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Chevy Colorado and GMC Canyon ABS Fault Issues

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Comments

  • bjmcgarry6bjmcgarry6 Posts: 2
    Christina,

    I have a 2005 Colorado myself and i am having the same problems everybody else is having. My 4wd will kick in whenever it feels like it, my abs light comes on whenever it wants and locks up my breaks causing me to almost hit somebody. I cannot let anybody in my family drive my truck because of this problem and on top of that i continuously have water leaks underneath the front and rear driver side seats. Don't you think after all these complaints you would do something about this? After having a truck 5 years old with only 80,000 miles on it i should never have to worry about this. i had a ford before i recently bought this truck and not once ever had problems like this and the truck was over 10 years old and the only thing i ever had to do to it was change tires and breaks. There should never be any problems like this after having a vehicle only 5 years old. I think its about time you do something about fixing these problems and to not say over and over to contact your GM dealership and have them look at the problem, if its continuous problems then you being a GM customer service should complain and have all these POS recalled. Thank you.
  • brewerguybrewerguy Posts: 11
    I am shocked at how many of you are having this much trouble with your trucks. I have an intermittant ABS issue, but since there is no locking up of the brakes, just the occasional ABS buzzing, I've decided to wait before getting it repaired. When the buzzing occurs, I shut off the ignition and restart and that usually stops the ABS buzzing. It might not happen again for weeks or months.

    My previous truck was a 1994 GMC Sonoma (S-10) whose rear brakes would lock up on the first brake application on damp mornings...no other time. I had it to two different dealers with even the rear drums and shoes getting replaced, all to no avail. The ABS, though, worked fine until 2005, when I traded it in on my current Colorado.

    The Colorado has been an almost perfect vehicle for 49,000 miles, requiring only an oxygen sensor replacement, new tires and new battery, which was just replaced last month. I guess I'm just lucky?
  • eddy29eddy29 Posts: 1
    I have the same problem you had and solved. I took brakes apart put in new rotors and pads and now my ABS system is acting up. I am curious to know if your brakes are still working well and you still are not getting the ABS light coming on?

    Thanks for your response.
  • kmartickmartic Posts: 12
    Christina,
    I have posted on Edmunds a number of times about the problems with my Colorado. I have replaced a total of 5 hubs including the originals. The ABS system is constantly misbehaving, never sure when it will work or not! Have replaced the abs rings with each hub replacement. The Fan resistor had to be replaced, now the drivers door is popping if you do not close it gently at the top of its run. I am now replacing both front calipers and front brake hoses. On various occasions the front brakes progressively lock up. Depends on how far from home I am as to whether I make it home. On two occasions the rotors got so hot that I could see them glowing red hot. Had I not called my wife to have the garden hose ready when I got home it may have caught fire. The truck is useless. The underside of the hood near the latch has a 3” square rust hole through it. This is all on a 2005 vehicle with less than70,000 miles. I am a retired public school auto mechanics teacher with 32 years in the classroom as well as having taught numerous adult night classes at our local community college. I also have my own restoration business so I know my way around automobiles and this is without a doubt the worst vehicle for reliability and quality I have ever owned. I have been a GM man up until this truck. I still have my nice one ton dually diesel and did have a nice GMC Envoy. After this Colorado I traded the Envoy in for a Ford Edge Limited. None of these complaints are unique to my truck as evidenced by not only the posts on Edmunds but also on sites like Colorado Fan.com. You are aware of the issues but seem to offer no relief. Guess if you wait long enough the trucks will all end up in the junkyard but in the meantime you will be losing long time customers! I never know how to use the brakes on my truck. Maybe you could offer some advice. Since I never know if the ABS will engage or not, in an emergency stopping situation do I pump the brakes as if no ABS or step and hold as if I had ABS. That does present a dilemma to me as well as a safety issue. What are you thoughts if you had to drive the truck since the problem seems incurable for me as well as many others. Keith Williams
  • leadfoot4leadfoot4 Posts: 593
    "Eddy29", my brakes have been functioning properly since I did the repairs.... My ABS light does not come on, but keep in mind, I replaced the wheels speed sensors.
  • kmartickmartic Posts: 12
    I have replaced the wheel sensors twice, 2 pair and that hasn't fixed mine. Beware they may work for weeks and then stop and then work again for a while,totally random Good luck with yours
  • leadfoot4leadfoot4 Posts: 593
    "kmartic", while I understand your sentiments, my OE sensors worked well for 5.5 years/29,500 miles. I only had trouble after I disassembled the front end to replace the brake rotors, and it was only with one of the sensors (LF).

