Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Cadillac DeVille

1525355575883

Comments

  • beach15beach15 Posts: 1,305
    This new '06 Deville's camo is pretty light, making the new front end pretty clear. The basic body "core" is the same, but I think the new sharper nose and tail will blend very well:

     

    http://www.cheersandgears.com/06_dts_spy_large.jpg
  • Just a couple of things. I love my '04 DeVille. No problems of any kind. In regards to regular gas; I use it sometimes, and it runs fine, but whenever I put premium, it has more zip, more giddy-up go, and also, I have noticed a 1 mile per gal. improvement in gas mileage, so the extra cost of premium is well worth it, in my opinion.

     

    I have had my tires rotated at Discount Tire, as I do with all of my vehicles. They know nothing about resetting the air pressure sensors, so I am living with that little nuisance. No way will I take it to the dealer every time I need rotating, which I do every 5,000 miles.
  • Appreciate very much the info on carbon build up, and soon I will have the chance on a trip to try the WOT suggestions -- which make good sense to me. I do use premium, not regular. Car always seems to have more zip with premium. Anyway, sounds like this is a problem with more than my car. Otherwise I have no complaints, and don't really want to part with it -- but I've felt that way now with my previous 3 Devilles, so maybe some year soon I'll move on up. But not for a while. Thanks again. I don't post often, but I love this board.
  • I wonder if the 2006 DTS will be at the Dallas Auto Show the first week of March. Anybody know about what shows the DTS will be at?
  • keng1keng1 Posts: 3
    I have the same problem with resetting the tire monitors. I hope somebody can tell us how to reset them.

    HELP AND MERRY CHRISTMAS !!
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Tire Monitors:

     

    I've seen the instructions, but since I don't have that late a model Cadillac, I didn't save it anywhere.

     

    The dealer uses a special shaped magnet, but I think any strong magnet that will get down around the valve stem would work.

     

    The 'trick' is, you have to push some combination of buttons, or turn ignition on and off, or some such thing. Then work quickly around the car starting left front, RF,RR, LR, slipping the magnet down over the stem. Have to get this done for each tire in 20 seconds or some such.

     

    Keep searching, this info is out there. You might google 'Cadillac monitor reset' or some such combination and see what turns up.
  • Mine doesn't change regardless of the amount of air pressure. I still get 26 psi for my left rear tire on the information screen but my pressure gauge reads 30. This is for a base '03 Deville. Guess I'll head to the dealer tomorrow.
  • I have a 2000 DeVille. When making a right hand turn, I hear a knock when turning the wheel. I checked the TSB board and the problem was posted there so someone else has had this problem as well. I've had two Front End experts look at the car to no avail. Does anyone know a remedy for this?
  • I have a 2000 chevy Impala with a similar problem. A knocking noise when the wheel was turned all the way to either side. They replaced the steering shaft under warranty, and when the problem returned, then the fix was to grease the universal joint in the steering shaft. I don't know if the Deville has the same or similar steering shaft, but you might mention it to the dealer, especially if you have an extended warranty.
  • I own a 2004 Deville and right rear tire is generally 1 psi less than the others on the dashboard monitors. I check pressures manually about once every six weeks just to be sure. My tires come out the same on manual pressure monitor. Should also point out that I had my tires rotated shortly after buying the car and in my case there was no need to go through dealer reset. May be that Deville corrected this extra step for 2004 models although my owners manual talked about the reset at dealer procedure.
  • Follow up. The dealer gave me a copy of the descriptive page covering tire monitors. When the monitors are not working a message appears. Tire pressure is electronically checked every 60 seconds so if you get (for example) 26 psi and then add air and check the message you are still going to get 26 psi until you drive somewhere or allow the system to monitor the new pressure after 60 seconds. I finally gave up and manually put 30 psi all around and disregard the messages that say 27-29 psi. I guess if I blow a tire I'll know it. It is amazing how I successfully drove for so many years without Traction Control, ABS, tire monitors, etc etc etc. Just lucky I guess.
  • boomer1bboomer1b Posts: 348
    LOL !!!!! I like that one.........

