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Toyota Echo

19899101103104115

Comments

  • rep5858rep5858 Member Posts: 45
    SOME 2001 and 2002 echos have a problem with the crankshaft position sensor. It may become disconnected. If this happens engine can stall at any speed.
    So Toyota has issued a recall for ALL echos 01 and 02.
  • bottgersbottgers Member Posts: 2,030
    1. Slow down. I get a chuckle every time I read where people want to know how they can increase their fuel economy and in the same sentence they admit they spend most of their time driving 80 MPH. You're probably going to increase your highway mileage a significant amount by slowing down by 10-15 MPH.

    2. Keep your tires inflated to 4-5 psi over what's listed as the recommended pressure on the driver's door. Not only will fuel economy increase, it'll increase the life of the tread, reduce road noise, and improve handling. The recommended pressure is purely for ride comfort.

    3. Keep a clean air filter installed.

    4. Make sure the spark plugs don't need to be replaced, and if so, replace them.

    5. Run full synthetic oil if you aren't already. This won't make a huge difference in mileage, but it'll double or triple the amount of miles you can go on an oil change, which in the long run saves time and money.
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Member Posts: 1,694
    synthetic oil:

    "wont make a huge difference in mileage" RIGHT!
    "triples the ammount of mileage you can go on an oil change." WRONG if your cars under warranty. Toyota wants the oil changed whether its dino or synth. Same interval for either oil.
    "in the long run saves time and money." Hard to figure. An oil change with synthetic will cost $20 just for the oil. I can get oil at Pep Boys for 59 cents a quart on sale and Purolator oil filters for 49 cents on sale. Thats an oil change every four months for a year for about $9.
    One thing synthetic oil WILL DO is leak out of your engine where dino will not (or less so) This is especially true as the engine gets older. Something to think about. Certainly if you are using a quart of oil every thousand miles you just spent $5 to have synthetic vs 59 cents for regular.
    If you live where it is very cold in the winter for long periods of time (like below 10 degrees) yes you have my blessing to use sytthetic oil. "I" would use synthetic oil under those consitions. Yes Sir.
  • bottgersbottgers Member Posts: 2,030
    If you want to stick to the rule of the warranty, use dino and change at the recommended intervals. If you want to go with a full syn and extend your intervals, in the event you do have an engine problem while under warranty, Toyota or anyone for that matter is going to have a tough time proving the problem was caused by neglect. All you have to say is that the oil has always been changed at the Toyota recommended interval. There ain't much they can do about it. After the warranty expires, all bets are off and you can do anything you want.

    Let me ask you this; have you ever done a UOA on that $.59 Pep Boys oil? How long are your OCI's? Do you even know if that cheap oil is good for that long? Most dinos are only good for 3-5K miles, whereas there are many good syns that'll go 12-15K easily. Also, there's the time and effort of having to crawl under the car every 3-5K miles to change that oil. Then you have 2-3 times as much to dispose of. Get the picture?

    You're also about 5 years behind with your syn-oil-causes-leaks theory. That may have been true years ago, but not any more. Syns today have much better seal conditioners. The result is far fewer leaks then before. Now days you're not any more likely to experience leaks with syn than with dino.

    Your only valid point is about the car burns a lot of oil. In that vehicle I would also run dino.
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Member Posts: 1,694
    I used to have a business rebuilding VW engines. Many of the engines were from people I knew. (so I knew how they were maintained...some not so good!) I did an awefull lot of them. Ive seen the cows come and seen the cows go and I know all the stories. I also know from experience looking at torn apart engines what happens to them where oil is involved.
    Synthetic oil was developed to be used in turbine (jet) engines at temperatures and pressures that do not exist in an automobiles engine. Yes it can do some pretty amazing things. It wont make your engine last any longer or get any better mileage. How a vehicle is driven pretty much determines that, everything else being equal.
    In 2000 I started putting a quart of (synthetic) oil in my 1975 BMW R90/6 along with a quart and a half of regular oil for winter (below 20 degree F) use. I did it so the egnine would start better. It did indeed, but it also made the gaskets between the cylinders and the crankcase weep oil! Something that hadn't happened in 25 years! Snythetic oil is just thinner than regular oil under the same temperature so its gonna find places to leak out of conventional oil wont. Doesnt have anything to do with seal conditioners. Its not a big deal unless youre like my daughter and dont check your oil when you should.
    Yes I hear that stuff about less oil going into the environment. Seems to me like million gallon oil spills make that pretty much a moot point. I understand CA had proposed legislation a few years ago that would have sealed crankcases so only the dealer could change your oil! Nuttyest thing I ever heard!
    As for crawling under the car three times a year Ill take every chance to crawl under my car I can get! While its up on ramps Im checking my CV joint boots, brake lines, exhaust pipes, ball joint boots, tie rod end boots, radiator hoses and connections for leaks, bleeding my clutch cylinder, and so on.
    You ever do that?
  • bottgersbottgers Member Posts: 2,030
    ... to do with your seals and nothing to do with how thin the oil is. If you have a bad seal, it's gonna leak. Period. It just happened to start leaking sooner with the syn. You would've had a leak eventually even with the dino. I've used syn in several of my vehicles and never experienced a leak. Guess I didn't have any bad seals.

