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--java
You'll need the obvious oil change utensils, 5.5 quarts of 5W-30 oil of your choice, and a filter. I used a Motorcraft FL-820S ($2.69 from AutoZone), it turns out that's what was on there from the factory.
The oil drain plug is a 15mm bolt, you'll need a combination wrench because of tight clearance with the exhaust pipe coming from the rear manifold. There is a shield in place to prevent oil from splashing on the exhaust pipe. Also, access to the filter is made much easier by dropping the plastic tray that's in front of the van (sort of below the radiator), there are 3 - 10mm bolts to take out. Also, if changing it for the first time, make sure you have a good oil filter wrench, that sucker is on there TIGHT from the factory.
Follow the usual oil change procedure. I'm glad I changed at 1000 miles - the oil from the factory wasn't really too dirty, but smelled pretty bad and had kind of a honey-like consistency, I'm assuming from the lube and various stuff they use during assembly.
Also, for refilling the oil, it helps to have a funnel with a long neck on it. The engine is placed far enough forward that it makes it inconvenient to get to the dipstick and oil filler.
Also, I'll have to look again underneath, but now I'm not too sure about mounting aftermarket fog lamps. I was going to use the Hella Micro FF lights, as they would fit pretty well in the factory openings, and have the same clear lens look as the headlights. However, there really isn't a great place to mount them. I could remove the factory cutouts and use the horizontal portion of the bumper just above and in front of the opening as a mounting point, but my concern would be that thay would be too far forward. There's nowhere behind the opening to mount lamps. I'll have to look again, maybe order the lamps and check it out.
I used to be able to reach under my 95 Legacy and change the oil and filter with no problem. No need for ramps or jacks.
Thanks!!
Some folks out there claim they get 18-20 in town.
It's a great van but the gas mileage sucks!
You could go to Lowes or Home Depot and buy a 1" stick of aluminum. They're about 2-3ft long, and cost a couple bucks. Then, you can bend it to fit so that you can bolt it to a couple of metal points behind the bumper. After that, you can mount the fogs securely on this aluminum piece.
I'm just brainstorming. I did this with my previous MPV, and it worked great. Took me about 45 minutes to make the mounts (35 for the first one...). Of course, I havent' looked under the bumper to see what I might bolt to, but there's hopefully enough substance to work with down there. Maybe I'll check this weekend.
--java
I know this may not make your decision any easier, but I wanted to make sure you at least knew about the impending change.
--java
I guess that just shows what Patrick Bedard, Barry Winfield and Csere must be smoking something...again. I've yet to see this article, but why on earth do these guys keep lauding the DC vans, or any DC product for that matter? Their vans historically fare poorly in crash tests, use ancient technology everywhere, they are known for using inadequate components and many people on this board can attest to their lack of reliability.
These guys are way too accustomed to testing and writing about the latest supercar or roadster. Everything they drive just has to lay rubber and send your organizer (or diaper bag) flying into the rear window from the acceleration. Don't get me wrong, I impatiently await the arrival of my next issue of C/D and E/C, but they focus on drag racing waaaay too much. How often do folk actually mash the loud pedal on their minivan? I admit, on a trip to Seward (through the mts.) a few weeks ago, fully loaded, the MPV didn't have the umph of my 300 hp turbo'd Volvo, but I wasn't hoping to make any 150mph runs either (Wow, that'd have been less than an hour each way...). I'd have taken the car instead of the van in that case.
So, would more power be better? Du-uh, it would be. So would traction control, all-wheel-drive, power doors, hydraulic rear suspension, ejector seats and a camping package. It's already an excellent van, esp. considering it's price. Be sure, the price won't be nearly as good with the 3.0 motor in the van.
I'm shutting up now.
--java
On another note, I read that Lincoln and Jaguar have suspended sales of the Duratec 3.0L V6 (which is what the Escape/Tribute use) due to the huge amount of engine failures.
Drew/aling
Townhall Community Leader/Vans Conference
Probably some cost analyst at Mazda predicted low a percentage of demand on AWD. Probably the same reason there's no ejector seats, rocket launchers, detachable wings or an oil slick machine in the van either. (James Bond marathon on cable starting...)
Wow, surprising, your note re: the 3.0 mill. Where did you hear that? That'd probably end the plans of it being in the MPV. Ah, just put the Cobra motor in there, w/awd, and end this talk of an underpowered MPV. ;-)
--javadoc
TB
The 4WD MPV is extremely popular in my area too (lots of hills, inconsistent snow removal). I estimate that at least 7-8 out of 10 of them are of the 4WD variety. It would be nice if Mazda did offer it for North America. My neighbour has a '00 Black MPV ES (with beige leather) and it didn't do so well last winter. Her husband had to bring her up the hill in their MB ML320 SUV.
