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Cadillac DeVille

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Comments

  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    A 'new' 2006 for $21,500 plus your car valued at $17,000? Is this the deal?

    $48,500 for a car that would be 2 years old when you get it off the lot?

    $48,500 for a 2006 when you can find tons of rental/lease returns with 18,000 miles for $20,000 and even less?

    Why, why, why would you want to do this?
  • 04cad04cad Posts: 131
    I have been trading for a two year old program car for a couple of years now and receiving a fairly good deal (I think). I think you might be better off trading for a low mileage year or two old car than paying the $21,000.00 difference for the almost two year old new one. If you work with the dealer a bit or maybe try another dealer to try. Watch for their sales or another dealer's and take the paper with you. There should be a lot of 2006 program cars coming off lease and maybe even some 2007's coming off lease soon too. Good luck.
  • 04cad04cad Posts: 131
    Hi, I have enjoyed the savings on two year old rental/lease return cars for a couple of years now, but haven't been able to find any low mileage 2006's (if that is what you were saying) this year yet for anything near $20,000. Could you give me a couple of dealer's names that are offering DTS's with low mileage in the low to middle $20's? My usual dealer hasn't had anything this year so far that meets my needs. Thanks in advance.
  • geo9geo9 Posts: 739
    In my neck of the woods Syracuse NY 04 CTS are just under
    $20k, 05 Deville $19,995, 06 DTS (base)$24,xxx @ at Crest
    Caddy. 06 DTS sez loaded out $28k 22k miles @ Stafford
    auto group Auburn NY. 05 DHS $19,995 Wilber-Duck GM dealer
    Oneida NY............

    Thats all the big Caddies in todays paper:
    http://www.syracuse.com
  • bremertongbremertong Posts: 436
    The actual total, the trade at $17,000 and the cash of $21,500 would come out to a total of $38,500. The car is a 2006 but is new and according to the dealership just never sold. I agree with the idea of finding either a lease return or fleet car with low miles in that if certified it
    would carry in addition to the original warranty an added warranty under the certified program. I am on the west coast where prices are for some reason a little higher than for Cadillac on the east coast. There are more used Cadillacs available in the east and at lower prices.
  • bremertongbremertong Posts: 436
    The actual total, the trade at $17,000 and the cash of $21,500 would come out to a total of $38,500. The car is a 2006 but is new and according to the dealership just never sold. I agree with the idea of finding either a lease return or fleet car with low miles in that if certified it
    would carry in addition to the original warranty an added warranty under the certified program. I am on the west coast where prices are for some reason a little higher than for Cadillac on the east coast. There are more used Cadillacs available in the east and at lower prices.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Keystone Chevrolet in Sand Spring, Ok (near Tulsa) a few months ago had several 'base' 2006 DTS (Deville)'s. We drove by because my wife wants another Cadillac. I was scared to death to offer $19,500 for one, because I know I would have bought a car. These cars had 18,000 to 24,000 miles and sure looked like rental vehicles. White, blue, silver colors, base [isn't that a Level I] DTS's.

    Since this wasn't a Caddy dealer, you couldn't have gotten a certified warranty. I would think Caddy dealers out there are going with a certified warranty for one like these for about $22,000.

    And, yes, $17,000 plus 21,500 is $38,500, not $48,500. Sometimes I can't add correctly.
  • sls002sls002 Posts: 2,788
    The DTS has 4 trim levels. The base level was called Luxury I in 2006 I think, but for 2007 the Luxury level I is one level up from base. The top level is the Performance package. The 2007's come in base, Lux I and II, with Performance at the top. The Performance package is really a quasi-sport sedan trim.
  • 04cad04cad Posts: 131
    Those are some decent prices, I wish our local dealers were that reasonable. I like keeping a fairly new, under warranty Deville. Thanks for the reply. It will give us a baseline when we do start talking to our dealer for a trade.
  • bremertongbremertong Posts: 436
    I did a national search for used 2006 DTS on both Auto Trader and Cars.Com, Could not find anything close to the price you refer to in your post. Closest was around $ 29,000
    for cars with around 28,000 miles. It may be that the prices you saw were only being offered at the dealership and not posted on the internet. I would of course be interested in a 2006 Deville at the price range you mentioned. If you are able to find anything like this perhaps you could post name and location of dealership so if any of the forum members are interested they could follow up. Many thanks for the post in that it indicates that there are bargains out there if one shops around.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Keystone Chevy in Sand Springs, Oklahoma, back in the winter. Had several of them. Probably bought an entire transport truck load of them at some auction where rental company and GM finance was dumping a load of 18 month old cars. All of the cars manufactor date was May 2005, but they were 2006 models. My guess, they had about $15,000 in each of them.

