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Cadillac DeVille

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  • According to the owners manual, the DIC on my 2002 DeVille can be programmed to display my name instead of "Driver No 1". The manual does not describe how to do this. It says to see your dealer for assistance. Does anyone know how to do the name programming?
  • The plastic (see-through) plate on my radio is smudged with dirt on the back side. As a result, some of the digits displayed in the radio are not clear. Does anyone know if this plate (about 1.5" x 6") can be snapped out from the front to clean?
  • mlm4mlm4 Posts: 401
    The owner's manual is correct, you can program a name and you need to have the dealer do it. It requires the Tech2 diagnostic scan tool. You may have to explain this to the service writer if you get a funny look from them.

    Hope you are enjoying your new DTS; let us know your impressions.

    BTW, if you do get your name programmed, make sure you check it before you leave the dealer. Sometimes they don't do it right and the name is not centered or has extra garbage characters (like "||||") after it.
  • HenryHenry Posts: 1,106
    Hello guys, I am just poping in from the Auora board to ask a quick question.

    It has come to our attention that there is an issue with the dipstick on the caddie not reading full unless you put between 8.5 and 9.0 quarts of oil in the car. This is true, even though the manual says that it only takes 7.5 quarts of oil.

    Does anyone know if there is a TSB on this issue and, if so, what the reference number is??

    Thanks you,

    Henri
  • sonjaabsonjaab Posts: 1,057
    You are correct ....the V-8 Northstar takes almost 8.5? qts. of oil WITH filter. Don't
    have my owners manual handy tho.
    There was a issue sometime back about the dip
    stick being wrong. You will prob. have to search
    back thru this thread to find it !
    Not sure how much the Olds Shortstar holds tho !

    Its FUNNY tho my last 2 Northstars I have to remind the oil change place 8 qts. with filter !
    Dummies a few times only put in 5.........
  • HenryHenry Posts: 1,106
    I have the Baby Northstar v8 4.0, not the v6 shortstar.

    Your owners manual will tell you that the car takes 7.5 quarts of oil. If you put in 8.0 even , no big deal. The only reason you are puting in 8.5 is because the dipstick is off.
  • I noticed a small spot of oil on the garage floor that turned out to be caused by the halfcase leaking. My Cadillac dealer also advises that the front motor mount is busted. The cost for repair is $1767.77 plus tax. The vehicle was bought new and only has 51000 miles. According to the dealer this is a common problem on the Northstar engine. Not a glaring testimonial for Cadillac. Has anyone else had this problem?
  • I failed to list the model year is 1997. Sorry
  • carnutpacarnutpa Posts: 42
    I bet your warranty ran out at 50,000 miles. Here is a good case for paying a few extra bucks when you buy the car for the 7 year / 100,000 mile warranty.
  • I have a 1990 Cadillac Deville. Experiencing the following problem:

    Car begins to start, turns over, then cuts out after 2-3 seconds. Sometimes security light comes on, sometimes not. Sometimes car runs fine. Service engine/vehicle light(s) not on. Just replaced the ignition. Car is equipped with anti-theft ignition system (chip in key).

    Can anyone help? Thank you in advance.
  • sonjaabsonjaab Posts: 1,057
    Are the keys the original ones that came with the
    car? If so the chip may be worn also or not
    making good contact inside the new ignition
    switch. Or did they give you new keys ? If
    you using old keys in a new switch I guess it
    may be your problem . You will prob.
    will have to bite the bullet and get a new key
    too. They are quite pricey....My girl lost a
    few sets ! Good luck and keep us posted
    or post over too http://www.gmforums.com
    A Caddy tech named Dan-O hangs there and prob.
    can help ya out ...geo
  • lemkolemko Posts: 15,196
    ...about $30. I had a parking lot attendant mess up the chip on the ignition key for my 1994 DeVille and they were unable to start the car. Fortunately, I had a second one with me.
  • sonjaabsonjaab Posts: 1,057
    30 bucks ? Man when I went to Caddy for my 90
    keys they wanted 70 bucks ! Goood thing i knew
    a guy who worked in the body shop....I got a discount and paid about that much ! They were
    for my 90...Don't think my 96 had a chip in key.
    MY 02 is running fine ! How about your Seville ?
    ........geo
  • bj1ssbj1ss Posts: 2
    Hello All,

