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Cadillac DeVille

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  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Well, the sensor 'thinks' the coolant level is low. The sensor is the 'surge' tank, which is the tank under the cap where you fill the coolant.

    Sometimes the sensor is just dirty, sometimes it has failed. In any case, I think the tank is going to have to be removed. Which means that a couple of hoses will have to be pulled off.

    Pulling these hoses off may not be real easy. The small hoses on a Cadillac are known to be difficult to remove, especially up by the firewall, which is where the surge tank is located.

    If you can get the tank off, and flush it out well, this might clean off a sensor that is just dirty and not functioning. If I went to this much work, I would replace the sensor.
  • I have a 94 Sedan Deville that stops running at the corners and even sometimes when i drive. Another problem I have is that when running and standing still it idles rough. Can anyone give possible solutions? :(
  • my car has always ran good but the other day i went to start it up and it said theft system problem wait 3 mins. so i waited 3 mins and nothing..that was 4 days ago and it still wont start..i cant figure out what it wrong? the battery is fine, but it just wont crank due to the theft system problem..nebody know how to fix this? if so it would be greatly appreciated! thanks! :confuse: :confuse:
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    I think your car has the first version security system, which has a resistance 'pellet' in the middle of the key.
    If so, the easy problem is the 'pellet' in your key may be dirty. Clean it with electric cleaner or some such thing and try it again. Or, if you have another key, try it.

    Or, there is a true problem with the security sytem. The wiring from the key down the steering column is a very small wire, and this sometimes breaks.

    Or the key cylinder is bad and needs to be replaced.

    A workaround, if you can find someone that knows how to do this, is to find out which of the 16 or so resistance values your key pellet uses (measure it with a good multimeter), and buy a resister with this value and find the wires in the steer column, cut the wires, and wire in the resister.
  • hello I've heard that it is not recommended that the factory player be removed for custom in dash monitors or any other receiver other than the current player. what steps (if any) should you take to carefully remove the factory player and install any custom players/receivers without damage to the system? thanks
  • :) This is a huge step from my old Acura Integra, I will say it was a great car, the most reliable that I have ever owned. The Deville is just great, my wife says it feels like we have grown up. It was a local car sold new at the local dealer then traded in. 60K miles and very clean, is there anything that I should look for as far as service. Also, it only has 1 key. Should I deal with the dealer, or is there a more economical route. Thanks in advance.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    I'm not an expert here. But, by this model, I think the radio is an intergral part of the 'serial communication port' wiring. If you pull the factory radio, you may have all kinds of things shut down.

    Many aftermarket radio installers have learned to just push the stock radio back into the dash, leaving it connected, and then putting their unit into the hole. What a clutz approach.

    My opinion - on late model autos, especially those with complicated electronics, I think adding an aftermarket radio, security system, or remote start is just asking for electrical problems. If not with installation, then later when the trashy electrical connects the installers make start to come appart.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    How much do you want to spend?

    At 60,000 miles, the plug and plug wires are supposed to be good for 100,000 miles, but they might something to replace. Use only the original Cadillac wires, and I would also say to use the AC plugs (or maybe they are Denso by this year) recommended for the car (platium). Don't go for any of the multi-contact stuff, just get a platium plug the owners manual recommends.

    At 60,000 miles and 4-5 years, unless you have the service records for the car and it has already been done, the coolant system needs serviced. It's also supposed to be good for 100,000 miles, but this is one I definitely would have done. Have the old coolant flushed out throughly and the recommended amount of Dexcool replaced.

    What does your oil usage percent indicate? You cannot be sure it was reset correctly at the last change. Consider having oil and filter changed, and reset the oil life indicator at that time. Just bring it up in the display area, and then hold down the 'reset' button for a few seconds. It will reset to 100%. You will then know the oil life indicator is correct.

    Unless the car has been abused, mainly meaning having overheated, or used as a tow vehicle, the transmission fluid is probably ok. This fluid can easily go to its 100,000 mile recommended change milage. When you do have this serviced, DO NOT have a 'flush' done, where they hook up an external machine and force the fluid into/thru the transmission. Have someone that knows something about a Northstar do it. The pan must be dropped, there is no filter to replace, just a wire screen to be cleaned, but most important, there is a second fluid plug inside that must be pulled, then an additional, large amount of tranny fluid will come out, more than comes out when the pan is dropped. Many service people do not even know about this, and you are not getting the entire amount of fluid drained that can be drained. My 2005 also has a 'transmission fluid life' percent indication, and I assume this can also be reset by holding down the reset button.

