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Mazda MPV

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Comments

  • jipsterjipster Posts: 5,345
    My wife really likes our 2004 MPV LX with around 68k miles. We would also look into buying a new one if they were still available. They really are a one of a kind minivan. Excellent quality. I think if Mazda brought it back, currently being sold in Japan, with better mpg, it would be a sales winner.
  • tcc21tcc21 Posts: 69
    I have a 2003 MPV and wanted to replace the burned out light in the rear heater/AC control panel in the back area. Found out you cannot replace the bulb in it. You need to BUY A WHOLE NEW ASSEMBLY for $170 - part only!!! Another dumb thing about these great little minivans! I'm not sold on the 'quality' aspect of these. I have 130K miles on mine and there have been some quirky things thru the years; the tranny, the catalytic converter going out, the water problems with a poor design of the coils/spark plug covers, bulb replacement issues - rear license plate - tear door apart to replace! Front suspension total replacement. Etc, Etc. Sorry, I'm not a believer in 'bring back the MPV to USA motto. I had two Dodge Caravans in the 90's and they were similar in quality to this unit overall. Oh yes, the premature rusting of the front door on the bottom and around the rear wheel wells!
  • jipsterjipster Posts: 5,345
    I have 130K miles

    That's a lot of miles for any car. The burned out light in the back area... not really needed. Agree coils were poorly designed... mechanically does have a few problem areas (mostly minor). Overall quality of materials, fit and finish, ride, handling are far above the Dodge Caravan.. and at least equal to that of the Sienna and Ody.

    Other than having 2 coils replaced under warranty, our MPV has been problem free (knock on wood). Still on original set of brakes. The good thing about future generations of any car or van is they have a chance to correct those problem areas.
    So, bringing the current generation of MPV to the U.S would be a good idea, provided they can increase mpg as noted in previous post.
  • aa0526aa0526 Posts: 27
    I have 133K miles ... drove it cross country at 122K.

    The problems I had are not minor - and have been due to 'wear'.
    1. Mass Airflow Sensor
    - This was frequenty misdiagnosed by many technicians as O2 sensor, coils, tranny etc. My friend's Sienna has his MAF frequently cleaned ... but after two cleanings, I finally replaced mine ... and the car runs like new again.

    2. Control Fan PCU assembly
    - There was a recall on this which I did avail of. So the lifespan of my control fan PCU is really only 70K ... which is on the low side but still attributable to the regular lifespan of an electronic pcu.
    - Now the car runs very quietly ... no more of the engine fan turning on/off which was quite noisy.

    BTW - 1 and 2 were replaced at 115K and 126K miles.

    Other than that - the rest were the regular maintenance issues.
    - Brakes - will have them replaced this week
    - Shocks and struts - will probably need one soon
    - Car battery
    - Spark plugs - replaced at

    I do use Mobil1 and do follow a 6,000-7,5000 mile interval.
  • tcc21tcc21 Posts: 69
    Thanks for the reply. However, I don't think 130K miles is a lot of miles on any car these days. I have many friends who think that it's in mid life at this point. Most are going for 200K miles. I guess I don't have friends who can replace cars every couple years like I use to. Kids in college, etc. Anyway; I do think it's nuts that you need to replace the whole assembly to have the control panel lit. My passengers in back can't find the controls during our long dark MN. winters! The Tranny issues, CATALYTIC CONVERTER REPLACEMENT? (minor?) are not reasonable issues. That coil design is not a cheap fix either and I hold my breath during every rain storm I drive in for it to happen again! 2003 was the 4th year of this unit and should have had some refinement by then. True the 2002 was the first year of the slightly revised model - new engine, front/back cosmetics and tranny.....but still! Don't get me wrong, the styling was why I bought the unit NEW over Toyota and Honda - plus it was $3K cheaper too. Maybe this is why? I'm hoping to get to 190K if possible. My Camry's - two of - had flipped the 200 mark and were good to go before I sold them.
  • tcc21tcc21 Posts: 69
    One more thing; the rust. My MPV showed signs of rust on the passenger lower lip within the first 24 months! Mazda did cover it with a lot of groaning at that time. They said that I would be on my own thereafter. Now, I may be picky, but rust on today's cars is becoming a very seldom thing. To have a virtually new car have the rust issues around those terrible joints in the metal and around the rear wheel wells is not right! I see many other MPV's from the 2000-2003 era here in MN. with rust in that wheel area. Sad method they used to wrap the metal in the lip of the well.

    Oh yes - one more item I've had - the rear heating coolant tubes that rusted totally away!! Mazda did cover their replacement but what the heck! When we pulled the liner out of the rear well we did not see ANYTHING there - the tubing was all gone! What are they thinking? I was losing coolant out the back for a while before I saw this item as a recall!
  • the driver side window just stop working. what do i do to fix it.
  • aa0526aa0526 Posts: 27
    Sorry ... my 2002 MPV has not had that problem ... well, I hardly use the windows anyway.