     The Cadillac Deville is quite a car! Last night in the snow while I was driving to college the car in front of me spun around, there was ice and snow on the road. But I felt the tail of the Deville come out a little then it said "Stability system active" or something like that and I got control back and didn't spin! I'm 19 and the Deville is my mom's car, I don't use my '96 Caprice LT1 in the snow, RWD. I also like the back-up system. It's quite a car!
  • oldsman01oldsman01 Posts: 1,203
    What year and model Deville are you driving?
  • fjb3486fjb3486 Posts: 1
    My 02 DeVille vibrates on smooth roads at speeds above 45mph. Dealer has replaced 6 tires, 2 of which were pre-screened at factory, balanced the tires more times than I can count, turned the brake rotors, and replaced the front control arms. It still vibrates, but GM says this is within normal performance. The dealer is of no help. Purchased new in Oct 02, now have 4300 mi. Anyone have this problem or a solution. I'm ready to sell and buy foreign.
  • bj1ssbj1ss Posts: 2
    2002 Deville.
  • mlm4mlm4 Posts: 401
    Owners of various late-model Aurora and Bonneville have had similar vibration problems, including me with a 2000 Bonneville. Your story is familiar. It's hard to say what the problem is, other than the fact that the suspension is extremely sensitive to any imbalances (GM has admitted as much). Those imbalances could be caused by the tires, wheels, control arms, tie-rod ends, brake disks, debris, hubs, etc. I've had the dealer re-balance twice as well as match mount the tires to the wheels, but still have the problem. The tires have not yet been replaced, although I'm not sure replacing them with the same make and model of tire will ensure the problem is corrected. Some owners have tried other brands of tires and had success. One owner reported that the wheel stud runout was out of spec (but not by much) and replacing the hubs fixed the problem. A few hearty folks have been successful in having their vehicles repurchased by GM under the lemon laws. It is frustrating but there does not seem to be an easy fix.
  • hydra2hydra2 Posts: 114
    No vibration in my 02 dts. 6700 miles with no problems, rides fine at all speeds, but it is a little thirsty at the gas pump.

    You might want to have the dealer check to see if your wheels (the alloys, not the tires) are within spec. Maybe your dealer will swap the wheels off of a demo deville temporarily to help rule out a defective wheel as a possible cause. You might also try changing the air pressure in your tires up and down between 28 and 34 psi. to see if you notice a difference. Also buy an accurate (read expensive)tire gauge to make sure you have equal tire pressure all around. Don't just rely on the tire monitor in the car.

    Hope some of this helps. Keep us posted on your results.
  • sonjaabsonjaab Posts: 1,057
    Hydra 2 is right !.....Have the dealer swap the tires and wheels off a new one to see if thats the problem. Insist if necessary but be nice!
    My 01 GM truck had the "Shakerado" problem before I signed my name on paper! Told dealer SWAP wheels
    off another truck. They did...Shake and vibes. GONE! Signed papers...Drove home HAPPY !
    My 02 Deville is just fine with no problems either.....................geo

    BTW: My truck had Firestone tires....Looked at the spare it was a
    Goodyear! They swapped a FULL set of stones off another truck!
    Seems they were on another truck with shake and vibe. probs. !!
    It PAYS to fully test drive before you buy.......
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,370
    Car talk show by mechanic in Cincy has discussed force balancing as a method
    of checking for tire involvement in this easy-to-shake chassis. It balances based
    on how the tire rolls and crushes to eliminate the effect of an out-of-round tire.
    The tire appears round on a balancer, but when under weight does not roll round,
    due to different amounts of displacement under the weight.
    He feels that's what's happening with the tires.]
    I pray that the tires on my LeSabre that are Michelin won't have this problem
    as I put a few thousand miles on it...
  • sonjaabsonjaab Posts: 1,057
    Years back when I worked in a tire shop. They had
    a on the car balance machine. A ring would fit on
    the rim lip and you would put a spinner machine
    in front of the wheel to spin it. The center of the ring had 4 small knobs stacked on it. 2 green,
    2 red (from old memory now). One would add weight
    one would subtract. You put a paper towel on fender and would add or subtract weight to make
    the tire, rim, hub, etc spin SMOOTH ! A mark on the ring would tell you where to put the weight
    and how much. Spin again to make sure of no shake.
    But now I guess with all these FWD cars not to
    mention the fancy wheels if that machine would work on them ! My bud who owns a small shop has
    one. Must be 25 years old ! I think Hunter made it. I used it on my old hot rods to balance out
    my cragar rims and tires !.........geo
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,370
    I had used those at one car tire store. They fixed problems back in the 70s that bubble balancing at Sears for Michelins wouldn't fix. They worked really well. The radio car mechanic had a call where that had been used with shaking on a large SUV. It verified that the off-the-car computer balancing was good and the hub and rotors and rotating parts on the car weren't causing the shake felt in the car (truck). The mechanic then suggested finding a shop with the force balance system to check the tires and wheels.