    According to one of the "dirty fingernail, skinned knuckle" Canyon/Colorado websites, you have a 50/50 chance of having ABS sensor issues after disassembling the front hubs. It appears that I fell into this category.

    However, I then disassembled the truck again, replaced both sensors with ACDelco replacement parts, and have had no issues. That was 6 months/3500 miles ago, and the ABS saw a regular workout through the winter, with the slippery road conditions that I regularly drive through.

    FWIW, my truck is a 4WD....
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,082
    GM Customers,
    I understand your frustrations with your situations. As all major companies or corporations, we have standard operating procedures. GM does handle their customers individually, not all situations are the same, so they must be handled on a case by case basis. I am here to help make GM aware of your situations. The only way I can do this is with your assistance. First, I need your contact information (including a good number to reach you), VIN, current mileage, involved dealer, and a break down of what you are experiencing. The best way to get me this information is a direct email. If you are unsure or uncomfortable please feel free to inquire with the host, or send me an email with your telephone number and I can give you a call. Second, the vehicle must be taken to a GM Dealer. They have a contract with GM and must look at the vehicle. For GM to know you are experiencing issues, you must contact GM; whether it is me via email or Customer Assistance via the telephone. This will help identify the problem and how large it is. I understand when you are experiencing these concerns these processes can be frustrating. All concerns, whether it be with a dealer or your vehicle, are documented in the cases set up if you directly contact GM. If you would like to call Customer Assistance and speak with someone the number is in your owners manual, or email me and I can provide it to you. If you would like me to assist you, please feel free to email me the information requested above. I hope everyone has a great weekend!
    Christina
    GM Customer Service
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,082
    kmartic,
    I apologize for your frustrations. Can you please email me your VIN and mileage? I would like to look into this further for you.
    Christina
    GM Customer Service
  • I have contacted customer service on many many occasions.
    We never get anything resolved.
  • kmartickmartic Posts: 12
    As I was finishing the latest brake job yesterday,calipers and hoses and another set of pads,4th set, because they had been baked into a flaking state by the calipers locking and sticking, I was thinking on how much this junk truck would have cost me and made some GM dealer. At this point it would have been multiple thousands of dollars. Thank God I have the ability and the tools to do this stuff myself! As soon as I am financially able I will be off to a different manufacturer for a new truck. Sorry to say this but it will be a long time before I walk into another GM dealership after this experience!!!!! Christina suggests that we open a case with GM. That will get nothing. They are already fully aware of the problems with these trucks and really are just giving lip service to the problem.
  • kmartickmartic Posts: 12
    Good morning, the Vin on my truck is 1GCDT136258140039 and the mileage is 68,789. Can you tell me the date that the warranty was put in service because I have that large rust hole on the bottom of the hood but I am sure the warranty won't stand by that some how it will be too late. Thanks, Keith Williams
  • jjgolfhackerjjgolfhacker Posts: 5
    edited May 2011
    That's how mine started, (according to my mechanic) there is ring on the bearing with a raised bump on it. As the ring spins it passes a magnet on the sensor which confirms that the tire is in fact spinning. That ring has a tendency to break loose from the bearing and will on occassion stop spinning with the bearing which tells the sensor that that wheel is locked up. The ABS will in turn kick in and "pump" the breaks. Mine did it rarely for about the first 6-8 months then it got worse as time went along. It eventually got so bad that i could not even drive the vehicle. Maybe you are lucky and you will never have to replace the hub, but my guess is that within the next year or so you will be replacing a hub.
  • n9cvn9cv Posts: 30
    On two other forums I belong to on the Colorado/ Canyon (Colorado Fans and 355 Nation) it has become apparent that there are several weak points that keep coming up year after year. One would expect that GM would have engineered out these problems over the years as field failure data became available. They haven't.

    The first is electrical items. The most frequent is the burning of fan motor resistor connection to It's harness. (This failure is so common that GM actually sells a harness repair kit for this). Second would be the ground connection on the right front front fender. A simple tooth washer during assembly like GM did on the S-10 series would have prevented this. Others are poor connections with the power windows, connections on turn and brake light bulbs, wheel speed sensors, brake light switches, trailer wiring harness adapter, ABS controller failures, the evap vent valve, and the clock-spring in the steering that affects the horn and the air bag. I have the last three failing right now that I have not gotten around to fixing yet due to the high replacement parts costs.

    I really love this truck, as do most of the people on these forums, but the high rate of certain failures make it very expensive for someone who has to pay ridiculous prices at the dealers to get these very common failures repaired.

    Some other non-electrical common failures are the cam actuator solenoid, and sticking (due to internal rust) of the front brake calipers.

