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Cadillac DeVille



  • I went to the auto show here in Boston last week and the only Cadillac not there was the Deville. I did look at the CTS and STS, but the one I want to buy is the Deville. I bet this time next year, there will be great deals on left over 05's, as the 06 will be the redesigned version. I wonder if they will price it like the STS starting at 40k.
  • boomer1bboomer1b Posts: 348
    Indeed a year old or used current year Deville is a bargain. It will take a year or so for the older body style used prices to drop even further.

    BREM.....I have been setting my cruise control very CAREFULLY ! On my last outing it only varied 1 mph or so............
    Nobody on the Cadillac forums has posted any cruise problems like ours with their cars......
    I think it us not the car !!!!!!!!!!! !
  • sls002sls002 Posts: 2,788
    will remain a V8. So I expect the base price to move higher, perhaps $55,000. A lot depends on whether it becomes a DTS, or if the base model is still what is now the Deville. Cadillac may be moving the D-series up market.
  • sls002sls002 Posts: 2,788
    Except for the fact that the problem seems to be immeadiatly on setting the cruise speed, I would say one possibility is that one could accidently push the set/coast button down while cruising and then the speed could drift down several MPH. I find that I hit the temperature setting button on the steering wheel from time to time. Usually moving the temp down to 60, which engages maximum cool.
  • boomer1bboomer1b Posts: 348
    hEY aLL.........A good place to get a nice late model Caddy is in Fla. !

    If you have cash.....There is a LOT of 1 owner "creampuffs" there. Worth the trip !

    Uncle just bagged a 98 Concourse...Loaded 85k
    1 geezer owned..... $, clean, no snow !
    BUT: Has that ####### roof!

    I have a winter place in Daytona and see a lot of them!
  • Boomer,
    I don't have a solution for you on your cruise control. I can only tell you that my '04 DeVille cruise control works perfectly. It does not vary 1 mile up or down. I might mention that the way I set mine, and this is for efficiency of gas consumption, is I bring it up to the speed that I want to hold before I hit the "set" on it. But from that point on, it takes and works perfectly. In fact, the total car is fantastic. I love it. I would stay after the dealer to fix yours.
  • Thanks Nelson,

    Sounds like your cruise works as mine should work. My 98 De Ville never varied once set. We have only one Cadillac dealer within 65 miles of here, or 130 miles round trip. I have had the car into the dealership three times and they have said it is running as it should, I know from experience they are not correct. The variation most times is one to two miles an hour but has been as much as seven on several occasions since I got the car mid summer of this year. Local dealer wants me back for a fourth time, I have my doubts but may give them another chance. Many thanks for your input on this.
  • sls002sls002 Posts: 2,788
    Has the factory expert looked at it? You indicated at the end of October that a factory representative wanted to have a look.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 17,701
    cruise control do after the initial setting and loss of speed when you tap up the speed 3 or so miles per hour. Does it find the correct speed? OR what effect does it have?

    This message has been approved.

  • Have had it to the dealership three times and they want me back a fourth. I am not sure what the term factory expert means but assume the technicians that worked on it were trained in
    Cadillac systems. They have replaced the cruise module, cleaned various connecting cables and parts, so far without results.
  • Will sometimes correct to desired speed and sometimes after correcting than return to lower speed. Tapping repeatedly seems more effective than holding down the resume accelerate button.
  • sls002sls002 Posts: 2,788
    I wonder if the switch on the steering wheel is send faulty signals. It is possible that a false coast signal is being sent along with the set signal. Perhaps if that switch is replaced????


    The factory representative would have taken the details of the problem back to headquarters, where Cadillac engineers could think about it.
  • Excellent suggestion. I have been holding off as the weather has been pretty cold and wet around here ( my warranty runs until August 2007). I think the switch could have a bearing on the problem. I am really surprised that the dealership has not been able to properly diagnose after three visits. For the moment I am living with the problem which while annoying is not critical to every day driving. I appreciate your continuing interest and will be sure to post follow up news on this issue.
  • I'd like to revisit the engine knock that occurs initially when the Deville is started. I remember several posts giving suggesting for dealing with this problem without mechanical work -- commercial gas treatments, burning out carbon, etc. Would someone knowledgeable mind addressing. I had the problem with a base 2002 Deville before I moved "up" to a 2001 DHS. Love, absolutely love the DHS (lower mileage upon purchase, too -- 25,000, and my 2002 was about over warranty). But the same old knock is there. Any summarized comments on what works without having the dealer do it, since they can't seem to get it done, anyway. Thanks.
  • I get my tires rotated at a tire store. They know how to reset the monitors (they say they do it all the time because more and more cars have the tire monitors -trucks -Buicks, Cadillacs, etc). It just costs the same as a normal rotation and I believe that the tire store has a better balancer than the dealership which doesn't do tires as a major task.
  • My 2 cents worth:Reg. gas in prem. engines after 20K-40K miles can cause carbon build up. Motor Service mag. seen in dealer waiting rooms have had many articles on carbon build up on back side of valves restricting flow. If an engine has these tendencies even tho it will not ping,long term problems can show up. There are a lot of variables.
  • Good point! Although I own a 2004 De Ville which is supposed to run fine with regular, I have always used premium. The few dollars a month extra are well worth the insurance of better performance. Think I read somewhere in Cadillac literature that in order to get maximum performance on the Northstar you should use premium although regular is considered acceptable.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Actually, premium may be more likely to cause carbon buildup than regular. Premium 'resists' pinging more, but actually may build up more carbon because of that.


    If there is carbon buildup, Wide Open Throttle application several times may clear it up. WOT meaning full throttle through the first 2 gears, at least. These are old ladies cars, but if a Northstar is driven 'easily', it will cause problems.


    Some excessive oil usage can also be cured by WOT, which may free up sticky rings which are causing oil usage.


    EGR valve clogging with carbon can also set 'check engine lights', and can be freed up at times by WOT applications.


    If you see a cloud of black smoke behind you when you do this, it means you are doing some good.


    Drive it like you stole it.
  • To Bliver: 15-17 yr. ago when I lived in Illinois a friend purchased a 76 sedan de ville from a lawyer who drove it to work apx. 1 mile every day in the

    Chicago loop. The car had 16K on it when he got it. A momth later the friend drove it over to my house W/ a very bad knocking in the engine. He asked what to do? He took it to the local Cadillac dealer who ran a can of upper cylinder cleaner thru the engine. After the treatment the engine ran as quiet & smooth as can be. I think it was a 500 c i d. and I dont know the fuel being used. My friend kept the car for 5 more years and it ran very well. This had been an old mans car but it was easily restored.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    I've read the factory guide to freeing the rings on a Northstar (to attempt to stop excessive oil usage). It's a lot more than a can of top engine cleaner. It involves removing all plugs, pumping in a special cleaner, let it sit for 2 hours (not 1 hour, not 3 hours, 2 hours), vacumning the gunk out, running it a little, change the oil, take it out for at least a 20 minute run, with SEVERAL WOT APPLICATIONS, changing the oil and filter when it comes back in.


    This is about 3 hours of shop time and the special cleaner. A do-it-yourself of whoomping on the right pedal a few times might save you a lot of money if you are going to be paying for this shop procedure.
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