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Cadillac DeVille

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  • rara4rara4 Posts: 2
    which relay is it and where is it located
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Posts: 10,914
    I don't know - you'd have to look it up in a repair manual. It's also something that should NOT be expensive to have done at a repair shop. That's the first thing they should check.

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  • aconesacones Posts: 21
    My '01 Cadi DeVille (base) w/75k miles has several OBD Codes (P0171,P0174,P0741,P0340).

    (P0171/P0174)- bank 1 & 2 system too lean; I have taken out the MAF sensor & cleaned it (did not look to be bad since all wires where in tact), next I plan on replacing the O2 sensors. My question regarding this is- how many up/downstream O2 sensors does my '01 DeVille have & where are they located? And is it something I should be able to replace myself?

    (P0340)- Cam sensor condition; is replacing the camshaft position sensor something I should be able to do myself? Where is it located?

    (P0741)- TCC solenoid failure; same issues/questions?

    I am simply looking for some help/good advice. I am not a mechanic, but after the dealer wanted nearly $600 to replace a window regulator & I took a shot it myself; completing the job for $65.90 and 1.5 hours I'm willing to try my hand at anything with this car that doesnt involve taking the engine out. Also, I am replacing my own brake pads & rotors (if needed) since the shop wanted $700 for that job- my question regarding this job is if I only replace the front brake pads, do I still need to bleed the rear brakes as well? Thanks in advance for your assistance & look forward to hearing from you all soon.

    A. Cones
    SFC, USA
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    I think you might have 4 sensors, one before and one after the cat on both exhausts.

    A couple of causes of lean. The big rubber connector from the air cleaner to the throttle body isn't sealed well on both ends. Someone pulling on this to get to the air filter didn't reset it well. And, there is another rubber boot between the throttle body and the intake. Unburned fuel and general back flow of fuel after shutdown can pool in this area and rot the bottom of this rubber boot. You can feel the bottom of this and fill the 'soft' area. An air leak here will cause a lean condition. I think its a pretty big job to replace this boot. Actually any air leak past the MAF will cause a lean fuel situtation. It might not be an O2 sensor problem at all.

    The crank sensors (there are two of them) are above the oil filter and can be gotten to and replaced somewhat easily. I'm not sure about the cam sensor, but I think its on the right, front of the motor (front of right head). This is the area right in front of the passenger area, since the motor sits crossways. I think the cam sensor is a [non-permissible content removed], it's an almost flat screw in thing and there is just almost no room there to get a wrench and hand in there.

    P0741 is a tranny solonid code, I think. There are two shift solonids inside that tranny, an A and B solonid, that can be gotten to and replaced from dropping the pan. Failure of these usually causes shift problems. If this code goes with the lockup solonid (locks up the 'overdrive' or torque converter), then you have what I've seen called the '$40 part buried $2,000 deep in the tranny'. This cannot be gotten to without pulling the motor and tranny. You need to research the P740, 741, 742 codes and see which is which.

    If you are going to work much on this Northstar and its tranny, you need the Factory Service Manual. New one can be bought at www.helminc.com , they print manuals for most manufactors. It's not cheap, probably abouot $175 plus shipping. You should first look on eBay for a used one. It won't be cheap either, but less than a new one. Only buy a Factory manual, the others are not worth anything. You could probably buy a 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003 and the mechanical stuff would be the same, only interior parts might be different. You will probably find DVDs for sale for about $30. I've never looked at one of these, they might be very functional for repair, and maybe not. Of course, if the info in these is good it have to be bootlegged from the factory manual or ripped from the factory DVD manual. Anyway, you need a factory manual to do much at all.
  • aconesacones Posts: 21
    Bolivar,

    I've read your post on other forums and have come to truly respect your advice and experience on these issues, thank you very much for the insight. The tranny issue really concerns me though, guess I will simply do whatever work I can get accomplished myself and then send the car off to the shop. Thanks again.

    SFC A.C
  • aconesacones Posts: 21
    OK, I've located the camshaft sensor and your right- it is definitely NOT easy to get to. Wondering if you think it's a good ideal to remove the coolant resevoir to gain better access and a much needed angle down towards the camshaft sensor? Your advice is greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

    SFC A.C
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    I've never dug around there. The tank might rather easy to remove, but it does have 3 or 4 hoses on it, right? Can you see the sensor, sure the wire is not un-attached?