Drew/aling
Townhall Community Leader/Vans Conference
P.S. I've been watching the TBS Bond marathon as well (right now, in fact).
P.P.S. I drive one of those Grand Voyager LE AWD vans :-) And no, my transmission hasn't fallen out onto the road ;-) Still on my first tranny actually, and at 90K kms. Lucky, I guess.
I drove an LX-V6 AWD Trib last week. I didn't notice any sluggishness. It was downright punchy...laid good rubber, to the salesman's fright! Compare it to an ML55 or something, and it might seem timid.
Thx, Drew, for the good info. TB, hook a brother up! I think I'll be dead tomorrow, from watching Bond all night.
--java
Have some answer, or some excuse in 24hours.
TB
For instance, the 2.5l opposed 4-cylinder in my Subaru Forester apparently outperforms the 2.5l Duratec in both low-end torque and peak power (155 ft.lbs @ 2600 rpm, peaking at 166 ft.lbs @ 4000 rpm and 166 hp @ 5600 rpm) - this means that this engine delivers over 93% of peak torque between 2600 and 5600 rpm, and it does so while meeting NLEV passenger car emissions in all 50 states. I'm guessing that the Duratec can't make that claim, and the overall output numbers are lower to begin with.
Subaru's new 3.0 opposed 6-cylinder makes 174 ft.lbs @ 2200 rpm, peaking at 210 ft.lbs @ 4400 rpm and 212 hp @ 6000 rpm, again beating the 3.0l Duratec handily.
So is it just me, or should more manufacturers be looking at opposed engine designs ? Are the Duratec's getting long in the tooth ? How is it that mighty Ford Motor Company can't produce a competitive engine, when tiny Subaru can ? (I suspect I'm overlooking the obvious here, but I haven't put my finger on it yet...)
I understand that this is a necessarily complex topic, and some posters might rather not get into specifics, but if someone could offer some enlightenment I'd appreciate it... I know there's some guys out there who have a handle on all this.
Sorry for the long post.
Thoughts?
Thanks.
I did think of the Taurus using a similar engine (but not identical to the Lincoln LS or Jaguar S-type) though.
Drew/aling
Townhall Community Leader/Vans Conference
Building an automobile engine requires several trade-offs. Most significantly there is a trade-off between Power, gas mileage, and cost (other areas of trade-off include durability, complexity, noise, required maintenance, etc., with some of these trade-offs closely correlated with others). In the case of the standard Duratec 2.5 it looks as though the trade-off was weighted toward cost, as neither mileage or power are anything special. The resulting engine works pretty well in some cars, but is arguably insufficient for the MPV.
Then why did Mazda/Ford use it? This is where it gets a little speculative. They may have thought it was good enough. This view is supported by a lot of posters here, but clearly there are a lot of potential buyers who don't think so. My guess is that they had a lot of extra production capability for this engine. When you tool up your factory for one engine, it's not cheap to switch to something else if demand is lower than expected, as it was for the Contour. Again, this is only speculation, but when Mazda decided they wanted to use a US made engine as a currency hedge, the obvious choice for Ford was the one with excess supply.
So, a short answer to the question is: They can, but they made a business decision not to. Now they are beginning to question that decision.
Put more energy into helping Mazda recognize their error and stop dreaming about ill gotten gains. You might get a rear bumper plate out of it but peace of mind in a moral choice is worth it!
If in fact there was no way this money was due you by the dealer or Mazda, I would inform Mazda at least three times, since it is a large amount of money, by registered mail. This will protect you if they come back and say you are trying to swindle them. I would also inform them one more time, when you finally pay off the vehicle.
If they don't respond, you are still not off the hook, but you have done due dilligence at letting them know you think they erred in your favor.
I personally don't look at something like this as a windfall, but as a potential problem down the road. Certainly not as much fun, but you will sleep better the night before you go to trade your van knowing this is resolved. Be that night next week or ten years from now.
TB
Spent 2 hours commuting
Spent 9 hours at work
Spent 12 hours catching up on missed sleep (on call)
Spend 1 hour with my family.
See, I promised an excuse or results.
