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Mazda MPV

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Comments

  • dm126dm126 Posts: 14
    OK, Let's see:
    1. Driver's side power window(approx. 80, 000 mi.) - It started raising slower & slower over a period of several weeks and finally, one day it wouldn't raise again. Took it to dealer and was told entire assembly including motor had to be replaced. Cost: Approx $800
    2. Coil issue(approx. 100, 000 mi.) - Van had a "hard code" (flashing check engine light) and was idling rough (shuddering). Took to my mechanic and he diagnosed cylinder misfire. Replaced plugs/wires, did not solve problem. Replaced coil pack - solved problem. Cost : I believe $300-$400 Note: I don't have my maint. records anymore, so I'm trying to recall from memory.
    3. Front Axil Bearing (approx. 140,000 mi.) - Van developed a "wobble" in the front end. Mechanic originally thought right side front wheel bearings were bad, but on inspection found that the front axil bearing was shot. It apparently has rubber "bushings" that deteriorate over time and allow the bearing to slide. Cost: I believe $400 -$500.
    4. Catalytic Converter(approx. 90,000 mi.) - This was a "biggie" Van developed flashing check engine light. Took to dealer who diagnosed blown intake manifold gasket. After replacing gasket - $800 - $900, Dealer told me that the converters were fouled and needed replacing. In addition I was informed that the van had "California Emissions" and the converters had to be ordered from Mazda (took a week & a half). Cost: $2200.
    5. Gas Gauge - Never had this problem, but would have gladly traded it for one of the above, LOL.
  • jipsterjipster Posts: 5,345
    Thanks for the summary on your MPV. What did you trade in for? :)
  • jipsterjipster Posts: 5,345
    Gas Gauge not reading full when filled up

    I noticed recently our fuel guage needle was very slow (2-3 minutes) in going from a quarter tank of gas to full... when filling up. Hope this isn't an indication something is going wrong. I've never noticed it to be that slow before... usually turn the key and the needle climbs slowly and steadily to the full mark???
  • dm126dm126 Posts: 14
    Traded in for a 2008 Hyundai Santa Fe SE FWD. We decided we no longer needed a minivan and I wanted to try a different type of vehicle. The dealer gave me $500 for the MPV. I took the van to a Mazda dealer a couple of weeks before the trade to find out what it would cost to keep the vehicle. In order to pass VA. emissions it would have cost approx. $1200 to replace o2, mass air, & crank sensors. CarMax offered me $450 for it and I didn't want to repair it and sell it myself, so I was content to take the $500 trade-in.
    Funny, as much as I wanted to get rid of the MPV, I still felt a bit sad watching the Hyundai folks take it away. We do get attached to our cars, especially if we keep them for long periods of time.
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,629
    That looks familiar. It could be the fuel sending unit. An additional symptom on my van was that the needle never got higher than 9/10s full even with a full tank. And it took awhile to get to 9/10s.
  • jipsterjipster Posts: 5,345
    Our 2004 MPV LX hit 40,000 miles today. We have about 3 months of factory warranty left on it. Thus far we have been very happy with the van, couldn't ask for more. Reliable (knock on wood), sporty looking and a nice handling minivan. Did a trans. flush at around 24k, coolant flush at 35k, oil changes every 3 or 4k. Wiper blades still OEM and working great. Switched out the crappy OEM Dunlops tires for some Goodyear Tripletreds in October, a much better tire... superior in everything but quietness. :)
  • PFFlyer@EdmundsPFFlyer@Edmunds Pennsylvania Furnace, PAPosts: 5,808
    Hope you can come out tonight to meet and greet some of your fellow CarSpace members!

    The Mazda Club Chat is on tonight. The chat room opens at 8:45PM ET Hope to see YOU there! Check out the schedule

    PFFlyer@Edmunds

    Moderator - Hatchbacks & Hybrid Vehicles

  • d5ad5a Posts: 64
    Have a rattle coming from what i think is the rear driver side sliding door handle. Has anyone had this same issue? I've had the dealer look at it but they can't seem to fix it. Wondering if anyone may know what the issue is also how can i take the handle off myself? IF anyone knows I would love to hear from you. Also hear a creaking noise from the seat belt area in the B pillar of the driver side wall. That happens once in a while normally only when pulling in and out of my driveway. Anyone had that issue? If so any help would be great.

    Thanks!
  • daddioof4daddioof4 Posts: 49
    With the cost of gas leapfrogging up and up everyday day I am taking extreme measures to improve my mpg. I am thinking of removing the roof rack cross bars (Only use them when we go on vacation for a week each year). But it appears I have to take the entire rack apart to remove the cross bars. Am I missing something here? Has any body removed their cross bars. If so, how do you do it and is it worth it from a mpg standpoint? Thanks, Mark
  • subearusubearu Posts: 3,613
    yes, you need to take the rack front and back mounting points off to slide the cross bars off. Once removed, you can fasten the rack bars back down again and run without the cross bars. You may see 1-2mpg improvement, but perhaps not.

