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Cadillac DeVille



  • sls002sls002 Posts: 2,788
    I know someone who did not pickup on the fact that he had a coolant leak in his northstar. By the time they figured it out, the engine was junk. Not because it overheated either. I think smoothness is designed in. Remember the quad 4?

    Prior to World War Two, Stutz and Duesenberg offered some DOHC engines. My point was that overhead camshafts are not some new design. In the last 25 years the primary advance has been digital computers controlling the engine. Before about 1980, most electronic fuel injection systems were run by analog computers. The microprocessor became available in the 70's, making digital fuel injection systems possible. This has been the really big advance, making variable valve timing possible too. A full blown variable valve timing requires a double camshaft, which is why the DOHC is an excellent device for this purpose. However, GM has found the varing both intake and exhaust valves together, results in 80% of the full effect, so VVT on pushrod engines is possible.

    Consider the 3.9 liter V6 in the Impala and the 3.6 DOHC V6 found in the LaCrosse. The 3.9 has 242 lb-ft of torque and 242 hp, while the 3.6 has 240 hp, but only 225 lb-ft of torque. The 3.9 VVT pushrod is doing very well I think.
  • blkhemiblkhemi Posts: 1,717
    You do not have to have DOHC to get the "full effect" of VVT. Mercedes among others use SOHC in all of their V-6 and V-8 engines. Not only do these cars have VVT, they have VVT-i (intelligence). And they are only 3-valve per cylinder.

    The 3.6L V6 that serves in the CTS and STS makes 255hp. In the SRX, 260hp. So in the Lacrosse, Buick detuned the engine. It has nothing to do with VVT.

    P.S. I do remember the Quad 4. I would agree with a lot of gearheads that it was a horrid piece of machinery. And as for the person that didn't know that they had coolant loss, they either had driven over the maximum 50 miles or they just didn't pay attention to the various warnings that Northstar-equipped cars gives to the owner. It must of been some other on-going problem with the engine if over-heating didn't cause the engine problem as it would take heat to warp the heads or cause internal damage
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    This discussion is specifically about the DeVille. The News & Views board is more appropriate for this type of debate. There may be a suitable discussion there now, but if you don't see one, you can fire one up.

    Let's get back to the DeVille here - thanks.
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    batista, I need you to email me - pat AT Please put Edmunds in the subject line and include "batista" in the message, thanks.
  • sls002sls002 Posts: 2,788
    The DeVille that suffered the engine loss was full of coolant and the water pump was working and the engine was not overheating. The problem was a slow leak in one of the head gaskets which of couse is not obvious by simply looking at the engine. The water pump had failed a year or so before, but as soon as the engine hot warning was posted, he shut off the engine and called for a tow into the dealership. The car was not run hot for any distance. But even so, one or both head gaskets were damaged. The slow coolant leak corroded the aluminum to the point that the engine could not be put back together.