TB
Dennis
The fact that you have tried to correct the mistake is a good fact and the prospect of them ever claiming you tried to defraud them is non-existent (they will only want the money). I wouldn't spend the money, though, because the chances are good they will catch it but I certainly know of instances where things like this go unnoticed (a $2,000 table delivered but never billed --- not me). In all seriousness, be sure you will be able to sleep at night if you close the deal without them having fixed the error. The prospect of dreams of collection men banging on your door may give you second thoughts but shouldn't prevent you from getting your deal on your time frame.
Overall - we love the van - but this is becoming a nuisance with two kids and hopefully more.
TB
Still working on the 3.0L
See more details at: www.contour.org look in the FAQ.
TB
I'd say that Fjord (um, FoMoVoRoBMJagCo) actually did a swell job on the motor, technology-wise. Now to explain the virtues (and anti-virtues) of a boxer engine vs a conventional (inline or "V") engine.
--java
To make torque numbers, you are looking for pure gunt from the engine. To achieve this, you usually do this with an "Over-square" cylinder configuration. Over-square means that the cylinder's shape has a larger height measurement than width (yes, pistons are still round, haha), meaning the piston's diameter is smaller than the crank's stroke. Conversely, "under-square" is having larger piston diameter than stroke.
So, what does this do? Longer stroke, gives you a longer time that the crank on the "Power Stroke." You can have higher torque values, but this is usually at the expense of being able to rev the engine. High torque motors (see truck motors) generally aren't happy at higher revs, since the longer stroke is heavier, and slinging that piston on the end of that long crank and rod creates lot of forces at odds w/one another. So, with a boxer engine, you have two banks of cylinders firing 180 degrees opposite each other, which makes sense for making smooth low end torque.
Here's another example. Mercedes makes engines for their cars, as well as for teams on the CART FedEx series. So, they make a super V8 engine for both applications. The FedEx engine, is only like 1.8 liters, makes 800+ hp (they don't say the real number, prolly 1000+) at 13k rpm, but only 200ftlbs torque. The car engine, a 5.3l motor, makes 380hp and 390ftlbs torque (I'm rounding...). One might say the CART car would feel doggy, but I doubt that could be said truthfully. But, the CART's 0-60 time isn't all that good, considering it makes 4 digit horsepower numbers. (I love the sound of CART engines in the morning!)
The point is, the CART engine has a very very short stroke, so it can rev till oblivion. The car engine has a longer stroke, so it can have good of torque. A car manufacturer designs the engine for a certain appication. Ford prolly wanted a rev-happy engine, as most folks like their European cars to be. That was the point of the Contour, so it fit. This same engine is criticized in the MPV, not because it's a bad, underpowered unit, but because the MPV is 700lbs heavier than a Contour, and would need torque to feel more powerful. I think the van has fine power, it just needs torque.
As to why you don't see boxer engines (such as Subaru, Porsche, old VWs) in every application, is simply that, it doesn't fit every application. For the most part, a boxer engine is a niche engine. They take up more space, width wise, they generally weigh more and can be troublesome due to oiling issues (Porsche boxer engines have dry sump oiling systems). But, boxers are neat and very good motors. They give you a nice low center of gravity, they can let you have a low hood line, and they are said to be safer in a frontal collision.
Yes, there are other factors that determine torque, such as VTEC (Honda/Acura), variable intake runners (ie Duratec), VANOS (gotta love the Germans), VVT (Toyota/Lexus), but these technologies are just augmenting the engine's dynamics; trying to make more power out of smaller displacement.
Not to dispute any claims, but horsepower and torque are different things. TB's graph shows that. The Subaru boxer engine you describe in post #510 actually makes it's peak torque at 4000 rpm, and it's all downhill from there. It is making it's 93% max from 2600 to 4000rpm, which is a markedly narrow curve. I don't know what it looks like on the high side of 4000rpm, so it might hang on a while longer. The 5600rpm number is horsepower, and the two are completely different. The 2.5 duratec's torque curve is actually very flat. Any flatter and it'd have to be an electric motor (max torque at 1rpm and so on).
Whew, sorry. Gotta change the Mocha solution now.
--Java
--java
By the way, how do you hide a response on this board ?
Hope this helps!
Drew/aling
Townhall Community Leader/Vans Conference
-j
Drew/aling
Townhall Community Leader/Vans Conference
I mowed the lawn one last time tonight, desparately holding onto "summer." I'll be sure to pack 60 or so quarts of white fluffy rain in an ice chest and overnight it to you.
Obligatory MPV content...need a mochavan w/awd. Ultimate swap...complete drivetrain swap from a Trib.
Luck to you at your course! I attended a Skip Barber school at PIR way back. Still love that track.
--javadoc