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Annette
For example, in Jan 1970 Road & Track reported on both. 914 with 85 HP weighed 1,982 pounds. 914/6 with 125 HP weighed 2,070 pounds.
The Jan 1972 issue of Road & Track had a report on the ultra-rare, only one US certified, 916. Had 190 HP, 5-speed manual, and 2,000 pounds.
Other reviews included Oct '69 Motor Trend up to the Nov 1974 Road & Track Owner Survey (which had only 13 914/6 owners respond, but lots of 914 owners).
I am interested in a 330i:
Black Metallic paint,
Premium package,
Bixenons,
Autotransmission
(I know the purists will groan, but the city driving with an occasional cell phone call is tough with a manual).
The MSRP is 39985 and Edmunds TMV is nearly the same 39916. Does Edmunds TMV actually mean anything? Does it mean that everyone in my area is paying MSRP? Invoice is 36650.
about the lousy reception I get when tuned into am radio.
My sales person almost admitted it was the "achilles heel" for the 3 series.
The only thing to do is take it into service and make sure everything is connected
and is working properly.
Anyway- I gave up on having a dealer fix it-- they replaced the lower B pillar panels (god knows why), tried the TSB, and it still rattled. I decided to open up the B pillar myself and cover pretty much every surface with self-adhesive felt. This worked for about 6 months, but I've heard a slight clicking noise coming back over bumps and a new creaking noise from the white upper B pillar cover (I think its coming from the sliding mechanism) and I think some of my felt may have gotten loose. I'm going to order a new upper B pillar from BMW (I'm hoping that maybe there have been some design improvements), and do an even more thorough job of insulating everything w/ felt. Why, you ask am I willing to pay for my own B pillar cover? Because the dealers I've gone to are just so incompetent, and tend to break things rather than fix them I've decided to just fix small thinsg like rattles myself. I'm condident that with enough felt and possibly foam stuffed in there, the noises will stop forever. As it is, I only really have noise over very rough roads- but I'd like my car to be perfect and this is the only thing left standing in the way.
If you'd like to try this, here's how to remove the cover (its kind of hard to describe in words, so bear with me):
-Pull up on the right hand portion of the door sill cover -- the inner piece that connects w the lower b pillar cover. Its very tight, and kind of difficult, but you'll get it loose eventually. If you break it, its about $20 so don't sweat it too much.
-With that piece out of the way, grab underneath the lower B pillar panel closest to the front of the car and pull out. You'll hear a pop - don't worry you didn't break anything. DO the same on the other side. You'll have to "unhook" the side closest the rear from the rear door sill trim that it connects with--you'll see what I mean when you go to do it.
-Pull out the rubber/felt door seal that lines the whole door frame-- but you only really need to remove it where it actually touches the B pillar. Do this for the front and the rear. This will make it much easier to get the trim out and back in. The trim isn't held in w/ glue--just friction-- and its not too hard to get off. Again,don't worry, you'll get it back on perfectly ( I did this and am basically a klutz).
-Pull out on the bottom of the lower B pillar and then slide it down and out.
-Now you can remove the top of the B pillar (the part w/ the stupid seatblet height adjuster that makes all the noise).
-remove the 2 black plastic expansion rivets by first pulling the center pins out. YOu can then pry out the rivets. they're actually hardy little things, and despite my best attempts to break or otherwise mangle them- they survived.
-slide the cover down (it hooks in at the top near the roof) and out over the seatbelt (it'll stay hooked onto the seatbelt unless you want to unscrew the lower seatblet mounting which I'm sure you don't want to do. That's fine.
-Now you can play with the festival of rattles inside. First, the plastic carrier that the seatbelt passes through that is ultimately bolted to the b pillar has a lot of play it --allowing it to come in contact w/ the sheetmetal of the B pillar. I believe this is what the TSB tries to address by adding another spacer to move the carrier further away. My solution was just to place some felt on top of the metal where it would come in contact w/ the seatblet loop. Then, go nuts w/ the felt and place it on everything that makes sense-- especially anything having to do w/ the actualy adjuster button mechanism. If you take a test drive of the car withou the upper B pillar panel installed, you'll notice that you won't hear any rattles (assuming you've done the aforementioned fix already)-- which leads me to believe that most of the noises come from the interaction between the seatbelet adjuster and the B pillar cover.
When you feel like you've applied enough felt, you can put everything back together. Its easiest if you put the seatblet adjuster in the top most position and then slide the outer adjuster button on the B pillar cover to the top of its travel to allow you to easily mate the parts back together.
