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Mazda MPV

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Comments

  • mityfleamityflea Posts: 1
    I DO know that the same like vehicle (Toyota or Honda) with 120K miles on it would not have these conditions. I should have spent the extra $5K at the time and went that route! Good luck! TCC

    Really? Are you sure about that? I've had a 2001 Honda Odyssey needing a new transmission twice already. Turns out that Honda installed defective transmissions on the Odyssey from 1999-2004. The Acura CL, TL, MDX and Honda Accord suffered similar problems. The Third Generation Odyssey hasn't reported major transmission issues in case you're wondering. I've heard a rumor that it shares it's transmission with the Ridgeline. As for the Second Generation Sienna, it's had quite a few problems too. From electrical problems, to door spot welds constantly breaking. So if you think buying a Toyota or Honda is anymore troube free, think again. I personally would trade my $4500 transmission troubles for all of your minor problems any day.
  • tcc21tcc21 Posts: 69
    Well, maybe there are a few bad apples out there with the Honda emblem on them....but I know of a person who owns a 2003 and they love it and my sister has a 2004 Sienna and it is very solid after 160K miles on it. Maybe I should have only mentioned Toyotas are better in the long run. I know the Blue Book on both Hondas and Toyotas are stronger in the long run than Mazdas! My 2003 MPV with 122K on it in excellent shape is around 7K dollars. The similar Sienna is worth more! Sorry if I mispoke for those of you having troubles with your Hondas. I know there are more bad apples with Mazda on them out there....I could go on about the Mazda 6's from 2003 -2006 - people I know that had those vehicles were not real happy.
  • sm00vesm00ve Posts: 1
    I only have one pet peeve with her. I can't find a manual for the van. NO one seems to carry one, internet or otherwise. The van is 5 years old, so surely someone should've taken one of these apart by now and wrote some notes or something. Haynes & Chiltons are starting to dissapoint me greatly...
  • linda424linda424 Posts: 1
    I just took our 2002 mpv into the dealer to get checked out because we had a loud noise near the catalytic converter...it was the flex exhaust pipe.The dealer put it on the "scope" to check for any other problems...he said there was none. 3 days later the van was running horrible..bouncing and erratic rpms...we had the exhaust hose replaced...much quieter but now engine light is on and it seems to have some sort of misfire....when the rpms get really low the breaks seem to harden and its hard to stop unless you go to the floor with the pedal. Shouldn't the dealer have noticed the brakes....they did have the tires off when we went to pick it up...not sure why, if there is a brake problem. Is it still safe to drive with the engine light flashing on and off until I can get back to the dealer? Van was fine until we got to the dealer...
  • aa0526aa0526 Posts: 27
    We bought ours NEW in July 2002.
    We have the 3.0 v6.
    Here is a list of things that have been repaired the last 7 years.

    1. IAC valve - replaced part of TSB recall 2005
    2. IAC valve - replaced again in 12/2008 after CEL came on.
    3. Mass Air Flow sensor - cleaned in 5/2008 after CEL came on
    4. Mass Air Flow sensor - replaced in 10/2008 after CEL came on

    Other than that - there's been no problems.
    BTW - the hardest part is diagnosing these things ---- some mechanics just make guesses ... others are more knowledgeable than others. I used an independent mechanic for items 2 -4. I had to 'help' them understand the problem by giving a detailed history and telling them what I have heard from this board. True enough ---- I was right!
    He initially wanted to replace either the O2 sensors or the coils.

    Right now - my MPV is in the shop ---- the fan is not working causing the engine to overheat. But after 124K miles --- and a cross country trip thru 100+ degree weather and wintry blizzards - it is difficult to complain.

    I do change my oil every 6-8K and use synthetic or semi-synthetic.
  • aa0526aa0526 Posts: 27
    What were the engine codes for the CEL?

    My past engine codes have been PO171 and PO173.
    I've had a few more ... but previous experience has been the following:

    1. IAC or EGR valve
    2. Mass Air Flow sensor

    The EGR valve leak produces very rough idling - if not jerky driving.
    The Mass Air Flow Sensor problem (usually either very dirty or worn out) - results in poor acceleration and low HP especially from 3rd gear to 4th and 5th and poor mileage.

    Most mechanics will blame the O2 sensor or any of the coils. They can charge a lot for the labor for these ... so be aware. Read the codes... read the codes ... and research them carefully ... some mechanics are just as naive about these codes as any layperson --- yes, even the newbie mechanics at the dealerships!
  • aa0526aa0526 Posts: 27
    BTW .. just got back from the mechanic ...

    My two fans are not working ... something due to the wiring.
    If the two fans are connected directly - they run perfectly fine.
    The fuses are OK.

    I will bring the van to an electrical shop.

