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BMW 3-Series 2005 and earlier

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  • rshaw11rshaw11 Posts: 52
    I have the '02 325i with auto door lock turned on and I can open all windows and sunroof by holding the unlock button on the remote, or by holding unlock position with the key in the door. You might try it with the key.
  • nyccarguynyccarguy Stamford, CTPosts: 7,592
    Like I said, I don't have experience with BMWs.

    2001 Honda Prelude Type SH/ 2011 BMW 328xi / 2011 Honda Pilot EX-L w/ Navigation

  • brave1heartbrave1heart Posts: 2,698
    It works with the key but not with the remote. I will ask the dealer to fix it. Thanks much!!!

    rpope - it is to "...open all of my windows using the unlock button on my key, so that on a hot day it's a little cooler by the time i make it to my car. "
  • tenet1tenet1 Posts: 354
    This is how it works for me:

    Press unlock once to open driver door

    Press unlock 2nd time to unlock other doors. To lower the windows and sunroof, make sure that you hold the button down when you depress it the 2nd time. Any slippage and it wont work. The button will have to be held down for atleast 5 seconds for it to work. REMEMBER: Hold the button down the 2nd time it is depressed.

    Hope this helps
  • brave1heartbrave1heart Posts: 2,698
    I first noticed that I have the sticky gas pedal last week when we got temp in the 90's 8 days running. I can only feel it when I feather it but it drove me nuts once I discovered it. I scheduled with the dealer to fix it when I bring the car in for my second oil change in a few weeks. They needed a couple of weeks lead time because the parts are back-ordered.

    kp40m - drop the X, get snows. AWD is for wimps (just kidding, erickpl). Not, not really kidding... OK, I'm kidding :o) The snows are cheaper and better than AWD - that will allow you to control costs and the car will likely be more reliable long-term without an AWD.

    upshifting/downshifting - I also find it a lot more intuitive to shift back when upshifting because at that point you are glued to the seat and it's tough to move your body forward...
  • brave1heartbrave1heart Posts: 2,698
    Thanks, I'll try that.
  • abcnycabcnyc Posts: 101
    I confirmed with the service department that the 2 notches on the dipstick indicate the oil levels and not the "bulb". I'm glad I didn't try to add oil until it reached the "bulb". You would think they would put some indicators on the dipstick (e.g. "L" & "F").
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    Uhhh... :)

    dem's fightin' woids! hehehe


    If you have your heart on the xi, go with it. I have mine w/o the PP. I don't miss the sunroof (work in the Mojave desert) and live in the mountains (intense sun). The wood trim I got thrown in, as did I the center armrest (std for 2003). I do miss the power seats as I'm 5'11" and my wife is 5'1". But it is workable. How are you for the SP? That is another area, though I wouldn't get a BMW without it... a subjective choice.


    You are saving costs by not getting a metallic paint and the manual, so that is a plus. Have you considered a 2002 or a 2003? You might save a bit there, but who knows. If you are concerned about being able to finance, don't be afraid to shop around for a deal that works for you. There are several places on the web to get car financing (some here have used them and gotten good rates/payments). You might also consider ED, which again, many on here have done. You can save quite a bit, which would cover the cost of the trip. You can save there by doing a short one (picking up, driving a bit, then returning). Others on here know MUCH more than me about that, though I plan to do it for the next BMW I buy (unless it's a Z4 or one of the new 6 Series coming out in 2004).


    Regardless of what you choose, good luck with getting it and enjoy it!

    You can see my xi at http://community.webshots.com/user/skimblz_ if you want.


    -Paul

    2002 325xi

    SP, CWP, 1/2 PP

    xenons

    Oxford Green/Natural Brown leather

    tint, XM radio, universal transceiver

  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    brave you mentioned that first noticed that you have the sticky gas pedal last week when you got temp in the 90's 8 days running. You said that you can only feel it when you feather it.
    What exactly do you mean when you feather it? Does it feel 'notchy' almost like there are predefined stops along the travel of the pedal even if moving the pedal just a tiny bit?

    -Paul
  • vkwheelsvkwheels Posts: 218
    I've been thinking about combining a trip to visit a friend on the East Coast with the 1-day Spartanburg experience. But I'm very interested in getting details on doing something like this locally too. If you pick a different forum for organizing this, Eric, would you please keep me in the loop? Thanks!

    I've had my car for 2 mos & while I'm not sure if I'd describe the pedal as notchy or sticky, sometimes it is difficult to gauge just how much gas to give it to get moving without jumping forward. Never had this feel in my previous cars, nor in auto transmission rentals over the years.

