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Chevy Colorado and GMC Canyon ABS Fault Issues

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  • Oh btw, this is a fun list you might enjoy.
    LIST OF REPAIRS WITHIN 2 YEAR:

    new transfer case.
    2 thermostats.
    2 wheel hubs and sensors. ** hubs still make grinding noise periodically**
    remote starter screwed up power locks and eventually wouldnt start anymore and oddly enough it screwed up the key fob so the doors wouldnt lock, or they would get stuck in lock position.
    constantly replacing parking lap bulbs and turn signal bulbs.
    factory radio burned out and was forced to use after market radio.
    leaf springs squeak depending on size of bump.
    2 front axle seals. ** still leaking **
    and seat tracks on passenger side stick some days.
    speaker on passenger side does not work. * new speaker and new wire harness*
    and constantly have to clean the throttle body otherwise it runs like garbage. and last, and im sure just for now, there is some sort of evap leak that has something to do with a valve? i was so mad i didnt bother remembering the code. truck is just a lemon and will never buy one again!
  • kmartickmartic Posts: 12
    There have been many posts about this issue. There is a ground wire on the the inner fender that does not always make a good conection and it needs to be cleaned and retightened. It sounds like this is your problem especially since you say you have weak power after the fuse box. Have you ever seen trailer lights that were very dim due to a poor ground-- same issue. Search the sight for this poor ground situation, there have been posts with pictures explaining it. Good luck, my truck was a nightmare until I got rid of it. GM is no help and dealers just want to rape and plunder
  • n9cvn9cv Posts: 30
    What you are describing here is probably the most common electrical failure on the Colorado. I have fixed many of these and I wrote a long procedure on how to diagnose this problem.

    Go to the following site and read the posting on how to find your problem. The two most common failures in the blower motor circuit are the ground connection on the right inner fender and burning the resistor connection which is mounted next to the blower motor. Both of these are fairly easy to repair. Other things that occasionally fail are the bower relay and the motor itself.

    http://coloradofans.com/forums/67-technical-questions-tips-how/146173-question-a- bout-blower-motor.html#post1876908
  • bailem2bailem2 Posts: 1
    edited January 2012
    The blower motor issue and the ABS faults are two very common issues on the Colorado. From what you mentioned you've done so far, you may wish to check that the ground block is not the source of the problem. You mentioned that it's solid, however it is commonly tight with no visible corrosion, but once disassembled, cleaned with a wire brush, and reassembled, it works. I've this it happen twice. The tell here is that when the blower motor starts malfunctioning, you'll find it works sometimes and not others before it finally dies altogether. A burnt connector or bad resistor will generally die at once and never work again.

    As for the ABS, the front sensors commonly malfunction for two reasons - either they fill up with debris or the ring under the magnet separates from the hub and touches the sensor magnet. Debris can be cleaned out once everything is taken apart, however if the ring separates from the hub, you have to either devise a way to reattach it with some sort of adhesive or buy a new hub assembly. Several years ago, you couldn't get sensors without buying the entire hub assembly, but recently, they have been selling sensors separately. It's quite a bit of labor to take the spindle apart to get at this, so it may be worth replacing both hubs for $250 regardless of the cause of the problem depending on how much time you have. If you have both hubs, you know you'll have the parts to reassemble it and that it will work when you put it back together. If not, you might have to wait for the appropriate parts to reassemble or be forced to reassemble without the correct parts only to have to do the job again after the parts arrive.

    If you have a scan tool that is capable of connecting to the ABS system, you can actually watch the LF, RF and rear wheel speeds while driving. If you're getting a fault, you'll likely see one or more sensors reporting MUCH slower wheel speeds than it should under certain operating conditions like turns. This morning, I was looking at mine after getting an ABS fault, and the LF sensor indicated 35MPH and the RH sensor indicated 35MPH and dropped sporadically to 5-9MPH for seconds at a time. THis is because the sensor magnet counts the speed at which cogs on the ring pass under the magnet and when the gap gets filled with crud or the ring actually comes in contact with the magnet after separation from the hub, a ABS coupouter counts less cogs then it should in a given amount of time and sets a code if this goes on for too long and illuminates the fault lamp. Timken, the hub manufacturer, also sells an ABS Repair Kit containing a cable, screw, and grease, however I'm not exactly sure what it does.