    If it had been a Cadillac dealer, and he would have done a Cadillac certification for around $23,000 or so, I would have probably bought one, parked it in the driveway (Ridgeline and Corvette inside) and told to wife to drive it for 4 years or so (until certification warranty expired) and then dumped it.

    Unwarrantied Northstars scare me to death. I fear for the blown headgasket or '$40 part buried $2,000 deep in the transmission' problems.
  • 04cad04cad Posts: 131
    That's the beauty of the Caddy's five year 50,000 mile bumper to bumper warranty, no fears on a used one that still qualifies. A 2006 with low miles still has three years (depending on the exact in service date) and some miles left on the warranty (with really low miles it could be almost as good as most other vehicles new warranty). And you hopefully won't need it anyway. Then in a couple of years you can find another low mileage two year old Caddy and trade again. At those prices, if they were average miles, I might have bought two, one for my wife and one for my daughter. The ones I am seeing here are around $29,000. to $30,000. for a 2006 with 30,000 miles or so. Not a bad price, but still a lot of money for a two year old car. :)
  • geo9geo9 Posts: 739
    I wouldn't worry about a N-star powered late model
    Caddy. My 90 non N-star went 125k troublefree miles
    from new. My 96 N-star Deville rolled up 100k and
    the only issue was those GM only electric front struts
    that cost $2500 bucks so that one went bye bye for a
    new 02 Deville!
    But "the boss" wanted a sunroof....UGH! and I didn't want
    to go thru another add on hole (from ASC) that my 90
    had not to mention leak issues...............
    The 02 went bye bye for the 03 with a factory hole !
    You know I sat in that car for at least 50 car washes
    looking for leaks before I signed the papers !
    I was afraid of the paint washing off the car........

    Anyhoo I know the N-star is a complicated engine but in
    my experience (except for the water pump seal in my 03)
    I wouldn't sweat owning it for 5 years or more even
    after warranty !

    Why pay that BIG cash for a "certified" car?
    I would buy a current year used and get a GM extended
    warranty when nearing the 4/50k mfr.warranty end period.
    You can save some BIG $$$$$$ over buying new.........
  • 04cad04cad Posts: 131
    Obviously I mistated the number of years in this post, should have been four years and 50,000 miles. And a GM extended warranty is probably a good option, the only thing is, I keep getting confusing information when I try to pin GM down on when their extended warranties start and how many years they actually add. I believe they start when you buy them, but I have also been told that if you buy a five year warranty, you are actually only extending the factory warranty by one year. It is hard to imagine that you couldn't buy an extended warranty up front and have it start whenever you want it to, by paying the appropriate pro rated amount (you know, if you want it to start when the original one runs out, you would pay more because it will have either 50,000 miles or be 4 years old when the warranty kicks in). My dealer has a 2007 with 14,000 miles and fully optioned for 41,999 or 42,999 certified, he hasn't gotten back to me for a trade difference on our 2005 with 28,000 miles. I am sure it will be too much. :(
  • sls002sls002 Posts: 2,788
    If you are buying the GM extended warranty, then what you are actually doing is extending the original warranty. So, a 7 year warranty would be 3 more years beyond the original 4 year warranty. The Cadillac Certified used warranty of 6 years/100,000 miles is 6 years from the start of the original factory warranty or 2 years beyond the end of the original 4 year warranty. The extended warranty is ususally cheaper to buy in the first year than at the end of the original warranty period.
  • 04cad04cad Posts: 131
    Yes, I don't think the dealerships are that clear when they explain the warranties to the people or maybe it just gets confusing with all the numbers and etc. In other words, really a seven year extended warranty is really a three year extended warranty (since the car has a four year warranty and you are paying for three additional years) and the six year extended warranty is really a two year extended warranty for the same reason. When it is advertised as a seven year extended warranty, a lot of people assume your are adding seven years onto the orignal factory four. I have spoken with several people who checked into extended factory warranties and they all have had that misconception and I myself was very confused about this issue after speaking with my local dealer, who by the way pushes an aftermarket warranty company instead of the GMPP, which I am sure is because they make more money on them. I even had someone from a dealer that sells GMPP call me to try and sell me an extended warranty on our 2004 Deville and the salesman didn't realize that the warranty started on the day that you buy it. Thanks for the clarification. :)
  • geo9geo9 Posts: 739
    It was my understanding with a GMPP x-warranty that it
    started at the date and mileage WHEN PURCHASED !

    When I priced one thru Black GM dealer in Pa.
    http://www.warrantyoutlet.com that was
    the deal. Thats why I always shopped for a GMPP near
    the end of the new car warranty. It is true that the
    price of the warranty increases as the car ages.
    Examples of a class 4 (Deville) $0 deduct GMPP:
    New or less than 12 months old/12k miles--- 3/45k $530.
    used with 0- 24k miles 3/36k $ 915.
    used with 24,001 to 36k miles 3/36k $1,565.

