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Mazda MPV

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Comments

  • I couldn't tell you exactly how long it takes for our van (with rear heater) to warm up but it's nothing like 45 minutes. That's with the temps in single digits at the moment.

    How long it's taking for the tranny to reach maximum operating temp is another question.

    Steve.
  • bsvollerbsvoller Posts: 528
    Hey, whoa. Our MPV is a blast furnace within a few minutes with front and rear heaters going.

    My wife doesn't even miss the seat heaters that aren't available south of Canada, and THAT'S saying something.

    The AC works very nicely, too. DW has a comfort range that spans a whole 1.5 degrees Fahrenheit, so I know of that which I speak... :)

    We do have both rear heat and rear AC options, and would recommend them. It's a big vehicle to heat and cool from the dash alone.

    Another nice feature: the front wipers "park" right on top of the defroster vent, so they resist ice build up. Makes a difference. Our Subie has front wiper heaters (in the glass, like a rear defroster) to keep the wiper rubber warm. Works well, but makes replacing the windshield pricey.

    -brianV
  • I have the 4 seasons with the rear air, maybe it is just me then, I know mine is certainly no blast furnace. It is on warmer 30 deg weather. but when it gets down that low, then no. I will give it a couple more days since we seam to be stuck with that weather for a little while longer. I think I just got a bum vehicle all around. I can't imagine that all the mpvs are this defective.
  • subearusubearu Posts: 3,613
    gets nice and toasty in our '02 ES w/ rear heat. It has been in the low single digit F overnight here, low-mid 20's during the day.

    -Brian
  • our '02 MPV is smoother shifting than any other car I have owned. I specifically ordered the 4 seasons package which has the tranny cooler, believing that that would help out with extended tranny life in the 100+ temps we experience here. Is there any relation between the tranny cooler/lack of shifting problem, and the no tranny cooler/shifting problem?

    John
  • No relation. We have the cooler and the shift problem.

    Steve.
  • 4 times now the TCS OFF light has stayed on after I started the car. Twice, shifting into reverse has cleared it; once, shifting into reverse, park, reverse has cleared it; once starting to move backwards has cleared it. Started with the cold weather. When the light's on, pushing the TCS OFF switch has no effect.

    Anyone else?

    Steve.
  • subearusubearu Posts: 3,613
    The TCS will stay lit for a few minutes or so when it's cold. It's explained in the Owner's Manual. It's normal.

    -Brian
  • ...I missed that. It'll be interesting to see how long it stays on when it's 20-30 below. It's about 30 seconds with the temp around 10 above.

    Exact wording from the manual:

    "After starting the engine on very cold days, the TCS OFF indicator will remain on and TCS will not operate until the engine is warm."

    Steve.
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,728
    Thanks for the additional info on the effectiveness of the heater. Looks like the All-Seasons package is the only way to go "up north".
  • tccmn1tccmn1 Posts: 278
    I use Polar Mazda since I am closer to it.
    I bought at Walser in Bloomington before they went away and just handled Mercury's now at that site off of Lyndale and 494.

    Had my recalled fogs fixed...whoopie!

    Tranny has been better in the extreme cold now. Not as jerky...whatever! I'm on the list at Polar to be called when the FIX comes thru.

    Also had the plugs taken out for the speakers in the dash. There ARE harnesses under the plugs for the new speakers I will be installing...cool!

    My driver's seatbelt is not retracting in the cold now! They will replace that in a couple weeks; had to order a new retractor! Geez, just like my 99 Camry issue...what's with the Japanese and poor seatbelt retractors!
  • I had a 98 camry with the seat belt problem, had that replaced also. I noticed the tcs llight, thanks for the info on that. I just hit 1000 miles on the 04 and they are going to look at the heater issue while they have it in for the oil change on Thurs. It does work, it is just a little slow getting there and still does not cook even after it gets there unless the temps are above 20's. I tell you all, this will be the only mazda I will ever get stuck owning. I realize most of you are happy with yours, but this experience has left me quite bitter.
  • Will not operate until the engine is warm? What if you need it before then? This sounds like a half baked TCS system. Secondary roads are plowed after the major roads and it is the secondary roads that people have in their neighborhoods. TCS should be there when you need it, not just sometimes.

    Come on Mazda!
  • So far I've not waited more than about 30 seconds for the TCS light to go off. That's with temps in single digits above. As long as I don't have to wait more than a couple of minutes when it hits -30 I don't care too much. But, yes, ideally there should be no wait whatsoever.

    Steve.
  • rutger3rutger3 Posts: 361
    Dealer says I need brakes. Have an 01 LX with 42k. Want someone else to install as the dealer always seems higher. Anyone else use either Midas, or STS for brakes, and are they okay. Are Mazda brake pads better than others?
  • I would buy mazda pads from internet store and do the work myself. I do not think the disk resurfacing is neccessary unless you have some vibration felt from the brakes. Usually when I need to resuface the rotors I just buy the new set and change it myself. It is still less then dealer will charge you just for pads jobs. I would prefer to stick with OEM parts unless it is a big price difference. Yoy will need a torque wrench, bleeding kit from any auto parts store. The job itself is not that complicated. If you never did it before ask friend for help.
    Tomek
  • Wretched Ford Contour engine! Read this if you have one of the original engines.

    I hope I am one of a few unlucky ones. I have one of the first 2000 MPVs, bought it in September, 1999. It is a 20th anniversary Mazda Miata blue ES.