    -Brian
  • daddioof4daddioof4 Posts: 49
    Can you use plumbers tape to seal the oil drain plug? Or will it be to hot and melt and get into the engine and gum up something?

    The knuckle heads at a quick lube place messed up the epoxy fix a different quick lube place applied when they stripped or cross threaded the Oil Drain bolt on the oil pan. Now I have a drippy oil drain bolt that is leaving a mess every where I go!
  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    Are you talking about teflon tape? If so, it doesn't really seal. Rather, it lubricates tapered threads so that they mesh with greater force. On a gasketed application like this, it will do very little to seal.

    What you might want to look at are one of the Doorman solutions to stripped drain plugs. Piggyback drain plug

    Of course, I'm surprised you didn't go after the first quick lube place for a new pan.
  • daddioof4daddioof4 Posts: 49
    Maltb, thanks for the info. I wasn't sure if it would work. You confirmed it won't. Long story short. I bought the car used and this was disclosed to me before I purchased it. I thought a new washer would take care of it. My next step is to use a Neoprene washer in addition to the Aluminum washer.
  • PFFlyer@EdmundsPFFlyer@Edmunds Pennsylvania Furnace, PAPosts: 5,808
    After a day of fun in the sun, why not stop in for some chat with your fellow CarSpace members?

    The Mazda Club Chat is on tonight. The chat room opens at 8:45PM ET Hope to see YOU there! Check out the schedule

    PFFlyer@Edmunds

    Moderator - Hatchbacks & Hybrid Vehicles

  • daddioof4daddioof4 Posts: 49
    I just replace the rear brake rotors and pads on our 2005 MPV last night. It has 60,000 miles on it. I have been changing my own brakes for some 30 years now. Some cars have 1-2 set screws holding the rotor in place (The MPV is one of them). In the past I was always able to get them off with a regular screw driver. Man, I tried last night for a good hour and couldn't do it. So I called my trusty mechanic and he said to use an impact driver. So I go get one and smack these screws 1-2 times and lo and behold, off they come in a second or two. So nice when you have the right tools!
  • sun001sun001 Posts: 2
    Hello,

    I have an MPV 2003 , it is out of company warranty. i would like to know whether it is a good idea to have an extended warranty for 60 months/100000 miles and where i could find good , econimical - complete coverage for my mpv

    today I have spend quite a huge amt for codes: P2404,P0706

    please let me know.

    thanks
    Sun
  • jipsterjipster Posts: 5,345
    Since it is out of manufacturer warranty it would have to be thru a 3rd party insurer, which most people advise against. You can get your codes read for free at Autozone.
  • 4runnerrip4runnerrip Posts: 24
    Well said dm126. I also have a 2000 MPV and can't wait to get rid of it. I've had almost all the same problems as you and the thing only has little over 100K Kms which were made up mostly of trips to the grocery store and one trip to Nova Scotia (3,200 kms round trip). In fact, you could almost get a sunburn from the check engine light when driving this vehicle! ;-)

    Never-ever-ever-ever buy a Mazda.
  • smssms Posts: 7
    I have an MPV LX that I bought new in October of '03. Both front doors and one of the passenger sliding doors are rusting from the inside out. You can see the rust along the bottom seam of each of these doors. There is also rust creeping out on the back fender-well seam too. The doors started rusting when the van was only about 2-1/2 yrs old. I took the van back to the dealership and they touched up the surface, but the rust came through last spring. By this time the dealership had gone out of business, so I took the van to a different dealer in Dayton, OH. They told me there was nothing they could do since the rust wasn't all the way 'through' and suggested I called Mazda Customer Service. I did start a case with them, but then didn't hear anything for a year. I know, it's a long time to wait, but I was moving/building a house, finishing school, raising three kids, busy like everyone else, etc, etc. Besides, I also figured I was still under the rust-through warranty. Well, it turns out that Mazda had tried to reach me, but they had my old phone number. Anyway, I called again this past June since the rust-through warranty hadn't expired, but was told that since I had waited a year since contacting them the first time, there was nothing they would do. The area rep wouldn't even meet with me or return my call. Then, when I mentioned to a local Mazda service manager that maybe the rust would work its way through before the warranty expires, he actually told me that Mazda would just deny the claim since we all now know about the problem. He mentioned that they might consider doing something if I paid out-of-pocket to do something now - this is like a pre-existing medical condition I guess. I guess It's my fault that I'm so observant.

    So, now I have a rusting van with a useless rust-through warranty. Other than the rust, the van looks brand new. When we bought it new, I thought the savings over an Odyssey was worth it - now I'm not so sure. So, my plan is to keep the van, turn it into a commuter car, park my Tundra and buy an Odyssey for my wife within the year. I've lived in NH, PA, and now OH, and I've never had such a pervasive rust problem until now. No more Mazda's (or Fords for that matter) for me...

    So, is anyone else having similar rust issues, and are there any 'secret' warranties? Any suggestions? Any deep lake where I can send it...
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,629
    I have a 2002 MPV and noticed there's some rust on the inside of the bottom of the front doors. I bought the van used over 2 years ago. I was going to touch it up myself before winter. We use a lot of salt on the roads here (MN).
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