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Dodge Stratus

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  • alleusalleus Posts: 3
    Also the engine will cough and sputter from time to time. It will idle rough from time to time too. It is also taking more rpms to make the gears shift under normal driving conditions. Some times it raps up to 3000 rpms before shifting at normal acceleration. It is disturbing.
  • bremerdcbremerdc Posts: 6
    edited July 2011
    I just bought this car. I've noticed that it seems to "jerk" on occasion when I am sitting at a stoplight. I've only changed the oil so far on the vehicle, I haven't done any other repairs at all. Any ideas what this might be? Besides this random, occasional jerking, the car seems to run like a dream. Also, it only happens when idle. Thanks in advance.
  • alleusalleus Posts: 3
    I finally took my car to the dealership and had them put it on the diagnostic machine and they wanted $2300 to fix it. My friend took a look at it and fixed the whole thing with a spark plug. I have had problems with my car off and on since we got it and it was always fixed with spark plugs and new wires. Make sure that you have the plugs checked/changed. It may help. It sure helped mine. Good luck!
  • Have you figured out what this is? My stratus does the exact same thing. I have had the spark plugs done and one of my cv axles needed to be replaced. Neither of these fixed stopped the random jerking. My car runs very smooth and the mechanic said the transmission was excellent. Please let me know if you have found your issue so that I can have my car checked for it as well.
  • I haven't figured out what caused it. However, I replaced my spark plugs and also used fuel injector cleaner (less than $3 at your auto parts store) when I filled up my gas tank. I did this twice. After using the fuel injector cleaner and changing the plugs, it hasn't done the "jerking" again. It still idles a bit rough at times, but nothing major. Good luck!

    On the downside, one of my spark plugs was covered in oil. Sounds like I may have an engine overhaul in my distant future. Can't wait.
  • Oh no! Just wanted to share. I found my issue!!! I already had the plugs done and ran some fuel injector cleaner through the gas tank. I got the cv axles checks and the mechanic noticed that my rear engine mount was gone, hence the jerking! 200 dollar fix. Hope your engines issues aren't too bad.
  • I unknowingly ran my car out of oil this week. The oil light had come on twice before, but only for a second when going around a tight curve or sitting at a steep angle. As it only flashed for a split second i thought i still had a little time to grab oil (which is what i was going to do when the engine light started flashing), but apparently not.

    When i was a few blocks away from home the engine light started flashing and my car began chugging and making some noise.

    When i got home i borrowed a roommates car and purchased oil. Unfortunately when i was filling it the bottle slipped and i poured the entire gallon in, so it is now overfilled.

    I have driven it a few times this week since then (it's finals week at school and i had no other choice but to go or fail) but it still chugs while idling or stopped at a light etc. But while driving above 15-20 mph it runs fine, just as it did before. I took it on the freeway today and it did 60 just fine. The exhaust wreaks of oil and is quite noticeable.

    The car is a 2005 dodge stratus sedan (special model, can't remember the letters) with around 130,000 miles on it. I bought the car with around 20,000 miles on it and have taken decent care of it until now with no problems.

    The only issue it's ever had is the check engine light has been on since it was purchased. So now when i start the car the engine light is on and after a few seconds, or when i begin to drive it flashes. I don't think this is pertinent to the problem but figured id mention it.

    The other thing i have noticed is it consumed gas much more quickly than before.

    I have read a lot of posts on various sites (including this thread) about similar issues but i couldn't find consistent information, especially dealing with running it out and overfilling. I am taking it as a good sign that it still works, but want to know if it's just a matter of time before my engine kicks it? or if the current problems are due to overfilling?

    I will hopefully be draining the oil and refilling it properly tomorrow, but am looking for more information. Please, any insight you might have would be very helpful.
  • Sounds like you will need a transmission rebuild. I had to have mine done as well. I was having the same issues with the jerking. Its your transmission slipping. Have it checked.
  • I just got a 97 Dodge Stratus couple months ago and it's been giving me problems every sense it's missing really bad but when it rain it is worse. I put cap and rotor on it but did not help it is leaking oil around the gasket not sure if it need spark plugs or not. Can anyone PLEASE help me.
  • jglavin94jglavin94 Posts: 1
    edited April 2012
    I wired my stereo in my 00 stratus and everything seems to be wired correctly and connected properly, but when I turn on my windshield wipers or use my blinkers it sounds like the radio is shorting out. It only does this when the car is fully running, not when the car is on accessory, is this a wiring problem, or a fuse problem? Thanks.
  • bernsaxbernsax Posts: 2
    2004 Dodge Stratus, 2.7 engine, 120,000 miles. This vehicle has recently started dying occasionally at stoplights. However, it always starts back up immediately. Some days it runs just fine. Other days it may quit 4 or 5 times. No codes. The spark plugs were changed at 100,000 miles. It was dying before the plugs were changed and then the problem ceased until just lately. I have put injector cleaner in the gas tank the past 3 times when filling up. Without a code, I don't know what else to do.