    Ideally the tires shouldn't be a problem as far as crush height if they're good quality and hold up for mileage without changing. That's why I've always liked Michelins (insert brand name here that you've had good service from in the past). But I had a 73 Ford that seemed really soft in the wheel control and was really sensitive to balance at highway speeds -- almost like what is described here.
  • g1994stsg1994sts Posts: 26
    I blame the ridiculous electric shocks. My point Is that inexpensive cars equipped with conventional shock absorbers dont have this problem, older or newer. I could barrel down a highway in a $12,000 Daewoo and experience a smooth ride. I'm totally disgusted with my '94 R.S.Suspension equipped STS. Ride quality is only marginal when the road surface is absolutely smooth. These just float along, sloppy gello like handling, some not very old Cadillacs are a joke. I want to trade It in for something non GM, I'm afraid their going to laugh at me.
  • oldsman01oldsman01 Posts: 1,203
    You might want to check out the elaborate suspension systems on some high end BMWs and MBs. It's called progress my friend. Using your logic, all cars should still have coil springs in the front and live axles in the rear.
  • marsha7marsha7 Posts: 3,676
    anticipated longevity???...one possibility I am considering is buying a 2 year old DTS, assuming anywhere from 20K to 40K miles...I drive about 30K miles per year, so a large cruiser may be just the thing for me...can I expect a Caddy to reach 100K miles without self destructing???... what about 150K miles???...if I buy it with 40K, will I wear it out in 2 years, still owing big bucks on the loan, or can these cars last as long as Mercedes, et al are reported to last (like 250K miles)...I consider the DTS as it is sporty (bucket seats, floor shifter) yet should place less wear and tear on my lower back (assuming that it has an adjustable lumbar support...does it?)...am I crazy, should I consider this, or move onto a used E-series or something else???
    Thanks for any thoughts.
  • oldsman01oldsman01 Posts: 1,203
    I think 100K or even 150K would be no problem for a Deville. I'd be curious to see if a modern day Mercedes will go 250K myself. You should be able to get a pretty good price on a 2 year old Deville, although a DTS may be a bit harder to find as those aren't as common. I'm still toss around the idea of either a new CTS or Saab 9-3 or a 2 year old STS. After spending a week with a rental SLS last summer, I can tell you Northstar power is habit forming:)
  • sonjaabsonjaab Posts: 1,057
    YEA.....All my Caddies went to 100k plus without
    a hitch from new ! And I run them hard too! But I guess I have been lucky tho. A 2 yo used Caddy is a good buy ! But I would also get a extended GM
    warranty also! In my 100k miles all I've had to do is change the oil, 2 sets of plugs, 2 sets of
    brakes and tires ! All done very cheaply, unlike my sis and bro-in law who HAVE to have a BMW or
    Benz and CRY about expensive PM costs let alone if anything breaks while outta warranty. But my 96 did need those pricey front electric struts $2500 bucks at the
    end so I traded it and got a new 02 instead....geo
  • Last month I bought a 99 Deville with the 4.6 Northstar. It had 37K miles when I bought it. I love this car. It handles so much tighter than my old 95 Deville that now has 170K. I've driven it about 2000 miles and the "Check Oil Level" light prompted me to discover that it was down about 2 quarts. The car doesn't drip or smoke. I've read many of the previous posts about higher mileage cars having this problem. Since it was still (barely) under factory warranty, I was able to purchase an extended warranty from my local dealer (I did not buy the car from him), but I am reluctant to take it in just to check this out. In the absence of other symptoms, I guess I should just accept this annoyance, or should I?
    Herschel
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    At all milages.

    Mine used oil at 20,000.

    I've seen messages on here about oil usage under 10,000 miles.
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