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Mercedes-Benz E-Class Sedans

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Comments

  • carnaughtcarnaught Posts: 1,600
    Wow, a definite bummer. Sorry to hear about (all of) your problems. Thus far, at three months, mine has had none of your problems and has been great. I wonder if it could be related to earlier production. Do you happen to know your build date?
  • mark156mark156 Posts: 1,992
    I was surprised to find a full size spare in my 2000 E430 sport. In a post way back, someone remarked that they found the small "donut" tire in their E-class. Personally, it doesn't matter to me one way or the other.

    The reason I noticed it was that last week someone ran into the rear of my car. The back bumper was scratched and the area under the right tail-light was slightly dented ($778.00 in damage). I dropped the car off at the repair shop and I took out everything in the car including the CD cartridge, owners manual,etc. I also thought I better take out the tools that come with the car and that's when I saw that my spare was full size.

    Hotrod... I'm sorry to hear about the trouble with your new E. I'm a little worried that Mercedes is letting their quality slip. I also have a 2002 ML500. The black plastic piece under the front bumper keeps coming loose. I also had to have the rear cup holder replace (it just fell apart). Also, there is a dash rattle that hasn't been completely eliminated after several trips to the dealer. Of course, it never rattles when the service guy rides with me. I love the vehicle but these little annoyances drive me crazy!

    Happy Motoring, Mark
  • sddlwsddlw Posts: 361
    Try Performance Products. From past experience, I have found that their catalogues have many parts listed that the web site does not so it wouldn't hurt to get on the catalogue mailing list.

    http://www.performanceproducts.com/default.aspx?referer=1034
  • adeeladeel Posts: 9
    Is there a way to find out when my car was built.
    Thanks.
  • mbdrivermbdriver Posts: 426
    Open the driver's door and read the plate on the post. It should state the month and year of build.
  • lmtayl2lmtayl2 Posts: 3
    I believe you can tell what year the car was built from the VIN number. Look at the last eight to fourteen characters.
  • jgraveljgravel Posts: 54
    Has anyone heard about availablity yet? Is it still October or has the timeframe moved in/out?

    Thanks
  • EdsotoEdsoto Posts: 42
    What Dreams are made of...

    (and nightmares if the car doesn't run or you have dealer/service issues, or like me TIMEPORT problems...)

    :)
  • It is broken and it seems easy enough to replace it. Anyone knows where I mail order one? Or know the part number?
  • donald02donald02 Posts: 54
    I have an '01 E-430 and I had a key malfunction. Mercedes ordered a new key and when it arrived I took the car to the dealer and they reprogrammed the key and sent me on my way in 15 minutes, NO CHARGE!

    If your dealer says over 8 hours to reprogram, you are being scammed. Get a new dealer!
  • clark217clark217 Posts: 25
    Can anyone tell me how to replace the bulb for the front side-marker lights on 1997 W-210 (the rectangular lights on the sides of the front fenders)? Does the cover just pop off? Anyone know what type of bulb or part number?
    Thanks in advance

    Clark217
  • MAJOR AUDIO GATEWAY AND SRS GLITCHES HAVE HAD 2 CARS Already 1 buy back if any if aNY ONE IS HAVING ACCCELATOR,SRS OR AUDIO GATEWAY PROBLEMS PLEASE EMAIL ME AT DERONFERGY@AOL.COM
  • cduongcduong Posts: 70
    #4845 of 4846 Replace front Side marker bulb for W210 by clark217 Apr 14, 2003 (6:35 pm)
    Can anyone tell me how to replace the bulb for the front side-marker lights on 1997 W-210 (the rectangular lights on the sides of the front fenders)? Does the cover just pop off? Anyone know what type of bulb or part number?
    Thanks in advance ... Clark217

    Clark217.. not sure if 1997 is any difference that my 1996 E320. I replaced the light bulb in 1 minute. The plastic cover, in front of your front tire, has a "square" opening. Push your finger in and force a plastic hinge forward... Your yellow light cover will pop off and you can remove a bulb by turning it. Go to Pepboys and buy light bulbs... $1.99 for a pack of two. MB dealer will charge you $5.00 each... What a way to make money. Good luck
  • danncasdanncas Posts: 24
    I presently have a C class. My retirement car miht be a E class. But for now I'm not sure it will be a Mercedes. I have a 1998 Class it has been great. But it seem that anything made past 2002 is not so great. Does anyone really know why? Does anyone think that the cars look more Amercian now too? As it stands now I am going to buy a 2004 SAAB.
  • mbdrivermbdriver Posts: 426
    Does MB still offer a discount for European delivery? And if not, when and why did they stop?
  • danncasdanncas Posts: 24
    No MB doesnt. nor VW or Audi why they stopped don't know. BMW does but its a small discount about 1500.00
  • jb_shinjb_shin Posts: 357
    Actually, BMW's discount is more substantial. Typically $1,500 plus invoice is about the best deal and that works out to be about 12% off MSRP for 530i. On the other hand, Porsche actually charges more for ED.
  • mmadden1mmadden1 Posts: 17
    On a recent trip to the Outer Banks,the first 80 degree day we've seen in 6 months, I tried the AC and no cold air. I did get heat but the auto mode could not be turned off.