     

    BREM......Did you get your cruise issue worked out ?

     

    I took my 03 in for a emission recall last week.

    They replaced a sensor and another part....

     

    I had them check the cruise also but got the "NO problem found" printed on the work order......
  • Have not taken the car in for the fourth time and continue to live with the unstable cruise control. While aggravating it will tend to

    maintain speed once set and stabilized a few times. This is one tough problem to resolve because of the intermittent nature of the problem. One time fine, next time unstable. Recently, I pressed set button at 28 MPH, green cruise set light came on and the car than slowed to 22 MPH and the cruise light went out. If I could get it to do that at the dealership, could probably resolve the glitch in the system. I will for sure post here if and when the problem gets resolved. Many thanks for your continuing interest.
  • Bravo for you, very well said! It would be nice if all this hi tech stuff they put on these cars was a little more reliable. Many years ago I owned a Plymouth Acclaim, it had none of these features (ABS, Traction Control, Tire Monitors, etc) and got me around fine, just a little noisy and underpowered. To be sure I like all the extra bells and whistles but wish problems were easily diagnosed and corrected. Cadillac needs to do a better job in this regard.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    28 MPH?

     

    A few years back, the owners manual on a car of mine specifically said it would not work under something like 40MPH.

     

    The new controls, with more electronics, might be able to function at slow speeds. But why would anyone want cruise at a speed like this?
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,269
    >The new controls, with more electronics, might be able to function at slow speeds. But why would anyone want cruise at a speed like this?

     

    Cops. I occasionally set it in areas so I don'thave to be alert.
  • The owners manual specifically states that the cruise control will function at 25 MPH and over.

    This was also true in my 98 Deville. I use slow speed cruise on lightly travelled roads when there is not much traffic around and I am looking out for deer and other wild life. Since I wear glasses it helps not to have to glance at the dash as much. This worked well in my 98 Deville and previous cars but not on this car due to the instability of the system. It is particularly unstable at lower speeds but has also lost as much as seven MPH at a set speed of 55 MPH.
  • sls002sls002 Posts: 2,788
    My cruise control (2002 Seville LS) works fine at speeds above 25, as I have set it at 27 MPH in city driving to maintain speed on a downhill section of roads while in 2nd gear. Obviously bremertong's cruise control does not work. He had the opportunity to talk with a factory representative and declined. As far as I am concerned, you (bremertong) simply are not interested in getting this fixed.
  • I have talked with GM customer service ( Detroit) about the problem six times and been to the dealership four times, how much is enough? The system does work is just defective in getting to the desired set speed. As I understand it the factory representative is at the dealership and or GM. So I have probably talked to more than one factory representative. While I am interested in getting the problem fixed I have other things to do and will pick this up again when the time permits. Meantime the system is operable but just needs to be tweaked. No car I have ever owned has been perfect and this one is no exception. I have however been disappointed in the failure of GM to diagnose and fix this problem.
  • sls002sls002 Posts: 2,788
    The dealer should give you a vehicle to use while they fix this. Since you have discussed this with high level customer service people, do they have additional ideas for fixing it? As I recall, the cruise control module was replaced. Obviously that was not the problem, but was the obvious first try. Since the problem is intermittent, the dealers service people won't be able to tell if anything they do fixes it.

     

    The system does not need "Tweaked". The cruise module is getting some sort of spurious signal. Either the wiring to the module is faulty or the buttons (most likely the set/resume) on the steering wheel are bad.

     

    I would keep after the dealer to get it fixed, getting a loaner or rental car (at GM's expense) to use while they work on it. At some point they will have to either get it fixed or say that they can't. When they give up, you ask for your money back. But at this point, you have already let things slide. I doubt that you can invoke the Lemon Law now.....
  • sls002sls002 Posts: 2,788
    I have looked back through the posts to refresh my memory of your cruise control problems. You are coming up on 6 months since this problem was related here. I note that this was a "used" car when you bought it. I will suggest that probably the previous owner dumped it because the cruise control did not work and perhaps was not fixable...