    Hey maybe that driving school is more than a good idea it is downright mandatory!
  • twoof1twoof1 Posts: 308
    The sticky pedal ALWAYS shows up in hotter weather and is exactly what you guys are describing.
    Be sure when you talk to your service advisor that they understand there is a unique ordering process to get these parts and they must have the VIN when ordering. Mine did not show up the first time I had it scheduled to install because they did not order it properly.

    Brave,
    Try holding the remote button down after the 2nd time you depress it. This should open the windows and sunroof.
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    Thanks for the clarification. I thought I had that issue. Looks like I'll be having them fix the pedal, the annoying seat belt tensioners, plus the 15,000 mile service at the same time. I'm still a couple of months away.

    Is there a TSB or some type of document number I can point them to for the pedal and seat belt tensioners? Shipo?

    vk, I'll definitely keep you posted if I end up doing something like that. I'm not sure if the driving school lets you use your own cars, but I hope so. :) I'd love to have my 3'er on the Streets of Willow Springs! Got any pics of your new baby? :)

    -Paul
  • stokdgsstokdgs Posts: 65
    Hello - Im wanting to find out the factory Insp schedule for a 1994 325i, is there something on the site that can give this to me? Thanks DanF
  • I have a 00 323I, Alpine White with sand leather. It has only 12,500 miles and is in mint condition. I am a perfectionist about my cars and after treating the leather seats with lexol today, I was dismayed when I noticed that the drivers side seat back dye was wearing away on the far outer edge. My back and fanny do not touch this area while diving and it has to be caused
    by getting in and out of the car. Eight thousand of the miles are highway miles put on between Tucson and the midwest which leaves about 5,000 miles of any frequent getting in and out of the car..

    I took to the dealer today and he told me BMW leather is known to have problems and that the factory rep would never ok replacement of the back leather because the wear was not bad enough. I took issue with him and he told me to come back and see the rep who would be there tomorrow.

    Am I being unreasonable? Could I have wear like this with only 12,500 miles?

    I would appreciate any advice anyone can give me and also would like to know if anyone else has this problem. By the way, the car has the premium package and not the wider sport package seats. Hope someone can help before tomorrow.

    Thanks.
  • stokdgsstokdgs Posts: 65
    Hello - Im wanting to find out the factory Insp schedule for a 1994 325i, is there something on the site that can give this to me? Thanks DanF
  • I have a 00 323I, Alpine White with sand leather. It has only 12,500 miles and is in mint condition. I am a perfectionist about my cars and after treating the leather seats with lexol today, I was dismayed when I noticed that the drivers side seat back dye was wearing away on the far outer edge. My back and fanny do not touch this area while driving and it has to be caused
    by getting in and out of the car. Eight thousand of the miles are highway miles put on between Tucson and the midwest which leaves about 5,000 miles of any frequent getting in and out of the car..

    I took to the dealer today and he told me BMW leather is known to have problems and that the factory rep would never ok replacement of the back leather because the wear was not bad enough. I took issue with him and he told me to come back and see the rep who would be there tomorrow.

    Am I being unreasonable? Could I have wear like this with only 12,500 miles?

    I would appreciate any advice anyone can give me and also would like to know if anyone else has this problem. By the way, the car has the premium package and not the wider sport package seats. Hope someone can help before tomorrow.

    Thanks.
  • ccotenjccotenj Posts: 610
    you mean how often or you mean what do they do?

    -Chris
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    Do you have any kind of window tint that provides UV protection? Living in AZ, I would expect that you do, but I will never own a car without having tinted windows that provide a lot of UV protection.

    I'm sure a lot of the wear is from ingress/egress, that is to be expected. But with such a new car, something else may be aiding in the premature wear.

    -Paul
  • ccotenjccotenj Posts: 610
    do you wear jeans a lot? getting in and out of the car with denim will wear it away mucho faster than if you wear khakis all the time...

    maybe a "tad" unreasonable... :) you aren't saying "how much" it's wearing...

    as far as "bmw leather is known to have problems"... ummm... hogwash... it ain't what jag leather used to be, for example, but it sure beats the garbage that most of the japanese cars use...

