Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Cadillac DeVille

1119120121123125

Comments

  • aconesacones Posts: 21
    Update- I was able to replace the camshaft position sensor on the DeVille today and the process went much smoother by simply removing the three screws and electrical connection to the coolant reservoir. I did not have to remove any hoses as I just positioned the reservoir up and out of the way so that I could get to the Cam Sensor with relevant ease. Next on the to-do-list is the EBCM (I have DTC C1214 & C1248)- any words of advice for me on this one?
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Northstars that 'have not been abused', ie just puttered around in, many will have high oil usage. This is actually a high performance motor and needs driven like that. Even high speed interstate runs will not keep the oil usage from coming on. What happens is the rings will carbon up and stick. Then, it uses oil. It may also carbon up on the top of the cylindar and you will hear a tick like a stuck lifter. Most of the time it's carbon, not a lifter.

    What you need to do is get on a road with no traffic, get the car rolling about 5 mph (no need to start from a dead start), and floor the car. Keep you foot in it, let it hit redline for two gears, you are going to be going about 80mph or so. Let the throttle off and let it 'coast' down. Run it up about 3 or 4 times like this. If done during the day, you are going to see a lot of black smoke come out of the exhaust. Many times this will break the rings loose and oil usage will be reduced. You need to do this about every 6 months or so.

    Use of premium gasoline will make stuck rings worse than regular usage.

    My 1995 went from a little oil usage to instantly using a quart about every 600 miles. A few Wide Open Throttle (WOT) runs dropped it back to about a quart in 2/3000 miles.

    Of course, you want the oil to be full when you do this. Something I've also found with Northstars, they take 7 1/2 quarts on an oil/filter change. This leaves the oil about a half quart low on the dipstick. Don't add more oil, don't add all of that 8th quart. If you do the motor will just quickly pull a half quart thru the PCV valve and burn it. On a change, use the 7 1/2 as specified, and leave it a little low on the stick.
  • aconesacones Posts: 21
    As usual, you have provided some really good insight. I will definitely do my best to get out on some WOT runs (wish I was back in Germany for this). I only use premium gas in my Cadillac and I've never expected that this could actually increase my oil consumption.
  • aconesacones Posts: 21
    How do I know if I have active brake control or not? I'm trying to order a new EBCM but cannot because I do not know where to look for this information. Thanks in advance for your assistance GM Forum.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    The cover over the spare tire has a sticker with all the option codes on the car. One problem, my 2005 has a cover from a Buick?????????? Life and buying a used car is like a box of chocolates.

    You are going to have to do some googling to find the code for this. My guess, unless you have the top of the line model, I doubt your Deville has this.

    It's got ABS and Traction control, but I doubt Active Brake Control was available on a 2001.
  • aconesacones Posts: 21
    Bolivar,

    Thanks a lot, I looked and my car does not have a sticker stating anything on the cover of the spare tire, therefore, I will be ordering the one without ABC. Do you happen to know if these EBCMs come pre-programmed if ordered directly from GM, if not, is it more of a hassle (mechanical and financial) to try and do this job myself? Thanks in advance-

    SFC A.C
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    You looked on the bottom of the cover, right? You might also check inside the glove box, the sticker might be there.

    Not sure about the BCM. Some of the 'modules' have to be programmed with the VIN of the vehicle, and you need a Tech II to do this. These cost $2,000+. A dealer could do this if needed, but it's going to cost you.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    I've got the code software that came with a cheap Code Reader I bought off Amazon. Following are what this software shows for the two codes you listed.
    These don't give much info at all about the codes. You should google these codes and there might be much more info available.

    Were these 'Current' or 'History' codes. With Current you should have a Check Engine Light on. If History, these could be some time in the past.

    C1214 System Relay Contact or Coil Circuit Open
    C1248 EBCM Turned The Red Brake Warning Indicator ON

    You do know how to manipulater the Up/Down, Reset, Display (not sure exactly which they are. On my 2005 these are 3 buttons on right side on the dash) and display all the code that are in there? One of the neat things about a Cadillac. If you don't, you need to google 'cadillac code display' or something like that. There are several sites that have the full instructions about how you can put your instrument panel in a diagnostic mode and see all the set codes, and you can reset all these codes.

    I would consider resetting all the codes, drive the car a few days, or until the Check Engine light appears again, if you have it. This will then give you Current codes that are giving problems lately.

    And if you pull the battery cable, and reinstall it, Cadillacs are real bad about setting a sh*t load of codes, incorrectly. The voltage surges hitting the computer when the cable goes back many time will set a lot of invalid codes.
  • aconesacones Posts: 21
    Bolivar,

    Thanks for the insight. I believe the codes I have are current because after I replaced the Cam Sensor my check engine light cleared along with all other codes NOT related to the brakes. My brake lights (ABS, traction control, BRAKES) all remain illuminated on the dash. I will definitely look up the tricks of the trade for the cadillac DTCs but my auto scanner was unable to clear these codes. All signs point to the EBCM which I have found for $486 brand new (dealer wanted $940 just for the part and no telling how much for the labor). I will most likely take it to the dealer for programming however since they've quoted me $110 even though I know thats pretty high for a simple programming (but they have the tools for that & I don't). As always, thanks for your assistance with these issues- I'm slowly turning myself into a fairly decent novice mechanic.

