the programing instruction.
    Thank you
  • Hi,

    Recently I bought a 2002 Sonata used car with 56K miles... How do you identify whether it is base with V6 or GLS?? Dealer sold me the car as GLS but I doubt it.

    The reason is that it has got 15th inch tire, no cassette player, no wood trim, no alloy wheels, no ABS
  • bhmr59bhmr59 Posts: 1,598
    06s came out just after I bought my '05 in April of '05.

    Low miles, just below 31K.

    So far, NO problems, just routine maintenance. (Oh yeah, I dirve with the headlight on all the time and each one burned out after 3.25 years, but that was covered by the warranty!)

    Car is still very quite, although a rougher road surface creates minor tire road noise. No squeaks or rattles.

    This 6 cyl has less HP than the '11 4 cyl, but it still has plenty juice for pulling into traffic or highway merging. My typical drive is under 4 milels and I still get between 18 and 19.5 mpg on 90% local driving (depending on winter vs warmer weather).

    From a reliability and maintenance standpoint, it is the best car I've ever owned. (But the '71 Volvo 1800E I bought new was certainly the most fun.)
  • jamesw1971jamesw1971 Posts: 2
    I bought a new 2003 Sonota in the Spring of 2004 when I was stationed in Arizona. My stepson crashed it into a wall that same summer.

    I was told the car was $50 short of being totaled (needed to be over $10,000) and the insurance refused to replace it, instead opting to have it repaired. The car has had over $13,000 in repairs including the original repair work since then.

    The car was in the dealers bodyshop for 3 months being repaired, the entire front end of the car was smashed in, clear back to the windshield.

    6 months after receiving the car back we were traveling from San Diego to Phoenix when the structure around the windshield came apart on the interstate. We took it to the dealership to have it repaired, which the insurance covered under the original claim.

    1 year later the car refused to start, it had an aftermarket anti-theft system on it which the dealership had installed and used on their lot and included as part of the deal when I bought the car. I was told the fix for the ignition system was to disable the antitheft system, since it disabled the ignition if someone tried to steal the car. The insurance paid this claim.

    1 year after that the car again refused to start, but since I was in the military I had been transferred to Texas and a different dealership had to look at it. I was told there was a faulty brake sensor which for some reason caused the ignition system to fault out? Cost me $200 to have it replaced since the insurance stated the brake sensor was not covered under the original claim (though the ignition problem was, go figure)

    Every single year since then it has been the same story, the car runs fine, then all the sudden it wont start. If you wait a couple hours it starts up fine, the ignition system is just locked out for some reason. Every time there is a different code for a different sensor. The insurance company keeps saying its not part of the original claim and I'm wondering if its a design flaw or an insurance fraud claim I can make against the insurance company and the dealership?

    My car is currently in the shop again because it wouldn't start. The current code is P0335 for a crankshaft position sensor A circuit. The dealership wants to replace it and charge me $500. The insurance company hasn't said if they will pay it or not since this is an ongoing thing that started on a car I bought new and was crashed months after I bought it and then started having all these problems.

    The radio on the car is also on the fritz. Ever since the crash the radio will be off, I will hit a bump and the radio will turn on on its own. Or I will be listening to the radio with no CD in the CD player and the radio will just swap from radio to CD on its own. I hit eject and it goes to the radio for a few seconds and then back to the CD. I found a post with other people having the same problems so this sounds more like a design problem than something associated with the ignition system??

    I told the dealership (this time one in Illinois since I was stationed there) that there has been a long history of this ignition problem but they said they can only troubleshoot what they see which is the sensor problem. They said they don't have access to other dealers maintenance records in other states which is in my mind very stupid of Hyundai to do especially for people like me in the military since we move from state to state every couple years.

    The technician representative at the dealership told me I needed to be more respectful to him when I talked to him because he said he felt like I was saying it was his fault that the car wasn't being fixed right. I tried to explain that respect is earned and Hyundai and the Statefarm insurance companies actions have not been deserving of any respect on my part. He hung up on me because he didn't want to hear my complaints. What ever happened to customer service representatives handling a customers complaints with a smile? Its not like I yelled at the kid or cussed at him. Even though in my mind I deserve a good venting at the incompetent mechanics and insurance adjusters working on my case.

    I'm ready to sue. 5 years to fix an ignition problem is far too long
  • targettuningtargettuning Posts: 1,371
    I won't attempt to diagnose your problems (aside from a few basic comments) but it appears that since the problems started after a near total of the car something done during extensive repairs is the cause. The car should have been totaled, but that is another story. Is any of this weather related? that is, does damp-wet weather seem to be related to your non-start condition? If, as you say, each time this non-start condition surfaces a different code is logged then maybe the engine management computer is somehow involved?. You want to sue? who and why since Hyundai clearly is trying to fix it but cannot pin down a single cause and I'm guessing you do not want to throw more $$ (parts/labor) at it in the hope a fix will be found by accident. In my opinion this is going to be a gremlin you will chase until A. the car wears out B. you get tired of fooling around and sell or trade or junk it. C. some repair facility gets lucky and stumbles on some part change/electrical connector reseat/ pinched or partially cut wire within a harness or some other thing you will be able to trace back to that original repair. Electrical problems are a horror and yours is compounded by the almost total rebuild of the front of the car. The fact the radio has a mind of its own as well just reinforces my thoughts of a harness/electrical connector. Good luck!!
  • geobluegeoblue Posts: 71
    :confuse: Hello,

    Today on the freeway my wife's 2006 (early model) Kia Optima (same as pre-2005 Sonata) had a vibration, fluctuating RPM and then it stalled.When it stalled we saw al lights on the instrument panel light up. No check engine light stayed after staring it again.We drove for a few minutes and it died again.

    I opened the hood on the safety lane and checked the battery poles and belts.I could not see anything out of the ordinary. But my wife said a day before a bird flew in front of the car's grille and she found the bird's skeleton at the driveway that evening.

    We drove the car home without problem. 15 minutes or so. No check engine light.

    What could be the problem?

    :confuse: I am using Mobil 1 Extended Performance oil for almost 8,000 miles now. With synthetic oil my usual oil change interval is 7-8,000 miles usually.
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