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Saab 9-5 Sedan



  • pattylpattyl Posts: 2
    The throttle body was replaced only once. The second time the car started to idle really rough the dealer send the connection was no good. The third time I was told there was no clamp holding the hose connecting the throttle body to whatever it is suppossed to be connected to !!!!! Three different dealers have looked at this problem. By the way, the dealer in my city just dumped SAAB and I had to have the car towed 110 miles to the nearest one.Not a pretty picture :(((
  • Hi there,

    I recently bought a used 2000 SAAB 95 (100 K miles) and had the 24 point SAAB mechanical inspection. I had the serpentine belt changed, oil tank leak fixed and oil change. I can't remember if the 'check engine light' was on before I brought it in for inspection, but noticed it a couple hours later after I picked up the car. I brought it in the next day and the dealer assumed it was the sparkplugs so they changed all of them, and it was fine when I picked it up. Then a couple hours later the light came on again. The dealer said that if the sparkplugs don't work then I might have to change the ignition cassette. What exactly is the purpose of the ignition cassette? To start the engine right? Is there a need to do change this? It's quite pricey (they're charging me $500 for it). As far as I'm concerned, my car is in good mechanical order, the engine turns on, hasn't stalled and drives well. So what's your advice? Are there any other factors that cause the engine light to turn on? THANKS!
  • blckislandguyblckislandguy Posts: 1,150
    Was this bought from an authorized SAAB dealer? (Most dealers that I know won't retail 100K mile cars.) If it was, the gentlemanly thing to do would be to put in a new cassette , no charge, and send you on your way. If it was not from a SAAB dealer, then maybe your state has some used car legislation protecting people from immediate problems such as yours. The 100K miles on the clock though might exempt them.
  • Hi blckislandguy,

    No, I didn't buy it from an authorized SAAB dealer. I bought it from a small used car dealer. What exactly is the ignition cassette for? Is it to start the engine? Where can I find out more techincal info on SAAB 95? Currently, my 95 is mechanically sound... the engine runs fine, the car drives well, and all the power options work.

    I made a slight mistake in my previous posting... it's actually the 'engine malfunction lamp' that is on when I drive, not the 'check engine' light. I read somewhere in the user's manual that you may still be able to drive your SAAB but performance may be affected.

    Is it an absolute must to change the cassette at this point? Thanks for your help!
  • ffb13ffb13 Posts: 181
    i have had my engine light come on and off for 3 years now,

    it comes and goes.

    i have had dealers do a computer diagnostic and have been told many different things as to what causes it.but mostly it is related to the di cassette.

    i do carry a spare cassette that i bought from the internet for $ is in the trunk.

    in my case the car now has 85,000 miles and i think that my problems started 3 years ago, my aero is a 2000 model , when i cleaned the engine and sprayed water on it.
    when i started the car the engine buckled so much that i thought i had broken something internally.after a while it came back to normal.

    ever since then the check engine light has been coming on.

    i still get 30 to 40 mpg and today i returned from a 1,000 mile trip delivering 31.5 mpg with the a/c on.
    i mention the mpg because a lower number would indicate a problem.

    hope that this helps.
  • ffb13: thanks for the tip!

    Do any of you know anything about SAAB remotes? According to the manual, once you change the battery, you should press the unlock button 5 times in order for the car to recognize the signal. However, this doesn't seem to work for mine. Any suggestions? How do I tell if the remote is broken or that the car's sensor is not working? How much does a replacement remote cost?

  • ffb13ffb13 Posts: 181
    sorry ,have no idea.

    and one more thing on the engine lite.

    it appears that the lite may come and go as a function of the memory retained .
    but make sure you double check this out.

    in my case i have had the fault erased from the memory twice and it still comes on which may mean that something is wrong somewhere. but as i stated ,so far so good
  • wesselwessel Posts: 4
    No! I have actually put $600 into it in the last few weeks. They finally thought it was the computer system and replaced that with a used one for about $250 or so and I was driving it yesterday and it died again. I have had 3 mechanics in 3 years try to work on it and the current one is baffled. Mine tends to happen in the heat and heavier traffic, usually after 15 miles but maybe 30-40 minutes of stop and go traffic. What codes are popping up when they check your computer? If you want you can call my mechanic at 303-691-9484, Chris is his name.
  • ernewellernewell Posts: 8
    jigga 6886,

    The ignition cassette is important and you do need to have it replaced - properly - to avoid a complete failure and to protect the catalytic converter from burning up.

    In Dec. 2004, at 51,000 miles, my 2000 95 had a complete failure between two hairpin, blind curves on a two lane mountain road. We are very fortunate that this didn't cause a head or rear on collision. In really rough weather, we had to abandon the car - and take up stations uphill and below to warn oncoming traffic that my car was stationary in the middle of their path. The car was eventually towed 110 miles to the nearest open dealership.

    The warranty had expired at 50,000 miles. To their credit, the dealership replaced the ignition module gracious. It would have cost me over $1,500. They promised to reimburse for the tow (which they never did).