    And yes, I do check all of those things on my vehicles, only not every 3-5K miles, which is overkill.

    You never answered any of my questions about the cheap Pep Boys oil.
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Member Posts: 1,694
    Sorry but there was a lot to answer. Cheap Pep Boys oil. I should explain that every Christmas shopping season Pep Boys has a special on a case of oil. One year it was 12 quarts of Pennzoil for 49 cents a quart. (that includes a rebate) Lat year it was Castrol GTX 49 cents a quart. Otherwise they have Mobile and Exxon (now the same) oil for 59 cents a quart. I think its higher now maybe $1.09 a quart after rebate. You can still get Purolator filters for 49 cents though.
  • bottgersbottgers Member Posts: 2,030
    ....haven't answered my questions.
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Member Posts: 1,694
    You mean the oil tests? Basically they are moot. In a properly oil changed engine (assuming you drive it responsibly) the internal engine components basically wont wear out. Thats using conventional oil.Oh you might need a valve job, but your auto transmission, the body integrity, will go long before the engine will. Or the car will be 15 years old and who wants to drive a 15 year old car? Not me! How old is you car?
  • bottgersbottgers Member Posts: 2,030
    You can't determine what a proper OCI is until you know when the oil needs to be changed, unless you're just changing it every 3K miles, which as I pointed out earlier is a waste of time and resources. Even the 3K rule isn't a sure thing. I leased a brand new Dodge Intrepid in '98 with the intentions of buying out the lease. I changed the oil promptly every 3K and the engine started using oil heavily at 60K. Was this a poorly designed engine or did the oil cause this? I have no way of knowing because I never did any UOA's. We currently have 3 cars. An '03 MPV, a '99 Corolla, and a '93 Tercel.
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Member Posts: 1,694
    Well Toyota recommends a four month interval as the minimum time between oil changes, assuming short distance driving. So I change my ECHOs oil every four months even though I usually drive less than 2k miles in that time. Oil compumption could be caused by a lot of things.
  • bottgersbottgers Member Posts: 2,030
    ...with that OCI on any oil. I wish I was in a position to where I had to change my oil based on time and not mileage. I put 2500-3000 a month on my Corolla so I'm always having to change based on mileage. The only good thing about it is all these miles are highway, which are easy miles.
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Member Posts: 1,694
    That should result in a 300k mile Corrola!
  • geosephgeoseph Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for your help:

    Unfortunately I should have mentioned that this car is a hatchback. I can't see any of the mounting nuts - I suspect I need to remove the side panel before these are visible.
  • bottgersbottgers Member Posts: 2,030
    I hope so.
  • nippononlynippononly Member Posts: 12,555
    check this out:

    http://autos.yahoo.com/consumerreports/article/fuel_efficient_cars_category.html- ;_ylt=AhHFgt1uD5wNNmCLs9UryrEEc78F;_ylc=X3oDMTE4N3UycWFyBF9TAzI3MTYxNDkEc2VjA2Zw- LXRvZGF5BHNsawN0b2RheS1tb2R1bGU-

    I didn't realize it, but in Consumer Reports' testing, this little car did even better than the Civic hybrid for mpg!

