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Acura RL



  • mrrogersmrrogers Posts: 391
    I own two GM cars as I save up for my 3.5 RL. Both of them have had issues with starting on cold, damp days especially after having set outside overnight. In each case, I replaced the plug wires, and the starting and cold running were much improved. Hope this helps.
  • poonsspoonss Posts: 7
    This morning was about 15 degree and the wind chill factor is below zero, I parked my 2000RL outside overnight.
    It started on the first crank, and I drove it off after a few seconds. My other car have a cold start problem this winter (6 years old battery) and I changed the battery and the problem went away. I would change the battery if it is over three year old and it may solve your problem. YMMV
  • jwilson1jwilson1 Posts: 956
    below zero here. And I have trouble starting, too! Just can't seem to get excited about going out in this. These cars are very intelligent....

    I've had this happen a couple of times, not always. Just a guess: it may be the computer resetting itself and fuel/ignition systems resetting themselves for what those in the shadow of Mt. Fuji think of as "extreme" conditions. When you get in the car in the morning, try saying: "Mush, you huskies."

    The cold is making me slap happy. I'm thinking of starting a herd of reindeer or caribou just so I can be relevant.

  • tjonestjones Posts: 9
    Does anyone know where I can find a service manual for a 2000 RL?

    Also, what does everyone use to clean and maintain the wood surfaces on the interior?

    Finally, has anyone found a good place to mount a radar detector in the RL? The only place that I can find is to use suction cups to mount it to the windshield.
  • mike734mike734 Posts: 128
    You can only buy new manuals at: sid=R02X67EMC0V79NVGWUM9NBSBB9EC30E6

    Pledge works well for the wood.

    A radar detector should be mounted on the windshield. I put mine in the middle just below the RVM.
  • tjonestjones Posts: 9
    Thank you for the response. When I follow the link to HelmInc and enter 2000 RL service manual, it says no items found. Am I doing something wrong? Thanks.
  • tjonestjones Posts: 9
    I have a 2000 RL NAVI. I am wondering if I have the most up to date DVD version. Has there been an updated DVD version since 2000? If so, is it worth getting the newer version (i.e. are there more areas covered, more detail in certain areas, more restaurants, etc.)? What is the price of the update?
  • hunter001hunter001 Posts: 851
    There were at least 2 updates since the 2000 NAV DVD. I believe the version the 2000 NAV had was 1.09 or so. I still have my 2000 DVD in my 3.2TL and find that the coverage in and around my area and for the journey's I make, is perfectly fine. I believe Alpine is coming up with a huge update in the spring or so, that would give street level coverage for every city in the US. I might wait around for that, before upgrading.

  • I just put some new Dunlop SP Sport A2 on my '98 RL. I choose 225 instead of 215 while staying with 60 height (225/60-16). My Acura dealer said there would be no problem with this slightly wider tire. I love these tires. They handle and perform much better than the OEM tires. A good amount of body roll has also been removed from the car.

    Even though the OEM tires are V-rated and these are H-rated, I don't see any downside to this. I have not noticed any negatives from this. I also don't drive ridiculous speeds and drive mostly intown and short interstate rides to work and back. NTB claimed that an H-rated tire will give up 10 feet of braking distance compared to a V-rated tire. Is this true? Of course he said this would only apply in a very hard braking situation.

    The car just feels like its on the road more. The steering is for sure better. I haven't driven them in the rain yet, but I'm sure they'll perform better there too. My area does not get much snow/ice, so I'm not too concerned about the snow performance.

    As a curios side not, is anyone using the Michelin Pilot XGT V4/Z4 tire? If so, what do you think as compared to the OEM Michelin tires?

  • hunter001hunter001 Posts: 851
    Pilot XGT-V4/Z4 would be noisier than the stock tires and also the Dunlop SP Sport A/2.

    Your 225/60R16 tires are both taller and wider than the 215/60R16. The "60" is the aspect ratio which determines the height of the sidewall. It means 60 percent of 215 or 225 as the case may be.

    SP Sport A/2 is okay, as long as your speeds don't exceed 130mph, due to its "H" rating.

  • I picked up the Puralator cabin filters today. There are two filters in the carton....both for $21.99. Installation instructions were included specific to the RL. They were very similar to yours, but yours were more detailed.