    Some warranty companies coverage starts are different.
    But are you gonna gamble your $$$ on a company that
    might not be there or worry about coverage denile or
    exclusion? Some dealers won't deal with many
    brand x warranty companies.
  • 04cad04cad Posts: 131
    I agree the GMPP is the way to go if you can. Unfortunately if your vehicle is already out of original factory warranty and hasn't been extended with a GMPP then you can't get one from GM. A few of my friends and I got burned with an aftermarket warranty a few years ago that went belly up, quit paying claims and was still selling online advertising a high rating. I guess it is still a question of when does the warranty really start? In this thread we now have two different statements by different people, both of whom seem to be really sure what they believe and I have heard both versions so I don't know what to believe. I do know my wife bought a GM extended warranty from a local dealer and when she went in for service they insisted the extended warranty started from the in service date. However when we pressed them about it, they extended her warranty by the amount of time and miles that she thought she had purchased when she bought the extended warranty. I don't worry much about the engine or trans anymore, it is all the other items like computer modules and other electronics that scares me.
  • sls002sls002 Posts: 2,788
    While it may be true that the dealer makes more money on aftermarket warranties, I think that the aftermarket warranties may also be somewhat less expensive. It is also true that the aftermarket warranties may be available on out of warranty used cars, so for the dealer, pushing one particular warranty is easier.

    Waiting till the end of the factory warranty seems like a good thing to do, but if the extended warranty is 3 times more expensive, then buying while the car is new is best. I have a new SRX, and while the dealer's finance guy was pushing a third party warranty, I said that I wanted to think about extending the factory warranty. At this point in time I think that I will see about a 7 year/100,000 mile extention (really a three year/50,000 mile extention).
  • 04cad04cad Posts: 131
    I think a lot of the perceived savings by buying the warranty early is the perception that, hey I am getting a seven year 100,000 mile warranty for XXXX dollars versus a three year 50,000 mile warranty for almost the same amount. Since the first four years or 50,000 miles is included in the vehicle purchase price, either way you are only purchasing a three year 50,000 mile warranty(depending on what you believe). If you are definitely going to keep it over four years and 50,000 miles, buying the extended warranty up front is a safe way to make sure you don't go out of warranty because you didn't realize the time or mileage has elapsed. We try to trade every year or two to keep the depreciation low and avoid the cost of the extended warranty and/or repairs. If we could trade as well as we do with our Silverado ext. cab it would be and easy trade, but for some reason the Caddy is always a harder trade to come out on money wise.
  • drmlogan6drmlogan6 Posts: 1
    This car has 160,000+ miles. Started running hot. Had thermostat, water pump, radiator all changed. Nothing seemed to help. Mechanic suggested that it may be from missing shroud underneath designed to channel air to engine. Replaced, now the exhaust is blowing smoke with that sweet radiator smell when driven, which wasn't happening until last trip to mechanic. He now says head gasket gone. I did ask him prior to last trip, before steamy radiator smoke started, could it be a head gasket. He was convinced not because the engine wasn't "missing". So now the car is pretty much trashed unless I want to invest yet even more money to rebuild or replace engine. I think no, but I was going to try to use a head gasket solution to see if that might work. My question is can anyone tell me where the drain plug for the radiator is located?
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Classic blown head gasket.

    Pouring 'gunk' into the radiator has absolutely no hope of fixing a Northstar blown headgasket. You've got combustion gases at what, 1,000 degrees, blowing into the water passages. Nothing you pour into the radiator is going to stop this.

    Your mechanic is either incompetent, or he make a lot of money by replacing radiator, thermo, and water pump when the head gasket was the problem probably all along.
  • 04cad04cad Posts: 131
    I am not sure if the newer models have a drain port, the mechanic may just loosen the lower hose clamp and remove one end of the hose to drain the antifreeze? Did this car ever have the antifreeze flushed? I believe when flushing the antifreeze on these vehicles, GM recommends adding some sort of stop leak to the new antifreeze when refilling. This probably won't help you now, but you might want to check your records to see if any time it was flushed if they noted putting in the stop leak, if they didn't it might pay to talk to them about their responsibility for damages? good luck....
  • sls002sls002 Posts: 2,788
    Before it started to run hot were you adding water/coolant to the radiator? If the engine has been leaking coolant for any length of time, there may be significant damage from corrosion. Replacing the head gasket is probably around $2000, replacing the engine more. Replacing the car will increase the annual cost of ownership by far more than replacing the head gasket. If you get another 4 years out of the deVille for $2000, this adds $500 per year to the cost.
  • zimzam1zimzam1 Posts: 13
    Hey I am just about to trade in my 98 Deville for a 2002 Deville with 49310 miles on it and I am trying to decide which warranty to get with it. I have been reading all around and see that steering can be an issue. Should I just pay the extra 1000 bucks and get the bumper to bumper warranty for 4 years and/or 100000 miles?
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Is this the Cadillac 'certified' warranty or some after-market one?

