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Acura RL

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Comments

  • We visited an Acura dealer in Phoenix to look at a MDX. We ended up test-drive a RL 2000 and TL 2001 model as well. It looks like we could make a deal out of the RL for about 36K, but the dealer said we probably have to pay near MSRP on the TL, which is still around 28K or so.

    I actually like the TL's sporty performance and price. My wife, on the other hand, likes the RL's bigger cabin. In my opinion, the TL cabin is more than sufficient and has a zippier 225-hp engine.

    Since we are Acura novices, could you folks help convince me why I should pay another 8K (or 12K for a 2001) more for a RL? (besides my wife says so.. :-)
  • marsha7marsha7 Posts: 3,661
    this does not answer your question, but I do find it amazing that Acura would first put a higher HP engine (225 HP) in the smaller TL, while the bigger, heavier (and more luxurious) RL languishes with a 210 HP engine. Logic (my logic, that is) says to first raise the HP on your flagship, say to 275-300, and then raise the HP in the smaller vehicles. Just my 2 cents.
  • The old big horspeower dilemma. I would recommend that you return to the dealership and test drive the RL and TL again. Focus on "peppiness" but eliminate distractions. The TL's transmission is not as smooth as the RL: jerkiness gives an impression of power. The TL is not as well insulated as the RL: a louder engine seems more powerful.

    i would guess that the TL and RL get to 60 in the same time. Edmunds has the 2000 RL at 60 in 7.5 seconds. The pre-1999 RL was 9.0 seconds. The TL just seems quicker because it is rougher. The RL delivers more torque at lower RPMs than the TL which is more useful for acceleration. The RL has many sound dampening devices which make you feel as if the car is not working. however, it really does work.

    Finally, if you want a sport shift, try shifting the RL as a manual. The owner's manual says that you can and I have done it many times since my recent purchase. You will get to 60 even faster.

    Thus, if you want the same level of acceleration and performance in a refined package, buy the RL. Otherwise, save the money and buy a TL.

    Also, I believe the RL has at least two more coats of paint on it than the TL.
  • We ahve owned the RL for about a week and half today. The experience has been very rewarding. My wife is falling in love with the car (she drives a Lecus RX300). I was able to transport 3 people and myself to Concord, NH in comfort, something impossible in my Legend coupe.

    The car is quicker than many realize. Since it is so quiet, you do not get the sense that the engine moves you. In general, it is decently quick and if you stomp on the accelerator, you push the RPMs to 4000 in every gear.

    i have been trying to shift like a manual. My perception is that the car becomes a tad quicker as you push through the gears at top torque for a longer period. You have to be careful since you get engine noise, but it is not as noisy as you would expect. The result is the potential to redline the engine. The performance is very good for a sedan, but I will not give up the coupe.

    My wife used the car one night and got lost. The Nav system brought her straight to the highway. She claims it is worth every penny.

    Overall, I am very pleased that me, honda guy, stuck with the flagship car. My fifth Honda is making me smile when I look at it and when I drive it. One person who rode with me to NH scolded me for driving the car like the Legend when it is a luxury sedan. It is a tribute to the changes which Acura made to the performance that I can drive the car Like the Legend.


    Lastly, on the RL vs TL decision, My previous post reflects where I came out in the decision to buy an RL. My wife and I like the Mercedes styling of the RL. The front end of the TL is not as impressive since it is a copy of the Nissan nose. I'd rather copy Mercedes. Also, chekc Edmunds ratings on the 2000 TL. 0 to 60 in 7.7 seconds. The RL proves that greater torque at lower RPMS is more important than higher total horsepower at higher RPMs.
  • Picked up a 2000 3.5 RL for $32,700. I wanted the silver one and had to paid $32,700, or otherwise, the dealership was selling gold ones for $30,500!! WOW!!. non-navis of course... price included floor mats, wheel locks, extra 6-cd case, mud guards, ski bag, first two oil changes, 2 full tanks of gas (1 when you come for oil change).
  • Ref msg #603 & #604 Seeking information on radio
    reception problem in 00 RL. Getting HISSSSSing on
    fm reception...How to fix/solve when antenna is in
    windsheild??
  • jwilson1jwilson1 Posts: 956
    Like some of you, I was sure the rl was 'much' larger inside than the tl. But after I compared the numbers (headroom, legroom, etc.) and noticed how very similar they are, I went back to the dealer and asked one of the salesmen who always seems to me to actually know what he's talking about.

    He said the difference is primarily an illusion. The rl windshield is more vertical, taking the A pillar further out in front of you and making it seem more spacious, the same with many of the other dimensions. The tl, otoh, is more 'sleek' (slanted), you sit lower, etc and it seems more compact as a result.

    Another visual oddity that makes sense if you think of it is that the same car will seem larger if you change the interior from a darker color (black) to lighter (parchment).

    Interesting.