    But that sounds like an actuator issue or could be mechanical.
    Do u hear a sound when u press the up/down button?
    Are the gears engaging at all?

    If there is no activity at all, then the issue is not mechanical.
  • tcc21tcc21 Posts: 69
    My 2003 MPV's drivers window is VERY slow in the winter time - at going up. I had them check it a couple years ago and the dealer said it was the old 'normal' thing! Ugh! I swear some cold mornings - as I park in a ramp - mine won't go up either. It groans really hard. I heard that some Toyota Sienna's have had the same issue too!! WOW! The previous generation version. So, Mazda is not alone.
    I checked an 06 they had on the lot and it was a bit slow too...so it's the way they're made I guess.
  • My 2003 Mazda MPV ES with 88,700 miles on it has started idling very rough, but only when warmed up. It starts in the cold fine and runs great after that, except for idling. My check engine light is on and the codes are P0171 and P0174, System Too Lean Bank 1 and Bank 2.

    The Auto Zone guy (who read the codes for me) told me it is probably the O2 sensors but another forum said it might be a vacuum leak. Thoughts?
  • jipsterjipster Posts: 5,345
    Sounds like the idle air control valve to me. If so may just need a good cleaning.
  • aa0526aa0526 Posts: 27
    I had that same error codes way back.

    Initially - they thought it was the O2 sensor. The MPV has two ... one before the catalytic converter - and one after it. Combined, they cost about <$200.00.

    However, further testing and pleading from me showed something else instead.

    The MAF - mass air flow sensor was dirty. We thought it needed replacement - which was not too expensive. The tech guy simply cleaned it and the error codes never came back.

    About 15-20K miles later, slightly same error codes came back ---
    1. The EGR - hose / valve (made of rubber or PVC) was in need of replacement (again). It was initially replaced at 35K due to a recall. It was again worn out - the part was about <$70 but the labor was relatively high.Check the Mazda MPV recall history on this one. I am might be wrong about the exact name.

    2. The MAF needed replacement. I cleaned it on more than one occasion but at 120K mileage - I think it was beyond its useful life - so I replaced it.

    The problem has not come back since - am now at 132K.

    I did notice that all these problems crop up during the cold winter months ...
  • subearusubearu Posts: 3,613
    Yep, that issue sounds just like what our '02 is currently doing...although not today. I am now expecting the mechanic to find the PCV hose ruptured. Guess if that's the case, it lasted 5 years (or about 50k miles) in our case.

    -Brian
  • tcc21tcc21 Posts: 69
    I have had that happen when it rains heavy or I drive in a rain storm. The front spark plug wire get's water seaping into it and the light comes on and it bucks real bad. After a day, it dries out and all fine. I know I could replace that cap/wire but it's not cheap. Those other replies are all similar to what I have otherwise although I didn't experience rough running with the catalytic mess or other items. Just the moisture problem. Been doing it since it was new too.
  • once_for_allonce_for_all Posts: 1,640
    I've had code P0171 a couple times, it has always turned out to be the Mass Air Flow sensor. There are a couple fine spring looking coils in the MAF that need to get sprayed with "mass air flow sensor cleaner".

    The MAF is just downstream of the air filter. It can get lint and so forth from a new air cleaner.

    But, your rough idle could also be due to the PVC hose collapsing and cracking (which creates a vacuum leak, and a lean condition). That hose can be about a $100 item...I've had to do mine twice in 88k miles, once as a dealer recall, once on my own wallet.

    John
  • once_for_allonce_for_all Posts: 1,640
    anyone attempt to change these? I've got an '03 with 88,000, it threw a code misfire P0301 (misfire cylinder one) last week and is not running as smooth as normal. I'm guessing it's due for an early spark plug/plug boot replacement.

    What plugs are you using? Rock Auto shows a bunch of options, looks like Bosch has an expensive Iridium replacement, super long life, etc...

    John
  • jipsterjipster Posts: 5,345
    Could be the coil. I've read the best plug for the MPV is the OEM plug, Motorcraft or the NKG plug. Too bad on the 301 code, that's a hard one to get to.
  • once_for_allonce_for_all Posts: 1,640
    thanks for the reply...and thanks also to this board, I spent a couple hours on the MPVclub web site and read all about how to get at the coils. It actually sounds less daunting than I originally thought...I'll pick up 3 coils (for the back), and 6 plugs, and call it good for now.

    Also might be rain related, it misfired and flashed the code last week during a big rain storm. As I learned, apparently the back coil packs can get wet. It's running fine again now that it has dried out.

