Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Chevy Colorado and GMC Canyon ABS Fault Issues

1121314151618»

Comments

  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,001
    cig1952,
    We're glad to hear that the dealership helped you get to the bottom of the brake concern you had been having on your Colorado. Keep us posted if anything should come up as we're available to follow up on this with you and your dealership (we can be reached via email at socialmedia@gm.com and ask that you include your name and contact information, as well as a summary of the situation and the last 8 digits of your VIN).

    Sarah, GM Customer Service
  • I am thankful to say that I haven't had one problem with my ABS brakes since I pulled the fuse.
  • kpokpo Posts: 24
    I used to think that GM. the manufacturer, and their dealers, were the biggest deceivers and tellers of 'woppers' till I started to pay attention to the ads, news videos and debates of the upcoming candidates for public office. Not everyone can be right and then blame the other for being wrong!
    So, congratulations GM, you're now in second place of the biggest liars in the USA. GM says in response to ABS complaints, " There's nothing wrong with your ABS system; it just has worn out parts like other wear and tear parts, like tires and brake pads, that must be replaced over time." I say, OK, but how long should brake system parts (not pads) last and how should we know they are 'worn out' before we die on the road from BRAKE FAILURE. Even brake pads have a 'squeeler' to warn us of worn 'pads'. Shouldn't sensors and hubs last for more than 35,000 to 40,000 miles; brake pads (and practically all of the over 10,000 other parts) do.
    How is that?
  • n9cvn9cv Posts: 30
    Mine intermittently fail. Probably about once a month. It is a sensor and I believe it is the right front but I have never been able to catch it. The dealership was absolutely useless othe that to say for big bucks they woudl replace both front hubs an sensors. I reseated both front sensors a couple of years ago and that pretty much took care of it except for the once a month failure.

    The last time it failed I was doing 55 and the alarm went off and I looked down to see the message. While doing that I did not see the light in front of me change to red. When I looked up again and saw the red light, I nailed the brakes forgetting that I now had no ABS and put the truck sideways into the middle of the intersection. I hit nothing so the only damage was some flat spots on my tires.

    In 19 pages of postings here we have beat this subject to death. GM will not fix it and so we will live with it. A quick inventory of replacement hubs and sensors sold by them for these trucks would easily establish that there is a problem. They are not interested. It is a dead product that is no long sold and the manufacturing plant is closed down so do not expect much from them. There is a follow on truck scheduled for next year being to be made in Missouri. All one can hope for is a redesign of this area on the new product.
  • kpokpo Posts: 24
    Colorado = :lemon:
  • marroemarroe Posts: 7
    Let me correct that- General Motors= Lemon

    I was hesitant in buying my Colorado because of previous issues with General Motors. My wife commented that the Colorado was a "piece of crap" after test driving a brand new one at the dealership. No more General Motors products for the rest of my life. This Colorado is the last one.

    Don't get me wrong, there is so much to love about these trucks. I still love mine. It just keeps giving me more and more reasons to hate it. ABS issues, power windows may or may not work, had the leaky third brake light, a quart of oil per tank of gas, radio and speakers have a mind of their own, etc... I filed with the NTSB because of the ABS problem. Now I can not get rid of it because my VIN number is associated with a known problem and the CarFax tells the story to the world. No one wants to give me anything for it. I will just keep it for when it snows or I need to haul something on the weekend. It is way too unreliable as a daily driver. Luckily I can afford a second car and I learned to drive in the snow before ABS brakes existed. Never another GM product. (Which really sucks since I am part owner of the company as a US Taxpayer)