    Does it look like someone has been working in this area before? The coil pack for the rear bank of cylinders is back there, and coils do go out (Had the front one replaced on our 2005). If someone has messed up the wiring loom there, or gotten it pinched, or even gotten the wiring miss-routed, this might be your problem. I think I've read that the sensor wire to the tranny lockup goes thru here and a crimp, cut, or even if the wiring is not routed correctly in regards to the ignition wiring can cause error codes to be set.

    I've done some minor mechanical work - changed belts and hoses, replaced window motor, etc, but I am overall 'afraid' of Northstars. The blown head gaskets and the lockup solonid are real horrors to me. My wife wants to drive these big tanks, and I try to keep an extended warranty on them and get rid of them when warranty expires.

    I've had 3 Devilles, and read a lot of Caddy forums. So, I'm more of a bystander than a hands on person about these things. But, I've read about a lot of issues, and when my old brain is working somewhat, I try to repeat what I've read in the past.
  • aconesacones Posts: 21
    Once again, thanks for the advice. Yes, there are a few hoses connected to the coolant reservoir. I don't think I can gain access to the Cam Sensor from under the vehicle, and there is NO room to work (or see) from the top without removing the reservoir. I will definitely take your advice and check the wiring (once I can actually see it). Either way, at this point I believe I will still replace the Cam Sensor if for nothing else besides the personal satisfaction of knowing that I did not pay someone else to do it. Thanks again, I really appreciate your advice.

    SFC A.C
  • temj12temj12 Posts: 450
    I am reading your post on the '01 Cadi DeVille with interest. I helped my dad find and buy an '01 DeVille. The car was driven by an older man, therefore it had not been abused. It had 68,000 miles. He loved the car, but within 2,000 miles he has found that it uses a quart of oil every 700 miles. The power steering pump went bad. His neighbor, a mechanic, told him the cars were made poorly and were not any good. Since your mileage is close to his, it seems you also have a lot going bad. I have an '09 CTS and my Cadillac dealer service supervisor told me that the '99 to '04 had a problem with oil usage.
  • aconesacones Posts: 21
    temj12,

    My DeVille , like your fathers, also has very low miles for its age and I too have had some oil usage issues. One problem was the electrical-mechanical connection (sorry, I forget the name of the part) was actually leaking oil and causing my oil warning light to constantly illuminate along with that irritating beeping signal. About a week ago I checked the oil and my dip stick came up bone dry even though my percentage read 68% inside the car. Just today when I was under the vehicle I noticed that the panels under the car had several beads of oil so I'm probably going to have to replace some seals in the near future. As long as I've ever known Cadillac's have been notorious for burning oil at an accelerated pace. I'm not sure if my issues are just due to GM quality or my own neglect of the car over the years as it sat still while I was deploying back and forth to Iraq over the years?
  • aconesacones Posts: 21
    Update- I was able to replace the camshaft position sensor on the DeVille today and the process went much smoother by simply removing the three screws and electrical connection to the coolant reservoir. I did not have to remove any hoses as I just positioned the reservoir up and out of the way so that I could get to the Cam Sensor with relevant ease. Next on the to-do-list is the EBCM (I have DTC C1214 & C1248)- any words of advice for me on this one?
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Northstars that 'have not been abused', ie just puttered around in, many will have high oil usage. This is actually a high performance motor and needs driven like that. Even high speed interstate runs will not keep the oil usage from coming on. What happens is the rings will carbon up and stick. Then, it uses oil. It may also carbon up on the top of the cylindar and you will hear a tick like a stuck lifter. Most of the time it's carbon, not a lifter.

    What you need to do is get on a road with no traffic, get the car rolling about 5 mph (no need to start from a dead start), and floor the car. Keep you foot in it, let it hit redline for two gears, you are going to be going about 80mph or so. Let the throttle off and let it 'coast' down. Run it up about 3 or 4 times like this. If done during the day, you are going to see a lot of black smoke come out of the exhaust. Many times this will break the rings loose and oil usage will be reduced. You need to do this about every 6 months or so.

    Use of premium gasoline will make stuck rings worse than regular usage.

    My 1995 went from a little oil usage to instantly using a quart about every 600 miles. A few Wide Open Throttle (WOT) runs dropped it back to about a quart in 2/3000 miles.

