Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Volkswagen Jetta 2005 and earlier

1398399401403404413

Comments

  • cutchaircutchair Posts: 1
    I am having the exact same problem. I have an Integra now with $215,000 miles on it and I love it that is why I was thinking about a Honda Civic because I know they are good cars, but I really like the Jetta so I don't know what to do.
  • kylep86kylep86 Posts: 30
    With what i have read, and comprehend, stay away from 02 and before Jetta's. 03+ have seemed to become more dependable. My friend has an 03 Honda Civic EX coupe, its a nice car, but theres something about a German car. Its hard to explain, but it feels like a much more solid ride. Good luck on choosing!!! :)
  • majettamajetta Posts: 1
    My 2003 Chevy 2500...."add engine oil" shows when down 1 quart. Actually, my 2001 Chevy 1500 had the same thing.

    Question on wife's 2003 VW Jetta 2.0 wagon, 16,600 miles.

    Just serviced two weeks ago (VW dealership oil change). Check engine light came on today. I have not been able to witness yet but looking for any similar stories. No apparent problems.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Leave it to GM to have a "add engine oil" idiot light I wonder if that replaced the all-important oil-pressure light (or was REALLY the oil-pressure light with a differnt name)
    And now there is talk of GM filing for bankruptcy...

    As for the CEL on your wifes VW, that is an indicator that a problem-code has been logged into the memory of the engine-computer. Unfortunatly, It takes a computer to "read" the code so you can see what the problem is.
    That would take a VW dealer or a VAG-COM (software loaded into a laptop computer)

    I still like my Dodge in that respect - turn the key from "off-on-off-on-off-on" (without turning starter) and the console display turns into the diagnostic readout display. I can read the codes from my Dodge in this way.
  • waisunwaisun Posts: 4
    My 2004 GLI (VR6) only get 20 miles/Gallon of premium gas, mostly on highway. My average speed is 80 mph.
  • Hi i have a 94 Jetta III with 130,000 miles on it and i have a problem. I have no external leakage at all, and i will be driving and then my temp light will come on and my car will overheat. the pressure cap lets all the coolant out of the system. I thought it was the thermostat so i installed a new stock temp thermostat and i still have the problem. the water pump is only a year old. also while my car overheats the oil light goes on i suspect this is just from the thin oil from the engine being so hot? please reply, thanks, natewins11
  • 600kgolfgt600kgolfgt Posts: 690
    Do you know if your cooling fan is operating correctly?

    Also, as far as oil is concerned, I would go with a 10w30 or 10w40 during the fall/winter months and a 15-weight oil or 20w50 during the summer. A lighter weight oil in these engines will have the viscosity of water during the hotter months.
  • im not sure if the fan is working correctly...is there a way to test the fan contol unit???
  • I dont know about the fans....is there a way to test the fan control unit??? but, i have no heat at idle if this helps
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    If it overheats while you are moving then the fans have nothing to do with it. (the fans should rarely even come on unless you are sitting still or have the AC on.)

    No heat at idle REALLY sounds like the waterpump is not moving any fluid.

    There is a KNOWN issue of some waterpumps with the plastic impeller not working properly. The shaft slips inside the impeller causing reduced water flow thru the engine. One person reported that his plastic-impellerd waterpump SEEMED to have the impeller snug -- UNTIL HE SOAKED IT IN HOT WATER. Then the impeller would slip easilly on the shaft.

    Since your waterpump is relatively new, I suspect that may be the issue. Many folks recommend selecting a waterpump with a METAL impeller which do not seem to have that problem.

    A leaking head gasket can cause overheating. I also suggest you perform a bleeddown test. This will tell you for certain if the head-gasket is leaking. Most autoparts stores have a bleeddown tester available as a loan. (about $70 kit if you purchase it)

    If a bleeddown test fails -- then you need to re-assess how much you are willing to spend to fix it.
  • I have no leakage of antifreeze in the oil so i dont think my head gasket is leaking but what do you think.....how much does a new water pump cost....i think it is the water pump due to the no heat at idle then when i rev it up i have heat
  • when i put the new water pump in i am almost positive the impeler was metal...i have no leaks of coolant in the crankcase so i think it is the water pump since there is no heat at idle speeds but when i reved up i had heat again...give me your opinion on this new information. thanks, nate
  • dok545dok545 Posts: 1
    I had an 86 jetta with same problem. Between radiator and ac condensor, there was a build up of debris. Like a matt of dirt. Discovered this after I seperated the radiator from its mount so I could get a good view between condensor and radiator. Cleaned the debris away and hosed off the surface of radiator. Problem solved. Worth a look.
  • i just changed the radiator last year....i dont think alot of dirt can build up in that time so i thinks it is the water pump...someone give me a second opinion
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Your assumption about the head gasket not leaking becasue of no oil in the coolant is a FALSE BELEIF.

    A head gasket can fail in many different ways such as BETWEEN:
    outside and coolant
    outside and oil
    cylinder and coolant
    cylinder and oil
    cylinder and outside
    oil and coolant

    The one that you may have is "cylinder and coolant" wheras the pressure of combustion can overpressurize the antifreeze and cause it to spew out... then overheat due to low antifreeze.

    Another sign of a "cylinder and coolant" leak can be a hard-starting engine. This is because after shutting down the engine, the pressure of the coolant can seep into a cylinder filling it with coolant. It is often dificult to start an engine with one cylinder filled with coolant.