    I had them check the brakes ... after 124K, the brakes are still at 50% !!!
  • rgb2rgb2 Posts: 30
    I bought 04 ES in Jan 05. Loved it last month. Took it in for last oil change and inspection before warranty expired in Dec 08. The "full circle" inspection said everything OK. Then in May I noticed oil stains on the driveway. It's due for an oil change anyway, so I take it to the dealer - and get the "leaking oil pan" and $500 quote to replace it. Since the car has 46K miles only and been regularly maintained at the dealer, I complain. The dealer says will get back to me, and a couple a days later call and says that Mazda will cover 50% of labor and new gasket, but not new oil pan. Take to another shop to double check - they say the front crank seal is also leaking. Go back to dealer, after some haggling he agrees there are 2 leaks. So after a lot of wasted time, energy, and $250 I got a couple of new gaskets and a shaken belief in Mazda reliability and dealer expertise. Still love the MPV but having second thoughts about keeping it for 10 years as I originally planned.
  • jipsterjipster Posts: 5,345
    Mazda replaced a ignition coil that was under mileage warranty, but a few months over the 48 month warranty, without a hassle. The oil pan problems seems as if it is becoming more prominent lately. We've got a little over 5 years on our MPV... hoping to get 10.
  • tcc21tcc21 Posts: 69
    I had my oil pan gasket replaced for 360 at a local garage I trust. The problem is that the gasket is a METAL one that get's warped and causes the leaking. You can't tighten it since it is warped. Poor design to start with -dah! You'd think that engineers would learn?? Anyway, my new gasket is a different material that conforms to the pan and will not warp under heat. I had a bad leak too and had a mess on my garage floor and the undercarriage area. Good luck! These MPV's are nice when they are working but have many little bugs waiting to bite!
    I have 124K miles on my 2003 - I am the original owner and have gone thru all the fixes thru the years. I do change oil every 3K miles too.
  • lg2207lg2207 Posts: 28
    I would've taken the offer for 50% from Mazda since your out of warranty (IMO)-- to save the headaches of running around- anyway our '02 with 57,000 which is serviced regularly by an independent shop recently had to have the plan replaced- as one member indicated the pan and the gaskets wore out. We needed the new kit which had updated gaskets recommended for this vehicle. It cost us $435 in between the $360 the other member mentioned and the $500 quoted by the dealer. I hear you on Mazda reliability- we have an '07 6S Wagon that has had numerous problems (way more than anything we've had over the past 7 years on the MPV)
    Take Care
  • mcadrechamcadrecha Posts: 46
    Tonight, after returning home and parking the car in the garage, when I turned off my engine, I could not remove the key from the steering column. I can't get the key to rotate all the way back to the off position (it stays on the accessory position). Has anyone ever had this happen before??

    Thanks,

    Michael
  • mcadrechamcadrecha Posts: 46
    Oops, forgot to say I have a 2002 Mazda MPV.
  • tcc21tcc21 Posts: 69
    I have a 2003 MPV with 126K miles on it. Sometimes mine will get stuck for a moment but I jiggle it or shake the steering wheel and it comes around and out. It could be a worn tumbler or worn key too. How many miles on it?

    Other issue for me - I keep having the CHECK ENGINE LIGHT come on and have had it cleared about 10 times - no kidding. The message comes up that my 2nd Bank has a Catalytic problem?? Replace converter? Ugh! Runs fine and no change on mileage for gas. I'm just leaving it for now. They said it would just keep running fine but I would not pass emissions testing if we did that again. Anyone ever have THAT issue with these lovely beasts?!?
    :mad:
  • jdelgjdelg Posts: 1
    I have a 2004 mpv, and I have replaced 4 ignition coils, and the mass air sensor. Everytime it seems to have happened while raining, or just after raining. From what i've seen this is common to the mpv. will this just keep happening? or is the flaw in the original coil, and trouble is cleared with replacing the part. I really can't afford a new van right now, but I'm worried because my wife uses it to drive my young children around. I'm just not trusting it anymore, as it has broken down from this trouble. Anyone relate to this? Any advice? Has anyone ever found a way to waterproof these coil/plugs?
  • I have read that the rear coils generally go out 1st because of the heat, when mine go out I'll replace all 6 at the same time.

    I haven't read much about the MAS and I'm not sure it's related.
  • tcc21tcc21 Posts: 69
    I have a 2003 and it's common. I just let it dry out and it seems find until the next major rain or I wash the engine off. I had it checked a couple times. They said one of the front coils could be replaced - about $200 labor and parts...but I put it off. It runs fine 90% of the time. It's happen since it was new. Drove in a terrible downpour and it started sputtering on the ride home. I just lived with it for a couple days and it dried out. I think it's a combination of the compartment design and what they are. My more major issue is my catalytic converter and it's related sensors. I've had my check engine light come on numerous times due to a 'left front bank #2 issue with a mix/lean cold something. I have it cleared and it pops on about once a month. I will not replace the catalytic converter until the car quits. My mileage contines to be the same - good and it runs smoothly. We'll see. Lot's of crazy things with these MPV's.
  • jipsterjipster Posts: 5,345
    The front coils (#4,5,6) are easy to remove, shouldn't take 10 minutes. You could do it yourself for the price of a $69 coil bought online. The $200 price you speak of probably includes the dealerships diagnostic fee of $99.

    First coil of mine went out in a torrential downpour, the second... not sure... may not have been raining.
  • You can also purchase the coil packs on ebay for $120-185 shipped depending on the manufacturer and both have received good reviews on the MPV forum, they also have a great article on how to do-it-yourself.
  • aa0526aa0526 Posts: 27
    I HAD the same exact symptoms on my 2002 Mazda MPV back at 112K miles.
    I brought it to two different mechanics.
    The problem with OBDII codes is --- they don't really describe the root cause. They describe the problem / general area... which is a good starting point.
    But it is up to the mechanic to further do investigations.

    Anyway - the first mechanic replaced all the plugs, did a change oil etc ... and cleared the codes. The codes did disappear ... only to reappear after 9K miles.

    The second mechanic CLEANED the MAF sensor --- the codes disappeared.
    After 5K, the codes came back - I CLEANED the MAF sensor on my own (with instructions from the mechanic), the codes disappeared. He did tell me that if it appeared one more time, it was time to REPLACE the MAF sensor ... which I did 6 months later.

    The CEL came back again ... but it was for the leak in the PCV valve.

    The CEL come back ON/OFF when I drove at high altitude during a snow storm. It has disappeared and has never come back on again.
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