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BMW 3-Series 2005 and earlier



  • brave1heartbrave1heart Posts: 2,698
    My biggest gripe with the A4 is that the air filter is a total pain to replace. I read a dozen of horror stories about the air filter being very hard to reach, and that you need an oil filter wrench that fits and that the filter is on so tight, most people screw it up and get it stuck that I decided it's not worth my time and esp. risk to do it. With the BMW, an oil and filter change is a no-brainer, esp. with a fluid extractor like the one on div2's picture. Not to mention that with the synthetic oil, you only have to do it once ~ 15K miles or so.
  • brave1heartbrave1heart Posts: 2,698
    I'd forgotten how good the Dunlop M2 WinterSport tires are. They came in very handy with the 5+ inches of snow that we already got in the Boston area.
  • just testedout my new dunlop m2's on my new 325i. great tires!. we've got about 10" here in CT. i've forgotten how fun rwd can be.
  • brave1heartbrave1heart Posts: 2,698
    ... just as good at their max speed rating as they are in 5" of snow. Don't ask me how I know :o)
  • efxxefxx Posts: 24
    I've been impressed so far at how well my '02 325i has been handling in the snow. Its handled well after the 20+ inches of snow we got last year in the Boston area and after the ~18 inches of snow we got this weekend and this is with the stock Conti all-season tire.

    After witnessing what my pops went through with his Volvo 760GLE I was reluctant at first to get a RWD car.
  • gordonwdgordonwd Posts: 336
    Being somewhat of an old-timer, when I have my oil changed I always say "oil change and lube", since my old cars always had ball joints, etc. that needed regular shots of lube. Is there anything on the chassis that needs regular lubricating on modern German cars? If not, then I probably will go to the self-changes after my initial included services are over with.
  • I've got an '02 325i, too, and I just moved from CA to NH. It's handling has indeed been impressive.

    Quick question: The manual says to drive the car upon starting, instead of letting it sit and warm up for a while. Did I misread, or is this truly the appropriate action on these cold days?
  • div2div2 Posts: 2,580
    Nope, there are no grease fittings on any BMW built since @1972.
  • the manuals correct. after startup wait a few seconds then drive off keeping rpm's on the low side until the car is completely warmed up. it saves gas, warms not only the engine quicker but also the drivetrain and lubricates the engines moving parts better.
  • ksomanksoman Posts: 590
    most new cars are made to be driven quickly without warm up... in addition to what jim said, it has to do with reducing emissions and the use of storage type catalytic converters.. its true of a number of brands... the only reason to warm it up is cuz it's too freaking cold to be sitting in one sometimes.

    does anyone else thing that when you get into a car sitting out in the cold, the inside of the car is colder than the outside even with wind howling?

  • I have to warm up the car so the interior is tolerable and so the ice melts off the windows.
  • Thanks, guys. This board rules.
  • brave1heartbrave1heart Posts: 2,698
    I have a 40-yr old wall heater in the basement. Even after we had the chimney flute swept, it still registers ~ 26 ppm of CO within seconds of starting it up. The CO alarm that I bought at Home Depot does not go off unless there's been constant radiation of 50+ ppm for ~ 5 min straight or so. I was curious what kind of CO these new cars with improved emissions let out and moved the CO detector to our garage for a test once. Within seconds of starting the car up, the CO alarm registered ~ 35 ppm of CO. Not nearly enough to kill you but I would not leave a car running in the garage for more than a minute tops. I hope that when you warm up your car like that you have the wisdom to at least do it outside. And I also hope that your car is leased because running the engine at idle until the car warms up can't be too good long-term :o)
  • Has anyone seen any metrics re: build quality/reliability of 325is made in South Africa vs. 325is or 330s made in Germany? Very curious as I make my third offer tomorrow evening! Scott
  • ddblueddblue Posts: 117
    My 01 325Ci just passed 39K on the odometer. Since my free oil changes are a distant memory, I opted to buy the Griot's oil extractor. Bought a BMW filter and 6 quarts of Mobil 1 5W30. Took all of ten minutes to do the whole oil change. Very easy. I'd rather do this than take the time to drive it to the dealership, anyway.

    I also did the rear brake pads and sensor. This took longer, of course. About 1.5 hours. Not too shabby. Get yourself a 7mm allen socket, not just a 7mm allen wrench (the shock gets in the way).

    Next: front pads and rotors!
  • How/where do you dispose the used oil?
  • optiopti Posts: 2
    I've leased a 2001 330i which is up.Looking to keep it(purchase price $31,735 cnd +2,000 for x-warr.)or replace with 2004 325i.The 325i is 43,500+freight 1,295. Leasing new car would have lower monthly costs and warranty. 330i still running great and has more options.Which would you choose?
  • Does anyone know if the radios in the BMW 3 series have the option of pre-set radio station scanning, in addition to regular scanning that scans all local frequencies? Thanks.
  • >>>I hope that when you warm up your car like that you have the wisdom to at least do it outside.

    Not a member of the careful readers club, I see. I said "I have to warm up the car . . . so the ice melts off the windows."
  • ksomanksoman Posts: 590
    there are three FM groups on the radio, FM1 for the boss, FM2 for the non boss and FMA for the local scan... atleast on the 2004's...
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