    And of course, it was the highest-rated gas-only car. :-)

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • kneisl1kneisl1 Member Posts: 1,694
    And look how poorly the Regular Civic did! This is what Im afraid Toyota will do to the ECHO er Yaris in the long run, fatten it up! You forgot to mention how little $$$$ you spend to buy the ECHO compared to the TDI et al.
    The ECHO is one nifty little car, eh?
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Member Posts: 1,694
    In its used car edition, Consumer Reports is recommending the ECHO as a used car for the 00, 01, 02, 03, 04 and 05 model years. Thats would be...every year it was built!
  • babyboomerbabyboomer Member Posts: 205
    My son, an Assistant District Attorney, recommends the web site NADAguides.com for used car prices since the courts use it in bankruptcy cases.
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Member Posts: 1,694
    I was reading an article in the NY Times about the ECHO/Yaris wannabe the Nissan Versa. It seems this car has a 127 hp engine and weighs 600 pounds MORE than the ECHO! Average mpg by the tester? 31 mpg! Looks like Nissan just doesnt get it. ECHO would appear to be state of the art high mileage conventional vehicle. I wonder will we ever see a true minicar with 1500 pound curb weight and a 50 hp engine?
  • nippononlynippononly Member Posts: 12,555
    the Smart will get close in 2008, but still.....no cigar! :-)

    63 hp is the engine rating now, and I suppose it will go up for the North American model. I am hoping for 50 mpg though, which would comfortably trump the Echo.

    The Yaris is way off though - for the money and the low mileage I would go the extra $1000 and get the Matrix - lots more space for the money, although the Versa is a pretty nice ride, and better looks.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • kneisl1kneisl1 Member Posts: 1,694
    I hear the Smart is $20k (and up of course) Another Prius! (spend $$$$ to save $$$) If its true the Versa gets 31 mpg, its a total failure. (although people may buy it) Its possible we will never see another car like the ECHO/Yaris that gets mileage for the size it is. (unless they come out with a diesel of course!) Ceratinly the Korean cars with the same displacement engine as the ECHO have come up short mileage wise.
  • nippononlynippononly Member Posts: 12,555
    I just re-read my post from last evening, and I meant to say "The Versa is way off though -...", not the Yaris! Weird.

    The Versa is a very nice car inside, which is refreshing given its price. Still a goodly amount of hard plastic though. But check out how much personal space you have in the driver's seat before you pass judgment. And those are comfy supportive seats.

    If the ONLY thing you prioritize is fuel economy, then no, it won't be all that for you. But it does have a lot of things going for it. And 30+ mpg is acceptable for a small hatch/wagon, given its versatility and passenger capacity (four adults will be perfectly comfortable in the Versa).

    And the new Accent is rated 32/35, which is at least decent. Yes, the Echo will save 10-15% in gas costs vs the Accent. But Accent has a nifty SE trim level which looks really cool and has 16s with 205/50 tires. Yesss! :-)
    Of course, there is no optional cruise control - what is it with automakers in this engine size class? None of them except Honda can figure out how to engineer a cruise for such a small engine? With the Accent SE it's not a question of price point/options packaging, as it has every other bell and whistle under the sun, including heated outside mirrors and moonroof.

    The magic of the Echo, and the trump card it holds that will never be re-trumped I am sure, is light weight. 2100 pounds? They will never build anything short of a dedicated sports car that light again. This along with a technologically advanced engine in a powertrain designed for efficiency is what gets this car such fantastic mileage.

    Sometimes, I think it might be fun to lower an Echo, give it proper suspension and sway bars and larger rims with lower profile tires, and turn it into a real handler, you know? The weight thing is totally in its favor for handling as well. Then you could slap a turbo under the hood and take it to the track! You would have the most absurd-looking car out there, but I bet you would leave most cars in the dust. Remember, the Lotus Elise is only 190 hp, 135 lb-ft, and it only weighs a couple of hundred pouinds less.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • kneisl1kneisl1 Member Posts: 1,694
    They already make a car like that the Miata. Mine is awesome i can tell you!
  • nippononlynippononly Member Posts: 12,555
    the Miata's handling is the best, I have driven a couple.

