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Pontiac Bonneville

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  • coblurcoblur Posts: 4
    Hey Guys, I just found an awesome 97 SSEI. 76,000 miles, nicely loaded , leather. I got the car after it sat abandoned for 5 years. A battery, tires and condenser and it's a sweet ride!
    The problems I have are minor, I can't figure out how to switch the heads up to MPH instead on KPH. When I open the sun roof, I have to give it a shove or it makes a "rat a tat noise" and stays shut, the shove gets it moving and it opens and closes fine. I also can't get the lights to go off any sooner than 3 minutes. I have turned the "twilight sentinel" to min, but it makes no difference.
    I'm also trying find ways to get the correct fobs for the factory car starter and doors, all I got with the car was a single ignition key. I've seen the programmable fobs on e-bay for the door. Any help would be GREAT!
  • Hi - you probably had this fixed long ago and have an answer but just in case; there are two main reasons why the emergency brake light comes on and does not go out. If the brake is not released all the way naturally is one issue. If the pedal is all the way out then there is potentially an issue with the emergency brake indicator switch. However, this switch identifies when the emergency brake pedal is depressed - if this switch is broken, it will not show the emergency brake is on so a defective switch most likely is not the answer. The other reason is from a leak in the master cylinder which may not be as noticeable. If the system detects a leak, the emergency brake light will stay on and chime. Sorry I could not respond earlier as I just now joined this site. Hope all is running well now.
  • We have one of each, a 2002 Bonneville SSEI and a 2003 Buick LeSabre LTD
    and like the Bonneville best. It gets 30 highway mpg instead of the 27 I get in the LeSabre. BUT the chrome wheels on the Bonnevilles sometimes are a problem. Our old Bonn. (98) had some leaky wheels even though we had the rims redone and rebalanced... the alum and chrome sometimes get eaten up by salt, etc. and you get tires that have a slow leak.
    The engines on both these cars are the same, I'm not sure why the superchgd
    Bonne gets better mileage. The LeS. does have more gauging, I can see instantly
    what my mileage is under various conditions. But as for comfort, the Bonneville is unsurpassed, roomy cushy seats. Make sure you get a sunroof, though, because it adds so much light to the interior, makes the car a joy winter and summer.
    I have 85000 miles on the LeSabre, we just bought the 02 Bonne with 94000 miles on it but mint condition knock on wood (a kid car purchase for us) and our old Bonne was totalled, still ran beautifully winter and summer with 167000 miles on it. We would have fixed it but all the airbags went off, so not possible or feasible. I almost cried. I loved that car better than some dogs I have had.
  • arehmarehm Posts: 3
    I have a 2001 SSEi after changing the oil the dash still tells me it needs a change. I push the reset button but it still says needs change after restarting the car. Any one know how to reset the dash?
  • pkgguypkgguy Posts: 2
    Press and hold reset for about 10 seconds. Same for any other reset.
  • evandroevandro Posts: 1,108
    After 7 years of service, I bid goodbye to my 02 Bonneville SLE.

    Unfortunately, in the last couple of years, the repair bills have been increasing steadily. At first, I thought that although big-ticket items had broken down, having new ones meant that the car could be in service for a few good years. I was slow to recognize that it was just the beginning of a series of increasingly more expensive break-downs, and eventually I had to draw the line. After the last major repair - involving yet again the intake manifold, though fixed "for free" if I did a tune-up (I smell a shadow recall by GM, since it's been replaced as part of a recall some 3 or 4 years ago) - I traded it in before something else would break on me.

    I now drive an used 06 Acura TL. It's not as roomy wide-wise, but comparably roomy length-wise. It's much more powerful and poised and quite more richly finished and trimmed. As a matter of fact, it's the first non-American car I've ever had. Ever since GM and Chrysler don't have to make products anymore, just give the White House a ring, I refuse to support this automotive Kabuki theater.