    Also, you can pull the sparkplugs and do plug readings. (I assume you know about how to take plug readings) Look for a plug that is wet with antifreeze.

    Another check you can do is open the resivour bottle (CAREFULLY) and look for a steady stream of coolant flowing from the small hose that is plugged into the side of it. That hose should be "peeing" coolant at all times the engine is running.

    Please consider doing a bleeddown test. It will tell you FOR SURE if tthe antifreeze is not leaking internally.

    Being trained as an engineer (see my bio) has taught me to TEST and get REAL FACTS about a problem. Guessing is not the best way to troubleshoot a problem.
  • If its not peeing in the expansion tank what does that mean??? could it be the water pump????is the 2.0 a overhead cam engine????and how much does it cost to fix this??? and is there a way to fix it without pulling the head off of the engine????
  • how much is a bleeddown test and where can i get it done???
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    If not peeing in xpansion tank, then suspect waterpump is not pumping. (Obviously this assumes that you have cooling system full of fluid and has been "burped" of any air bubbles.

    Yes 2.0 is OHC.

    cost --who knows? we dont know what the problem is yet.

    there is no way to replace head gasket without pulling head. (but we dont know if this is the problem)

    Did you even READ MY PAST APPENDS about the bleeddown test kit?. It just temporarrly replaces the coolant cap with one that has a hose connected to a hand pump and guage. It is a LONAR TOOL from an autoparts store. You simply pump to about 10 -14 PSI to the cooling system, then you let it sit overnight to see if it leaks the pressure.
  • i will look for the bleeddown kit but i have opened the expansion tank in the morning after adriving it and there is still a lot of pressure in the system.....i dont suspect a head gasket failure either because there is no lack of power.....
  • please write back telling me what you think.....
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    It sounds as if your coolikng system holds pressure OK. If you are confident that the head gasket is good -- then rule that out and move on to the next possibility.
    Waterpump not pumping.

    First, make sure that the cooling system is filled with liquid and bled of any air pockets. (the waterpump WILL NOT PUMP if it is surrounded by an airpocket) This also means turning the heat on HIGH and making sure that the heater-core is also filled with liquid.

    Do you see the small hose "peeing" into the xpansion tank while the engine is idling? (oftentimes this can even be seen thru the tank wall without opening it.)
  • tomorrow ill look and get back to you
  • ok....if the water pump isnt working...would that cause the cooling system to over pressurize, sending water and steam to spew out of the expansion tank. and doesnt the water pump usually leak when its not functioning properly????? thanks
  • while drving, it will be fine for like 15 minutes then the needle will start to creep up and the coolant light will come on and overheat.....but the needle will be in the middle then get hot then cool off for about 15 minutes before overheating
  • sorry one more thing...while it over heats the oil pressure light comes on...is this because the oil in to thinned out from the heat of the engine???? sorry for all the questions
  • how do you make sure the system is bled of air????
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    You have lots of questions.

    doesnt the water pump usually leak when its not functioning properly?
    No!, just like a head gasket, there are several failure modes for a waterpump. If the seal goes bad, it can leak. If the impeller breaks or is not connected to the shaft, it may not move coolant thru the system.

    while it over heats the oil pressure light comes on...is this because the oil in to thinned out from the heat of the engine?
    That sounds like the most likely case...but it may be somthing else.

    how do you make sure the system is bled of air?
    There are several ways to do this. The design of the cooling system must be taken into account. SInce VW uses a bypass cooling system, it is kind of tricky.
    I usually pull off the upper radiator hose from the engine block and add antifreeze TO THE HOSE as it is pointed into the air until it comes out the engine-block. The cap to the resivour should be LEFT OFF and the engine reved gently-- add coolant as it gets sucked into the system. Oftentimes, it takes several heatup/cooldown cycles to burp the system completely.

    Judging from your description of the problem, you are driving the vehicle BEFORE it has been burped of air. DO NOT JUST FILL THE RESIVOUR AND DRIVE! If you continue to let it overheat, you WILL blow the headgasket and perhaps even warp the head.

    I have some questions for you.
    Does the heater work at all?
    Is that hose on the side of the resevour "peeing" coolant into the tank?
    Does the upper radiator hose get hot ot the touch?
    Do the heatercore hoses get hot to the touch?
  • ok, the heat works while i rev it up.......both hoses you asked got hot to the touch......the water doesnt "pee" in back into the tank, it just drips and i squeezed the feedback hose and i can feel an inconsistant flow......in the morning i will try to "burp" the system but please let me know your conclusions from what i have told you tonight if possible...thanks
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    It sure sounds to me as if the waterpump is not moving the liquid thru the system properly. That small hose plugged into the side of the resivour shoud be squirting pretty forcefully at all times the engine is running.

    I can think of several reasons for low/no flow.
    1) air in system
    2) some kind of blockage
    3) waterpump not pumping (impeller slipping on the shaft)

    Do not forget that mixing NON volkswagen-specified antifreeze in the system can cause gelling and lead to blockage of the small passageways.

    Unfortunately, replacing the waterpump means that the timing belt must be removed. The labor costs to do this job is not cheep and a new timing belt should be fitted at the same time. Many folks recommend replacing the tensionor pully too.
  • i can fix it myself i have done it once before its not to difficult...what is vw specified antifreeze
Sign In or Register to comment.