    Also, how far should the temperature gauge rise? Recently, a local mechanic changed the thermostat. However, now the temp gauge only rises to the first mark and stays there. Never goes any higher and then drop back down when the thermostat opens. Is this normal? I thought there might be air in the system or the thermostat was faulty. He put another thermostat in it last week and with the same result. It's a 185 degree thermostat but a computer says the coolant is 180 degrees when fully warmed up.

    Any help would be appreciated.

    I'm not sure if a false temp. reading could cause the dying problem.
  • plaraplara Posts: 1
    edited July 2012
    Can someone please help this single mother that REALLY needs this car to work!!! Well my car is a 2005 Dodge Stratus SXT 2.4 liter 4 cyl 2 wheel drive. This car started messing up when the engine light turned on, the car starts fine but when you shift it will only go up to 30 mph and the RPM would be like in the 3 and the car feels like it's super heavy. Car will drive only on the first gear up to 30 and the second shift wouldn't kick in. The two mechanics that I took it to apparently claim to have changed a sensor and one even asked me to buy the computer which I did already so car has new computer. I did tell them both that I smelled burnt wire before it started messing up. yet they don't seem to find out what is actually wrong. Can someone please explain... Super URGENT!! :cry:
  • bremerdcbremerdc Posts: 6
    It sounds to me like your transmission has failed. I have a 2003 Dodge Stratus SXT and I had to replace the transmission at 180,000 miles. Apparently these cars are notorious for their transmission issues. If you have a "Certified Transmissions" in your area, take it to them. They'll check it out for free. If you need a new one, it will be about $2,300, but you'll get a 50,000 mile warranty.
  • cbrad01cbrad01 Posts: 1
    My 2004 Stratus was doing the same thing. I would slow down or turn and the brake light in the dash would come on. It would stall and just quit running, sometimes I would not even be able to start it, come back a few minutes later and it would start up and run for a week with no issues. I also noticed the fans were not coming on when they should with the air conditioning and thermostat, this was causing the car to run hot and I would have to watch it closely... The problem was the positive battery cables going from the battery to the relay box and battery to the starter were bad. You can test this by reading the voltage from the jump start posts with a volt meter, you will see the voltage fluctuate from 7 - 14 volts. This is causing the relays to bounce and the pcm to malfunction... Problem was fixed with $20 dollars worth of cables and a side post terminal that holds two cables, it's not an easy fix if you do it yourself, but you will save a few hundred dollars by spending the time... Hope this helps, everyone always lists the problems, but they never update the solutions! Also, when the problem happens, pop the hood and touch the positive jump start post or the cable attached to it, if it's hot to the touch, this is the problem, should never be HOT!
  • Your trans. has not fail. I had the exact same problem. U need to change the ECM. Its a computer that sits right in front of the positive post cable ..its grey on the back and have 4 square plugs running out the front of it...If u CHANGE that..your trans will work like NEW again.... :blush:
  • We had the same issue with squeaking I believe. I did some self diagnosis and determined that it was a ball joint ruuber boot had a rip in it and the ball joint was drying out. We also had it diminish when it rained but came right back. I just shot some WD-40 into the boot and the join and I know that is a temporary fix, but hasn't squeaked since then.
    I realize this is a long overdue answer, but if anyone out there still has this issue, hope this post helps!
  • doubledogdoubledog Posts: 2
    I just got this car. Sometimes, it makes a big clunking sound when going into reverse and then when I put it into drive, the speedo stays at 0 and it feels like it's really struggling to go. We pulled out the battery and charged it. Now the battery light flashes for just a second. Before we did this, only the tach registered and all other gauges did not work. Help! When it does NOT clunk, it runs really well.
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