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Lexus ES 300/ES 330



  • zippy5zippy5 Posts: 1
    I have had the same problem (VSC engaging on a clear dry road) several times with my 2003 LX470. Extremely frightening. Left it at the dealer for three days, and they could find nothing wrong. Can you provide any more information as to the steps you are pursuing with Lexus?
  • mcasomcaso Posts: 3
    Is there any way to overide the nav by pushing buttons?
  • We need to put a hitch on our Lexus... Can't seem
    to find anything online about towing capacity.
    We just need to tow an open trailer with sides...
    for moving household items. Wanted to do it with
    our 1997 Toyota 4-door RAV4... 4-wheel drive. But
    since the towing capacity is only 1500 lbs,and it
    appears that most of the little open utility
    trailers weight about 900 lbs. already, we will
    hve to put the hitch on the Lexus. Any info?

    BTW, bought this car with 25,000 miles. Now,
    104,000 and never any serious repairs except the
    Nakamichi [sp?] sound system... cd player. We
    have a great after-market warranty. Just renewed
    it for 2 years or 24,000 miles more. So even the
    CD repairs only cost us $50. I think the new
    warranty is now $100 deductible, but still a good
    deal. Love my lexus!!!

    thanks for your help!
  • ivan_99ivan_99 Posts: 1,654
    What is the general consensus on high mileage ES300's?

    I'm looking at a 99 with 140K mile (and an attractive price...private sale). I have yet to drive the vehicle but the photos look like it's in very good condition. I also have to run the VIN but they say it's clean.

    I intend to use the vehicle as a commuter vehicle and will only put on approx 8k miles a year (suburban & highway miles). I need the vehicle to last at least 3 years.

    I've read a few of the posts and the problems run similar to other makes/model (though I'm not sure of the frequency).
  • I have a 03 ES300. I discovered my carpet and underlayment completely soaked. Took the car to a Lexus dealer. They found brown colored paper in the drainage tube. Insinuated that someone must have put it there. I dot believe this to be true. The underlayment stared to mold and smell. I asked them to warranty just the underlayment pads, they said no. The car is out of warranty. But I believe that the clog came from the manufacturing process and finally worked it's way down.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    Pollen filter removed and something got "sucked" out of the glove box...???
  • sean300sean300 Posts: 41
    Hi. I have a '98 ES300 with 152K on odometer. When I move the gear selector from park to reverse I get a sharp jerk and hear a clunk. This only happens when the engine is cold (in the morning or the evening). I took the car to my mechanic who had a transmission shop look at the car. The tranny guy said that there were no codes stored in the computer and felt that the engine mounts were the cause; my guy said that the rear mount was really shot. I was quoted a price of $700 to replace all of the mounts (parts from lexus and my mechanic's labor). A friend of mine sugggested that I wait because he has a v6 Toyota Camry (95), 200k and he said that he has never had a problem with the mounts. Does this sound credible? I have 152K on the car and never replaced the mounts, they seem fine to me. Will it cause any damage if I choose not to replace them? Any ideas would be appreciated.
  • curt2005curt2005 Posts: 70
    I remember finding the info in the owner's manual for my 2005 ES 330. It will be in the owner's manual somewhere.

    The manual on my 330 was not that enthusiastic about adding a hitch because it compromises the crash performance of the bumper. I decided not to.
  • larry1larry1 Posts: 29
    Yes, the problem could certainly be an engine mount. You could take it to another shop, without telling them you were told the problem is an engine mount. Assuming that there is at least one broken engine mount, I do not see the need to replace the other engine mounts that are not broken.

    Your friend's Camry has no bearing on your car. Any two cars will have different problems over the life of the car.