    Other than this, start saving your money, because something on this complicated auto is going to break and need servicing.
  • 04cad04cad Posts: 131
    Talk to your local Cadillac service department first. You may be pleasantly surprised. They might give you a key and cut it free. You can get a replacement fob through ebay cheaper than the dealer probably and take it to your local service dept. and sometimes they will program it for you free also. Good luck.
  • zimzam1zimzam1 Posts: 13
    You could bring your car to a cadillac dealer where they only specialize in Cadillacs and get an idea where you stand with how worn out your fluids are. Or anything else for that matter.
    My old Deville the plugs and wires lasted exactly 100,000 miles. Once I got about 100,100 miles it started to studder on the highway, and what do you know? One of the plugs were cracked.
    Now getting reliable information on what is wrong or what is going to go wrong with your Cadillac is good to get at the dealership. But actually getting it done there depends on how fat your wallet is. They wanted 600 bucks to change the plugs and wires so I went out and spent 120 on the proper plugs and wires and did it myself and it only took about 45 minutes. The same thing with my brakes. I ended up doing them myself and saving a fortune.
    But there were other things that needed to be done here and there that I was not able to do that they were pretty reasonable with the price. So you never know.
    But anyway, I am on my 2nd Deville and I love them. I will never drive anything else but a Deville. I got my 1st one, which was a 1998, when it was 2 years old with 44k miles on it and I got 120k out of it. I just babied the thing and kept up with the general mainenance of it and never had any real problems, until the end. And that was when it had 160k + miles on it.
    Now my 2nd new used Deville is a 2002. I got it when it had 49k miles on it from a Cadi dealer. It to was bought new there and then traded in. I have only had it for 4 about months but it has been running smooth and looks real sharp so I am a happy guy.
    Well anyway, good luck with your Deville. I hope I have been somewhat usefull. And as far as keys go I am pretty sure you dont have the little chip piece in your key so I think you can get your key made at pretty much anyplace that makes keys. But I am not entirely sure on that.

    and I have been crusin around in style ever since. I am a happy man. And ye
  • 04cad04cad Posts: 131
    We just traded in our 2005 Deville and reinstalled the stock aluminum machined rims that came with the car prior to trading it in. We kept the oem style (might be oem) chrome rims that fit the 2003, 2004 and 2005 Devilles. They are in good shape and come with four of the plastic chrome centers with gold trim wreaths (the gold plating is coming off of the wreathes and the plastic is cracked on a couple of the centers, but they still work and can be replaced through ebay or a dealer). We bought these new from ebay and they were on a vehicle for about maybe thirty thousand miles or so or two and a half years approx. First on a 2004 and then on the 2005. If anyone near Indiana is interested in them I will send pics. Thanks I hope it is okay to post this here.
  • Does anyone know how to remove a driver front side fender off of a 1988 Cadillac deville? PLZ HELP
  • vicgoovicgoo Posts: 11
    I have a 93 Coupe deville with the digital dash-speedo,odometer,a/c display,gas gage and mpg inop.I checked and all the fuses are good.It has been sitting for a year ,was told they were working when it last drove.The car starts up,everything else is fine.The display for radio is fine.Any ideas?
  • otto8otto8 Posts: 116
    Remember there is an addl. fuse center located in the trunk
    either on the frame on the back of the rear seat or under
    the rear window. It will be covered by a carpeted panel.

    Not to mention the underhood fuse center or the one under
    the dash. Check your owners manual.
  • I bought a 2001 Cadillac Deville in 2003. It was certified pre-owned. I have had problems with the car from day 1. I thought that not only did certified, but also the expensive price and luxury meant that I was purchasing a good car. The more that I hear, the more it seems that Cadillac is a problem car. Now that my warranty is out, I am really spending big bucks on repairs. I have 98,000 miles. What is in store for me? Should I be trying to trade it in before the engine blows? What is the average life of a Cadillac? I thought that they were good for 10-15 years or more. Please help! :lemon:
  • sls002sls002 Posts: 2,788
    So what exactly have you had to fix for big bucks?

    One thing to keep a close eye on is the coolant level. If the coolant level is dropping then there is a leak that needs fixed. Failure to fix it can doom the engine. Otherwise, the engine should last indefinitly. The transmission should last too, but may need some control devices replaced. How long the car lasts will depend on how it was cared for by you and the previous owner. The first owner may have done some damage which is only now beginning to need repair.
  • 04cad04cad Posts: 131
    More details about the expenses and for what repairs so far would be helpful. My advice - look for a used 2007 Cadillac DTS, they are a lot more car and you will not believe the difference. It's is more about miles than years and care and driving habits and conditions figure in pretty heavily to the longevity of any vehicle. Good luck. :)
  • Can anyone help me locate the fuel pump access for my 1998 Deville. According to my local garage they have replaced the fuel pump twice, yet I still have a problem. At first, the problem was intermittent, but has now become chronic. There is no fuel getting to the injectors.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Fuel pump is inside the gas tank. I think it was about 2000 or so model year when they put an access plate under the spare tire so the pump could be accessed from above. I think yours will have to have the gas tank dropped out to access the pump.

