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Toyota Echo



  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,685
    How many miles were on the cladding when it failed?
  • sfechosfecho Posts: 26
    I was at my Toyota dealer today, getting the brake line recall done and also got the rattling door lock pulls fixed. There is a TSB on the door locks.
    I had the service coordinator show me the mystery cabin air filter.
    If you remove the glove box by squeezing its sides, look for a white plastic panel with tabs on each side behind the glove box. Pull the filter out by the tabs. He said it should be replaced every 18 months if it is humid or dusty where you drive. Since its neither of those here in San Francisco, I'm not going to worry, besides it costs $31.14!
  • janbeejanbee Posts: 127
    I have about 17,000KM now and it happened a couple months ago so prob started peeling back at 15-16,000KM.
  • wrgrahamwrgraham Posts: 112
    Several days back there were some exchanges about using 89 or higher octane being a possible cause of carbon buildup. I very much disagree. I use the 89 octane and am now at 67K miles and my Echo runs great. At 90K it will be time to replace the iridium plugs. The only Toyota vehicle that I have used with regular gas is my 89 pickup, which is the most basic model and hasn't a lot of power coming out of that 22R engine. Still I can get pinging coming up the hill to my house, in 3rd gear, which is not there with the 89 octane.
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,685
    I agree I dont see how 89 octane can cause carbon buildup. Neither does it make sence that a car with so little mileage would have this probelm (I could be wrong) Nor would fuel additives make a bit of difference if you DID have carbon buildup. (I guess Im negitive today)
  • kaz6kaz6 Posts: 331
    I have used 89 & 87 octane and the differences for me are: 87 gives me the best mileage and 89 gets rid of knocking/pinging at idle.
    The 89 octane actually lowers my mpg as well.
    As far as carbon build-up...I don't know. I've used 89 octane in my previous car with no ill effect and three motorcycles ran on Premium when only 87 was req'd. The cylinder heads in those motyorcycles were very clean as were the exhaust outlets.
  • The check light came on again one day after the carbon deposits cleaning was done and the computer was reset. My son returned the Echo to the dealer. They wanted to check everything so gave him a nice loaner for the day. When he returned, the service provider said they would have to order a part that has something to do with the fuel system (my son is not mechanically knowledgeable so he is not sure what they ordered). The check light is still on and the engine still idles rough when cold. The earliest we can get the car back to the dealer will be next Friday. The Customer Service Rep has not contacted me yet about the initial fuel system cleaning charges. To be continued.
  • I have 39,000 miles on my 2000 ECHO and it has always been serviced at specified intervals with dino oil. I drive about 320 miles per week at freeway speeds.

    I plan to keep this car as long as possible. At this point, would it make any sense to flush the oil and move to synthetic oil? If so, is one brand better than another?

    Thanks for any insights.
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,685
    As I suspected there was no carbon buildup in your engine, there was some other problem which they apparently solved. Id try to get my money back for the bogus "cleaner" treatment. (let this be a lesson to others as well)
    There is absolutely NO advantage to switching to synthetic oil, it will only be more expensive. Synthetic oil will only help your car start in really (0 degrees F or lower) temperatures. You should continue following the maintainence schedule and use regular oil. I realize you are concerned about keeping your car in as good a shape as possible, but synthetic oil IS NO BETTER THAN REGULAR OIL for this purpose. It only works better in extreme conditions.
  • vadpvadp Posts: 1,025
    Make your own decision by reading this forum.

    WARNING:there are lots of things to learn.
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,685
    One thing I forgot to mention. If the check engine light comes on the first thing to do is 1) check the gasket of the gas cap. If its bad, replace it. 2) make sure the gas cap is on tightly because if its not, the check engine light will come on and there may be other problems.
    Its something you can do yourself.
  • Riding down I10 and the darn window start to crack. No rock hit it, just a small crack at the very top on passenger side. Next morning went to my dealership they were unable to say it was an impact crack. So tomorrow they will replace windshield. Just never heard of this on any car. What cause it I have no idea but one old timer at the service desk said it use to occur on some Toyota.
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,685
    Perhaps it was installed improperly. Ive had replacement windows break like that and when I brought it back they said it wasnt put in right.
  • vocusvocus Posts: 7,777
    It was a stress crack. Could have been the glass that was not heat tempered properly when made.
  • kaz6kaz6 Posts: 331
    I passed the 40k mark a couple of weeks ago! I have a 4-dr./5-spd/'01. I've been running it on Mobil 1 5-30 and Yokohama YK420's getting avg. of 35mpg. The Yokohama's are very quiet on most surfaces (they have aggressive tread pattern) but are kinda noisey on concrete. The tread looks like it'll hold up to 50-60k.
    My engine idles with a bit more noise than when new and I had a creaking sound from the back-the latch on the seatbacks needed oiling. Other than that, it's holding up fairly well.
    If anyone is planning on extended highway driving, I highly recommend using a bra as the design of the front end takes a beating-the nose is fairly blunt and seems to get more stone damage than other cars I've owned. I went through some bad windstorms in the desert and have to have my hood and front bumper repainted. :p
    I plan on upgrading my shocks for something firmer at 50k. Any suggestions out there?
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,685
    I jusr read the average price for a new car is $25,000. My ECHO cost 1/2 that. Gotta love it!
      Unfortunately I have no idea where to get different things like shocks for the ECHO. They (the shocks) are pretty small though.
  • My Echo has 34,000 miles under its belt and has been absolutely spiffy. I change the oil every 3000 miles at the zippy lube. I get a chassi lube for my 1990 riviera, but they say the Echo does not need one. I paid $90 for two seat covers from Toyota which seemed expensive at the time, but now I'm glad I did it. Why doesn't the Echo need a chassi lube? I also got the darkest window tinting allowed by law ($150 at a specialty shop) and it looks great with the white paint. I paid $12,300 for the two door, auto, air and rear window defogger package.
  • vadpvadp Posts: 1,025
    Modern cars don't need any chassis lubing.
    It's been that way for quite some time. I'm surprised to hear that your 1990 Riviera does need it.
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,685
    Hey it could be worse. They might have charged you $$$ for a lube you did not need. At least they were honest! Usually things like ball joints, tie rod ends, and driveshafts get hit with the grease gun, but ECHO doesnt have that kind of drive shaft and all of the other places are sealed for life. Whatever that means. Good luck with your ECHO...sounds like a typical story.
  • kaz6kaz6 Posts: 331
    I took the advice of a prior posting and checked out that white box behind the glove-box. There is a tray for an air filter to go into that is right above the fan housing. I think I will splurge and buy the filter as my finger picked up a lot of Los Angeles residue on the edges!~
    I guess they have a pollen filter as available or standard equipment on the Yaris? I would think that Toyota would mention at least the availability of pollen filter on the a/c. In a polluted area like LA, it comes in very handy.
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