    But not for me, sadly. Not only do I sometimes need four seats, but with my girth (ahem!) I need a larger driver's space too. :-/

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • jp06jp06 Member Posts: 1
    I have a trouble recently with my toyota Echo (2002). It is unstable at high speeds (65-72 miles/h) on the road. I feel like I am pulled to one side at certain instants at high speeds, especially on curved highways. It was running fine till couple of days before. At lower speeds, below 60 m/h it is just fine. Anyone has similar experience or comments.Thanks
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Member Posts: 1,694
    Hows your tire pressure? Are your tires worn or dammaged? (tread squirm)
  • val4val4 Member Posts: 2
    I am on my third Toyota - 2000 Echo and so far have been pleased with it. Last week while travelling on business, my check engine light came on. I went to nearest dealer and they told me my fuel injector needed cleaned, which they did. I also had them do oil change. I picked up my car and drove approximately 200 (120 miles home and 1 trip to/from work when the light came back on. Took it to local dealer and they tell me that they can't find anything wrong and they have a bulletin that tells them if they can't find anything wrong with the systems, that the computer needs replaced ($1100.00+ tax, etc and labor). :cry: Does this sound like a rip off or what? Why would it cost more for a computer in a car than a computer in my home? What happens if I don't have it replaced? Thanks
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Member Posts: 1,694
    Hard to say. Did they tell you what error code they found?
  • nippononlynippononly Member Posts: 12,555
    you need to find better dealers. Or go to a good independent shop.

    The fuel injector thing sounds pretty fishy as a cure for a CEL, and the new computer thing is TOTALLY fishing for a pile of money from an unsuspecting customer.

    Has either place told you why the light ACTUALLY CAME ON? Like, the exact code that was triggered? A gas cap with a worn-out gasket can cause the light to come on - repair cost, $20.

    Don't walk, RUN from any shop that can't tell you why the light came on if it is still on when you take the car in. Which policy would seem to include that second dealer.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • kneisl1kneisl1 Member Posts: 1,694
    I agree something sounds awefully fishy here. You can have AutoZone read the code for free.
  • val4val4 Member Posts: 2
    No, neither dealer told me what the code was. Thanks for the Auto Zone suggestion. I'll take it there and see what happens. Will let you know.
  • fyrdncrfyrdncr Member Posts: 1
    Hi everyone! I previously drove a 2001 silver ECHO - loved it... no longer have that car, but now have a used 2003 aqua ice, but with less options installed: no keyless entry/alarm, remote mirror controls, CLOCK!, rear-window defroster.
    I was sooo spoiled by the 2001 conveniences, I would like to upgrade this 2003. Is it possible to safely add any of those features? I am now really missing my old car! :(
    Any advice from those of you in-the-know?
    Thanks!
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Member Posts: 1,694
    Call Toyota and ask them what they want to install them. My guess is $1000-$2000. No rear window defroster? Is that really true? I find it hard to believe actually! They used to make aftermarket windshield defrosters but they are so universal now that I havnt seen one on the shelves in ages. Anyway first stop Toyota. Whatever they cant do ask your local car parts store. (you may have to try several) Do a google search for each of the items you want. Perhaps also you could look in the yellow pages under automotive.
    But my gut instinct says: this is not going to be economically feasible. (well, maybe the clock) So allow me to offer some options therapy instead. FORGET about the clock! If you get the Toyota clock then you lose a much more valuble cubby hole. This hole is the best engineered hole in the automotive world! Not only does it have an inwardly slooped surface to prevent things falling out under acceleration, it has a specially textured grippy rubber mat that does the same thing! It holds the swipe card I use to get in and out of work and ITS NEVER FALLEN OUT! I got a cheap digital watch and put it in there. Accuarate to a couple of seconds every six months and has other features (stopwatch) the Toyota clock wont have that have come in handy. Allows full use of the cubby hole for other purposes.
    Its probably possible to install an after market keyless/alarm system. I STRONGLY advise against it! My brothers 93 Honda Accord was totally screwed up electrically when he had one installed. My just purchased 99 Miata the PO installed one and removed it before selling it to me. He said it gave him nothing but trouble. I could talk all day about the trouble aftermarket alarm systems cause.
    I just replaced the passanger side rearview mirror (manual) on my 01 ECHO with an aftermarket one for $55. As I recall Toyota wanted HUNDREDS just for the one MANUAL mirror. I would guess $500 just for two remote mirrors. Then of course there would be installation costs. It doable buy you will pay $$$.
    A defosting rear window makes sense. Do a google search. You can put them on yourself but they are easily dammaged. A genuine Toyota window (replaced will be hundrededs I would imagine. I wouldnt do it but it would be an inconvience to say the least. Maybe Toyota wont be so much...
    Generally it is best NOT to get things like PW PL etc etc. They are the first things to break and they cost $$$ to have fixed. It may interest you to know that in Germany it is only recently (late 1980s) theat Germans would even consider PW on their Mercedes. Crank winders last longer and are cheaper to fix. My wife spend $800 getting the drivers PW on her Accord fixed (several times to the shop)
    Good Luck!
  • nippononlynippononly Member Posts: 12,555
    How funny! I have an '02 like your '03, which I originally bought just as a stopgap for a year or two, but which I have lately been turned on to a bit more, and have been looking into upgrades for.

