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Pontiac Bonneville

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Comments

  • arehmarehm Posts: 3
    I have a 2001 Bonneville SSEi and my radiator fans do not kick in they work fine when i turn on the AC but under normal conditions they do not appear to be kicking in. My car runs at 200 degrees even with the fans off and 185 with the AC on i replaced the theromstat with a 180 an it didnt change anything. How and where are the radiator fans controlled? Is there a sensor that could be malfunctioning?
  • fpadalinofpadalino Posts: 3
    When I start my 96 Bonneville there is quite the amount of smoke that emits from the tailpipe. The car runs pretty good and does not seem to smoke when running. Any ideas on what might be happening??
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 17,696
    edited May 2010
    >96 Bonneville there is quite the amount of smoke

    Is this smoke white? Is there a lot more of it after shutting the car down when it's thoroughly warmed up after a longer drive and less when starting up after a short trip or 1 mile or less and a shutdown?

    My guess would be coolant? Is the level dropping in the reserve tank AND/OR in the radiator? Take the cap off and check when the car has sat for a while to cool down the pressure.

    Stand behind and smell the smoke. If it's coolant it will be heavy and sweet smelling.

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  • I just bought a 95 SE. I've had one before and I love these cars. Dependable and comfortable. I am having an issue with this one however.
    First, flashing check engine light. Not all the time, but about every third time I drive it. It does sound like it's missing when the light is flashing. Runs perfect otherwise. I checked the codes on the car and am getting the following: P1630-System voltage too high or too low, P1361-Ignition control Cylinder 1 not toggling after enable or low voltage, P0342-Camshaft Position Sensor "A" circuit low input (Bank 1 or single sensor). I've done a little research and read about intake issues, plugs & wires, maybe coil packs. Does anyone have any input since all three of these codes are present along with the flashing check engine light? One other thing. The voltmeter does ride just at the top of the red section during driving. The altenator was replaced just before I bought the car, about 400 miles ago.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 17,696
    Defective alternator?
    Defective battery?
    Bad connections at battery or grounds?

    I recall some people on some years had to wire a connection to the alternator to get proper charging.

    First move would be to have Advance Auto, Walmart, someone, run a test to see if the alternator is producing the right voltage.

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  • bunny18bunny18 Posts: 2
    I am trying to find out what the value of a 1976 Pontiac Bonneville would be. This car has only 5.000 to 6.000 original miles on it.It has only seen rain once,and never seen winter. It is cream puff. Still smells like brand new inside...It has been maintained to the highest level. Original belts etc.were stored,and not used. It is black with black interior. I would like to find out the value of this car,but I have no idea where to look
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 17,696
    I would suggest looking in Hemmings magazine. You can watch auctions on Ebay for similar cars but it's difficult to see them for real value comparison and the bidding can be really flakey and fake on some of them, in my opinion.

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  • bunny18bunny18 Posts: 2
    Thank you for the info. I will check it out.
  • cbleavinscbleavins Posts: 2
    In the heat of the day my car will runs for about 10 miles and than it will start to sputter and act like it is running out of gas than it will eventually die. If I let it set for about 5-10 minutes it will run fine for about 5 minutes and than it will start acting up again. Again this only happens in the heat of the day!!! I have replaced the MAF senor, O2 sensor, catilac converter, spark plugs and wire, fuel filter and tested the ignition module all is good.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 17,696
    edited July 2010
    Your description sounds like it could be a fuel pump heating up the longer it runs and losing pressure. Low pressure might be causing the sputtering.

    Buy or loan a fuel gauge set and tape it to the windshield while you're driving. When the car sputters check the fuel pressure. I do not know the correct pressure for your year car.

    To see if you lose spark, take an old spark plug and pull off the plug wire from a front plug and put in the old spark plug and lay it on the engine metal. Have someone crank while you watch the spark. If no spark then your got an ignition control module or connection going out or you've got a crankshaft position sensor losing magnetic contact with the heating.

    Some people say you can splash cold water on the crankshaft position sensor and if that helps it make magnetic contact and start sending again, that would indicate replacing it.

    Also when the engine sputters does the tachometer go crazy or drop to zero indicating no sensing of the engine's rotations? That would point to electrical problems.

    You can disconnect the MAF when it won't start. It should start and run without it, but not the same as normal.

    Diagnosis is needed. You may have replaced parts that don't need be. Oxygen sensors are tricky. Some think that after market sensors cause more trouble than people think.

    A third guess is when it sputters and slows and dies do you get a smell of a hot catalytic converter? I don't know that this would keep the engine from restarting, but you might pull the vacuum hose off the fuel pressure regulator on the fuel line. See if there's liquid gasoline in it right after the car's been running. That would indicate it's leaking through the diaphragm.

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