    Please everyone, be safe. This is a dangerous defect that we will have to live or die with.
  • I am having the same problem with a buddy's truck, 2005 colorado Z71 ls 3.5l. I changed his rotors and now we are having all of the problems listed in this discussion. Has anyone found a solution?
  • kpokpo Posts: 24
    We all have all the same problems due to GM design flaws. I have discovered by trial and error (including your errors), that if your brakes stop functioning 'normally', which was never that good when they do work, I simply pull off the road turn off the motor sit for about 25 seconds and then restart. This will most times reset the ABS and the brakes function again without the horrible sounds, fading and the blinking "ABS" light. I say this means it is not physical worn out parts, but simply (like so many other issues) an electrical design blunder.
    GM has paid back their Bailout Loan with all of their 'corner cutting' schemes, at our expense. EXAMPLE: All of the high rear mount Brake Light Assembly leaks are because they made the assembly INCORRECTLY: Foam gasket (what a joke). only two screws (one on each end) on an extra long light unit with insufficient pressure to seal water out. All of these require the consumer to get parts and labor from the dealer, who splits the profit with GM. GM stands for "Greed Mongers". As described by The Free Dictionary. com:
    greed (grd)
    n.
    An excessive desire to acquire or possess more than what one needs or deserves, especially with respect to material wealth
    mon·ger (mnggr, mng-)
    n.
    1. A dealer in a specific commodity. Often used in combination: an ironmonger.
    2. A person promoting something undesirable or discreditable. Often used in combination: a scandalmonger; a warmonger.
  • mgilly1mgilly1 Posts: 2
    edited December 2012
    I too have just had to get a new hub to fix this. While in I also needed to get a NYS inspection which the vehicle failed, On-board computer was not ready to be tested. Service department told me to drive the truck 100 miles or so to clear it, 10 miles later I get a check engine light....now I need to get a head replaced. The dealership has been super nice which leads me to believe somethings up...then again if somebody just paid me $1,000 and was on the hook for another $2,200 I'd be super nice too.
  • n9cvn9cv Posts: 30
    There is a 7 year 100,00 mile coverage on that head. GM had a problem with a lot of them due to soft valve seats and they extended warranty. Ask the dealer, better yet tell the dealer, because some of them act like thy never heard about it. Be carefull about dealer add ons if you do get warranty coverage. Some dealerships have been padding the bill with non-warranty items and charging the owner.

    If the dealership acts stupid on this, call the GM 1-800 number in your owner's manual or post again here and I'll go find the letter that GM sent out.
  • Thanks for the info. unfortunately I have had the truck for 7 and a half years only 75,000 miles though. I will discuss this with the dealership. Thanks again - Gilly
  • I replaced the ABS sensors in front hubs of my 2004 colorado. Is there a right or left or doesn't it matter.
  • I just changed front brakes on my 2006 Colorado 4WD. Now the ABS fault light flashes. I have checked the connection. Does the ABS sensor need to be reset?
  • I had several problems with my 06 Chevy Colorado. Recently, i am showing abs faults, communication problems, MAF sensor and a couple of others. I also have my heater blower only working on high. I changed the resistor twice and still the same. i learned to deal with it but enough is enough, i also had a sunroof install when i purchased my car and that is now recalled. I am looking for assistance. i would like help from Chevy with the lemon I was sold by one of their dealerships. I dont want to play an arm and a leg to repair items that both the dealership and GM corp. both know is faulty and refuse to recall so the consumer pay out of pocket for the repairs. Boycotts, protests and bad publicity is never good. Who wants to lose a paying customer, especially during this economy. Motor companies are already making cut backs. NO more Pontiac or Saturn, what brand is next!!!!
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,001
    jv4needs,
    Have you already contacted Customer Assistance? If not and you would like for us to check into this further, please email us at socialmedia@gm.com with more information (including your name and contact information, the last 8 digits of your VIN and mileage, and a summary of the situation).
    Sarah, GM Customer Service
  • n9cvn9cv Posts: 30
    The blower motor circuit is the most common posting on the Colorado forums. A new thread gets started there at least once a week on this problem. One of the threads was reported to be 60 pages long. Another was 38 pages the last time I looked at it a few years ago. We got so tired of typing the same responses to the problem over and over that I put together a summary response here:

    http://coloradofans.com/forums/67-technical-questions-tips-how/146173-question-a- bout-blower-motor.html#post1876908

    I see you replaced the resistor twice. Did you also replace the cable that includes the connector for the resistor? Was the pins on either the resistor or the connector burned brown? GM has had so many failures of this assembly that they also offer a repair cable with a new connector. These parts are also available in the after market on sites like on Rock Auto. The cable is a simple replacement.

