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Mercedes-Benz E-Class Sedans



  • lenscaplenscap Posts: 854
    Don't worry, you didn't offend me.

    As for the integrity of cars, my neighbor has the original 1990 Lexus LS400 and it seems as good as new. But I've only owned two cars in my life, so I'll take your word for it.

    By the way, you are one lucky person to have both a Lexus and an MB!
  • the MB chat tonight has been cancelled. I hope that those of you in NYC or Washington are okay!

    Vans, SUVs, and Aftermarket & Accessories message boards
  • wnielwniel Posts: 97
    Yes, I'm happy with my 98 ML now after many ticky tacky problems with it when it was new. I have stuck with it taking it back to the dealer many times. Laguna Niguel MB worked with me and have corrected all of the problems. I now have nearly 50K on it and it continues to now run very well.
    I also bought a new E430 last year from them and the car is incredible in the way it performs.
  • To those of you who live in New York City, and in particularly Manhatten, we want to assure you that we share your deep pain and sadness. Same to our Virginian members civilian or military. You are not alone in this.
  • Thanks for your thoughts. It certainly has been a somber atmosphere for us lucky ones who are here.

    It seems everyone in the NY area has been touched by this tragedy.

    Best Regards,

  • I noticed yesterday that my passenger side lights
    seem to have a bit of "moisture vapor" inside of them. The rain here has been horrific as a tropical storm passes through my area. My car has been in as much as 4 inches of water. This thin film inside the lights usually dries clear within an hour of being out of the rain.

    Can moisture seep inside these lights? If so, does the heavy rain on the ground create an environment for the moisture to get in from the bottom of the car?

    Before yesterday I never noticed this problem. Regular rain storms and car washes with the hose do not seem to cause this problem. Should I bother going to the dealership and getting the driver's side lights replaced? The driver's side Xenon and driving lights do not have the problem.
  • The bulbs are located inside a sealed housing. When humidity sips in, it condensates on the exterior glass. This is an indication that your cover "seal" is damaged and must be replaced. The dealer will certainly replace the seal under warranty but may not do so for the bulb before it is dead. On my 99 E320 4matic, the dealer replaced the driver side seal, then after few weeks he had to replaced the whole cover to stop moisture. Please keep us informed.
  • wnielwniel Posts: 97
    I wouldn't be too concerned about the moisture as it is more than likely condensation and should dry out within a few days when things dry and warm up. Those lights do have a certain amount of humidity in the space as it is not a vacuum so when the light is cooled down from the rain condensation will form on the inside of the glass. This problem is exacerbated by the high humidity in the area where you live.
  • Thanks, the lights have already dried out.
    I have never seen so much rain here and the humidity is high. My car has been through as much as 4-5 inches of water and the splashing-up was intense.

    Should I wait to see if this problem re-occurs?
    Does having Xenon lights alter my approach?
    The problem was only on the passenger side which was exposed to extra heavy splashing and intense pressure as the water pooled on the side of the roads.
  • If moisture is dried out completely then you should not worry about it. This moisture sips from the inside when the light assembly is splashed by driving rain. It is waterproof by not water resistant. I am glad your problem is gone.
  • The rain sensor on my 2001 E-430 does not wipe soon enough to keep the windshield clean, at least to my liking. The dealer checked it out and said it is working correctly. Does anyone else have the same problem, and if so, has it been corrected by the dealer?
  • I assume the e55 has the same sensor. It doesn't wipe as quickly as I would like to, and it feels as if it's about a second or two behind my feeling that it should work, most of the time. At other times it seems to function adequately and at other times, when it's sort of dark out, I think it functions more quickly. My understanding is that there is a light sensing unit which when light is decreased causes the motor to work.
  • 2ndmb2ndmb Posts: 72
    I'm on my second front wiper blade in the last year on my 2000 E and it scrapes like crazy. Has anyone ever tried the Bosch Micro Edge Excel? I've heard this is better than the oem blade.
  • I have a 2000 E-class with chrome wheels, I keep the car very clean except for one spot. How do you clean the dirt/rust that accumulates around the lug nuts on the wheels? I've tried wheel cleaners to no avail. It looks terrible in the sunlight, any suggestions are appreciated.
  • htohto Posts: 21
    The Bosch Micro Edge is very good. I got the same problem for several times, not on my MB so far but other cars. I replaced them with Bosch and it worked beautifully.
  • wnielwniel Posts: 97
    You need to get the chromed plastic caps that fit over the wheel bolts. They can be obtained at most tire stores that sell wheels. You also may even be able to buy them at your MB dealership. I also have the chrome wheels on my 2000 E430 and have no problems that you describe as I have the caps on head of the bolts.
  • Thanks for the info Wally, I'll check it out.
  • My E-430 came with lug bolts that have a metal dome cap about 0.080" thick bonded to the top of the bolt itself. When I ordered my Blizzaks on AMG wheels for winter driving, an additional set of bolts were shipped with the wheels. The only difference with the new bolts was the length of the hex part of the bolt, due, presumably, to the different depth of the bolt well in the wheel. These bolts had the same cap on them as the originals, so I assume this is the normal bolt design for MB wheels. These caps look about the same as the bolt metal, which I assume is plated to control corrosion. Their appearance is of a gray, dull galvanizing with the dome cap actually a slightly darker gray than the main body of the bolt.

    I polished all of these caps (only) on a power buffing wheel charged with a red compound stick and they came out bright and shiny - looking like bright nickel or chrome. I was and still am pleased with the result. IMHO, this is better than plastic caps since those can be very hard to remove so the lug wrench can be installed on the bolts to remove them. The clearance for caps is very small. I was somewhat worried about buffing off some corrosion protection, but so far they look great and probably could be lacquered (just the top cap) if that were a concern. I can't identify any other reason why the caps would be there other than they were intended to be polished and MB stopped doing this as a cost-cutting step? (of course, this leads to the question of why the caps would be left on unpolished. Maybe without the cap the bolt is really ugly!)

    mbman1: I'm guessing here, but if your bolts are actually rusting, and especially if you bought your chrome wheels in the aftermarket, it is possible that you do not have standard issue MB bolts, galvanized and with the cap. If it IS rust, then plastic caps are going to hold moisture in there and accelerate the rusting.
  • wnielwniel Posts: 97
    The caps that go on the lug bolts come with a device that snaps over the cap to pull off the cap in the event you need to remove the wheel. It is not a problem in removing the bolts. I have had the chrome caps on over a year now and have rotated the tires recently with no evidence of rust. IMHO I can say that with the caps they look 100% better than any bolt that has been buffed to a shine as one would need to continue to buff the bolts to keep them shiney unless they have been chrome plated.
  • I bought the chrome wheels when I purchased the car from Mercedes Benz. Therefore, I have standard MB bolts.
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