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BMW 3-Series 2005 and earlier

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Comments

  • locke2clocke2c Posts: 5,038
    I find 4,000 rpm and dropping the clutch works nicely, a tad of wheelspin and I'm off. Very smooth.

    ;-)

    In all seriousness, with a bit of practice you can takeoff at any rpm from idle to 3k depending on how you feed in the clutch. Of course you need more gas as the clutch engages-- the engine is now moving the car instead of just freewheeling.

    -Colin
  • Brave, you are very correct about A/C affecting the smooth takeoff's in first gear. I forgot to mention that having the A/C on makes it much worse. Like you, I'm not a big fan of air conditioning. If I'm trying to enjoy a nice sporty drive, the air conditioning gets turned OFF.
  • postoakpostoak Posts: 537
    I haven't found that ANY way of letting off the clutch results in a smooth takeoff. Rather, for me, rpm control is the key. If you let the rpms drop, you are in for a bumpy start. You must "overpower" the inertia of the rear drive train by feeding in ever more power.
  • I assume all this talk off difficulty in first is on 325? Either that or my 330i is abnormally easy.
  • postoakpostoak Posts: 537
    I've been speaking about the 325 -- never driven a 330. But this may be a driver-related issue rather than car issue. Perhaps those who experience no problems have quicker reaction times /better coordination than those who do. If you can react to the drop in rpms fast enough and not overdo then you may not see the problem.

    That said, I've never had such a hard time on other cars. The Passat, for example, I was able to shift seamlessly almost instantly.
  • I know it can't be my reaction time or coordination, so that leaves technique & 325 vs. 330. I achieve the smoothest shift when I let up on the clutch a little before I give it some gas, and just being smooth on both motion.

    "That said, I've never had such a hard time on other cars."

    Test drive an older Boxster. If that was my car for stop & go traffic, I would seriously consider getting an automatic.
  • riezriez Posts: 2,361
    Just got back from BMW dealer. Wife's '00 323iA, which she bought CPO 12/1/01 with 18,000 miles, had the brake pad indicator light come on at 34,700 miles. They replaced brake rotors, pads, and sensors. And since the car has been in service 2 full years, time for brake fluid change. All this done free under the basic 3/36 "free" maintenance coverage. (Her tires were also worn so she replaced all four, which she had to pay for.) She just had the Schedule 1 work done at 31,000 miles. Also free. Schedule II won't be due till around 60,000 miles. Next basic oil change service will hit around 46,000 miles or so.

    So if she had bought the extended maintenance agreement, all she would definitely get would be a basic oil service which might cost $100-150. Seems like spending $400-$500 on the additional one year of maintenance wouldn't have been worth it for her situation.
  • tcn2ktcn2k Posts: 277
    Under regular maintenance, you are covered:
    15k or 1 year - oil
    30k - inspection I
    2 year - brake fluid
    whenever it occurs within 3/36k - brakes
    ? - Windshield wipers
    ? - coolant

    What else is covered under 3/36k miles maintenance program?
  • mr323mr323 Posts: 30
    OK, Brave, "quite challenging" was probably an overstatement, so I'll retract the quite and stand by the challenging. I do have a 325, not a silky-smooth 330, and am 50 (almost 51), but still a decent squash player so the reflexes and coordination aren't completely gone. Your comment about the A/C is very helpful, as I live in Tempe, AZ, and have not yet driven the car *without* the air on. And I do a lot of stop/go in city traffic, so I'm thinking bumpy starts happen because of A/C, tight traffic, and a suboptimal part of the RPM curve...and maybe also not having a 330.

    Best wishes,

    Ed
  • a Z3 2.5 mated to a slushbox yesterday. It's a fun little car, but it needs to be a manual to squeeze all the fun out of it. The steering is noticeably heavier than my 330i, but it's get twitchy over uneven surfaces. The 2.5 engine has plenty of power for such a small car, even with a slushbox.

    It makes me think that me in a M Roadster is a perfect recipe for ending up in a ditch.
  • nyccarguynyccarguy Stamford, CTPosts: 7,467
    You're endorsing a car with a slushbox? You feelin' OK? J/K

    "It makes me think that me in a M Roadster is a perfect recipe for ending up in a ditch." LOL!

    2001 Honda Prelude Type SH/ 2011 BMW 328xi / 2011 Honda Pilot EX-L w/ Navigation

  • No, I said it needed a manual to really enjoy it. I did get to chase the new 745i for a bit. The new 7 may not be pretty, but it's scary fast and extremely nimble. It left me behind quite easily.
  • markjennmarkjenn Posts: 1,142
    I doubt it is the tranny. Sounds like an electronic glitch somewhere: cruise control or the FI system, maybe a bad fuel pressure regulator, sensor, or something like that. It would be extremely unlikely that you'd have a tranmission problem that would clear itself.

    I'd be VERY skeptical that there are not some diagnostic codes left over from such an event.

    - Mark
  • Just found one solution on bimmer.org
  • Just found one solution on bimmer.org

    The moisture from the AC coils will CAUSE the musty smell if not allowed to evaporate. The easiest way to prevent this is to turn OFF the AC about 2 minutes before you arrive at your destination and just let the fan blow (the higher the speed the better). This will dry out the moisture in the system. If you forget to switch to FAN only mode prior to turning off the engine and you will be attending the car (e.g. while pumping gas at the station) just leave the key in the ON position and let the fan blow without the AC. Don't do that for too long though cuz you will drain the battery.