    If the connector and resistor pins are OK, and the resistor is not burned but is indeed open, then there is a little fuse like component as part of the resistor assembly. If that is what it blowing then you are drawing too much current through the resistor assembly. This draw is caused by a bad bearing in the fan motor or a restriction dragging down the fan. If replacing the resistor is all you need to get it going again with no burned pins, then I suggest in the future that you do not use position #3. That position draws the most current through the resistor assembly. Position #4 bypasses the resistor assembly completely so 1, 2, and 4 are safe to use. Also removing and lubing the fan motor bearings or replacing the fan motor might be in order.

    Here is a link to the wiring diagram for the blower motor:

    http://www.naskie18.com/colorado/schematics/05_Colorado_I5/AC%20Heater.pdf

    Oh yes, we also have a GM customer service person monitoring over on the Colorado forum. He is as useless as the one here. It may be the same person using a different name. If not, it probably is the same department.

    I can not help you on the MAF or Communications problems.

    ABS / Traction Control problems are the second most common failure. This almost always is the front wheel sensor or sensors. You can usually fix those by simply tapping on the back of them with a plastic hammer to re-seat them. If that does not do it, then replacement is in order. Again after market parts are much cheaper and available for this high failure item. Check Rock Auto or your favorite auto parts store for the sensors without having to buy the whole hub like GM dealers usually sell.
  • Just be aware that "your GM rep" will ask for your info and then do nothing. This has been going on for years with this junk. No recalls just lip service. I recomend you try to sell it or scrap it and never by any gm, gmc, chevy what ever. There are way better vehicles out there and their reps listen to you and get things fixed but not gm. I'll never own another. Your'e wasting your time with these folks. Keep fixing it yourself and write it off. Oh how many times have you had to replace your'e tail lite module? Thats another thing. Brick Anti-GM from now on. Proud owner now of 2 toyotas no problems for years they run like a top.
  • n9cvn9cv Posts: 30
    Do you know how nice it would be to see a posting here from someone saying:
    "I contacted the GM rep on my blower motor resistor failure. They shipped a new resistor and cable assembly to my local dealer with instructions to install them for free. I was in and out in 30 minutes and my blower works fine now."
    The real value of the whole thing would be around $40.00 retail in parts and 15 minutes labor).

    I'm just dreaming I know but this is all it would take to get some real good PR for them.

    I would even happier to see them do something like this with the wheel sensors and the evap vent valve. The evap vent valve is available for $15 in the after market and takes about 1/2 hour to install.

    I just woke up and realized it was all just a dream. Oh well, one can dream can't they.
  • kpokpo Posts: 24
    General Motors has pocketed $5 billion in net profit
    GM replace or fix an American Product Faulty Part?
    Not going to happen. GM is losing the American "loyalist" due to their poor quality products, poor quality PR and Customer follow up, and poor "Loyalty to the loyal customer". They build them and don't back them. They throw most of their profits to business growth opportunity gambles in Opel Europe and the Asian market; waste 39 million per year on a soccer promotion, but don't replace $15 faulty American GM auto parts and simply give Americans the lip service and European sports the GM profits, Now, GM, who bought the products that paid the profits in the past to make you so BIG?
    Americans!
  • buz5buz5 Posts: 1
    2006 colorado abs fault. Replaced hub and sensor. No more problems. Sensor came with hub. Tried to replace just the sensor would not work.buz5
Sign In or Register to comment.