     

    Unless this was program car...
  • I thought that Cruise didn't work under 45 mpg -at least that's the way it used to be. I've sometimes had better luck by turning cruise off then on and trying again. If it drops a couple of miles before it catches it is easy to hit the resume a couple of times to boost the speed up. I guess even an inaccurate cruise control is better than no cruise control at all.
  • I bought the car with 14,000 miles on it. Was previously a rental fleet car. With the exception of this one problem has performed well and is in excellent condition . The idea of changing the switches on the steering wheel seems like the next logical step. I sense that the problem can be corrected but don't have the technical knowledge to know for sure. Since the car is still under warranty might be subject to lemon laws. The dealership is aware that I need more done to correct the problem. I assume that as long as I bring it in well in advance of warranty expiration (July 2007) they will cover the repair. I appreciate the fact that you looked over the old posts on this sight in preparing your replies. Thanks very much for your continuing interest and will post the resolution of this when I take the car in to the dealership again.
  • boomer1bboomer1b Posts: 348
    Did your servicing dealer offer you a free loaner?

     

    Mine did for the emission control recall/check my cruise again deal.

     

    I asked for the "fat daddy" CTS V that has been sitting since March ! Of course all hopes dashed and was offered just about any used car on the lot!

     

    Since the weather has been miserable here in NY I declined and drove my 4x4 instead !

    Let the "boss" suffer and driver our Escort winter rat !!!!.......LOL !
  • sls002sls002 Posts: 2,788
    It really is not your problem to figure out what is wrong with the cruise control, that is the service departments job. All you need to do is to understand that something is not working right and explain clearly to the service manager what is wrong.

     

    I think that there is some problem in transmitting the signal from the buttons on the steering wheel to the cruise control module. Perhaps the service manager needs to drive the car a few days until he experiences the problem.
  • Your logic and reasoning is sound. The weather here has been cold with snow and freezing rain so I have waited to go in. It is a forty mile trip to the closest Cadillac dealership. I agree that it is their job to figure out what is wrong with the cruise system. They have offered me a loaner car if they need to keep the car overnight or longer. Many thanks for your input and advice.
  • Yes was offered a free loaner. I asked for a CTS,

    the customer relations person said they would try to oblige. The weather here has been cold and wet as is in your area so have not gone in yet.
  • boomer1bboomer1b Posts: 348
    HEY ALL!.....We Have a new member called Caddy Mike around here who has 2 Deville ragtops !

     

    Sent him this way "home" !!!

     

    I wanna hear about those drop top Caddies......
  • fmilymnfmilymn Posts: 13
    93 Deville, 116,000 mi, Lt front wheel bearing and front struts need replaced (light on too). Rear shocks replaced in 2002. Only 1 other problem ........ LOW HEAT (door/flap closing properly) only like 25% of what it should be. I believe it may be caused by the "horse pills" the repair manual calls for to add in the coolant, something to do with the aluminum engine. Purchased pills from the dealer. Had to crush the things to a powder to add them. I believe heater core is clogged. It's not exactly easy to just pull out. Water flows into it and out of it fine. Both hoses get HOT. Kind of a head scratcher. Bought from an estate sale in the summer. Changed fluid then. Not sure if problem existed before my purchase. Anyone else have an idea of what may cause my no heat condition? The blower works. Fantastic car otherwise!
  • boomer1bboomer1b Posts: 348
    If you crushed the pills and added them to the lower rad. hose that prob. is not your problem.

     

    Esp. if both the hoses are hot you gotta figure the core is not plugged..........

    Is your heater door stuck ? Does air come out the defroster, floor, dash vents ? Can you hear the door moving ?

     

    The front struts are $pendy and I assume you have the service ride control message......

    My front struts went out on my 96 Deville....$2500 fix at the dealer.........

    Bye Bye 96 and hello new 03 Deville...........

     

    I used a "cob" fix with a 50 ohm resistor wired into the plug on each of the strut towers to fool the computer and turn off the service msg.

    Then dumped the car !!!!!!!!!!!!!

    I found this info. on one of the cadillacforums

     

    BTW: There are now aftermarket passive struts to replace the factory front electric ones for 1/3 the price.
Sign In or Register to comment.