    I'm curious to see how dirty the original filters are with 30,000 miles on them. Except for the heating season, I keep it in the recirculate mode, which should keep most of the nasties from entering the interior. No one smokes in the car.
  • mike734mike734 Posts: 128
    I don't get it. It seems the 2000 is not available. I can find info on the 98,99 but not the 2000. In fact, there are only two manuals available for the 2000. Maybe they only become available after the warranty has run out. I don't know but the people at Helms will surely know.
  • tjonestjones Posts: 9
    for the help with my questions. It is nice to finally find somewhere that people discuss the RL.
  • marsha7marsha7 Posts: 3,661
    if your proposed changes are really what the new RL would be, and add AWD, then my "need" for a Jaguar XJ8L or a MB E430 4motion would evaporate, as the Acura would be the car for the next 10 years, in addition, of course, to my "gas guzzling, environment-killing, risk transferring, pollution belching, baby-killing SUV and pickup truck," when I finally obtain them...:):):)

  • retnavretnav Posts: 25
    Because of what appears to be an ever decreasing used car valuation I am investigating moving to a Mercedes Benz E-320. Do we have any former MB owners who have moved to RL who will give a comparison evaluation? When I asked this question on the MB board I got few replies, but one said the main difference is the German vs the Japanese ride. I test drove one new E-320 and there is a difference, the 320 seemed heavier though the specs indicate the RL to be heavier. How about rear wheel drive. Any advantages? Appreciate your comments.
  • Retnav,

    You're really talking about 2 entirely different cars and the way they are designed. I have a 2000 Acura RL and a 1998 MB E320. You are absolutely right about resale value. There is no way that the MB will depreciate as quickly as the Acura. You're going to pay about 15-20K more for the MB though (for the E320 not the E500). The Acura is more of a cruising car. It is heavier, has a longer wheelbase, and both steering and suspension are toned down to reflect this type of ride.
    The E-series, even in the 320, is a sport sedan. It is far quicker, more responsive, tighter in ride, and fast. The E feels more solid even though it is the lighter of the 2 cars. It rides like it is on rails. It is by far the best car I have ever owned. I don't know what they do at MB, but I hope they keep doing it.
    The RL is a great car. You just have to realize the difference in design, and the ultimate end result of the product that Honda makes. I have owned several Honda products. They last, they are reliable, and they are generally affordable. I think the RL is a bit overpriced, even though it is wonderfully appointed. Mid to low 30's would be where I would put it to be more competitive in the luxury sedan market. Resale is not great. Buy this car and keep it. Don't sell it in a couple of years. The RL has lost many sales to MB, BMW, Infiniti, etc. because Honda really doesn't know what it wants this car to be. It's their flagship, yet it doesn't have their best engine (V-Tech). It's heavy, and it doesn't have a V-8. It could be better insulated to road noise. I have had some rattles and I also have a cold start problem that seems to be getting better with new plugs. It is a very, very comfortable car that I spend lots of time in.
    Would I buy another?? Probably not. I will probably spend the extra money to get a little more on resale, and to have a better engineered car. Mercedes will be more expensive to service, but so far all I've done are scheduled items. If you can afford to I would get the E. Especially the new 2003 redesigned E. I haven't driven it, but I hear it is amazing. Good luck with your purchase.
  • Hi. I have a 96 RL with about 130M miles on it. I bought it in Dec of 2000 with about 63M miles on it. Because I've driven it so much, I'm ridiculously upside-down on the car loan.

    Does anyone else have an RL with a lot of miles? The guy at the dealer swears he has RLs coming in with over 300M miles on them, but he usually says this whenever he's trying to sell me a $1000 maintenance job. I believe his exact words were "Treat 'em right and they'll last you forever."

    With all the cash rebates and cheap financing around nowadays, I'm debating between taking the trade-in hit right now and just holding onto the car until the end of the loan. I have 3 years left on the loan (12/2005 is the final payment).


  • vchengvcheng Posts: 1,286
    M = mega = million. so you have an RL with 130 million miles! I think not.

    K = kilo= thousand. Yep, 130,000 miles is more like it.

    Nothing will last forever, but you can hope to run it fairly economically for several hundred thousand miles more, but you will have to spend for maintenance, and keep up with the routine stuff meticulously.
  • Thanks.

    I hear what you're saying about the M and K. For whatever reason, M is used for thousand at my company. MM is for million, and I think BB is for billion. Weird ...

  • Viper,

    You're considering getting a new $35K vehicle because you're "upside down" in your current vehicle? Dealers love to make people think they're better off trading in an upside down car so that they can put you further in debt. The amount you owe on your current vehicle isn't going to change and the market value of this car isn't going to miraculously go up when you trade or sell it. My guess is you'll pay at least $2K in taxes and fees that get you nothing with the new wheels and the minute you drive off the show room floor, your depreciation will be $3K to $4K at least - and I haven't even mentioned the higher insurance premiums and interest costs. Throw the $5K to $6K you would have wasted in fees and depreciation on a new RL at your current debt (even if you have to pay it a month at a time along with your regular payment) and drive that thing til the wheels come off! It should easily take you another 100K.

    (BTW by K I mean 1,000 - Had to get that one in)
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