    You can see the Japanese influence in the design of this truck which in some cases in not necessarily better. Two examples are the rear brake and turn signal wiring (separate bulbs for each though hidden behind the same red lens) and the front rotors that require removal of the hubs (extra labor) to replace.
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,082
    coloradolemon,

    Since you have spoken with GM Customer Assistance, could you please email me your case number? I would like to look further into your situation.

    Thank you,
    Caron, GM Customer Service
  • kmartickmartic Posts: 12
    Put very well, these are all issues that should have never been allowed to exist on these trucks. My truck is really cursed. Fixed the front brakes, actually drove the truck for two days with no issues. Went out yesterday morning to go to the gym and it would not back up. Would only spin one rear tire. Put in 4 low and went for it and it broke free and took out the shoe return spring and the wheel cylinder as well as bending the rear anchor point on the backing plate for the large horseshoe brake shoe anchor. Upon inspection it seems the wheel cylinder had been leaking onto the brake shoes. No sign of spongy pedal or brake fluid running down the backing plate. I have never seen anything like the horrendous list of problems with this truck. It is almost laughable on something with only 68,000 miles.
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,082
    kmartic,
    Can you please send me your contact information including a good number to reach you, and your involved dealer. I would like to look into this further. Your in service date is 1/13/2005. I look forward to your email.
    Christina
    GM Customer Service
  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,516
    NEVER put your phone number in your posts. The forums are visible to the entire internet and we have no control over who may scavenge such information for malicious purposes.

    In order to send the factory reps personal information, click on their username link in their post header - this will bring up their profile with the email address to reach them. Make the email subject to the attention of the specific rep that replied to you in the forum.

    kcram - Pickups/Wagons/Vans+Minivans Host
  • lyresalyresa Posts: 1
    I also have a 2005 chevy colorado and I also have all the abs fault problems mentioned here. I got it down to where when the message appeared I would place it in park pump the brakes 3 times put on the emergency brakes then restart the truck. The light would go off and I'd be fine for a week or so. Did it yesterday again for the umpteenth time but this time when I shut off the truck I couldn't turn it back on.Key would not even turn, and yes I jiggled the steering wheel, and jumped the battery and a number of different things. Steering wheel was NOT locked, but the key would not turn at all, and I could not shift out of park either. Had to get a flatbed tow truck to tow me to the dealer. They had to actually go under the truck and yank a bar to release the gear into neutral just to winch it into the tow truck bed. My truck is still in the chevy dealer because they had to special order a new ignition, because they couldnt get it unlocked either, and is yanking the whole thing out making new keys as well. I got a $1900 quote, to fix this and the abs problem. No one can tell me the why of the abs fault or the why of the key not turning, just the how much it will cost to replace it. When we mentioned that we knew all about the abs fault problems that plague the colorados we were shrugged off and asked if we wanted it fixed or not. Of course we want it fixed and said so, but we also want to know why it seems to be such a common problem and why the dealer isn't taking any resposibility for it. :sick:
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,082
    lyresa,

    I apologize for the problems you are experiencing with your vehicle. Please keep me posted when the issue has been taken care of.