    Remember the saying: 'You get what you Pay for?' The engine light started turning itself on and off. A few weeks ago, at 55,000 miles the car failed again - this time on a busy freeway. Problem? The catalytic converter burned up because the ignition cassette had not been properly installed. Gee thanks!

    Another important thing you should look into: Saab Cars sent out a letter on May 17, 2005 to owners of certain models and years regarding a possible engine defect that could cause 'OIL SLUDGE'. Your model is on the list. Saab was offering 'Special Insurance' for eight years to cover the problem. I called my dealership to learn what this is all about. Instead of giving me some basic info; they told me that until my engine fails completely, Saab has no obligation to me. I asked if I had to wait for the car to fail on the freeway and cause a piled up accident to get info on what this 'OIL SLUDGE' problem involves. Answer: 'This conversation is over.' Then the Manager of the Saab Dealership's Service department hangs up on me. Gee, I wasn't asking for a new engine, just a little info! Was that 'Special Insurance Offer' just a rouse to cover up something that should be recalled?

    Two weeks after that conversation, the car fails on the freeway and nearly causes a string of accidents! The cause is not 'OIL SLUDGE' but a burned up catalytic converter.
    Why? Because that same dealership that refused to answer a few simple questions had improperly installed a DI module, which they had replaced gracious because the original one was defective.

    What's a new catalytic converter cost installed? $1,500.

    My car has 55,000 miles on it, has had all the services recommended by Saab and many more oil changes than the # they recommend. There is something not right here!

    I'd advise getting your ignition module in working order! I'm told that having a 'DI module' (as it's called) fail at 100,000 miles isn't unusual; but, at 50,000 miles it is unheard of. Failure of the catalytic converter happens when the module fails, the car starts misfiring (which you may or may not be able to hear), the exhaust gets over heated because it can't leave the vehicle and the converter just burns up.

    I purchased my 2000 95 wagon new from a Saab Dealership - with only 100 miles on it. It's been a most regrettable investment. At 30,000 miles it developed persistent, mysterious oil leaks. The engine was pulled and the head and rear gaskets were replaced at least three times. By 40,000 miles the car's exhaust manifold was blown and exhaust bolts failed due to manufacturer's defects. Once, after having the car for repairs for 42 days, they returned it saying it was a minor problem. That minor problem was that they forgot to reconnect the turbo. The oil leaks persisted and it was back in for repairs within days. At this point I'm thinking that if the car didn't start out a lemon, they are doing a great job of turning it into one.

    Before the warranty was up, I took it in for two extra service inspections - for which I paid service fees. One service was with an independent repair shop and the other with a Saab Dealership. The independent repair shop gave me a comprehensive list of what Saab should take care of while the car was under warranty. The Saab Dealership said it was in perfect working order! I had to threaten legal action in order to get the Dealership to implement repairs that were covered by the warranty!

    The head technician of my dealership once told me: 'Lady, Saab's not going to figure out what is wrong with your car until the warranty is up!' I couldn't believe that anyone could stay in business with this approach. Well, he was speaking the truth and no wonder he doesn't work their anymore!

    My family, extended family and friends have purchased 14 new Saabs in the last two decades (the first one my father purchased in Sweden!) Mine is the only vehicle with problems that smell like a Lemon.

    Jigga, my story is not meant to dishearten you on your Saab purchase! Just protect your investment. Get that DI module replaced and look up the 'Special Insurance' Saab is offering for cars of your model and year regarding 'Oil Sludge'; and, follow their recommendations on oil changes and services.

    Hope your luck is better than mine!

  • ernewellernewell Posts: 8

    Please see response, #1923 on July14, 2005 to Jigga
    re: DI ignition cassette
  • ernewellernewell Posts: 8
    Please see my response #1923 to 'Jigga'
    RE: Need Advice

    I'm fed up with the lack of service, mishandling of service and now refusal of service from my local dealership; and, with Saab Cars giving me the run around regarding my 2000 95 wagon. The most recent problem is the Di module that they replaced gracious (though the car was out of warranty); but, installed it improperly and now the catalytic converter has burned up at 55,000 miles.

    I'm the last person to resort to legal action; but, they are making it hard for me not to consider that to be my best option.

    Any advice would be appreciated.

  • ffb13ffb13 Posts: 181
    about 12 days ago i was driving my vette when it started to stall.
    would idle fine and then on acceleration it would stall.
    it was a total failure or blocking of the catalytic converter.
    this ,it appears had been going on for many years. the car is a 1986 conv. pace car in showrrom condition.
    the telltale signs were a ringing or like loose chain being handled.
    the sound comes on at idle and you can hear it at the tail pipe.
    if your tailpipe has a ringing sound to it ,or similar you may suspect that the cat conv. is falling apart.
    in my case i only drive this vette about 1500 miles per year so it was a slow process.

    my saab with 86,000 miles now, ( just drove it from vt/ct to fla. ) has a slight ringing to it at the tail pipe on first start,so it appears that the process is beginning.

    i do have a spare di cassette with me . but the oe one does not appear to be failing.

    i will look into this
  • ernewellernewell Posts: 8


    I'm apologize for 'rattling on' on this message board about the sobful woes of my lemon scented 2000 95 wagon!