    Of course, you want the oil to be full when you do this. Something I've also found with Northstars, they take 7 1/2 quarts on an oil/filter change. This leaves the oil about a half quart low on the dipstick. Don't add more oil, don't add all of that 8th quart. If you do the motor will just quickly pull a half quart thru the PCV valve and burn it. On a change, use the 7 1/2 as specified, and leave it a little low on the stick.
  • aconesacones Posts: 21
    As usual, you have provided some really good insight. I will definitely do my best to get out on some WOT runs (wish I was back in Germany for this). I only use premium gas in my Cadillac and I've never expected that this could actually increase my oil consumption.
  • aconesacones Posts: 21
    How do I know if I have active brake control or not? I'm trying to order a new EBCM but cannot because I do not know where to look for this information. Thanks in advance for your assistance GM Forum.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    The cover over the spare tire has a sticker with all the option codes on the car. One problem, my 2005 has a cover from a Buick?????????? Life and buying a used car is like a box of chocolates.

    You are going to have to do some googling to find the code for this. My guess, unless you have the top of the line model, I doubt your Deville has this.

    It's got ABS and Traction control, but I doubt Active Brake Control was available on a 2001.
  • aconesacones Posts: 21
    Bolivar,

    Thanks a lot, I looked and my car does not have a sticker stating anything on the cover of the spare tire, therefore, I will be ordering the one without ABC. Do you happen to know if these EBCMs come pre-programmed if ordered directly from GM, if not, is it more of a hassle (mechanical and financial) to try and do this job myself? Thanks in advance-

    SFC A.C
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    You looked on the bottom of the cover, right? You might also check inside the glove box, the sticker might be there.

    Not sure about the BCM. Some of the 'modules' have to be programmed with the VIN of the vehicle, and you need a Tech II to do this. These cost $2,000+. A dealer could do this if needed, but it's going to cost you.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    I've got the code software that came with a cheap Code Reader I bought off Amazon. Following are what this software shows for the two codes you listed.
    These don't give much info at all about the codes. You should google these codes and there might be much more info available.

    Were these 'Current' or 'History' codes. With Current you should have a Check Engine Light on. If History, these could be some time in the past.

    C1214 System Relay Contact or Coil Circuit Open
    C1248 EBCM Turned The Red Brake Warning Indicator ON

    You do know how to manipulater the Up/Down, Reset, Display (not sure exactly which they are. On my 2005 these are 3 buttons on right side on the dash) and display all the code that are in there? One of the neat things about a Cadillac. If you don't, you need to google 'cadillac code display' or something like that. There are several sites that have the full instructions about how you can put your instrument panel in a diagnostic mode and see all the set codes, and you can reset all these codes.

    I would consider resetting all the codes, drive the car a few days, or until the Check Engine light appears again, if you have it. This will then give you Current codes that are giving problems lately.

    And if you pull the battery cable, and reinstall it, Cadillacs are real bad about setting a sh*t load of codes, incorrectly. The voltage surges hitting the computer when the cable goes back many time will set a lot of invalid codes.
  • aconesacones Posts: 21
    Bolivar,

    Thanks for the insight. I believe the codes I have are current because after I replaced the Cam Sensor my check engine light cleared along with all other codes NOT related to the brakes. My brake lights (ABS, traction control, BRAKES) all remain illuminated on the dash. I will definitely look up the tricks of the trade for the cadillac DTCs but my auto scanner was unable to clear these codes. All signs point to the EBCM which I have found for $486 brand new (dealer wanted $940 just for the part and no telling how much for the labor). I will most likely take it to the dealer for programming however since they've quoted me $110 even though I know thats pretty high for a simple programming (but they have the tools for that & I don't). As always, thanks for your assistance with these issues- I'm slowly turning myself into a fairly decent novice mechanic.

    SFC A.C
  • Hi, this is my first post. I have a 1970 deville convertible that I am restoring and would be interested in knowing where can I purchase new interior panels for this car. I have searched but have had no luck. I would like to keep this cady original. Please help.
  • aconesacones Posts: 21
    Baretos,

    Try CaddyDaddy.com- good luck with the restoration project.

    SFC A.C
  • aconesacones Posts: 21
    Just replaced the headlamps on my '01 DeVille and there is now a gap between the bottom of the headlamp and where it should meet the front bumper panel. Anyone know what I should use to seal that gap (clear silicone, caulking etc.)?