    -Chris
  • stokdgsstokdgs Posts: 65
    How are you doing my old friend ! Hope all is well with you and yours !. Im looking at poss purchasing a 1994 325iC with 66,741 miles, not alot of information but a clean carfax. Just wanted to know the maint schedule so I can figure out what needs to be done, etc. Is ther something on the web? Seller is not all that helpful but pics look very good. Thanks for responding ! DanF
  • brave1heartbrave1heart Posts: 2,698
    Thanks for your help on the remote unlock. I tried what you guys suggested and it worked fine. As usual, you can blame it on the user (me in this case :o)) I was trying to get the windows to go down with the first click and when that didn't work, I tried holding the key down for the second click but probably not long enough.

    erickpl - The slower you accelerate, the easier it is to feel the gas pedal stickiness. If you sink your foot in, you can't tell regardless of the weather and humidity. When you move your foot slowly, you feel little notches in the clutch travel - mmm maybe about 5-7 notches for every inch of clutch travel. It does not really hinder performance but it is hugely annoying once you are aware of it.

    brislance1 - vanity should be the 8-th deadly sin :o) I hope BMWNA does not pay for replacing leather that is "a tad" worn out prematurely.
  • stokdgsstokdgs Posts: 65
    Yes, you have hi-lited the dipstick correctly. I have never had it just at the H line when going to the dealer, they always put the rest of the 7th qt in and it takes it up to the top fluted part of the dipstick, by the way I have an '02 M Coupe. DanF
  • I need some honest advice before I purchase a 3 series. I live in the Northeast and at times we have poor weather conditions. Different car dealers are telling me different things and I don't know what to believe.

    When did BMW improve the traction control of the car? Were the changes in 1999 or 2000?

    Can you provide some history of the 3 series performance in poor weather?
  • bmw323isbmw323is Posts: 410
    Laurie, BMW has done several different things to improve or add to traction capabilities. On the E46 3 series in 1999 they had only traction control (correct me if I'm wrong) which prevented rear wheels from spinning. Then in 2000 they added dynamic stability control which controls both traction and sideways stability. Then in 2001 or 2002 they added something called dynamic traction control (I don't know how much different this is to the DSC from 2000).

    All fancy words for an excellent traction system. In my opinion, I'd rather drive this car in snow than a FWD. However, I highly recommend a set of good snow tires. And ground clearance is a factor for any car in deep snow.

    I've been driving for over 30 years. In the 70's (before FWD), living in Wisconsin, it was assumed that everyone switched to snow tires in the winter (back then, only on the rear wheels). Today, even with huge advances in snow tire technology, and far superior traction, most people (even in bad weather climates) don't want to buy snow tires. We truly are becoming a society of one-size-fits-all.
  • ccotenjccotenj Posts: 610
    how's that mcoupe running, my man???


    check this out...


    if you are at 66k with it, it should have had an inspection 1 done at 60k...


    if you don't have any service history on it, i'd at least get the brake fluid and coolant flushed, as well as an oil and filter change...


    and of course, as always, have it checked by a bimmer tech before you buy...


    -Chris

  • nyccarguynyccarguy Stamford, CTPosts: 7,592
    "We truly are becoming a society of one-size-fits-all."

    Sad but true.

    laurie, where in the northeast do you live?

    2001 Honda Prelude Type SH/ 2011 BMW 328xi / 2011 Honda Pilot EX-L w/ Navigation

  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    Brave, I assume you mean accelerator instead of clutch. :) But that is EXACTLY what I feel.

    Thanks for clarifying this. I thought I was feeling the same thing, but wanted to make sure so I don't look stupid when I go to the dealership.

    Did you have the TSB number for this so I can refer them to it when I take it in? It's not that I don't trust the service department, but the more I can give them, the less they have to think about it and more likely to get it right the first time.

    Thanks,
    -Paul
  • brave1heartbrave1heart Posts: 2,698
    Yes, I meant the accelerator instead of clutch - thanks for correcting me.

    I don't have the TSB number but twoof1 posted these parts a few days ago: "My receipt shows 2 parts as follows (this is for a step equipped car not sure if it is the same for a stick)
    35-40-6-762-480 Pedal Module
    35-40-6-756-720 Adaptor Plate"

    BTW, I hit the backroads last night and had a lot of fun - it was a nice cool evening, just perfect for driving! I discovered that the only thing more fun than driving on desolate backroasds in the woods is driving on desolate backroads at night with the high beam on. The road was narrow and there were tall trees right off both sides of the road - it was spectacular!!
  • brave1heartbrave1heart Posts: 2,698
    I asked the dealer about fixing the seat belt clicking noise but they told me that the bulletin that is out does not fix the problem and the few times they followed it, it actually made the clicking noise worse. So basically, they don't want to do it. Does someone have the latest on this fix? Thanks.
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