    For $1,000, I sure would jump on a certified warranty. But I thought Cadillac would only go to about a 7 year total, or something like that. Which would take a 2002 until about 2009 - which is only 2 years in the future?

    You need to know what you are getting....
  • zimzam1zimzam1 Posts: 13
    I also have a 98 Deville with 160000 miles. I am getting rid of it in a week for a 2002 deville because ofthe head gasket situation. Let me tell you something rightnow. If anyone trys to tell you that they can change the head gasket for $2000 they have no clue what they are talking about. First off, because of the aluminum block and how many miles are on it, the engine block is probably a little warped so when they go to put it back together they bolts wont line up and then they will have to rethread them and that will add more cash to the cost. And secondly with 160000 miles on it who knows what else they will find wrong when they start to take it apart, even some parts that were just barly holding together could just break off when they start the disasembly. A good example of this is the heater pipes that run around the back of the engine are notoriouse for going bad around this time. So you should only think about an engine replacement and that would cost you at least 8 grand. So I would advise in a new vehicle. Changing the head gasket in something like that with so many miles is only going to cause you more head aches.
  • zimzam1zimzam1 Posts: 13
    I should have made myself clearer. I didnt realize my message made no sense until I just read it. But anyway the original factory warranty is all done because of the four year window is over. So I am only getting a 60 day 2500 mile warranty from the dealer, thats their basic warranty that comes with the car. Now I have been shopping around with warranty brokers, (aa auto warranty is a great one), and they gave me a few quotes for some limited coverage warranties for a few years for $800 to $1500 dollars. But the bumper to bumper one they offered was for 4 years or until my mileage hits 100000. Now Deville is at 49310 miles right now and I dont see myself taking it over the 100000 mark until 4 years is up. But the question I keep asking myself is over 4 years what is the chances of me sinking $2500 into my Deville if something goes wrong? Is it a chance I should take? I am most likely going to get a basic warranty anyway. So do you think I should just spend the extra $1000 bucks and get the good warranty. The funny thing is that the dealership offered me their bumper to bumper warranty for $4200. The crooks.
  • ladymyladyladymylady Posts: 21
    Hi,
    I've been reading through some of the earlier posts looking for info on the 2002 Deville DHS fully loaded with sunroof.

    Glad to find out that I need to put more than 5 quarts of oil in. And will be grateful for other tips...but am a bit concerned.

    Bought car 4 days ago at 51,000 miles...1000 miles after mfr. warrantee expired so it's not certified. Dealer tried to sell me Magic Guard warrantee - 2 years, 200 deductible for about $2700, which I didn't buy. That's one problem. After reading some of the stuff here, and with all the electronics and modules on this thing, which I didnt have on my '93, I realize I better get a warrantee in a hurry.

    But I didn't like the Magic Guard which really doesn't cover as much as I think it should..some of the independent warrantee's seem to cover more, such as the Platinum....
    but reading about the companies that go belly up with your warrantee money is pretty scary.

    I realize now from reading a bit here, that the dealer who I was servicing the 93 Deville with really took me for a ride.... said something was wrong with fuel pump but had to take off the fuel tank to get to it - so he might as well replace the fuel tank ----$1500 and I never got good gas mileage after that ! It probably was a pressure sensor and not the gas tank that needed to be replaced...other than that, at 130,000 miles the car still drove beautifully, smooth ride and what a turning ratio...much better ratio than the "new " 2002 DHS Deville....I loved that big 1993 boat, but not being mechanical myself it was time to give it up -

    Anyway - reading about 2002's oil needs, fuel pumps, struts problems etc....I'm pretty sure that I need that warranty as quick as possible...dealer gave me absolutely no guarantee at all...

    1)Any suggestions about what company to buy which will cover all the electronicss and sensors ??

    2) Anybody here who has the 2002 DHS deville who can tell me what problems to watch out for?

    Thanks,
    Lady
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Well, to replace a failed fuel pump, you do have to remove the gas tank. The pump is inside. And the 'sender' for the fuel guage.

    Now if the entire tank was replaced..... Maybe it was rusted up and needed replacing?

    The fuel pump/sender assembly (and if you are in there, you should replace both) is about $350 Cadillac list price. A new tank and labor could take this to $1,500..

    I not going to recommend an after market warranty. Know nothing about them. There is, I think, a forum board about warranties you might should read thru.
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