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Mazda MPV

1391392393394396

Comments

  • jipsterjipster Posts: 5,345
    Sounds like the idle air control valve to me. If so may just need a good cleaning.
  • aa0526aa0526 Posts: 27
    I had that same error codes way back.

    Initially - they thought it was the O2 sensor. The MPV has two ... one before the catalytic converter - and one after it. Combined, they cost about <$200.00.

    However, further testing and pleading from me showed something else instead.

    The MAF - mass air flow sensor was dirty. We thought it needed replacement - which was not too expensive. The tech guy simply cleaned it and the error codes never came back.

    About 15-20K miles later, slightly same error codes came back ---
    1. The EGR - hose / valve (made of rubber or PVC) was in need of replacement (again). It was initially replaced at 35K due to a recall. It was again worn out - the part was about <$70 but the labor was relatively high.Check the Mazda MPV recall history on this one. I am might be wrong about the exact name.

    2. The MAF needed replacement. I cleaned it on more than one occasion but at 120K mileage - I think it was beyond its useful life - so I replaced it.

    The problem has not come back since - am now at 132K.

    I did notice that all these problems crop up during the cold winter months ...
  • subearusubearu Posts: 3,613
    Yep, that issue sounds just like what our '02 is currently doing...although not today. I am now expecting the mechanic to find the PCV hose ruptured. Guess if that's the case, it lasted 5 years (or about 50k miles) in our case.

    -Brian
  • tcc21tcc21 Posts: 69
    I have had that happen when it rains heavy or I drive in a rain storm. The front spark plug wire get's water seaping into it and the light comes on and it bucks real bad. After a day, it dries out and all fine. I know I could replace that cap/wire but it's not cheap. Those other replies are all similar to what I have otherwise although I didn't experience rough running with the catalytic mess or other items. Just the moisture problem. Been doing it since it was new too.
  • once_for_allonce_for_all Posts: 1,640
    I've had code P0171 a couple times, it has always turned out to be the Mass Air Flow sensor. There are a couple fine spring looking coils in the MAF that need to get sprayed with "mass air flow sensor cleaner".

    The MAF is just downstream of the air filter. It can get lint and so forth from a new air cleaner.

    But, your rough idle could also be due to the PVC hose collapsing and cracking (which creates a vacuum leak, and a lean condition). That hose can be about a $100 item...I've had to do mine twice in 88k miles, once as a dealer recall, once on my own wallet.

    John
  • once_for_allonce_for_all Posts: 1,640
    anyone attempt to change these? I've got an '03 with 88,000, it threw a code misfire P0301 (misfire cylinder one) last week and is not running as smooth as normal. I'm guessing it's due for an early spark plug/plug boot replacement.

    What plugs are you using? Rock Auto shows a bunch of options, looks like Bosch has an expensive Iridium replacement, super long life, etc...

    John
  • jipsterjipster Posts: 5,345
    Could be the coil. I've read the best plug for the MPV is the OEM plug, Motorcraft or the NKG plug. Too bad on the 301 code, that's a hard one to get to.
  • once_for_allonce_for_all Posts: 1,640
    thanks for the reply...and thanks also to this board, I spent a couple hours on the MPVclub web site and read all about how to get at the coils. It actually sounds less daunting than I originally thought...I'll pick up 3 coils (for the back), and 6 plugs, and call it good for now.

    Also might be rain related, it misfired and flashed the code last week during a big rain storm. As I learned, apparently the back coil packs can get wet. It's running fine again now that it has dried out.

    John
  • jipsterjipster Posts: 5,345
    Glad to hear the MPV is running better. I had a front coil run rough when I ran over a large water puddle on the expressway. The second bad coil... had been raining for a few days. Both were covered under warranty. I've read some people say that their van ran fine again after drying out. How long did you have to air your MPV out?
  • once_for_allonce_for_all Posts: 1,640
    the misfire wasn't consistent from the get go, it threw the code and seemed to run ok after that, but not smooth.

    I made a mistake about 5 years ago, hosed all the dust out of the engine compartment, and lost a coil in the back. That clean engine cost me about $400 I believe. Yikes. It's generally a bad design, I read that the OEM coils have a snorkel out the top for sucking in water...