    As for the other work I was doing on the Cadi- I saved +4k over shop costs by doing the work myself (Window regulator, Cam Sensor, MAF Sensor, Idle Air Control, Outer Tie Rods(2), Brakes and rotors all around and flushing the system, front hub assemblies & the EBCM). Two different estimates quoted me $4200 and $4500 and neither of these included the brake work (additional $700). The biggest portion was related to replacing the EBCM which the dealer part cost was $940 and nearly as much for labor- I was able to send the EBCM off to be re-built (only took two days) for $150 with a 5 year warranty (dealer part had a 1 year). In total, I spent $600 (excluding tools) and gained a lot of knowledge (thanks in part to feedback from you all on this site).

    I'd like to especially thank Bolivar for your assistance through this process, your advice has been extremely helpful and I appreciated every bit of it.

    SFC A.C
  • I have a 98 Deville with 90,000 miles and I started to lose coolant, took it in to a dealer and they said it was a blown head gasket. I think you are right about needing a class action suit with Cadillac. All I ever read about the Northstar engine is that it is suppose to be the best, now at 90,000 the engine blows...that is not right. Anyone have any suggestions? It is a very expensive problem on a very expensive car!
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Sell it to salvage. A 98 isn't worth a head gasket repair.
  • aconesacones Posts: 21
    Just wondering if replacing the valve gasket covers on my '01 DeVille (base) w/ 76,000mi on it is a job I can or should do myself, or if I should pay the $875 (including replacing all 8 spark plugs) is worth it? If it is a job I can do with my moderate DIY skill set does anyone have any tricks of the trade to share with me? Thanks in advance.

    SFC A.C
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    The back 4 spark plugs will be quite a chore to replace.

    Why are you replacing the valve cover gaskets? I've not heard much of anyone having leaks there....
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Just to keep everyone on this forum informed.... Back in time I've related the various repairs on my wife's 2005 Cadillac Deville, which now has a little less than 61,000 miles.

    Just replaced the window regulator in the passenger window.

    This now makes the 4th of 4 window regulators replaced in the last 20 months. Hopefully, with this one, there are now no more remaining to break.

    Obviously a terrible design fault, and something that makes Cadillac a lot of money in replacement parts. And labor for your local dealer. The part is something like $250 or so.

    What I understand, the failure is on a plastic cable that pulls the window up and down. Actually, it probably moves the 'X' shaped regulation skeleton. As I understand, the cable breaks where it is attached to a metal connector. Cable isn't replaceable, the whole regulator assembly is replaced. Guess we are lucky the motor isn't also part of this. I watched the parts man take forever finding the regulator to order. I asked if there was a problem, and he said he was looking to see if the motor was included. I said on the other 3 that failed, the motor wasn't included, just get a right front window regulator ordered in.

    Oh, and looking at the receipt, it looks like something called a 'locking regulator' might have been replaced. I'm going to call and ask about this. The only problem I knew about was the lock/unlock button on the passenger door was 'slow'. Sometimes had to push multi times or hold it down. Only know this because I ride in the car mostly, and the wife has it programmed so the only door that opens when she puts it in park is the drivers door. Keeps the roving bad guys from jumping into her car when she stops it.... According to her.

    Another $50 deductable for this/these repair/s. For all the things that have broken, I'm probably still underwater on this extended warranty deal...
  • WEll here is latest on my '05 Deville,with 82,000,1)rear brake line rusted out,parts & labor$455.,rf wheel bearing parts& labor $471., oil leak, fr. axle seal leaking $168. parts & labor. oil pan leak around the pan bolts,parts & labor332. my ext. warr. ended at 75k. ouch :cry:
  • gmcustsvcsarahgmcustsvcsarah Posts: 1,964
    bolivar,

    I'm sorry to read that you have had so many difficulties with the window regulators in your Deville. Was all of this done with one of our dealerships? Please contact us at socialmedia@gm.com if you should have further difficulties with the window regulators.

    All the best,
    Sarah
    GM Customer Service
  • gmcustsvcsarahgmcustsvcsarah Posts: 1,964
    How is everything running after getting these repairs done, chrisptown1?

    All the best,
    Sarah
    GM Customer Service
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