    Thank you,
    Caron, GM Customer Service
  • I too am having problems with my front end on my 2006 chevy colorado 3.5 liter. I am not very savvy with vehicle mechanics but my brakes grind (feels like gears grinding teeth in my brake pedal and it is audible also) sometimes when I come to a stop and the truck almost does not stop. This happens almost every time I hit a bump while applying the brakes.It is very scary when this happens because the brakes seem to stop doing their job!! My abs light has never come on, and in the past few days, my front passenger tire has developed a whine when I'm accelerating. The front end alignment on this truck is total crap too! i have been through 2 sets of tires and have 56000 miles on this truck! I do NOT have the money to fix this, especially if all of this is a recurring problem. What is the deal!!?!? I will be moving about 650 miles next week with a 6X12 trailer and hope I dont have any problems with this because I'll prolly end up over a cliff cuz Im moving from flat Louisiana to mountainous Tennessee! If I do, this is a written testimony of what prolly happened to me.
  • 1chief1chief Posts: 1
    I have an 05 Colorado. It has the 3.5 liter engine and standard shift. I am having ABS Traction Fault issues. The error displays in the odometer area displaying the fault for no apparent reason. It comes on and goes off when it wants. The truck loses power as the traction control kicks in when the error displays. It will go off when I turn off the truck, or sometimes when driving down the road. Is this situation dangerous to drive with?. I have a long trip to take in a couple weeks, can I drive this vehicle? I bought it new and was delivered with a crack/ chip in the windshield. The first year I had it, the heater core went bad, the third year the steering knuckle had to be replaced,the fourth year I had fuel emissions error issues. When I start the truck, sometimes it will stumble/hesitate when I put it in gear and start to accelerate. Now I have ABS Traction Fault issues. I wanted to keep this truck, but now I don't know. What do I do? Gm seems to have a lot of issues with these vehicles needing addressed.
  • n9cvn9cv Posts: 30
    I have the same issue. I took mine to my friendly and expensive GM dealer. After paying an expensive diagnostic fee I was told the ABS controller is shot because they can not talk to it at all with their scan tool. They wanted an exorbitant price for a new ABS controller so I left. I have been driving it that way ever since. I'd take it to another dealer but figure I'll just be out another $100 for another non-answer. I'm thinking it is a wheel sensor and not the controller. These have a poor record of failing wheel sensors. Mine works sometimes for hours and other times it fails in the first few minutes. I'd like to fix it before winter because I like the traction control in the snow.
  • HappsterHappster Posts: 30
    You've probably long since resolved your issue, but in the event others need an answer, I note that the ABS sensors in the front hubs are very tempermental. I replaced my rotors and had to remove the hub from the halfshaft. The sensor is press fit into the hub in the hole where the halfshaft installs. I dinged the sensor putting it back together-barely scratched the metal. But I ended up with the same issues you're having. Replaced it and it has been fine. It was only about $60 at Auto Zone, but a bit of a pain to install. You have to take the hub off the halfshaft. I cheated by unbolting the ball joints from the A-arms, which saved me from having the smash them with a separator. That usually ends badly, particularly for higher mileage trucks.
  • n9cvn9cv Posts: 30
    Thanks for the information. I'm was also guessing that the failure is in the front sensors. I have not pulled or looked at them yet. I have a 2WD so the half shafts are not a problem. My scanner does not do ABS so I was hoping to get it scanned to tell me what side to look at. After my wasted trip and money with GM getting it scanned I gave up on that approach. I'll concentrate on the front sensors when I go back to work on it again..

    Thanks.
  • I just got my 2004 Colorado Back from the shop for my ABS system! They had to replace both Hubs assemblies! It cost me $1,223.14 I had to replace my fan resistor two week ago! I did it myself so it was only $28.31! GM needs to do something about this!!!
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,082
    n9cv,
    I apologize for your frustrations. Can you please email me your VIN? I look forward to your response.
    Christina
    GM Customer Service
  • firefighter5firefighter5 Posts: 2
    edited July 2011
    My Vin # is IGCDT136048127479.... $ 1,223.14 for 2 front Hub assemblies! Now I have noticed that my right back up light has a short in it! All these things are happening at the same time!! I have never had so much trouble with a vehicle! I know it's a 2004 but It's just got 80,000 miles on it. I had to replace my catalytic converter at 37,000 miles and yes it was still under warranty but still.. Whats next? this is my only vehicle!!
  • I have had issues with my front breaks ever since I purchased my 2006 colorado new. The pad/rotors did not well correctly and I ended up with severe noise from the breaks which I had check out at the dealer and of course "there was not problem". I finally decided to replace the rotors and pad myself but because of the design of the front hubs it's not the easiest thing to do and I didn't want to damage the ABS sensor, so I finally just put on new pads to hold me over and reduce the noise issues. I did that last year and just this week my ABS Fault started showing up. Every time I touch the breaks the ABS kicks in and finally it goes to ABS Fault. As with every other story on here, as soon as I turn the truck off/on it resets and is fine for a little while. I have had to replace almost every exterior light on this truck 3 times. I have had to fix the Fan resistor as well. These trucks have some serious issues of which GM does not care to address.

    Now with the ABS Fault issue it seems that I'm only one in a long line of people having this issue. As with the others, I don't want to spend $1000+ getting my truck repaired. It only has 67k miles and if I had the money to get rid of the damn thing I would, but it's almost paid for and I can't afford to go buy a new truck.

    So would I be best to just get new ABS Sensors for the front wheels and change those out when I get the brakes done? I realize it would be good for GM to have this on record but at the same time it's very frustrating to spend $100 to get screwed even more...

    Also what's the best way to get the front hubs off so I can replace the rotors? i've seen a 2x4 trick that several people posted but everyone said to be careful about the ABS sensors. Guess that's not an issue if I'm going to replace them anyway.
  • buyusbuyus Posts: 4
    I replaced my hubs and ABS sensors last week and discovered that the passenger side ABS sensor had gotten road debris lodged in it causing damage to it. One thing the dealers won't tell you is that you can buy the just the sensors instead of spending the big money on the bearing hubs. They are 1/4 the cost of the hub assemblies. Great instructions at 355nation.net/forum. Just search "front hub replacement". You will need some heavy duty tools and this will help with sensor replacement too although it doesn't address that specifically.
    Hope this helps,
    Don
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