Reinstall in the reverse of installation (i've always wanted to write something arcane and annoying like that), and finally, reinstall your door seals by pressing evenly and firmly.
I know this may sound complex, but the removal process only took me about 10 minutes. As I said, I'm fairly inept when it comes to these types of things, but the shear anger and frustration I felt after a fruitless visit to my local dealer drove me to just do it. If you feel as strongly about it- I highly recommend it. You'll feel "empowered" and may form a closer bond w/ your car . I don't know why BMW hasn't gotten this right after nearly 4 years of e46 production. All in all, this is a very minor issue (of course), but the proximity of this rattle to your left ear can drive you insane unless you listen to the stereo ALL the time. I can't help feeling jaded when I read articles about BMW's sound engineering labs--our cars must've skipped that step.
Keep this in perspective however. A seat belt rattle isn't a reason not to buy this car. And speaking of little things - what's up with the clock setting knob in the gauge cluster? Every other switch, lever and control in this car is pure heaven to the touch. That little knob feels like something from my '74 Gremlin (okay now you know my deepest, darkest secret)!
Of course, the moment I removed my foot from my mouth, I apologized profusely.
Cheers!
My new 330i receives AM flawlessly in the areas were my old S80 could not.
The article is about the 1 series (E81 4 door, E82 Hatchback, E87 3 door sports tourer, E84 Coupe, & E86 Z1 roadster).
"The 1 series will share components (such as the platform and bulkhead, electronics, safety package and drivetrains) with the next generation 3 series range, which is codenamed E90-93) and is due in autumn 2005."
car April 2002, page 21 edited by Hilton Holloway
HOST: I hope I did this correct as far as citing the quatation.
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2022 Wrangler Sahara 4Xe, 2023 Toyota Tacoma SR 4WD
I just have a thing about performance cars being handicapped with an automatic transmission. I realize everyone's situation is different, and people have to make various sacrifices, but that doesn't mean I have to like it.
I learned to drive a manual in college. i have been able to drive a manual for about 11 years. i still stall sometimes from not giving enough gas before take off. I do get better fuel economy than an auto (4 cyl).
Generally, I considered driving a chore. The only exceptions have been in my 325i and my uncle's 280Z (heavy steering, loud engine). Driving is fun only when the car is responsive. I have never felt that driving should be comfortable, especially you are literally driving a missile.
Opinions are good and I generally respect yours. At the end of the day, it is all about us enjoying our cars. I don't like regretting the purchase that I have made. Ford Ranger-big regret, Nissan Altima-worth my money, BMW 325i-a car that I will keep for a long time.
Quite true. Good to hear you're enjoying your car. Just don't expect me to call it a sport sedan.
Frankly, it's really a matter of preference and nobody has to get anybody's approval.
seivwrig: get what you want and enjoy it. who cares what anybody else thinks about it and what they may or may not call your car - It's a BMW - that's important!. It's your car - you're the one using it.
I have both auto and manual cars and I use them as I feel like it.
On another subject: I'm disappointed to hear that the AM is bad in 325's. When I drive on a weekend, I like to listen to football and racing - which are always on AM. It makes long weekend highway trips go much faster. My truck has terrible AM reception - the only car I've ever had like that, and I hate it every time I drive it on a weekend day in the summer and fall.
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2022 Wrangler Sahara 4Xe, 2023 Toyota Tacoma SR 4WD
My 325 (silver, 5 sp, leather, pp, xenons, HK, and rear air bags) is supposedly built in Munich and awaiting final touches, shipping, etc. I *will* consider it a sports sedan, as it will be the sportiest sedan we've driven since our '78 Mazda 626. I thought hard about getting the SP but was concern about rapidly wearing tires, damaged wheels, and seats that may not be comfortable for long drives. Discussion on the board has given me second thoughts about passing on the SP, but it's hot out here in the desert and that seems to wear tires rapidly.
As several of us are waiting for our ships to come in, can anyone sketch the timeline for a car leaving Munich for our shores? How long to port, in port, on ship, through customs, in prep, on the trailer, etc.? Yeah, I know it varies, but frankly it would be fun to think about! Any experiences would be welcome, as would be that BMWNA phone number.
Best wishes,
Ed
Oh, and to get back on topic, I have a prediction on the 330i vs G35 debate. If R&T (I think they're the ones who do these kinds of comparos) does a 330i vs. G35, the 330i will win on the price-independent count, but the G35 will come out ahead on the price-dependent count. For those who prefer to lease, however, I'd bet the price gap narrows considerably, given the 3-er's historically strong resale/residuals and Infiniti's historically average resale/residuals.