    John
  • jipsterjipster Posts: 5,345
    Glad to hear the MPV is running better. I had a front coil run rough when I ran over a large water puddle on the expressway. The second bad coil... had been raining for a few days. Both were covered under warranty. I've read some people say that their van ran fine again after drying out. How long did you have to air your MPV out?
  • once_for_allonce_for_all Posts: 1,640
    the misfire wasn't consistent from the get go, it threw the code and seemed to run ok after that, but not smooth.

    I made a mistake about 5 years ago, hosed all the dust out of the engine compartment, and lost a coil in the back. That clean engine cost me about $400 I believe. Yikes. It's generally a bad design, I read that the OEM coils have a snorkel out the top for sucking in water...

    John
  • When applying brakes at 50 :MPH or higher get hard chatter. Service man thinks its warped rotors., but at lower speeds no chatter or pulsing of brake pedal. Suspect ABS
    problem . ;/anyone ;have any ideas?
    Thanx Butchsan
  • subearusubearu Posts: 3,613
    If it was the ABS, you'd hear it making it's racket as it applies the brakes a zillion times. Warped rotors often can be felt easier at highway speeds.

    -Brian
  • tcc21tcc21 Posts: 69
    Yep. They are a poor design. I have the problem a couple times a year when I run into a strong rain storm...sometimes, when the vehicle just sits in heavy rain it will happen too. For me, it dries out in a day or so and all is fine again. I'm not ready to dump more money into this 2003 crate along with the new Catalytic converter message that keeps coming up every couple months! Poor design - mechanically. Nice looking vehicle for it's time. (Worse than that, there is no inside light over-ride - to shut them off if you leave a door open....they do shut off after 5 minutes - but that's a pain sometimes too!) One more thing - 2003 - no power door lock button on the passenger door. What the heck were they thinking on that one!! 2004, it was added back..dah!
  • pelletpellet Posts: 1
    Does anyone know where i can get a free repair manuel,diagram of serpentine belt,and remove and install neew alternator? I cant seem to find anything for mazda free online, thanx
  • trx9805trx9805 Posts: 1
    We have a Mazda MPV 2000 with about 113,000 miles. For the past couple of years, we hear clicking noise from the front end. We have had the brakes, shocks and struts replaced but the noise keeps coming back. We live in the Chicago area, and during the winter, it seems that the noise was gone - we were relieved. Yesterday, as the weather is warming up, we started to hear it again.

    Did anybody experience something like this?
  • jipsterjipster Posts: 5,345
    edited March 2010
    Did anybody experience something like this?

    As a matter of fact, I'm currently experiencing the same thing on my 2004. Sounds like the sway bar links. Should be noticeable when turning while going over bumps, or just going over speed bumps etc, sometimes felt thru the steering wheel. There are 2 sway bar links, each attached to a front end tire. They are about $40-$50 a piece. My Mazda dealership quoted me a price of $276 just last week. It is not dangerous to drive on it I am told.
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 41,980
    It's hit or miss.

    Online Repair Manuals

    I have the best luck with the online repair manual through my public library.

    Steve, visiting host

    Moderator
    Minivan fan. Feel free to message or email me - stever@edmunds.com.

  • jipsterjipster Posts: 5,345
    Probably more miss with the MPV.
  • aa0526aa0526 Posts: 27
    Mine is a 2002 with 135K.
    Yes - I do have a clicking noise too ... over humps and certain road conditions.
    Otherwise, there is no serious driving concerns.
    I tried going under - and everything seems fine.
    No issues on braking nor turning.
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 41,980
    edited March 2010
    I did find this (my library has the Auto Repair Reference Center):

    2.5L Engine

    Install or connect the following:
    Alternator. Tighten the bolts to 29&#150;41 ft. lbs. (40&#150;50 Nm).
    Center shaft support bracket. Tighten the bolts to 32&#150;45 ft. lbs. (43&#150;61 Nm).
    Alternator harness connectors. Tighten the battery terminal nut to 87&#150;130 inch lbs. (10&#150;15 Nm).
    Right axle halfshaft and center shaft assembly
    Exhaust front pipe
    Subframe transverse section. Tighten the bolts to 69&#150;96 ft. lbs. (94&#150;131 Nm).
    Accessory drive belt
    Negative battery cable

    3.0L Engine

    Install or connect the following:
    Alternator
    Alternator harness connectors. Tighten the battery terminal nut to 44&#150;60 inch lbs. (5&#150;7 Nm).
    Power steering pulley. Tighten the nut to 29&#150;43 ft. lbs. (40&#150;58 Nm).
    Accessory drive belts. Tighten the alternator lockbolt to 14&#150;18 ft. lbs. (19&#150;25 Nm) and the pivot bolt to 28&#150;38 ft. lbs. (38&#150;51 Nm).
    Negative battery cable

    I don't see a pic for the 2.5. Try this for the 3.0 V-belt routing:

    Mazda MPV V-belt

    Moderator
    Minivan fan. Feel free to message or email me - stever@edmunds.com.

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