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Toyota Echo

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Comments

  • likrishlikrish Posts: 8
    rjgee,

    By how much are you raising me? I'm a little over 215,800 now. If yours has more, I bow to you and will give up my bragging rights. But until then, it's all mine. I will add, the check engine light came on just today. It's on steady, not blinking, so I will assume until I have a diagnostic run that it's not serious.
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,689
    The CEL doesnt blink. Houston, you have a problem. If its something related to the fuel/air mixture its possible it could fry your cat. Soon.
  • rjgeerjgee Posts: 27
    I'm only playing; I concede bragging rights, but I am slightly over 215k :) The last few months have brought no more daily commute, but I do have another 1200 mile trip coming end of month. Good to see another semi high mileage Echo...

    Kneisl, the cel light does blink if there is a serious problem that can affect the cat. Also, you can't buy a cat at the junkyard. They aren't allowed to sell them.
  • likrishlikrish Posts: 8
    I'm just playing too, but it's fun. So your Echo gets a little break eh? Well, it deserves it. Yes it is good to see other semi high mileage Echos out there. I haven't been able to get to a diagnostic center yet for the "check engine" light, but I'll post after I find out what the prob is. I'm replacing fan belts today.
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,689
    Whether it flashes or not, a CEL is a danger to the good health of your faithfull ECHO. Probably its not serious. But you wouldnt want to have that great little car get a fatal complication after all its good service to date. It has more good days ahead!
  • rep5858rep5858 Posts: 45
    I was driving a few blocks and car started to hesitae, shake. CEL on. Drove fine next 200 miles. Took it to mechanic said on code it was a speed sensor. What is this? should it be replaced?
    thanks
    rick
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,689
    Did he give you a code number? If you have the number I can look it up. Something is wrong so you might as well let him replace it.
  • rep5858rep5858 Posts: 45
    Hi . The code is either OP500 or PO500. Forget which.
    Oh, I called two dealers asking them if I can tow a small boat combined weight of 500 lbs. Both said no something about a subframe?? any comments. Several sites list a towing capacity for the echo. I have been towing a few times each season about 100 miles total for the season. Now , I dont know if I should stop towin the boat because of what the service guys said???
    rick
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,689
    I towed a 2000 pouund boat and trailer with my 1980 Subaru Hatchback thousands of miles up and down hill. I had no problems. I never exceeded 40 mph and rarely went over 20 miles a tow. Ive towed a 500 pound boat with my ECHO doaens of times. No problem.
    Toyota is probably concerned about some idiot towing a large boat 75 mpg over dirt roads. That would nt be a good idea!
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,689
    Yes PO 500 is the vehiccle speed Sensor. They say check 1) conbination meter (I thik the speedo) 2) open or short in sensor circuit 3) sensor itself 4) ECM.