    Take care.
    Joe W>
  • What dealership is selling the 00 RL for this price?
  • I bought mine @ Stevens Creek Acura in N. California. They have 1 black with parchment and a couple of gold ones left. I think they have 1 firepepper red and one green one available also. The $30,500 figure I threw out turned out to be a misprint in the Friday San Jose Mercury Ad. Nevertheless, I got my Silver one for $32.7K including mats, mudguards, wheel locks, full tank of gas, free oil change
  • krv03krv03 Posts: 3
    I realize you folks in this conference know all the details of the RL -- The post was formatted in this way so that it could be posted to several other conferences.
  • soberssobers Posts: 496
    TL is tested at 6.7 to 7.2 !! RL is 8.0. Ofcourse person wanting an RL won't mind 1 second less for 0-60.
  • rumorrumor Posts: 13
    WOW, you did your homework! I think many of us
    fellow Acura owners feel the same as you do. And
    I am willing to bet all of us fellow Acura owners
    will tell you that the RL is worth every penny
    and will remain trouble free.
    With the prices being quoted on the thread anyone considering a FWD sedan, or a sedan would
    be crazy not to take a serious look at this car!
    Oh yeah, those HIDS are awesome aren't they. Wait til you get behind the wheel of another car
    without them! It will drive you "nuts"
  • Several postings ago I saw someone mentioned that he did not like the "swing/throw" motion when his 3.5RL '00 was connering or curving. I too have the same experience! Before I switched to this new 3.5RL '00 I was driving the '90 Legend and it is a lot more stable while curving/cornering. Is this because the suspension on RL is a lot softer than Legend? Is the suspension on RL adjustable? Will changing tires/shocks fix this problem? How do you RL owners feel about this safety problem?
    Thanks!
  • jwilson1jwilson1 Posts: 956
    I've been trying to see the red RL but none have been available at the local dealer. Is it exactly the same as the firepepper red used on the TL. Or?

    Take care.
    Joe W.
  • I have to confess I've been a car enthusiast for a long time (currently have a 3 ser. BMW). We recently got an Acura MDX and am so impressed that I'm thinking RL. Would someone comment on whether 2000 RLs w/Nav would still be available and what price should be paid? Should I wait instead for 2001 (any changes you know about)? I live in the SF Bay Area.
  • Can anyone help me out?

    I am looking at either buying or leasing a
    new 2000 Acura 3.5 RL with Navi and I have several questions.

    First, given that it is a 2000 model, is there
    greater merit from a financial stand-point to a
    lease vs buy? Second, I can buy the car with zero
    down at an APR of between 7.5 to 7.75% over 5
    years. If I decide to lease the car instead, should
    I be looking at money factor that equates to the
    APR that I would pay if I were buying the car? In
    other words as a smart shopper should the money
    factor on the lease equate to say 7.75 divided by
    24? If not, what would be the likely money factor
    that I should pay on such a lease?

    I am aware of the pros and cons of leasing vs
    buying.

    I have excellent credit and the cost of the car
    that I have negotiated is about $35000.
  • bpatron, thanks for the tip. I'll talk to my dealer about it ... :)
  • What is best for you really depends on a lot of factors. There are worksheets at the Motley Fool site to help you with this.

    The Money Factor is the Interest Rate / 2400. If you have good credit, it should be around 0.003 (7.2%)or so. If the maker subsidizes the lease, it can go to .002 or even lower. Be careful about this, a high money factor is a way for the dealer to stick it to you even after you settle on a good price for the car.

    DO NOT pay the "Acquisition" or "Disposition" fees. These are totally arbitrary fees that are cooked up by the dealers and banks to gouge you. I have leased several times, and these fees dissappear quickly as you head for the door. My Lexus dealer even OFFERED to drop them as an inducement to buy. The same for "Doc Fees" and even "Messenger Fees". The dealers make profit on the sales to cover these expenses, yes?

    Be very careful of what is included in the "NET CAP COST" - the final price you agree to pay. This is what is financed, and you pay interest on ALL of this. This should be ONLY the car, and NO fees or other charges of any kind rolled in, or you will pay triple for them at the end of the lease. I prefer to lease with $0 down, $0 out of pocket out the door except for the DMV fees. It is better to pay a higher car payment at 8%, and use the "down payment" (CAP reduction) money to pay off 18% credit cards, yes?

    One more item - I keep my cars immaculate, and sell them privately a few months before the end of the lease. Because of their prime condition, I usually MAKE money at the end, enough for the down payment or some custom wheels on the next one - as much as $2500. Take great care of your car and use Zaino to protect the inside and out and you can do this too.

    Good Luck!
  • Acura is presently providing a $3,000 cash incentive for RLs. In the Northeast, dealers have plenty of stock. My target price was $36,200 for an RL w/NAV. I got one for $36,700 with mats, wheel lockx, mud guards and delivery included. This was two to three weeks ago.

    Good luck. The RL will have more room and very subtle handling characteristics.
  • Good research! Do you agree with post #117 and #118?
    Would appreciate your comments since I'm also looking at a new 2000 RL to purchase
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