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Cadillac DeVille

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  • chrisptown1chrisptown1 Posts: 41
    They gave me some pause. we are at $15.5 right now, haven't discussed my PA trade. The '05 Deville was "Certified" in Apr. '08. was in service 11/04. has 51k right now/ the dealer is telling me it is covered bumper to bumper til 11/10. I thought only the power train is covered til 11/10.? do you know? The veh. has everything i want--XM Sat., m/roof. heated and cooled.seats (need the heat here in Maine) I should know by wed. if it is a go. i could still go either way.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    If it's a Cadillac 'certified' this would be a bumper-to-bumper, just like a new car. Don't take dealer's word. Get a printout showing the coverage. They can pull this from their computer, showing the coverage date and milage. But per what you said, this is only 6 more months of coverage.

    The GM power train coverage started in 2006, about August. It is for 5 years, 100,000 miles. I don't think that Cadillac would have this coverage.

    As I said, I would look into getting a GMAC extended warranty if I bought this car.

    Here is where I got mine http://www.gmoutlet.com/p&hfee.html

    Black Pontiac Cadillac, Our 48th Year
    3929 Admiral Peary Highway
    Ebensburg, Pa. 15931
    877-472-9550 Toll Free
    814-472-9550 Local
    814-472-4741 Fax
    allen@gmoutlet.com
    www.gmoutlet.com

    This was cheapest place I could find in 2008. But I don't know if they will cover a 5 1/2 year old Cadillac.
  • duraflexduraflex Posts: 358
    In January 2009, I acquired a very low mileage (22,000) DHS. Beautiful, smooth quiet car. I do have an issue with the rear air-conditioning - it blows hot air regardless of thermostat settings front or rear. Front AC works like a champ.

    Can anyone give me a clue of what the problem might be? and what it might cost to repair?

    Thanks.
  • rebeccatrebeccat Posts: 5
    Hi,
    I have a big problem tring to get my car inspected. The computor keeps throwing O2 codes. We have replaced 2 that have been said to be the prob. One under the motor and the other a bit farther back around the area of the drivers seat.
    The dash pc says to check the Emissions system. Tha air cleaner is fine and the motor is running well. It had a vaccum leak but got that fixed. We done the EGR valve. Checked the PCV also. We had a water leak problem but ended up using that liquid glass stuff. It was not blowing out the tail pipe. I thought the prob was the radiator. Replaced that , the hoses, and some belts.We cancel the pc codes drive it a bit and the light comes back on. When the light is out the AC works , but when its on it goes to "econ" and doesn't... Oh we had heater core prob too. We by passed it temporarily, tell we have other things working. Its not losing water now the temp is staying normal. Oh we also replaced the Thermostate too. Its got near 200,000 miles.
    HELP I am at lose to fix this thing and can't replace a car now. the inspections been out a month now and I'm on borrowed time :). Becky
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Many times an O2 codes does not mean the O2 sensor is bad. I means the O2 sensor is 'sensing' either a rich or lean condition. Which mean the problem is somewhere else.

    You've thrown a lot of money at the problem. It might be time to find a good Cadillac mechanic and see what he can find.

    But just for something else to look at - on old Northstar motor the rubber tube that goes into the intake will sometimes rot out at the bottom, where you can not see it. This is a large black tube. With addional air coming into the motor here, you will get a lean running car all the time. I think it's quite a disassembly job to repair this. But you should be able to fill around at the bottom of the tube and see if its bad.
  • WELL, i bite the bullett, ended up paying $15.K fioor the '05, took del. thurs. finish is flawless. leather seats are firmer than my Pk. av. were, but they may be better for support. have the bumper to bumper til 11/30. this yr. then i bought a GMAC ext. covering to $75k. it has 50k now. ...Anyway have issue already--have a noise coming from right fr. suspension. on list of the dealers pre sale work was a right fr. strut. do they do it? did the 370 mi. trip from dealer to my house develop something new? i know it should be covered, but nearest Caddy dealer is 120 mi. away.l
  • hotntexashotntexas Posts: 1
    I am having problems with the air conditioning system. When I turn on the air, it comes through the defroster vents, but it is not cold. I was told that there was a way of turning it back on by using the buttons on the stereo(factory). The a/c compressor does not turn on at all. My question is this, is there a way to "turn it back on" by using the stereo buttons? The a/c worked when I first bought the car last November. Then one day I was playing with the stereo, trying to figure out how to change the clock and then it just quit working and now the blower sends nothing but hot air through the defroster vents and the floor vents. Can you help me out?
  • noise prolem was base fitting for strut right front. covered under certified extended warranty. :) link">
  • HI--my only issue with the '05 deville now is the seats--they are not soft leather--in fact quite hard and poor quality for a$47k vehicle. i understand the :confuse: DHS and DTS have a better quality seat.?
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    We had a 95 until about 35,000 miles and a 1997 until about 45,000 miles (?), and the current 2005 (base model with a LOT of options) has about 53,000 miles and the seats are in much, much better shape than the two other cars. The 97 especially had terrible wrinkles on the left bottom side of drivers seat where you slid in/out.

