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Cadillac DeVille



  • I also have a 2005 DeVille with just over 50K. I bought it new and have had the DexCool changed
    twice. First time at 30K-3yrs old. Second just recently at 50K- 3yrs. Don't believe the 5yr- 150K stuff.
    The head gasket problem can still occur with good maintenance, but it will surely occur with bad
    It is also important to make sure the DexCool level is correct. Air in the system is bad !
    So far I have been fortunate. I have not really had problems with this car.
  • vicgoovicgoo Posts: 11
    I was in denial,that i have a head gasket issue,but it finally went to where i can,t drive it anymore after 3 months,luckilly i got home before it happened and not between New York and Boston.I lost more than half of what i put into the car-96 Deville.Someone that likes the car gave me a little under $600 for it,i was lucky because i heard it was worthless for it takes more to fix than it,s worth.Well this is my only and last Northstar until i can afford a 05 or newer model which i heard GM finally resolved that issue?For now i got a Riviera with GM,s bulletproof 3.8 motor!
  • oldfarmer50oldfarmer50 Posts: 6,019
    edited August 2011
    $10,000 sounds like baloney to me. I recently looked at a 97 STS 105,000 miles with the Northstar V8 blown head gasket. Mechanics estimate:$2200.
    Total engine replacement with 72,000 mile used motor: $3400.

    Someone is taking mom for a ride.

    2009 PT Cruiser, 2008 Eclipse, 1995 Mark VIII, 1988 GMC Van

  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Oldfarmer, I also thought this was out of hand. But googling around, I found a couple of other people with estimates in that area. I think this would be a new Northstar motor, maybe including heads, from Cadillac, and a Caddy dealer doing the labor.

    From what I've read about $3,000 is what the cost of a Timesert 'fix' for the headbolts. I don't think I would put $3,400 into a used motor, buying another potential headgasket problem. Especially if it was a 90's model Caddy. These are $3,000 cars, at the best.

    If I was caught up in this, I would try to find someone to do the Timesert fix.
  • oldfarmer50oldfarmer50 Posts: 6,019
    "...These are $3000 cars at best..."

    Edmunds valued the one I looked at as a $2700 car so you are dead on. Seller wanted $1500 so the figures just didn't add up. This was several months ago and the car is still on his lawn. I swear that last time I went by, there was a cardboard sign in the window which said: "FREE"

    Such a shame, the car was a beautiful gold color with creame interior. What was GM thinking designing the heads like that?

    2009 PT Cruiser, 2008 Eclipse, 1995 Mark VIII, 1988 GMC Van

  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    I can see a design problem showing up later. About the lowest milage I've read about was in the 40,000 mile range. There probably just wasn't enough testing to bring out the problem when the motor was developed.

    But, by 95, 96 models the problem seemed to be very obvious. And this Timesert company had developed the 'kit' to fix the problem, and Cadillac had service documents that specifically called for using the kit for the fix. The kit comes with a template that is bolted to a head with the old bolts. There are holes in the template that are used to overdrill and rethread all the bolt holes. A steel insert which cannot be screwed out, is screwed in, with Locktite. This supposed is a permanent fix. Timesert sells just the inserts if a shop already has the template from a previous job. Standard new headbolts are then used to put the head back on.

    Why Caddillac did not produce motors with steel inserts after it became a known problem is the big question.
  • I have a 99 Deville I bought cheap at a car auction. It had 2 blown head gaskets which at the dealer would have cost me about $4000 to repair. That is about the cost of a new engine. Bolivar is correct in the major part of that kind of repair is mostly labor. But if the heads are cracked due to excessive heat damage, then you are looking at replacing heads also. My mechanic told me i would be better off finding another engine. He found a wrecked Deville that had been rear ended at the wreck yard. The engine was still in pretty good shape and it cost about $400 and about that much to install in my car. A couple hundred bucks for a new radiator and I had a good running Caddy for less than a thousand.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    It's broken both rear window regulators in 3 days. Driver's window was replaced about a year ago.
  • rara4rara4 Posts: 2
    the heater never has worked that great but recently it stop blowing hot air all together i replaced thermostat but still blows nothing but cold air
  • If the fan is blowing but no heat is coming out, you might try replacing the relay. It's a cheap fix and you can do it yourself - very little to be lost if that isn't the problem, but if it is, it's quick & cheap.

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  • rara4rara4 Posts: 2
    which relay is it and where is it located
  • I don't know - you'd have to look it up in a repair manual. It's also something that should NOT be expensive to have done at a repair shop. That's the first thing they should check.

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  • aconesacones Posts: 21
    My '01 Cadi DeVille (base) w/75k miles has several OBD Codes (P0171,P0174,P0741,P0340).

    (P0171/P0174)- bank 1 & 2 system too lean; I have taken out the MAF sensor & cleaned it (did not look to be bad since all wires where in tact), next I plan on replacing the O2 sensors. My question regarding this is- how many up/downstream O2 sensors does my '01 DeVille have & where are they located? And is it something I should be able to replace myself?

    (P0340)- Cam sensor condition; is replacing the camshaft position sensor something I should be able to do myself? Where is it located?

    (P0741)- TCC solenoid failure; same issues/questions?

    I am simply looking for some help/good advice. I am not a mechanic, but after the dealer wanted nearly $600 to replace a window regulator & I took a shot it myself; completing the job for $65.90 and 1.5 hours I'm willing to try my hand at anything with this car that doesnt involve taking the engine out. Also, I am replacing my own brake pads & rotors (if needed) since the shop wanted $700 for that job- my question regarding this job is if I only replace the front brake pads, do I still need to bleed the rear brakes as well? Thanks in advance for your assistance & look forward to hearing from you all soon.