    SFC A.C
  • Hi, this is my first post. I have a 1970 deville convertible that I am restoring and would be interested in knowing where can I purchase new interior panels for this car. I have searched but have had no luck. I would like to keep this cady original. Please help.
  • aconesacones Posts: 21
    Baretos,

    Try CaddyDaddy.com- good luck with the restoration project.

    SFC A.C
  • aconesacones Posts: 21
    Just replaced the headlamps on my '01 DeVille and there is now a gap between the bottom of the headlamp and where it should meet the front bumper panel. Anyone know what I should use to seal that gap (clear silicone, caulking etc.)?

    As for the other work I was doing on the Cadi- I saved +4k over shop costs by doing the work myself (Window regulator, Cam Sensor, MAF Sensor, Idle Air Control, Outer Tie Rods(2), Brakes and rotors all around and flushing the system, front hub assemblies & the EBCM). Two different estimates quoted me $4200 and $4500 and neither of these included the brake work (additional $700). The biggest portion was related to replacing the EBCM which the dealer part cost was $940 and nearly as much for labor- I was able to send the EBCM off to be re-built (only took two days) for $150 with a 5 year warranty (dealer part had a 1 year). In total, I spent $600 (excluding tools) and gained a lot of knowledge (thanks in part to feedback from you all on this site).

    I'd like to especially thank Bolivar for your assistance through this process, your advice has been extremely helpful and I appreciated every bit of it.

    SFC A.C
  • I have a 98 Deville with 90,000 miles and I started to lose coolant, took it in to a dealer and they said it was a blown head gasket. I think you are right about needing a class action suit with Cadillac. All I ever read about the Northstar engine is that it is suppose to be the best, now at 90,000 the engine blows...that is not right. Anyone have any suggestions? It is a very expensive problem on a very expensive car!
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Sell it to salvage. A 98 isn't worth a head gasket repair.
  • aconesacones Posts: 21
    Just wondering if replacing the valve gasket covers on my '01 DeVille (base) w/ 76,000mi on it is a job I can or should do myself, or if I should pay the $875 (including replacing all 8 spark plugs) is worth it? If it is a job I can do with my moderate DIY skill set does anyone have any tricks of the trade to share with me? Thanks in advance.

    SFC A.C
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    The back 4 spark plugs will be quite a chore to replace.

    Why are you replacing the valve cover gaskets? I've not heard much of anyone having leaks there....
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Just to keep everyone on this forum informed.... Back in time I've related the various repairs on my wife's 2005 Cadillac Deville, which now has a little less than 61,000 miles.

    Just replaced the window regulator in the passenger window.

    This now makes the 4th of 4 window regulators replaced in the last 20 months. Hopefully, with this one, there are now no more remaining to break.

    Obviously a terrible design fault, and something that makes Cadillac a lot of money in replacement parts. And labor for your local dealer. The part is something like $250 or so.

    What I understand, the failure is on a plastic cable that pulls the window up and down. Actually, it probably moves the 'X' shaped regulation skeleton. As I understand, the cable breaks where it is attached to a metal connector. Cable isn't replaceable, the whole regulator assembly is replaced. Guess we are lucky the motor isn't also part of this. I watched the parts man take forever finding the regulator to order. I asked if there was a problem, and he said he was looking to see if the motor was included. I said on the other 3 that failed, the motor wasn't included, just get a right front window regulator ordered in.

    Oh, and looking at the receipt, it looks like something called a 'locking regulator' might have been replaced. I'm going to call and ask about this. The only problem I knew about was the lock/unlock button on the passenger door was 'slow'. Sometimes had to push multi times or hold it down. Only know this because I ride in the car mostly, and the wife has it programmed so the only door that opens when she puts it in park is the drivers door. Keeps the roving bad guys from jumping into her car when she stops it.... According to her.

    Another $50 deductable for this/these repair/s. For all the things that have broken, I'm probably still underwater on this extended warranty deal...
  • WEll here is latest on my '05 Deville,with 82,000,1)rear brake line rusted out,parts & labor$455.,rf wheel bearing parts& labor $471., oil leak, fr. axle seal leaking $168. parts & labor. oil pan leak around the pan bolts,parts & labor332. my ext. warr. ended at 75k. ouch :cry:
  • gmcustsvcsarahgmcustsvcsarah Posts: 1,964
    bolivar,

    I'm sorry to read that you have had so many difficulties with the window regulators in your Deville. Was all of this done with one of our dealerships? Please contact us at socialmedia@gm.com if you should have further difficulties with the window regulators.

    All the best,
    Sarah
    GM Customer Service
  • gmcustsvcsarahgmcustsvcsarah Posts: 1,964
    How is everything running after getting these repairs done, chrisptown1?

    All the best,
    Sarah
    GM Customer Service
Sign In or Register to comment.