    And I have to say that as far as first impressions go, the TL is in another league. Truly, the Bonneville seems antediluvian in comparison. It had a good chassis, but its contents were cheapened as much as possible, from the wheezing V6 to the lackadaisical assembly. In hindsight I think that I should've checked the competition sooner.

    Yet, it was a good drive while it lasted. May its next owner enjoy it for many years.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,260
    >Ever since GM and Chrysler don't have to make products anymore, just give the White House a ring, I refuse to support this automotive Kabuki theater.

    That sounds like your own personal political opinion. I have one that differs. Such as the car brand you're driving is partly responsible for the demise of the US auto market by being allowed favored treatment through the decades.

    I don't keep track of models, but Hondas that are gussied up are given an Acura name although they are basically an Accord or Civic with extras. Yes, I know. The fellow and wife across the road have had several from a Integra(?), Legend, 3.5RLs (two), and a newer RL with Super drive or something like that which is his newest. He currently owns three out of the above list.

    Then there's the VCM problems on Accords and the transmission problems on the Odysseys (as well as other Honda models through the recent years).

    Speaking of cheapened I shopped the Honda dealer sitting in Accords of the previous era a couple winters back. The Civic SI had a nicer interior feel than the Accords. Plus I was reading recently about people having lint problems with it sticking badly to the seat surface (same type of quality lack I had noticed).

    As for wheezing V6, my two give 31-38 mpg rolling on the interstate or normal glacial plain open highways. That is sans the warmup mileage. That V6 gives lots of torque through a well-calibrated 4-speed transmission. I do not road race although I would win some drag races from stoplights with the motor but I don't drive my car that way. :sick:

    >lackadaisical assembly.

    "adj. Lacking spirit, liveliness, or interest; languid:" (dictionary.com)
    I don't know how you can tell the mood of the workers while assembling your car.

    If quality of assembly (rather than quality of materials assembled) is your meaning, I find my two leSabres to suit me just fine. They were well-assembled machines when delivered new to order. :)

    Please just go enjoy your TL (good luck with the automatic transmission, if you have one) and then tell those folks your complaints about your TL. :shades:
  • my dad gave me a 1966 bonneville when he past. i was told that there are only 3 ever maid from the factory with a 4 speed on the floor. i believe that it is a Muntzy Rock Crusher. I know dont really know anything about the car. he had it special ordered. the VIN is 262376p244962. can ANYONE tell me ANYTHING about it.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,260
    You might do better fishing for some info on some fan oriented Pontiac websites. I remember the big deal about having the Muncie 4-speed transmissions. I believe the gears were closer together in the transmissions--were they made by Warner in Muncie IN and hence the name?

    I don't know what area of the country you're in, but some cruise-ins may have people attending who know how to find what you're after. Corvette club members may also be aware of the type of info about older cars.

    Good luck with the car.
    :)
  • scscarsscscars Posts: 92
    Look for a classic Pontiac, Firebird/GTO or Camaro/Chevelle SS/Olds 442 club in your area for more info on this transmission. The Muncie "Rock Crusher" tranny could be had in many different GM cars back in the day. However, you may be right about your Bonneville with this tranny being very rare. Most of the cars that I remember having this set-up were GM's "pony" cars or their mid-size muscle cars. Of the large GM cars that may have had this transmission, you might find it in some Impala SS models, Buick Wildcats, and perhaps a few Bonneville 2+2s as well. Good luck!
  • arehmarehm Posts: 3
    I have a 2001 Bonneville SSEi and my radiator fans do not kick in they work fine when i turn on the AC but under normal conditions they do not appear to be kicking in. My car runs at 200 degrees even with the fans off and 185 with the AC on i replaced the theromstat with a 180 an it didnt change anything. How and where are the radiator fans controlled? Is there a sensor that could be malfunctioning?
  • fpadalinofpadalino Posts: 3
    When I start my 96 Bonneville there is quite the amount of smoke that emits from the tailpipe. The car runs pretty good and does not seem to smoke when running. Any ideas on what might be happening??
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,260
    edited May 2010
    >96 Bonneville there is quite the amount of smoke

    Is this smoke white? Is there a lot more of it after shutting the car down when it's thoroughly warmed up after a longer drive and less when starting up after a short trip or 1 mile or less and a shutdown?