    So let me go through your items one by one:
    - clock: this is not too expensive, as it is already wired for it behind the panel. The clock itself is really easy to install - you could do it, or for $95 or less your dealer will do it (California labor prices). Now the clock itself will, believe it or not, cost you like $195 from the dealer, so I would check recyclers - most cars that end up there are because of being hit and totalled, and the clock will usually be intact, and will cost you like $20.

    - remote mirrors - forget it! These were so rare in Echos that you will never find them at recyclers, and even if you do they are often damaged. New, from the dealer, they will easily cost you $400 for the set, and that is before you start to mess with the controls inside the car.

    rear window defroster - mine is the same way, no defroster. I have never missed it, because the car is so small that running the defroster on the front window will clear all the windows in a matter of a few minutes and keep them clear. And I live near the ocean, so we have our share of moisture in the air. Now if you live in a super-humid area like the Gulf coast, I could see where you might want it. The glass itself is on the order of $300, again much much cheaper if you could find an intact piece at a recycler. However, you have to do the wiring inside the car for the switch I believe, which is a hassle, and adds a couple of hundred dollars if you have a shop do it.

    keyless entry/alarm: if you have power locks, then you can buy the Toyota alarm system for around $250, which gives you both in one package. If you have the dealer install it (which I would recommend - it is no picnic, and needs to be programmed once it is in), that will be another $200 or so. If you don't already have power locks, then forget it - putting in keyless would be way expensive. Just get an aftermarket alarm from a stereo shop if you really want it. Should be able to get a decent but basic one for $200-300 installed.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • tackmitackmi Member Posts: 2
    I'm a college student and just purchased a used 2003 Echo with only 3,800 miles on it. That's right 3,800... the owners said they always got a good chuckle from the DMV whenever they went to renew the registration. It was owned by an elderly couple and it goes without saying they really didn't need the car... it even still SMELLED new. This is my first car so I know nothing about vehicle maintenance.

    I've looked at the maintenance manual that came with the car, but since the car is 3 years old with barely 4000 miles on it, I'm not sure what to do. Do I follow the maintenance schedule according to per miles or according to months/year?

    The only thing I've done so far is change the oil... is there any other fluids or parts I should change or inspect? Would it be best to take the car into a Pepboys or something to have a whole overall inspection or would I be able to do all the stuff they do on my own without much difficulty? Any other safety advice would be greatly appreciate! :)
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Member Posts: 1,694
    It all depends how you drive the car. Short distance driving means more frequent oil changes. Longer distance driving allows more time/distance between oil changes. But your instinct to change the the oil was correct! Really, there is nothing you need to do to the car at this point. Get out your owners manual and read the maintenace section. You will see there is little to do until 30,000 miles except change the oil and rotate the tires.
    I suggest an oil and filter change every 4 months (assuming you dont drive more than 5k miles per change)
    Other than that, sit down and drive it! Sounds like you got a nice car there!
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Member Posts: 1,694
    Wait a minute there is something you CAN do. Do you have the service records for the car? Check the number of oil changes it has had. If it hasnt been many, I suggest driving the car for a week with its new oil change. Then change the oil and filter again. If the car has spent a whole three years on the same oil, you want to flush it out. You might even change it again after another week of driving. Oil and filters are cheap. DONT put synthetic oil in it either. It isnt necessary until it gets VERY cold where you live.
  • tackmitackmi Member Posts: 2
    I'm in Massachusetts and drive to New Hampshire for an internship 5 days a week... it's about 150 miles each day and I can easily do anywhere from 800-900 in a week.

