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Toyota Echo

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Comments

  • The Goodyear Integritys that are OEM on my 2001 2DR will need to be replaced around 20,000 Mi. if I'm lucky. Has anyone had a good experience with replacement tires on their Echo?
  • cwo4cwo4 Posts: 90
    I put Dunlop D60 A2's on my 2000 ECHO after 30K on the OEM Bridgestone Portenza's. Dunlop is holding up better than the Brodgestone, IMHO.
  • My thought on Edmunds is that they are not unbiased. I would take what they say about ANY car with a grain of salt.

    I have a 2001 Echo. Do I feel the wind as I drive? Yes. Do I feel as I am in danger? No.
  • The shift points to use to maximize fuel economy are listed in one of the books that comes with your Toyota. I do not remember most of them right off hand, but I do remember that you should shift from 1st to 2nd at around 15mph.

    And as far as coasting in neutral when you are a block away from the stoplight or stop sign. CUT IT OUT! As the other poster said, what you are doing is dangerous.
  • What are you doing to your tires that you need to replace them now? I have the same tires on mine and my car has about 18,000 miles on it. Tires still have a lot of tread left. I think the Goodyears are supposed to last fifty thousand miles.
  • sfechosfecho Posts: 26
    A friend is considering the purchase of an Echo.
    The dealer is trying to sell them a "new" 2001
    model. I told my friend the dealer should offer a discount on the 2001. Can anyone guess what a reasonable discount would be?
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,683
    YOU tell them what you want to pay, demonstrate your sincerity to buy the car, and walk out if they dont go for it. Make sure they have your telephone number. My local Toyota dealer is advertising a 2002 ECHO with manual trans, ps, 3 in 1 radio for $10998
  • lleroilleroi Posts: 112
    "How can that be"?,you ask.According to a very reliable source(the major),used Echi(?)sell for more then new ones.Although this 2001 is new they may be planning to tittle it,thereby increasing it's value.
  • At the risk of feeding the troll, let me respond to that.

    If you check out, the Kelly Blue Book for July to December 2001, you will see that the retail price for a 2000 Echo in excellent condition is higher than the MSRP when the car was new.

    Also, I have seen a couple of examples locally that confirmed this.
  • How many miles does the 2001 have on it and what is the build date?

    If there are very few miles on the vehicle and the build date is within six months, I am not sure your friend should expect any discount on that basis.
  • sfechosfecho Posts: 26
    As I mentioned, the 2001 is "new" that is never sold to a customer and has less than 50 miles.
    If both cars have a $14,000 MSRP, does anyone know what the discount should be for a car that is simply a year older in model year?
  • lleroilleroi Posts: 112
    resale and a new one is sold at less then MSRP,I would think in the neighborhood of $11,000 would be fair.I am assuming this is a fairly optioned out car.
  • There is a thread in the Smart Shopper section entitled Real World Trade In Values. I would post your question there. You are likely to get a definitive answer.

    Be sure to post all the pertinent information about the car including mileage, color, and location.
  • vocusvocus Posts: 7,777
    I am trying to pick a low-priced car that's good on gas for my dad to drive. I will use the car sometimes to commute in as well. I want it to be reliable, comfortable, and also well built. Sounds like my total choice would be the Echo, right? Well, yes and no.

    I wonder if I can get the seat track for the driver's seat moved back an inch or so? If I could, the car would be perfect.
  • Well, with enough money, anything is theoretically possible. ; )
  • vocusvocus Posts: 7,777
    If money was not an object, you think I would be shopping an Echo???
  • wrgrahamwrgraham Posts: 112
    In a recent message you indicated shift points at 10, 20, 30, 40-45. They may work fine for good gas mileage. And they may be no problem for the engine if you come down very softly on the accelerator after the shift. But really you are working the engine at revs lower than what is best for it. You want to keep the engine up into the range where the torque provided is in the realm of efficient operation. Otherwise you are being unfriendly to your Echo. The torque reaches its band of good strength at about 1800-1900 rpms. So figure 2000 rpm to be safe and shift at the following points, 15, 30, 40, 50. Going uphill I would shift into 4th and 5th a little later, whereas going downhill you could hit all the shifts slightly earlier. This is my viewpoint only, of course.
  • How did you come to the conclusion that 1800-1900 is when the Echo reaches its "band of good strength"? Just curious as I've always wondered at what point is the best shifting point from the "being friendly to the engine" POV.
    Thanks,
    Rich
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