    Regards,

    Michael D. Bailey
    2005 Chevrolet Colorado Z71 LS
    Delanson, NY
  • Does anyone know what these codes mean? B0035, B0040,B0899, U1000, U1026, U1064. My check engine light came 2 days ago and a friend of mine has a code reader (don't know what kind) and these came up. Also when i went to start the truck to do real time data check, my battery was dead due to leaving stereo on, the ABS Fault light came on. Charged the battery completely and started the truck to do the real time data check and no check engine light and no ABS fault. This was yesterday and still no check engine light. I forgot to mention it did throw a code P0128, which it told me coolant temperature low, that is why we ran the real time data to check coolant temperature, which we determined thermastat needs replacing.
  • jjgolfhackerjjgolfhacker Posts: 5
    edited January 2012
    You can google them all...just type "B0035 code chevy colorado" (as well as the other code #s) and it will come up with answers. It seems B0035 is the Left front brake sensor. B0040 is the right ABS/Speed sensor. You are going to have to do with the others. But looks like you may go thru what so many of us Colorado owners have went through with our ABS on our trucks.
  • kpokpo Posts: 24
    Caron and all GM/ Chevy Reps,
    I feel for you. You have an impossible job. The engineers designed (or didn't design)and built a loser of a truck and the company doesn't back their products. How many people have an ABS issue?? I traded in a 9 year old Acura with 142000 miles that just started to show mechanical wear (only brakes and tires replaced). My 2006 Colorado has had problems at 32000mi and others since (now at 53000) including rain leaks in at the windshield (puddle on the floor) and back window, ABS with shuttering loss of brakes, short in the brake light assembly, the 4WD locks in and won't go back into 2WD when selected (until it desides to) and premature rear brake wear due to a faulty parking brake design. When I went on disability I traded in my older car to get a new 2006 Colorado for reliable transportation, but got nothing but lip service from service managers and head aches with fear of losing my life on the road. Manager said, "I get hundreds of vehicles in here each week and they all leak somewhere." Now why did Chevy almost go into Bankruptcy and need a US bail out? What a waste of tax payer's money. I thought that I should support the US, but who supports us? Might as well sell out to Japan or Korea; Chevy sold out.
    KPO
  • kpokpo Posts: 24
    Has anyone had their '06 Colorado not start in the rain on several occations due to the truck's anti- theft system shutting down the ignition or fuel pump?
    KPO
  • Good morning,
    I appreciate your empathy, but we really do hope to do the best we can for our customers. I'm sorry to hear about the multiple issues that have come up with your Colorado; if we can look further into this with you, please send us an email with more information (name/Edmunds username, the last 8 digits of your VIN, and the name of your dealership) and my coworker Christina will direct you further.
    Regards,
    Sarah
    GM Customer Service
  • So far I've had no issues with the ABS as of yet. No check engine light or codes. I do have to say fuel mileage is down. Friend told me faulty thermostat could be the problem. Will be replacing within a couple weeks and see what happens.
  • This happened to me the other day got the ABS fault message so i turned off the truck and turned it back on and the problem was fixed, now the check engine light is on and i had it checked and these are the codes i got B0040, B0221, B0895, V1000, V102e,V1064,P0300, most of these related to the rf wheel speed sensor, rf anti lock brake, device 1 voltage low, class 2 data link, loss of class 2 something???, lost communication with body and misfire, does anyone know how to fix this and how much it cost.
  • n9cvn9cv Posts: 30
    Here is the way I would approach this.

    First based on the poor history these sensors on Colorados and Canyons, it is probably a right front wheel sensor dirty, or adjustment, or occasionally defective.

    Rather than throw expensive parts at it like most dealerships will do, I suggest that you try to narrow it down first. I would clear all of the codes and reset the ABS controller. Then the moment you get a new ABS light have the codes checked again. Hopefully this time you will not so many codes to deal with. Also there is a good possibility that after you reset it you may not see the problem again.

    To reset all of these simply disconnect the battery for 30 minutes or more (overnight is fine). When reconnecting the battery attach the battery cable and immediately tighten it again. The computers (ABS, PCM and BCM) do not like the power flickering off and on, so connect the cable once and do not let it bounce around during reconnection.

    If it is a bad sensor it is entirely possible the is is just dirty or out of adjustment. Most dealerships will not tell you this as they make more money replacing it. Clean the sensor and pick up with brake cleaner. Then tap slightly in on the sensor to make sure it is seated all the way. That is usually all that is wrong with these.

    If it turns out to be a bad sensor, the sensor is available WITHOUT the hub assembly from GM. Replace the sensor WITHOUT the hub. It is a much cheaper repair. Most GM dealerships will tell you that you need a new hub assembly when cleaning or replacing the sensor is all that is needed.

    Good Luck
  • Hi I too have had a lot of ABS problems coming on and going off ! I have a 2006 Colorado crew cab with 26,000 miles on it. I took it to a GM dealer two times for the same problem they changed FL ABS hub and sensor a ground problem, that fixed it for about a year now the warranty on my truck is over with and now the ABS problem is back I think it's the FR ABS ( and it only has 26,000 miles on it ) My vin is 1GCCS136768307835 The dealer is Kelly Chevrolet Fort Wayne In 500 E. State Ave 46805 Thanks Marvin
  • If you haven't gotten in contact with us already, we would be happy to get a Service Request going for you on this. Please email us your name/Edmunds username, contact info (phone and address) and perhaps a link to this post (as my coworker Christina answers incoming emails). We'd be happy to look into whatever options may be available for you, although we can't promise anything up front.
    Regards,
    Sarah
    GM Customer Service
  • I think I will just fix my truck and trade in for something other than GM , I don't need the run arounds .I now GM will not fix any of this, they really dropped the ball on this one .So I'm done driving a chevy after 30 + years driving and working a chevy
  • I can understand your decision, and wish you all the best.
    Sarah
    GM Customer Service
  • I have a 2005 Colorado for about 11 months and drove it about 7,000 miles. It has 50,000 on it right now. I'm having ABS problems. The fault light comes on. The brake pedal gets hard where you can barely stop and makes a loud noise. I've had the brakes checked and they are fine. I'm thinking that it is probably a sensor. I don't think I should pay $17,000 not even a year ago, then fork out another couple hundred for this problem. I believe after reading all the complaints from other owners, this should be a recall on GM's part as a safety hazard.
  • kpokpo Posts: 24
    Sarah, Re: ABS, 4WD, Leaks, Anti-theft/no start, rear brakes 02-16-2012
    The answers to your request:
    Ken Overdorf/ KPO/ ...68226297/ don't have a dealer that I can call "your (my) dealer".
    I look forward to hearing from Christina. Check Service Bulletin#04-08-57-004A for starters.
  • kpokpo Posts: 24
    Sarah, Re: ABS, 4WD, Leaks, Anti-theft/no start, rear brakes 02-16-2012
    The answers to your request:
    Ken Overdorf/ KPO/ ...68226297/ don't have a dealer that I can call "your (my) dealer".
    I look forward to hearing from Christina. Check Service Bulletin#04-08-57-004A for starters.
  • kpokpo Posts: 24
    I'll Try Quigley Chevy (Bally, PA) for a dealer.
    Ken
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