    If you want to change it its under the air cleaer assy which you need to remove. Unbolt the old and bolt in the new. Theres an O ring that needs to be removed. Also, a simple snap ring that holds a shaft and drive gear to the sensor. You need to install the shaft/gear onto the new sensor. It looks easy. But note changing the sensor it #3 on the list so that might not fix it.
  • rep5858rep5858 Posts: 45
    Hey thanks for all the info so far:) Anyway, yeasterday I when I firat started driving the car's transmission started slipping, after a few blocks. This happened the first time the CEL came on. I figure it's a trans problem. Drove to a trans shop. He test drove it , but it did not slip. It seems after its warmed up the trans runs normal. He said 500 is not a trans code but an engine code. But trans slipping. I dont get it. Now its in the shop over the weekend., so he can drive it cold monday morning. Also he said solenoids could be bad. I just hope its not the trans. I drove the car 140 miles after the first slipping of trans and cel on.
    rick
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,689
    Change the speed sensor! Check the wiring for shorts! It concievable that has something to do with the transmission.
  • rep5858rep5858 Posts: 45
    Thanks . I just hope it's not the transmission itself. Thats about 2 grand to replace/rebuild.
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,689
    Cheap compared to a new/nother car! Could be the control valve which looks easy to replace. If the car is in good shape otherwise its cost effective to fix if it gets you another four years driving.
  • rep5858rep5858 Posts: 45
    Hi. The trans was slipping and CEL came on. Had it to my mechanic. He erased po500 code. Took it to lee myles transmissions. He said 500 code isnt transmission problem . Anyway since previuos mechanic erased the code the car's CEL would have to come on again, to be recheked by lee myles. It hasn't in 4 days now. Could it be the computer relearned itself? Before this light went on I drove with 2 passengers to NYC and back, all through Manhatten.
    thanks
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,689
    No I doubt the computer has fixed itself. The light will most likely come back on. The PO500 is a speed sensor problem. It DOES appear the speed sensor is bolted to the transmission. (it under the air cleaner housing) Its possible it could be affecting the transmission.
  • rep5858rep5858 Posts: 45
    Should I replace this speed sensor now, or wait to the CEL comes on again? Can you do it yourself?
    thanks, as always
    rick
  • babyboomerbabyboomer Posts: 205
    I drove my 2001 Echo loaded with luggage almost the length of Georgia and back, a total of 473 miles and used only 10.583 gallons. That's about 9 hours of driving using cruise control on a fast traffic I-75 and the temps in the 90s required constant air conditioning. And I had stop-and- go traffic in Atlanta for about 30 minutes. This is the longest trip I have ever done in the Echo, which now has traveled 67,833 miles.

    I was shocked that it gave me a terrific 44.69 mpg.
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,689
    Great! But Im not surprised.
  • maarty10maarty10 Posts: 5
    Hi guys, I am new here. I have a 2000 echo. I started reading here a few days ago. My engine trouble light came on ten days ago. At the dealer I was told they didnt know what it was about and cleared the computer. Several days later the light came back on. Into a different toyota dealer I went and was told the computer showed a costly catalytic converter repair was needed.
    I called my neighborhood mechanic who said he could do the repair for half or less; who also said not to have the trouble light cleared. He wanted to read the code for himself. The light went out by itself so I cancelled the appointment.
    So, two days ago I am coming home from work, I go to pull away from a light and the engine shudders; its vibrating, shaking the whole car. At first I thought it was the transmission. I took the car to the local mechanic. He called me saying #4 cylinder was not firing. A wiring problem he said. 2 hrs later he called to say the computer is defective and has to be replaced. Expensive for a new one; over 900 dollars. Less so for a used one; under 400 installed.
    The lesson? Dont trust technology, or toyota dealer mechanics; by the way, there is nothing wrong with the catalytic converter. That would have been 1200 at the dealer.
    Just thought you guys would like to know.
  • rjgeerjgee Posts: 27
    If you have a cylinder that has been misfiring, it can cause cat damage. The light will come on occasionally as the ecu does its test for the cat efficiency. If the cat is marginal, it will also depend on how you drive.

    You can get a used ECU for around $50. Check www.car-part.com. It's only about 5 minutes to swap them. If you choose to get one yourself, only get the 3rd generation or later 52673 (assuming automatic). Do NOT get the 52671 or 52672; they both have a problem that can cause random misfires at startup.