    By full effect of VVT, I mean that the intake and exhaust valves can be varied independently of each other, which requires that the intake valves are run by one cam and the exhaust valves by the other. The CTS's V6 has a variable intake manifold while the LaCrosses does not.
  • marsha7marsha7 Posts: 3,661
    I am an attorney, but that does not mean I enjoy taking a severe depreciation hit on my Crown Vic, having bought 2 new cars in 2004...go easy on my wallet, will ya???...I already have one wife draining it dry, I do not need another,,, ;) :shades:
  • sls002sls002 Posts: 2,788
    The longer you drive any car, the lower the average depreciation rate is. I would suggest driving new cars at least 6 years, and longer is better. However, everyone has their own needs to consider. Fuel costs are really not going to make any real difference, unless you are going to move from something that gets 5 MPG to say 30 MPG.
  • 04cad04cad Posts: 131
    Our 04 just went over 35,000 on vacation and the mileage jumped up over 29 mpg highway. Just getting broken in....
  • My mpg is generally between 28 and 29 on the highway. In my opinion this is a very good fuel economy for a car of this size, power and weight. I have even gotten over 29 mpg if I don't have to do a lot of highway passing of vehicles not going the speed limit. I also own a 2004 Deville with 26,000 miles on it.
  • During its 100 or so years of history, Cadillac has innovated many times in many ways. It would be very timely for the company to now introduce a Northstar engine
    with a hybrid component. I'm sure some will say it can't be done or it isn't practical
    but we might still be riding in horse drawn carriages with that attitude. Many of us get close to 30 MPG with the present Northstar, there's no reason not to believe that we could get over 40 MPG with a Northstar hybrid. I hope the American auto
    industry doesn't let the Japanese win again by failing to innovate with new and improved fuel efficiency. Cadillac has been an innovator in the past and hope they will again innovate in the large car fuel ecomony area.
  • You should buy the warranty through GM. Do NOT buy it through a dealership. Used to be a cadillac salesperson, that's how the Finance Guy makes his money. Get a warranty that goes to 100,000 or 125,000 miles. Research the Cadillac/GM website. MAKE SURE you do NOT get an aftermarket or non-GM warranty they area joke. Be cautious but buy a warranty! Trust me, Cadillacs are great cars but the maintenance is very expensive and the Std. warranty problems start at 90,000 miles.
  • I have a 1998 Sedan Deville that is tempermental, she'll crank but she won't start. Only seems to happen when the engine warms up. I used to have to wait maybe 10 minutes then she'd start now it's about 2 hours I have to wait. If I jiggle to wires on the Crank sensor sometime I can get it to work. Been to the mechanic over 5 times for this. He won't replace the Crank sensor .or engine module b/c he thinks it's something else and he doesn't want to charge me. Sometimes it's a slow or hesitant crank then it turns over. Had an expert tell me it was wires but he didn't look at the car. Starting to get cold here now and don't want to get stuck waiting on my "Moody Deville". Any thoughts? Can anyone help me? Please!
  • blkhemiblkhemi Posts: 1,717
    The 96-99 DeVille was notorious for starting issues. Most that had the problems that you're describing were found to have faulty Fuel Pressure Regulators. My Deville Concours was victim of this. Has your vehicle recently started doing this? Does it fire right up when the engine is cold but hesitant when the engine has warmed up? If so, then chances are you've got a faulty FPR.
  • Could not find anything in the owners manual about when to change. The dealership said they don't remember having changed but on one car. The price they quoted for the new filter was around $ 35.00. That seemed expensive. How are you other owners dealing with this issue? The car has a little over 26,000 miles on it. I opened the filter box and it looked fairly clean. Any input appreciated.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    I also vote for FPR Fuel Pressure Regluator. On the fuel rail, under the 'beauty cover'. Easy to change.

    The 'start cold', 'no start hot' is a symptom of FPR leaking. About $65 part....

    2001 Caddys were the one with crank sensor problems. Maybe also 2000's????
  • blkhemiblkhemi Posts: 1,717
    I'm glad to hear someone knows where the FPR is located. I always thought that it was in the tank, near the fuel pump. Could you please be more elaborate on exactly where it is on the fuel rail assembly?
  • sls002sls002 Posts: 2,788
    I think that it is best to have a GM dealer check it out and replace it. When my 98 Aurora needed it done the cost was about $150 as I recall. I am not sure where under the hood it is located, but I did get the impression that mine was leaking and the leaking fuel was getting into the engine oil. Anyway they did not let me drive the car until they got the replacement and fixed it.
  • geo9geo9 Posts: 739
    Post your e-mail addy in your profile. I can send you a pic and how-to
    check the FPR yourself....................

    Easy to do.........Locate FPR.......Turn key to run position (DO NOT start),
    Pull rubber nipple off FPR.............If wet....BAD FPR !!!!!!!!!

    Then off to check for bad injector isd next step !
  • geo9geo9 Posts: 739
    Pretty sure GM did away with the cabin filter about 02. My 04 chevy truck
    does not have one...............My 01 did...........haven't looked for one in
    my 03 Caddy tho.

    Pretty sure the filter box is still there and one can be installed
  • Yes the 2004 Deville has one, the filter door is on the passenger side of the engine compartment
    near the windshield. I took the plastic cover off today but the filter would not come out easily. I did not use to much force so as not to damage. I used a shop vac. over the top to get what dust I could reach and than took a very slightly moistened sponge and lightly passed it over the filter. Think I got some of the dirt but would feel much better if I could get the filter out and give a through vacuuming.
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