    Since most if not all of my drive is spent on the highway, I was at first weary reading the comments on how the car can feel unstable at high speeds, but this is where the importance of fuel efficiency REALLY came into play for me; plus it's a cute car. At around 85 mph it can feel a little unsettling, but heck it just serves as a reminder to slow down.
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Member Posts: 1,694
    Wow thats a lot of miles! Under these conditions I would change the oil and filter under the least severe schedule in the owners manual. Thats either 7500 or 10,000 miles every six months. (Im not sure about the mileage but Ill look it up). You even might want to go with synthetic oil and change it every 15,000 miles. (although more frequent changes with regular oil would tend to flush contaminents out of the engine) Your car is running under conditions which are most favorable. You could really be one of those drivers who see 250,000 plus miles. The ECHO is just the car to do it in also. Its very well made and reliable with few problems.
    I rarely drive on the highway but the last time I did at 60-65 mpg I got something like 51 mpg. People make too much out of the crosswind problem. The ECHO handles very well indeed although 80 is about tops for me!
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Member Posts: 1,694
    A couple weeks ago my Sunoco station dug their tanks up. So i had to go to a Mobile station where i used to go. I got 33 mpg on their gas! Switched to a BP on the way to work and mileage is back to~40. Didnt think that was possible!
  • GrumblesharkGrumbleshark Member Posts: 8
    I commute roughly 140 miles per day in my 2000 Echo for almost 3 straight years. My main drag is a major interstate, though at times it is stop-and-go during rush hour. The car feels stable at higher speeds and I don't get shoved around by the wake of larger vehicles.

    I average about 34 mpg in the warm months, slightly less during the winter. I change my oil every 4000-5000 miles. I wouldn't compromise on the oil changes. "Synthetic oil is a good choice if you have a high performance engine or if you live in an extremely cold climate, otherwise it provides no benefit (but no harm either)." (http://www.nordicgroup.us)

    I'm about to schedule a 100,000 mile maintenance for this car. I am not expecting much but new front brakes and spark plugs. :)http://a332.g.akamai.net/f/332/936/12h/www.edmunds.com/media/townhall/webxicons/- emotorcons/emo_smiley.gif
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Member Posts: 1,694
    I was wondering how much the "intelligence" feature of the VTTi affects mileage. Would you say you drive aggressively with frequent brisk accelerations? (Like you might have to in traffic)
    Have your valve clearances been checked? if so i was wondering if you knew what they were? If they havent been checked and you plan to drive your ECHO for many more thousands of miles thats something you d want checked.
  • pulgopulgo Member Posts: 400
    My 2001 Echo has 153k miles and I am on my 8th oil change (about 20K per OCI). I've used both Amsoil 5W-30 and Mobil 1, 5W-30 EP.

    Based on oil analysis I could go much longer between changes. So far, the car uses no oil between changes. No topping up, NADA, ZIP.

    My commute is 40 miles each way, mostly highway. My average MPG is 41.
  • nippononlynippononly Member Posts: 12,555
    So was that car worth the money you spent, or what??!! :-)

    Mine just crossed the 74K threshold, same fuel economy as yours and has no oil consumption either. But then, it has half the miles of yours...

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • kneisl1kneisl1 Member Posts: 1,694
    Frequent highway miles are the easiest miles possible to put on a car. You are likely to be rewarded with a very high mileage total on the car and engine. My ECHO is operated under the most difficult of circumstances, less than 100 miles per week and rarely more than 6.5 miles per trip. I change my oil three times a year, regardless of miles. (which average less than 2000 miles per change) The one thing that works to its advantage is rarely being operated above 45 mpg. This should increase the life of the brakes, tires and suspension.
  • nippononlynippononly Member Posts: 12,555
    tire and suspension life be dictated more by the general condition of the roads you cover rather than the speed of operation?

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • kneisl1kneisl1 Member Posts: 1,694
    The faster you go the faster these things wear out.
  • pulgopulgo Member Posts: 400
    The car is definitely worth the money. It is easily the most reliable car I have ever had and I have had many.

    I am confident that with proper maintenance 500k miles is absolutely possible with the original engine and transmission.
  • pulgopulgo Member Posts: 400
    Although out of my 40 mile commute 25 miles are highway, the other 15 miles are stop and go and it takes me about 1 hour and 15 minutes each way.
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