    Cadillacs have been know to overheat the wiring to the pump when the pump is failing. If you have to go into this again, make sure the wiring to the pump is checked also. If it is melted, etc, it will need repair.

    Also, the filter might be clogged. It is on the frame, under the left passenger door area.
  • Hey I had this same problem. I had a local locksmith come out and when he pulled the steering wheel off there were some thin like wires that weren't connected, I would advise you to do this! it cost like 90 bucks..
  • I have a 96' Deville, I had experienced some problems with rough shifting, but not bad at all so I had the car serviced they put a new transmission kit on changed the fluid. When I leave the shop my light is still on and my car will not shift into overdrive. Any ideals?
  • 04cad04cad Posts: 131
    Something to remember on vehicles with the gas pump in the tank also....... you don't ever want to let the gas tank run empty. The pump gets it's lubrication from the gas and if it runs empty you will almost certainly ruin the pump. It may take a few months to quit completely, but it is pretty certain that it will go bad after being run without enough gas. Good Luck!
  • My last log was about the trans sensors. Well I got that fixed. But millage is still off. But my main Q tonight is The service light has come back on says Service Emission system??Filters are fine. I have codes P0325 KNOCK SENSOR 1 (BANK1.
    P0401- EGR Flow Insufficient detected
    P1406- Unknown
    We had the knock sensor replaced a bout 2 years ago so I don't look for that to be the prob..... unless that is a re-accuring thing with these cars....Plus now in climate control will not function on AUTO only ECON. .....anddddddddddd sometimes it just shuts off for a few minutes and comes back on(the heat or air).
    So with all this what my next best move?? Rebecca....
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    You said "they put a new transmission kit on changed the fluid".

    I am guessing they just pulled the pan, which takes 'some' of the tranny fluid out, and put a new gasket on it and buckled it back up. And this didn't do anything to help your problem.

    You've probably got a shift solonid problem. There are three of these. Two of them can be replaced rather easily. The transmission does have to be opened up, but they can be accessed from the bottomof the car. The third one is buried deep within the tranny, and the motor and tranny must be pulled to get to it. This one usually sets a 0741 error code.

    You need to have the error codes pulled, and someone interpret them correctly. If it is a code for the 'A' or 'B' shift solonids, you are lucky. If a 741, it is going to cost a lot because of the labor to pull the tranny.

    Unfortunately, not shifting into overdrive sounds more like the 'expensive' one.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Regarding only the AC not going to Auto. This many times means the AC system has lost freon pressure. The pressure and/or temperature sensors in the AC system will NOT allow the system to switch on when it has leaked freon out. When the system is in ECON mode, the AC does not run. So, with no freon, the computer automatically shifts it into ECON mode.

    Find the leak, fix it, recharge the system.
  • toneygtoneyg Posts: 19
    Having a few problems with my caddy. Rough idle, surging at 30 to35 mph then smooths out. Have been told that it might be the electronic throttle positioner. This vehicle only has 96,000 miles on it an is in show room condition. I've changed the plugs,wires,cap,rotor. Also the catyletic convertor changed out,all the filters,except the fuel filter. only run premium fuel in it. It has The 4.9 V-8 engine in it. Some please help me in this matter. I'm stumped and almost ready to take it and have a diagnostic ran. There is no service engine light on or anything telling me if anything is wrong. Can it be the E CM has gone faulty?
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Does this car have Throttle Body Fuel Injection?

    If so, there are 2 air passages in the bottom of the intake that clog with carbon and cause dirveability problems such as you are having.

    These passages can be seen by looking straight down into the throttle body. Use a probe or screwdriver to clean these passages and your problems might go away.

    Otherwise, yes, the idle control and/or throttle position control (some cars have both of these) can go bad and cause problems. I'm not sure these type problems would continue until 30/35mph. If these are the problem/s, I think replacement is rather simple, take off the old ones, put on new ones. BUT, getting them re-set so they work well is a real mess, best left to a mechanic who understands them, or has factory service manual to follow the procedures.

    There is also MAP sensor could be bad or the Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) valve that could be also clogged or bad.

    Finding a mechanic with experience on this age Cadillac might be your best bet to narrow down exactly is your problem. Or, if you was to pursue it yourself, buy the factory service manual, not one of the after market ones.
  • I see that asked decades ago, but I had the same issue, very frightening. It was cured by fixing my loose engine mounting. Sounds odd, but it fixed the issue, never happend again.
  • Karen_CMKaren_CM Posts: 5,018
    bolivar, you're so good at answering DeVille owner questions. Perhaps you would like to take a stab at this one? :)

    http://answers.edmunds.com/question_95_cadillac_Deville_oil_bell_housing_valve_c- overs_where_552.aspx

    Community Manager If you have any questions or concerns about the Forums, send me an email, karen@edmunds.com, or click on my screen name to send a personal message.

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