    My guess would be coolant? Is the level dropping in the reserve tank AND/OR in the radiator? Take the cap off and check when the car has sat for a while to cool down the pressure.

    Stand behind and smell the smoke. If it's coolant it will be heavy and sweet smelling.
  • I just bought a 95 SE. I've had one before and I love these cars. Dependable and comfortable. I am having an issue with this one however.
    First, flashing check engine light. Not all the time, but about every third time I drive it. It does sound like it's missing when the light is flashing. Runs perfect otherwise. I checked the codes on the car and am getting the following: P1630-System voltage too high or too low, P1361-Ignition control Cylinder 1 not toggling after enable or low voltage, P0342-Camshaft Position Sensor "A" circuit low input (Bank 1 or single sensor). I've done a little research and read about intake issues, plugs & wires, maybe coil packs. Does anyone have any input since all three of these codes are present along with the flashing check engine light? One other thing. The voltmeter does ride just at the top of the red section during driving. The altenator was replaced just before I bought the car, about 400 miles ago.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,260
    Defective alternator?
    Defective battery?
    Bad connections at battery or grounds?

    I recall some people on some years had to wire a connection to the alternator to get proper charging.

    First move would be to have Advance Auto, Walmart, someone, run a test to see if the alternator is producing the right voltage.
  • bunny18bunny18 Posts: 2
    I am trying to find out what the value of a 1976 Pontiac Bonneville would be. This car has only 5.000 to 6.000 original miles on it.It has only seen rain once,and never seen winter. It is cream puff. Still smells like brand new inside...It has been maintained to the highest level. Original belts etc.were stored,and not used. It is black with black interior. I would like to find out the value of this car,but I have no idea where to look
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,260
    I would suggest looking in Hemmings magazine. You can watch auctions on Ebay for similar cars but it's difficult to see them for real value comparison and the bidding can be really flakey and fake on some of them, in my opinion.
  • bunny18bunny18 Posts: 2
    Thank you for the info. I will check it out.
  • cbleavinscbleavins Posts: 2
    In the heat of the day my car will runs for about 10 miles and than it will start to sputter and act like it is running out of gas than it will eventually die. If I let it set for about 5-10 minutes it will run fine for about 5 minutes and than it will start acting up again. Again this only happens in the heat of the day!!! I have replaced the MAF senor, O2 sensor, catilac converter, spark plugs and wire, fuel filter and tested the ignition module all is good.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,260
    edited July 2010
    Your description sounds like it could be a fuel pump heating up the longer it runs and losing pressure. Low pressure might be causing the sputtering.

    Buy or loan a fuel gauge set and tape it to the windshield while you're driving. When the car sputters check the fuel pressure. I do not know the correct pressure for your year car.

    To see if you lose spark, take an old spark plug and pull off the plug wire from a front plug and put in the old spark plug and lay it on the engine metal. Have someone crank while you watch the spark. If no spark then your got an ignition control module or connection going out or you've got a crankshaft position sensor losing magnetic contact with the heating.

    Some people say you can splash cold water on the crankshaft position sensor and if that helps it make magnetic contact and start sending again, that would indicate replacing it.

    Also when the engine sputters does the tachometer go crazy or drop to zero indicating no sensing of the engine's rotations? That would point to electrical problems.

    You can disconnect the MAF when it won't start. It should start and run without it, but not the same as normal.

    Diagnosis is needed. You may have replaced parts that don't need be. Oxygen sensors are tricky. Some think that after market sensors cause more trouble than people think.

    A third guess is when it sputters and slows and dies do you get a smell of a hot catalytic converter? I don't know that this would keep the engine from restarting, but you might pull the vacuum hose off the fuel pressure regulator on the fuel line. See if there's liquid gasoline in it right after the car's been running. That would indicate it's leaking through the diaphragm.
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