Seivwrig: I've kinda got the best of both worlds. I live in NYC and my parents live in New City, NY (A Suburb about 25 miles north of the City and about 10-15 minutes from Mr. Shipo's place in Jersey).
Vkwheels: I'll probably put an alarm with a starter disable, but that's it! If someone really wants my car bad enough, they can have it! LOL! THE CLUB can be neutralized if you cut through the steering wheel (20 seconds) and take it off (please don't ask me how I know this).
burrsr: Thanks man! Like I said, I can't wait! It is the car I wanted all along.
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2022 Wrangler Sahara 4Xe, 2023 Toyota Tacoma SR 4WD
My experience about shipping was as follows:
Shipped from SA to NJ port: Second week of August 2001
September 11
Boat rerouted to S. Carolina: Arrives 3rd week of September.
2 days at VPC
1 day on the road to the dealership
Boats from Germany usually take under 4 weeks on the water. VPC is quick and then the road to the dealer depends on your location.
I have 97 Lude SH. I am moving from it to 325i. It is great car for the money. You not gonna regret your choice.
I will put my lude in the market soon but I am feeling sad now a days. Good and bad new is my 325i is coming from SA so I have to wait more.
Still not bad. Good Luck!!! The fun begins....
Nevertheless, there's something about an unmodified bimmer. I'm getting my 330Ci next week and of course, I'm keeping it off the drag strip. That's for my simple looking Sentra SE.
Hope you stick around!
I totally agree with your point that after 4 years of producing the E46, you figure they would have eliminated the problem.
Anyone gotten a great deal on a 330?
I am trying to decide between the high end being the 330ci, the G35, the A4 and loaded VW Passat for the low end for a 3 year lease- shocking car selections for northern NJ, I know Just at the point now where I want to be able to get a new car every 3 years and just have a little fun on the road.
I love the look the G35 and it seems like it'd be a really fun car to drive but just leery of it being the 1st year of a new model but reviews seem mosty postive.
I have driven other people's BMW's and Passat's before and love both cars obviously the BMW more. What are pos/neg of the AWD option for the 330i in terms of weather and what if anyting you sacrafice when you get the AWD? I don't see it talked about much. I am not a gearhead and a lot of the intricate stuff talked about on here while interesting, sometimes goes right over my head.
I know ultimately I have to decide for myself and I will, but coming from never even owning a V6, I am probably not nearly as demanding as a lot of people looking at these cars so I don't know how much stock I should put in some of the differences based on what I'd ever notice. Price is obviously an option, and the 330xi is the high end of what I can afford but I am just looking for any criteria or things maybe that might help me with how to look at each of these cars stacked next to each other.
Any info would help!
thanks
It's nice to have another fellow so. Cal on the board. I have heard alot of good things about Shelley BMW, sounds like you got a great deal.
In addition you should be able to do a 3er for same or less than a G due to the mass market Japanese cars horrible residual.
I just had an offer last week on my 1999 323i Sport that worked out to exactally 76% residual after 3 years !! I was even suprised..
happy hunting
DL
As an addendum to those posts, my car arrived Stateside yesterday to Port Bayonne, NJ. *woohoo*
You can call BMWNA 800-831-1117, choose option 3, and have your production number or VIN ready. They can usually tell you more accurately what the shipping status is, as well as provide a good estimated delivery date. (thanks to snagiel on the 5-er board for bmwna info).
I dropped off my car in Munich 3/20. Estimated arrival at dealer is 4/19. So that's almost exactly an excruciating month...:-)
Congrats and good luck!
Hspark...Just to stay on topic, what options are you getting on your 325i? How many miles are on your Prelude and have you had any problems (You can email me the Prelude stuff if you don't want to post it!
Thanks again! I know I'll always be welcome here on the 3 Series Thread!
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2022 Wrangler Sahara 4Xe, 2023 Toyota Tacoma SR 4WD
Manual transmission issue-for twenty years,although I could drive one,I always made practical car purchases.I always thought I would actually find owning a stick tedious. I finally got a manual Passat last year-I've loved every shifting mile!
So I would definitely think hard about a manual.
The G35 is a very handsome design-probably the best so far from the East. I wouldn't have first model year jitters,though. That doesn't seem to be a problem with the Japanese brands.
I almost bought a BMW 525i instead of the Passat,but the back seat is a little small,and I was a little concerned about spending so much on my first stick.
Although I am only '6,I do like to sit very upright-I found the 323i a little claustrophobic.
Also,I thought the Passat had a very pleasing softness to go along with the sport the manual transmission offered.
-Good luck with your car shopping.