    A. Cones
    SFC, USA
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    I think you might have 4 sensors, one before and one after the cat on both exhausts.

    A couple of causes of lean. The big rubber connector from the air cleaner to the throttle body isn't sealed well on both ends. Someone pulling on this to get to the air filter didn't reset it well. And, there is another rubber boot between the throttle body and the intake. Unburned fuel and general back flow of fuel after shutdown can pool in this area and rot the bottom of this rubber boot. You can feel the bottom of this and fill the 'soft' area. An air leak here will cause a lean condition. I think its a pretty big job to replace this boot. Actually any air leak past the MAF will cause a lean fuel situtation. It might not be an O2 sensor problem at all.

    The crank sensors (there are two of them) are above the oil filter and can be gotten to and replaced somewhat easily. I'm not sure about the cam sensor, but I think its on the right, front of the motor (front of right head). This is the area right in front of the passenger area, since the motor sits crossways. I think the cam sensor is a [non-permissible content removed], it's an almost flat screw in thing and there is just almost no room there to get a wrench and hand in there.

    P0741 is a tranny solonid code, I think. There are two shift solonids inside that tranny, an A and B solonid, that can be gotten to and replaced from dropping the pan. Failure of these usually causes shift problems. If this code goes with the lockup solonid (locks up the 'overdrive' or torque converter), then you have what I've seen called the '$40 part buried $2,000 deep in the tranny'. This cannot be gotten to without pulling the motor and tranny. You need to research the P740, 741, 742 codes and see which is which.

    If you are going to work much on this Northstar and its tranny, you need the Factory Service Manual. New one can be bought at , they print manuals for most manufactors. It's not cheap, probably abouot $175 plus shipping. You should first look on eBay for a used one. It won't be cheap either, but less than a new one. Only buy a Factory manual, the others are not worth anything. You could probably buy a 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003 and the mechanical stuff would be the same, only interior parts might be different. You will probably find DVDs for sale for about $30. I've never looked at one of these, they might be very functional for repair, and maybe not. Of course, if the info in these is good it have to be bootlegged from the factory manual or ripped from the factory DVD manual. Anyway, you need a factory manual to do much at all.
  • aconesacones Posts: 21

    I've read your post on other forums and have come to truly respect your advice and experience on these issues, thank you very much for the insight. The tranny issue really concerns me though, guess I will simply do whatever work I can get accomplished myself and then send the car off to the shop. Thanks again.

    SFC A.C
  • aconesacones Posts: 21
    OK, I've located the camshaft sensor and your right- it is definitely NOT easy to get to. Wondering if you think it's a good ideal to remove the coolant resevoir to gain better access and a much needed angle down towards the camshaft sensor? Your advice is greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

    SFC A.C
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    I've never dug around there. The tank might rather easy to remove, but it does have 3 or 4 hoses on it, right? Can you see the sensor, sure the wire is not un-attached?

    Does it look like someone has been working in this area before? The coil pack for the rear bank of cylinders is back there, and coils do go out (Had the front one replaced on our 2005). If someone has messed up the wiring loom there, or gotten it pinched, or even gotten the wiring miss-routed, this might be your problem. I think I've read that the sensor wire to the tranny lockup goes thru here and a crimp, cut, or even if the wiring is not routed correctly in regards to the ignition wiring can cause error codes to be set.

    I've done some minor mechanical work - changed belts and hoses, replaced window motor, etc, but I am overall 'afraid' of Northstars. The blown head gaskets and the lockup solonid are real horrors to me. My wife wants to drive these big tanks, and I try to keep an extended warranty on them and get rid of them when warranty expires.

    I've had 3 Devilles, and read a lot of Caddy forums. So, I'm more of a bystander than a hands on person about these things. But, I've read about a lot of issues, and when my old brain is working somewhat, I try to repeat what I've read in the past.
  • aconesacones Posts: 21
    Once again, thanks for the advice. Yes, there are a few hoses connected to the coolant reservoir. I don't think I can gain access to the Cam Sensor from under the vehicle, and there is NO room to work (or see) from the top without removing the reservoir. I will definitely take your advice and check the wiring (once I can actually see it). Either way, at this point I believe I will still replace the Cam Sensor if for nothing else besides the personal satisfaction of knowing that I did not pay someone else to do it. Thanks again, I really appreciate your advice.

    SFC A.C
  • temj12temj12 Posts: 451
    I am reading your post on the '01 Cadi DeVille with interest. I helped my dad find and buy an '01 DeVille. The car was driven by an older man, therefore it had not been abused. It had 68,000 miles. He loved the car, but within 2,000 miles he has found that it uses a quart of oil every 700 miles. The power steering pump went bad. His neighbor, a mechanic, told him the cars were made poorly and were not any good. Since your mileage is close to his, it seems you also have a lot going bad. I have an '09 CTS and my Cadillac dealer service supervisor told me that the '99 to '04 had a problem with oil usage.
  • aconesacones Posts: 21

    My DeVille , like your fathers, also has very low miles for its age and I too have had some oil usage issues. One problem was the electrical-mechanical connection (sorry, I forget the name of the part) was actually leaking oil and causing my oil warning light to constantly illuminate along with that irritating beeping signal. About a week ago I checked the oil and my dip stick came up bone dry even though my percentage read 68% inside the car. Just today when I was under the vehicle I noticed that the panels under the car had several beads of oil so I'm probably going to have to replace some seals in the near future. As long as I've ever known Cadillac's have been notorious for burning oil at an accelerated pace. I'm not sure if my issues are just due to GM quality or my own neglect of the car over the years as it sat still while I was deploying back and forth to Iraq over the years?
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