    The check engine light has always gone on and off a lot. I had it checked out several times but gave up when they never found anything. It would usually go on when I drive uphill on the highway and go off a few hours later. I also noticed that my mileage seemed to be lower than some of the other 2000 MPV drivers. I usually got between 210 and 218 per tank. I think most other people did better than that.

    Anyway last week the check engine light starts flashing. I call the dealer and have the car towed in. I was guessing the exhaust system was shot. Not! They tell me to have some hoses replaced and replace the spark plug wires along with the spark plugs. They pull the plug on cylinder number 4 and it is fouled. The Mazda tech rep happens to be there so he tells them he has seem 3 MPVs with the problem in New England. It is always just cylinder #4 next to the radiator. They run the compression test and yeah, I need a valve job.

    I have 67,000 miles on the car so the dealer is less than helpful and wants $2500 to do the valve job which will take 2.5 weeks because it is the week before Christmas.

    I have decied it is futile to sink more money into the MPV. It is too bad. I really enjoyed driving the car. It was a little more expensive to maintain then I would have liked but it was a great car to drive.

    I really didn't notice any problems with the way the engine was running. What I did notice was that my mileage per tank was about 10 gals less than what I had been getting before. There was a gas price war going on in my town so I thought it was just the cheap gas.

    Looking back, I had to replace the alternator at around 55,000 and two of the stupid alloy wheels. One wheel over the last two winters. Ouch. I live in New England (pot hole heaven) so I suppose that is the breaks. I had the CD player, radio tuner replaced under warranty. There were little annoyances that got fixed under warranty but I still really liked the car. Too bad. I will miss it.
  • Can anyone suggest an alternative to the highway robbery that Mazda dealerships wage against those MPV owners who, like myself, need extra microchip keys? I was quoted by one dealership a cost of $130- the blank would cost $40 and the programming of it would cost an additional $90. What to do is; is there anything more reasonable available?
  • tccmn1tccmn1 Posts: 278
    This was discussed at length months ago, but I just got around to it now. My LX didn't have the tweeters on the dash as do the ES models with the 9 speaker system. I decided to add some high end speakers to my 4 speaker LX unit and found it was very easy to do.
    Those plugs on each corner of the dash have the wiring under each one to just add the Mazda tweeters in their place. I found a source called MAZDA SOUTH out of TX.. Richard is the contact name. Pretty simple approach. I've included the link here; parts@texasmazda.com
    The total for two speakers with shipping was $172. Each speaker lists thru Mazda at $108, but I picked them up thru this source for $83 each. I know this seems a bit anal, but I wanted to add more punch to my system and this really does add 'high end' sound. The speakers simply plug into the same place where the plugs are with no modifications. As stated in earlier posts, the subwoofer addition in the rear is another story and much more complicated to add.
  • bottgersbottgers Posts: 2,027
    bsvoller

    Do the Kumho tires you bought ride any nicer than the Dunlops? Our '03 LX has the 16" Dunlops, and though I can't complain too much about how they handle in the snow, I hate the way they ride. They are a very choppy riding tire. It's as if the sidewalls have absolutely no give to them. When it's time to replace the Dunlops, I'd like to find something a little nicer riding.

    About the heater. The MPV has a very good heater, but the defroster can be outdone by the overabudance of windshield. We took a drive of about 50 miles about a month ago in somewhat of a snow storm with a windchill of -10 deg. I had to keep the selector all the way on defrost with the fan on high the entire time or the defroster wouldn't keep up. Even then, the outer portions of the windshield would not stay defrosted. I guess that much windshield is pretty tough to keep clear.
  • The defroster issues also happened in my camry, as well as the mpv. I think it might just be a foreign car issue, the buick I had before didn't do that. I think it just depends on the vehicle I guess
  • bottgersbottgers Posts: 2,027
    I never thought of it that way, but now that you mention it, I do see a corrilation. I have a Toyota tercel that is absolutely horrible with the windows fogging. If there's more than one person in the car and it's the least bit chilly outside, I have to run the defroster full blast to keep the windows reasonably clear. I can't run the heat (pushing air out on the floor) at all. It all has to be directed at the windshield. The upper half of your body ends up roasting, while your lower half freezes. Our previous car, a Dodge Intrepid didn't have this problem at all and it had as much windshield as the MPV has. I wonder what the deal is here?
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,728
    My '99 GCS has a bigger windshield than the MPV and the defroster has no trouble keeping it clear. My '01 Elantra has one of the most effective heaters and defrosters (and A/C units for that matter) I've ever seen. So it's not a matter of domestic vs. foreign, IMO--it's a matter of design.
  • bottgersbottgers Posts: 2,027
    Design of what?
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,728
    Defrosters.
  • bottgersbottgers Posts: 2,027
    I think it would help tremendously if they would design the defroster ducts to go all the way around the windshield. Then you wouldn't have to dedicate such a high portion of your heater to defrosting the windows. The defroster would work more efficiently.
  • evaddaveevaddave Posts: 156
    Don't forget to set the air source to Fresh, not Recirculate. The MPV automatically turns it to Fresh whenever you select any defroster postition on the heater, but other cars don't do this.

    Also, some cars--most notably those without A/C--don't run the A/C compressor while defrosting. Running the compressor helps remove extra moisture from the cabin air, which is the cause of the condensation on the windshield.
  • bottgersbottgers Posts: 2,027
    Any response to post # 7132?
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 40,805
    Ask in real time, Bottgers - the Mazda chat just started. Link's on the left.

    Steve, Host

    Moderator
    Need help navigating? stever@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

  • bottgersbottgers Posts: 2,027
    ......was getting good tonight in the Mazda chat room, everybody left. What gives?
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