    Did you ask how he knows its the ECU? Thats usually one of the last things they replace when trying to diagnose a problem...
  • maarty10maarty10 Posts: 5
    Hey, thank you very much for the feedback. The car-part.com info was excellent. What a great site. Your info about the version code of the newer computer was also very good; as it turns out that is the code of the unit found for my car. I will find out tomorrow how he diagnosed the problem. I will get back to you.
    Thanks again for the feedback; you have been very helpful. I love this little car.
  • maarty10maarty10 Posts: 5
    Robert I owe you a beer or two. You have saved me 285 dollars. Yesterday when I had still not heard back from my mechanic I called him after I had read your post - to tell him I wanted only a computer with 52673. It had just arrived at his shop and he assured me it was 52673 - I mentioned the 3 at the end of the code 3 times just to make sure. Yeah yeah yeah he said.
    Ok, here is where it gets interesting. Its two brothers who run this shop. The one I spoke with yesterday doesnt work today, but his brother does. When I hadnt heard from the shop by 2:00 I dedided to drop by. Brother 2 says he has put in the replacement computer, but that one of the injectors is dead - he is waiting for his supplier to send a new one, and that he is only charging me for the new injector and no labour since I havent bugged him. Its been 4 days. Ok I say. and 2 hours later he calls to say my car is ready.
    He hands me the invoice. I pay him, and nonchalantly ask for the old computer. He says "I threw it out" and then without skipping a beat says "actually I traded it back to the supplier" I reply, "Well I know of a place that will refurbish a bad one and give a lifetime warranty on it for 300 dollars. He says, "Uh, call me monday and I will call the supplier" Ok I say, "and what was wrong with the injector? He gets it and shows it to me and puts a circuit tester on it. Its dead. I drive away, and 20 minutes later on a hunch pull over and check the numbers on the computer. Guess what? You probably already did. The number on the ecu is 52672. I went home and printed out a copy of our correspondence and go back to the shop.
    I tell brother 2 about the discrepancy of the number on the ecu. He says he just installed what was left for him by brother 1 and doesnt know anything else. I say "is it possible the original ecu was mistakenly left out and thats what is in the car now? If call toyota with my vin# are they going to tell me 52672 was original to the car?
    Brother 2 says let me call my brother and see whats going on, leave it with me.
    45 minutes later he calls me and says come back to the shop, a mistake has been made, thats the original computer in your car.
    I get to the shop and he hands me 285 cash. I thank him and say, "what I dont get is how is it that the car is running fine with a bad computer? " He is all red in the face, and says," It must be a bad injector, the computer is fine, thats good right?"
    Right.
    Thanks again Robert. Your a good man.
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,689
    Not unusual. This is why I recommend you work on your own car as much as possible. Whatever you can do. The more you work on it the more you will learn. The less vulnerable you will be to things like this.
    My sons Altima had a bad injector last winter. I figured thats what it was. I cant work on cars anymore so he took it to the mechanic himself. They sold him on a $300 flush job. Had I been there I would have said no change the injector, its dead electrically so flushing isnt going to help. They had to have known that. So they charged $300 for the flush and another $300 for the new injector. They discounted a little for the flush but the dammage was done.
  • likrishlikrish Posts: 8
    Thought I'd post again. In a previous posting, I mentioned that my CEL had come on. The diagnostic said that "bank #1" was running lean. A few days before the light came on I had installed new spark plugs. They were the kind with the double ignition points. I wasn't able to get to a diagnostic center right away and but after about 4 days the light went off and hasn't been on since. It's been a couple of weeks. My MPG went up so now I'm getting about 42-43 MPG consistently. BTW, this is a great forum.
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,689
    For what its worth I belive bank 1 referes to the first of two oxygen sensors in the exhaust system.
  • rjgeerjgee Posts: 27
    The echo only has bank 1. V6/V8 engines have 2 banks.
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,689
    I see. The serice manual shows two sensors, bank 1 sensor 1 and bank 1 sensor 2.
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,689
    Where I live Pep Boys is having a special promotion. Pennzoil or Quaker State oil 69 cents a quart after rebate. You have to pay $2.39 a quart up front. Oil filters to fit your ECHO (Purolator L14476) for 1 cent each after rebate. You can buy up to four filters for 1 cent each. You have to get their rebate sheet which should be at the front desk. Look on the sheet and find these items. Im assuming this is everywhere Pep Boys is so youre in luck if theres one near you.
  • babyboomerbabyboomer Posts: 205
    What is the best product to remove smears on the inside of windows and windshield? BonAmi, Windex, vinegar, glass wax, etc?
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