    None of the Cadillacs had/have very comfortable seats. Laugh away, but one of most comfortable seats was in a 1981 Chevette. And, my 2007 Corvette has very comfortable seats.
  • i have a '05 Deville with 52k on it. i am getting a noice like a sqeek from the pulley area driving the serpitine belt. is this anything to be concerned about? :confuse:
  • chadillac541chadillac541 Posts: 1
    edited September 2010
    I know this is probably the wrong forum, but for the life of me, I couldn't find a Seville SLS topic specific forum. So, please forgive me, but I'm in need of some help

    I just bought this car yesterday, and it came with the GM Keyless Entry Remote, but no battery. Does anyone know how to program the remote? I really want to afford paying a dealership for something I, myself, can do.

    Thank you.
  • My wife’s 2005 Deville AC is acting up. The climate control “ac auto, on etc…” is not coming on when the ignition is turned. However if I hit the dash, in the center of the windshield it will run and blow cold, hot, etc.. auto no problems, and run until the car is stopped. Intermittently it will “come on” when the key is turned, it just started. I hit the dash, it works fine. “is this a new feature”

    Seriously, is there something “simple” to do, check, or replace? I am obviously “no mechanic,” but I can hit a dash! My wife however, is much smaller and doesn’t know the “hit the dash technique” and probably better for it. Is this being 2005, is this a motor or module problem or both? If it’s the module that I’ve read about on other blogs, is that easy to replace?
  • i have recently developed -a squeking,creaking noise under my dash area near climate control area. ('05 Deville, 57k) the noise is when i start it up and it usually stops in 1-2 min. Is this a sign of trouble ahead for the climate control system.?
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
  • I have a 2002 Deville and I am loosing coolant from the upper right side of the water pump housing. The location is like a small triangle where the fluid is accumulating and then drips to the under carriage. Went to my mechanic and he looked at it and told me it was the water pump. Now I suspect that it could be the O ring in water pump housing or I am wondering if its the gasket that holds the pump housing against the motor block. The engine is not overheating and the message on the dash states "check engine" on the computer it states "coolant problem" the compression test was good. I am loosing about a quart of coolant every 500 miles. Has anyone experienced this same problem.
  • If any one has similar problem, I found out today that the leak is caused by a poor manufactured water pump cover which wears out the gasket on the housing to make it leak. it is not the water pump. The check engine light is caused by the " CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR" and keep an eye on the front motor mount it breaks off due to POOR MANUFACTURING. I will never buy a CADILLAC and if they give it to me free I will trade it in for a Lexus hell even a toyota. By Recorder
  • For anyone with a 2002 Deville 4.6 engine, I just replaced the two front tourk censors and reset the check engine light then I drove it for 178 miles and the car failed the NY inspection, Then I drove an additional 285 miles and it still failed due to the catalitic converter did not have sufficient time to register. Is this normal for these cars. :mad:
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    On a Cadillac you can reset the check engine codes yourself, both current and history codes.
  • thanks bolivar, I did but it seems that the computer is taking a long time saving information for the inspection, so far I have logged over 400 miles and still it states that it does not have sufficient info to pass.

    By the way how do you reset the engine light? Do I need any special equipment?
    Thanks
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Well, I can't remember a check engine light on any of my wife's Cadillac, but a while back her 2005 Deville turned on the Air Bag light and displayed an error. I went into Diagnoistic mode and cleared all the codes and the error light went out, then quickly came back on. When I took it in, the problem was the front impact sensor was bad.

    You do know how to get into Diagnoistic mode, and view error codes, and then reset them, right?

    If not, you need to google other Cadillac forums. There are ones out there that tell you exactly how to manipulate the controls on your dash and get it to display any error codes that are set.

    This forum does not have anything like this. How to do this takes several steps and differs for different years of CAdillacs. You should be able to google it and fine the info.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    And, I would think if the check engine light is still on, you are not going to pass inspection.
  • maz28maz28 Posts: 4
    hi, i have recently found a 1997 Cadillac DeVille with 63,000 miles for sale for $5,990. I know that this is a really open ended question but can anyone please tell me why i shouldnt buy this vehicle? or problems that may come up and when u think such problems will occur? It's a beautiful body style, it has low miles, and i would say its a great price. Please any info would be very appreciated seeing as ive never owned a Caddy or known anyone thats owned a Caddy. Thanks
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Do you have much money for repairs? This is a complicated car with complex electronics.