    John
  • When applying brakes at 50 :MPH or higher get hard chatter. Service man thinks its warped rotors., but at lower speeds no chatter or pulsing of brake pedal. Suspect ABS
    problem . ;/anyone ;have any ideas?
    Thanx Butchsan
  • subearusubearu Posts: 3,613
    If it was the ABS, you'd hear it making it's racket as it applies the brakes a zillion times. Warped rotors often can be felt easier at highway speeds.

    -Brian
  • tcc21tcc21 Posts: 69
    Yep. They are a poor design. I have the problem a couple times a year when I run into a strong rain storm...sometimes, when the vehicle just sits in heavy rain it will happen too. For me, it dries out in a day or so and all is fine again. I'm not ready to dump more money into this 2003 crate along with the new Catalytic converter message that keeps coming up every couple months! Poor design - mechanically. Nice looking vehicle for it's time. (Worse than that, there is no inside light over-ride - to shut them off if you leave a door open....they do shut off after 5 minutes - but that's a pain sometimes too!) One more thing - 2003 - no power door lock button on the passenger door. What the heck were they thinking on that one!! 2004, it was added back..dah!
  • pelletpellet Posts: 1
    Does anyone know where i can get a free repair manuel,diagram of serpentine belt,and remove and install neew alternator? I cant seem to find anything for mazda free online, thanx
  • trx9805trx9805 Posts: 1
    We have a Mazda MPV 2000 with about 113,000 miles. For the past couple of years, we hear clicking noise from the front end. We have had the brakes, shocks and struts replaced but the noise keeps coming back. We live in the Chicago area, and during the winter, it seems that the noise was gone - we were relieved. Yesterday, as the weather is warming up, we started to hear it again.

    Did anybody experience something like this?
  • jipsterjipster Posts: 5,345
    edited March 2010
    Did anybody experience something like this?

    As a matter of fact, I'm currently experiencing the same thing on my 2004. Sounds like the sway bar links. Should be noticeable when turning while going over bumps, or just going over speed bumps etc, sometimes felt thru the steering wheel. There are 2 sway bar links, each attached to a front end tire. They are about $40-$50 a piece. My Mazda dealership quoted me a price of $276 just last week. It is not dangerous to drive on it I am told.
  • steverstever YooperlandPosts: 40,012
    It's hit or miss.

    Online Repair Manuals

    I have the best luck with the online repair manual through my public library.

    Steve, visiting host

    Moderator
    Need help navigating? stever@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

  • jipsterjipster Posts: 5,345
    Probably more miss with the MPV.
  • aa0526aa0526 Posts: 27
    Mine is a 2002 with 135K.
    Yes - I do have a clicking noise too ... over humps and certain road conditions.
    Otherwise, there is no serious driving concerns.
    I tried going under - and everything seems fine.
    No issues on braking nor turning.
  • steverstever YooperlandPosts: 40,012
    edited March 2010
    I did find this (my library has the Auto Repair Reference Center):

    2.5L Engine

    Install or connect the following:
    Alternator. Tighten the bolts to 29&#150;41 ft. lbs. (40&#150;50 Nm).
    Center shaft support bracket. Tighten the bolts to 32&#150;45 ft. lbs. (43&#150;61 Nm).
    Alternator harness connectors. Tighten the battery terminal nut to 87&#150;130 inch lbs. (10&#150;15 Nm).
    Right axle halfshaft and center shaft assembly
    Exhaust front pipe
    Subframe transverse section. Tighten the bolts to 69&#150;96 ft. lbs. (94&#150;131 Nm).
    Accessory drive belt
    Negative battery cable

    3.0L Engine

    Install or connect the following:
    Alternator
    Alternator harness connectors. Tighten the battery terminal nut to 44&#150;60 inch lbs. (5&#150;7 Nm).
    Power steering pulley. Tighten the nut to 29&#150;43 ft. lbs. (40&#150;58 Nm).
    Accessory drive belts. Tighten the alternator lockbolt to 14&#150;18 ft. lbs. (19&#150;25 Nm) and the pivot bolt to 28&#150;38 ft. lbs. (38&#150;51 Nm).
    Negative battery cable

    I don't see a pic for the 2.5. Try this for the 3.0 V-belt routing:

    Mazda MPV V-belt

    Moderator
    Need help navigating? stever@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

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