    Don't wait too long. If it IS an engine mount, you don't want to have another engine mount break while another one or more are broken.
  • sean300sean300 Posts: 41
    I took the car to another shop that I use for oil changes and light repairs on Saturday. I described the problem and the mechanics looked at the car. In about ten minutes they called me back into the bays and was shown that the front mount (also known as the torque strut or "dog bone") was bad. They also checked all of the other mounts with the car on the lift right in front of me and said that they were ok (they used a pry bar to check - no movement from the other mounts). The mount was replaced within an hour (had to wait for the Carquest guy to bring the part). I was then taken for a final test ride by one of the mechanics and again there was the hard shift but no clunk when the car was in reverse. He said that the shift was probably an internal transmission thing but seemed to go away after driving for awhile. It was suggested that I let the car warm up for about ten minutes each time before driving and that I don't worry about the clunk/hard shift; he said that it was a small issue that would drive me crazy if I tried to resolve it. So, at least the mount issue was resolved and I'm ok with the small shift/clunk issue - I'll just keep an eye on it. Thanks for your advice and help.
  • larry1larry1 Posts: 29
    There is always going to be a hard shift when you first start up the car and put it into gear immediately. A cold engine will run at a faster speed (revolutions per minute) than a warmed-up idling engine does. This is because the whole system is trying to quickly heat up the emissions system to keep pollution levels down. My 2000 ES300 does that when I start up a cold engine.

    I am glad you got the engine mount fixed and that they demonstrated the problem for you.
  • sean300sean300 Posts: 41
    Thanks for your reply. I am still just a little concerned about the engine movement. I was provided with a sound, reasonable explanation by the mechanic who said that there will be a little movement when shifting throughout the various gears due to the mounts being made out of rubber. Is this the way that ES300 was designed? Also, should I flush the transmission. The car has 152k and I am not the original owner - did a tranny tune-up when first purchased (105k) and dropped the fluid twice since.
  • larry1larry1 Posts: 29
    I am not sure what you are referring to when you say "engine movement", but after replacing the engine mount, everything should be fine.

    If you have done three trans fluid changes in the last 47,000 miles, I don't think you need any trans flush in the near future.
  • sean300sean300 Posts: 41
    What I mean is that there is still an unusual amount of movement. When the car is shifted into reverse or drive (with someone holding the brake) I can see the engine lifting a little and moving back and forth. I went back to my original mechanic and addressed this and told him that the torque strut was replaced; I was also honest with him and told him that another shop checked the other mounts and said that they were ok. He still maintains that the other mounts are still bad and said that you can not tell condition of mounts by just trying to move them with a pry bar because the mounts are hydrolic. I told him that I would reconsider but probably get parts on my own (ebay, etc.). What would happen if I do not change the mounts? Will the engine and transmission drop out of the car? I mean, they lasted 150k miles.
  • larry1larry1 Posts: 29
    I think your car is fine. Look at ANY car's running engine while someone puts the trans in and out of gear, and the engine will move. Enjoy your Lexus.
  • sean300sean300 Posts: 41
    Thanks for your advice. Are you a mechanic? I am just concerned because I need the car to last at least another two years and I drive long distance with my daughter and do not wish to have any problems, especially with the drive train. I know the car is reliable but want to make sure no problems.
  • No, I am not a mechanic, but I have owned my 2000 ES300 for two years and a 1992 ES300 for 5 years before that. (And other cars for 23 years before that). The 1992 ES300 was still running with the original engine and transmission when I traded it in on the 2000. The 1992 had 255,000 miles on it. I think that your ES could join the quarter million mike club eventually. Lexus=reliability, although it is still a man made product.
  • Hi. I've posted a few things here. My question to all is this: if a binding caliper is fixed (cleaned and lubed) is it necessary to still replace the caliper. My mechanic recently unfroze one of my front calipers and said that I should not replace it. What is your advice on the matter?
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    Take the mechanic's advice.

    It was likely the "slider" bolt that was at fault anyway, nothing to do, really, with the caliper itself.
  • sean300sean300 Posts: 41
    Yes, the mechanic did say that the slider bolt was causing the caliper to bind, but my concern is if this will happen again. Winter is coming and I am concerned that salt and other contaminants will cause it to dry up and bind again. I really would like to avoid having to replace the rotors and brake pads so soon again (last ones replaced at 18k miles due to this problem). Also, what will happen if the timing belt is not changed at 90K? I know that Toyota engines are non-interference which usually is good.
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