    Problem areas
    -Head gaskets leak which cause thousands to fix because heads have to be pulled and special threads put into alumium block. (2000 redesign of motor helped this problem a lot.)
    -1997 should have a recall on ABS brake pump. Check to see this has been done.
    -Solonid for 'overdrive' lockup fails, and it also cost thousands to repair because motor/tranny must be pulled to get to it.
    -High oil use because the high-performance Northstar has been 'babied' and the rings carbon up. Can be reduced many times by wide open throttle application several times.
    -As I said, there are a lot of electonic on the car which can fail.
  • maz28maz28 Posts: 4
    dam u just single handedly crapped on my dream of owning that Caddy, but no lie thank you because i would been pissed if i would've bought it and then things started going wrong, i don't have money just laying around for costly repairs.
    With that being said i don't know if i want to totally give up on owning a Caddy, i just cant get over them haha they're beautiful. In your opinion what would be the best year/model to buy as far as being issue free? My max is $8,000
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    From 95 thru 99 they are essentially about the same. There was some re-design done for 2000 on the Northstar motor. To make it run on regular gas, and different thread and longer headbolts to try to keep the head gaskets from failing so much. 2000 thru 2005 all about the same. In 2006 they changed the name from Deville to DTS and changed body style some, but underneath they are still about the same car.

    I've had, Devilles all, a 95, 97, and now 2005. My wife wants one.

    The 95 had several problems. I didn't keep the 97 very long because I didn't have a warranty on it. When the 2005 was going out of the factory warranty, I bought an extended warranty. It has had a lot of things fail on it. Oh, the headlamp lens also fall off 97. I glued mine on.

    I would not own one without an extended warranty.

    You could offer $3,000 on that 97. Which, in my opinion, is about all it is worth. That is a 14 year old car. And you could look at it as having that other $3,000 in your pocket for potential future repairs. And, don't make an offer if you don't want to buy it, because you just might get it for $3,000.
  • maz28maz28 Posts: 4
    Thank you, one last question for you tho, how many miles do u think i could get out if that 97 with 63k miles that im looking at before it starts having major problems?
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    I'm good, but not that good. A Cadiallic could have a major problem tomorrow or 10 years from now.

    In general, except for the head gasket and oil consumption problems, a Northstar motor is bullet proof. You can try to 'blow out the carbon' for the oil consumption, or just ignore it. Oil is cheap, even if it uses a quart every 1000 miles. A head gasket failure on a 97 - I would sell it for parts. Other than that, 150,000 miles on a Northstar is easy, mechanically. Valves, cam, pistons, etc don't wear out.

    In general the transmission behind a Northstar is also bullet proof. Except for the solonids failing. It has 3 of them. The two shift ones can be reached by dropping the pan. As I said before, the lockup one has to have the motor and tranny pulled to get to it. 'A $40 part buried $2,000 deep' because of the labor to pull it.

    Everything electronic could fail at any time. And look at it - everything is an electric button with a sensor or motor on the other end. Dash, radio, heat/AC, seats, rear air shocks, etc, etc, etc. And the motor and tranny mechanically are very strong, but there are sensors all over both. Crank sensors sometimes cause trouble, but these are on the outside front by the crank and are easily changed.

    The sway bar linkages sometimes fail. Rear air shocks fail. But these type things go on all cars as milage accumulate.
  • maz28maz28 Posts: 4
    man ur seriously helpful as hell. no lie u seem like a beast i wish u were my neighbor haha. So how do u feel about the new models (DTS STS CTS) because i was considering a 2002 CTS, not a fan of the down size but i cant afford a DTS
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    The STS is just a more expensive sedan that never sold well. Isn't it a rear wheel drive?

    The DTS is just the Deville under a 'new' name.

    The CTS, I'm not sure. Wife wants a Cadillac, and wants a big 'tank'. The CTS is smaller, would be fine for me, but she's not very interested. Our small town lost its Cadillac dealer. Two days ago was in larger nearby city, and looked at the CTS-V. Detuned Corvette supercharged motor. 560 something HP. I don't like to test drive unless I really am interested, but I almost test drove this.

    Sell the wife's Deville. Sell my Corvette. Keep my truck. Buy an automatic CTS-V 4 door. (Sticker says it has a $2,600 gas guzzler tax.) Be able to keep all/both (CTS and truck) in my garage. Wife doesn't have much interest in this, starts talking about an Escalade. Not gonna do an Escalade.
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