    : SHORT DESCRIPTION OF PROCEDURE: Fog disinfectant into fresh air intake cowl.

    : COMPLETE STEP BY STEP PROCEDURE:
    : Description: HVAC vents smell bad when you are not using the air conditioner and especially bad just after the A/C is turned off. It smells fine when the A/C is on and cold. The smell is caused by bacteria, mold, and mildew growing on the damp air conditioner coils in your dash.

    : Procedure to eliminate odor:
    : 1. Start car.
    : 2. Turn on A/C at lowest temperature setting and max fan speed. Make sure it is NOT on recirculate, you want to pull in fresh air from outside.
    : 3. Open hood.
    : 4. Locate fresh air intake. (It is just under the vents at the top of the hood near the windshield.)
    : 5. Remove filter cover. This involves turning three hand locking fasteners and pulling cover toward the front of the car and up.
    : 6. Remove filter.
    : 7. Fog an antibacterial disinfectant* into this opening where the filter was. Your fan will help draw the disinfectant in and the cold A/C coils will make it condense right where it needs to in order to solve the problem.
    : *(Lysol works great and you have lots of flavors to choose from.)
    : 8. Turn the car off and reassemble it.

    : For best results, but not required:
    : 1. Begin with a dry A/C coil (make sure A/C has not been used recently.)
    : 2. Complete this procedure when car will not be used for a few hours. This gives the disinfectant time to kill off whatever is growing in there. If you run the car and turn on the A/C right afterward, condensation will dilute and wash away the disinfectant, reducing it's effectiveness.
  • I used to love squash back in college. Talk about a great workout while you are playing something very competitive and fun!! I think I'd dented some of the court walls pretty well :o)
  • kdshapirokdshapiro Posts: 5,751
    I drove a manual for 12 years (not the BMW) and I have to say I always found it more difficult to shift with the A/C on. The A/C saps a lot of power. From every review I've read the BMW has a slightly twitchier mechanism that's a pleasure to drive once you get used to it.

    Even in some vehicles with a powerful 8 cylinder the tug of the A/C is very noticable.
  • mg330cimg330ci Posts: 162
    I know what the problem is:

    The irresistible urge to accelerate and let the sweet engine on the 330 sing makes you achieve your desire cruising speed much faster than usually when driving other uninspiring cars.

    The remedy, let go to the accelerator a little (trying to stabilize your speed) before upshifting and then accelerate again. This will prevent the head snapping jerky movements you are describing (particularly when going uphill).

    It worked for me, but you know what... It is more fun to snap your passenger's neck ;)
  • Hi I have a black 2002 325Ci with just the basics (sport package, automatic, and moonroof).

    My questions are:

    1. This model does not have the tilt reverse in the passenger side mirror does it?

    2. When do I use the DSC button (Dynamic Stability Control)?

    3. Would you recommend buying the extra warranty or is it a waste of money?

    Any help is greatly appreciated.

    erasure213
  • postoakpostoak Posts: 537
    don't think my 2002 325i has the tilt mirror feature. Can some tell us which models or which options come with this?

    As far as DSC goes, the owners manual indicates you should leave it on almost all the time. I think it mentioned "rocking" as an example of when you might need to turn it off.
  • locke2clocke2c Posts: 5,038
    I'd turn it off any time you are driving spiritedly, so long as you have the skill and sufficiently cool head to do so safely.

    DSC's Hand Of God doesn't let you do anything-- no yaw, no wheelspin, no nuttin'. If it even THINKS you're having fun or about to, it whomps you back into BoringLand.

    But during daily driving, sure you should probably leave it on.

    -Colin
  • riezriez Posts: 2,361
    postoak... My wife's '00 323iA has the tilt reverse for passenger side mirror. But her car has premium package. Can't remember whether this is standard or part of package on sedans. My '98 540i6 also has it.

    I find it disturbing in most cases and have it turned off in both. You just slide the mirror adjustment selector knob to the right so as to be able to adjust the passenger side mirror and this feature is "off". It is "on" when the selector knob is set to adjust the driver side mirror.
  • is a part of the premium package. Quite useful when parallel parking.
  • automatic basic stuff? LOL...
  • postoakpostoak Posts: 537
    When I was reading the manual about DSC, another type of traction control was mentioned. It was either ATC or ASC. The manual seems to be a one-size-fits-all affair. What is this other type of traction control and who gets it and who doesn't?
  • AST (All Season Traction) controls rear wheel spin during acceleration. It is part of the DSC system... you have it.
  • dax9dax9 Posts: 7
    The best way to safely remove brake dust and road grime from aluminum alloy rims? Anyone?
  • kdshapirokdshapiro Posts: 5,751
    Okay no laughing now! I found the best rememdy to remove brake dust is:

    1. pail of lukewarm to hot water.
    2. sprinkled liberally with Palmolive to make lots of suds.

    I do have to go into every nook and cranny of the wheel with the sponge, but after I wash the wheel off, it sparkles, like I just drove it out of the showroom. I don't even think though it takes more than 1 minute per wheel. That's a few precious seconds to spend making our bimmers look sharp.
  • keeping a coat of wax on your wheels is recommended. if you wash with palmolive, you'll want to rewax.
  • kdshapirokdshapiro Posts: 5,751
    I just can't get into waxing the wheels. All the cars I've owned with alloy wheels come squeaky shiny clean after the wash. The clearcoat that is put on the wheels nowadays really seems to protect them from getting grey from the brake dust.

    If you wax it, can you wash the brake dust off with a garden hose. To me that would be the deciding factor.

    Thanks.
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