    What I really do need advice on is what is the relationship between a DI ignition cassette that fails because it was defective and the subsequent burning up of the catalytic converter?

    Any advice? Thanks
  • ffb13ffb13 Posts: 181
    i know of 2 things that will damage a cat.

    1) raw fuel going into it

    2) too much heat

    both the above ,i am told , repeat ,i am told ,can happen when you have a bad dic.

    also, and check this one out.
    a failure of a cat conv. is a blockage that does not allow the gases out and they back up into the engine causing too much back pressure.

    when you start the engine go to the muffler in the back and listen to it.
    if you hear rattling sounds that may ,may be , the conv beginning to desintegrate and all that matter then settles and blocks the passage.
  • blckislandguyblckislandguy Posts: 1,150
    You know, for the last four years we've read that Bob Lutz, Marine fighter pilot, blogger extrodinaire, private fighter jet owner, helicopter commuter, ladies man, Saab driver, etc. was going to turn GM product around. Hasn't happened. A week or so ago GM took away a lot of his responsibiliies and moved it into the President's office. Then I see in today's WSJ that GM has hired a Wall St. analyst to come on full time to give the GM President insights into how the world sees GM. This is nuts. What would a Wall Street guy know about how the world really works?

    SAAB wouldn't be where they are today if a real car guy had been in charge of GM product development. The Car Guy's first memo would have been to SAAB management directing (note, not "suggesting") them to call Haldex by the close of business and begin making the entire line AWD. The second memo would be directing SAAB to air freight before the close of business that day a pallet load of the V6 engines to CA to have a 90 day crash program toward hanging a turbo off each bank. (If Audi can do it, why can't SAAB with far more turbo experience.) They could have called a twin turbo AERO, AERO TWO. The kids would have called it an AERO Deuce within 48 hours and sales would have rocketed. This didn't happen and Suburu and Volvo grabbed the winter niche and ate SAABs lunch.

    I'm beginning to thing that Lutz is simply a handsome 73 year old who made too many airplane landings without putting the wheels down. (It is public knowledge that he has done this at least once.)
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    We're here to talk about the 9-5 specifically, not Lutz, not why Saab is where it is today and not GM in general. Have a look at our News & Views board - I'm sure you'll find the right place to pursue those thoughts. :)
  • saaboysaaboy Posts: 23
    i agree wit mr. awd and twin turbo, how come we see audi doing it when saab has been using turbos more?! And the AWD, so not saab, even though saab never had it. Everything else with saabs are reasonable except for the fact that their isn't AWD even optional, at least on the real saabs. I hope GM doesn't think adding a trailblazer and WRX to the lineup will suffice the AWD in saab longings?

    P.S. Sorry host, but just wanted to add that really quick...
  • altbigdaltbigd Posts: 2
    I have a 2001 9-5 with 85,000 miles. At 55,000 miles (last summer) I had to replace the engine due to oil sludge and had to pay $ 3000. I have had nothing but trouble with this car. (worst decision I have ever made) Last week the O2 sensor need replacement - this week they say I need a catalytic converter for $1840. Oops & they will refund me for the O2 sensor. I have smoke coming from the car at start up and and waiting for the turbo to go. As the dealer said would happen with the sludge issue.
    What to Do?
    Can't trade - the resale on SAAB's is awful.
    Any suggestions - I have contacted SAAB regarding a refund - they indicated [non-permissible content removed] wasn't probable.
    Also - is the converter issue related at all to the sludge issue?
  • blckislandguyblckislandguy Posts: 1,150
    While you are a bit vague on details, my impression is that you now have a '01 9-5 with 30K on a remanufactured engine. How complete was the engine that was installed last summer and what was the warranty? ($3000 probably did not get you a complete remanufactured engine and installation. It is too low.) Apparently the engine smokes on start up. You probably have worn valve guides on the engine which at 30K miles is the fault of the remanufacturer. Is the replacement engine still within warranty? If not and if you can't live with it, the cylinder head has to come off and be redone at your expense.

    Not sure what you mean by "waiting for the turbo to go". But if you are having problems with your turbo maybe an independent shop could install a remanufactured-exchange one for you.

    All in all, European car at 4 years and 85K miles will have some problems. But at least when it is running well you have the satisfaction of driving a 9-5.
  • I have seen a lot of reports of problems with the DIC. Is this a problem on all 9-5's or just a specific model year(s)? Please be specific. I am looking at a 2002 and want to know if it will have similar problems. The salesman told me that they are replacing the old DI casettes with upgraded ones that won't be so unreliable. Is this bull?
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