    This is the third time i've had problems with the AC on this car. Every spring, or so it seems, when the AC is tried for the first time, nothing happens.

    Spring 2001--it was diagnosed with no refrigerant; spring 2002--they replaced the entire temperature control module and now this.

    Anyone else had these types of problems? BTW, the car is less than 4 years old and I have 52K miles on it; any chance MB will do the right thing and fix it out of warranty? Thanks for any help.
  • mbnut1mbnut1 Posts: 403
    For sure they should fix it, if it is one the items that that they have already tampered with. I would still pursue having them eat all or a good portion of the repair even if it isn't, given the amount of trouble that you've already had with the AC
  • donald02donald02 Posts: 54
    Unless you've been driving all winter in EC (economy mode) you've been using your AC system all winter. Have you noticed moisture on the inside of your windows with the heat on when it's very humid or raining? This would be an indication the AC system crapped out long ago and before your warranty ran out! Mercedes should definitely pay for all of this.
  • lmtayl2lmtayl2 Posts: 3
    Does anyone know if Mercedes will sell an E500 fully loaded with the sports package less than MSRP? Any feedback would be appreciated. The MSRP is $60,000
  • clemboclembo Posts: 253
    You should be able to get your car for much less than MSRP. Some people are getting them at invoice price if the dealer has plenty on hand.

    I got an E500 6 months ago, it is a great car. Good luck with your negotiations.
  • donald02donald02 Posts: 54
    Mercedes are purchased from dealers not from Mercedes. Every dealer is an independent business and determines its own sales price.

    Several months ago I posted my method for purchasing cars which has worked well for me. Last week I bought a new volvo for a friend for $266 over factory cost which is determined by subtracting incentives and holdback from the invoice price. Holdback is 3 percent of MSRP on a mercedes. If your interested in learning more about dealer holdback go to Edmunds dealer holdback in your browser. My method as previously posted is:

    I have read with great interest the multitude of posts over the past 2 weeks concerning purchasing new cars. Over the past 47 years I have purchased many new cars and I thought some of you may want to consider the model I use for buying cars.

    First, you must determine what car or cars you want to buy. This may seem obvious but it's amazing how many people begin negotiations for a car when they have no idea WHAT car they want! Go to auto shows, search the automakers websites, go to EDMUNDS and other similar sites, determine repair frequencies, resale, safety, and any other factors that are important to you. When you decide what car or cars you're interested in, you can get info on costs.

    You should determine the dealer's cost to the factory for the car(s) you are interested in. This includes the invoice price, dealer holdback, and any customer and dealer incentives available. Do not worry about any dealer costs that are not paid to the factory such as advertising, financing the vehicle on the lot, paperwork, sales commission, etc. You will never be able the determine these.

    DO NOT include trade-in value of your car as part of the new car deal! If you must trade in your old car, get an offer from the dealer after you have made and sealed the deal on the new car. As far as the old car is concerned you can sell it to a dealer that makes the best offer, sell it yourself, donate it to a charity at high book value for its tax value, or maybe give it away with no tax deduction.

    After determining the car you want and its cost to the dealer, you are ready to determine a price you are willing to pay. Add to the dealer's cost to the factory the amount you are willing to pay above that to determine your price goal for the purchase. Bear in mind that sales tax and license is extra on top of your price goal. All other fees of any kind should be included in your price goal. Do not get sidetracked in negotiations by extras such as processing fees, advertising, etc. Do not accept any charges for detailing, paint sealant, fabric sealant, rustproofing, or other nebulous bullcrap. You have your number do not add anything to it except sales tax and license fees.

    Call the sales managers of all the dealerships within a reasonable distance of your residence. By talking to sales managers you may be able to avoid paying a commission to a salesman thus reducing your final price. Tell the SM exactly the car you want what exceptions you will accept and ask him to bid on the sale. I expect you will get 1/3 who will tell you to shove it where the sun don't shine, 1/3 who will give you an absurd price, but 1/3 will give you a good price probably better than your 'buy' price.

    If no one bids your buy price or better then begin negotiations with the best bidders and try to reach an acceptable deal. I believe this method will result in a price much better that any Internet deal or in-house deal. You are in control in this process. You do everything on the phone and you can hang up the phone if anyone jerks you around. Once you reach agreement, you can get a FAX stating the terms or simply give a credit card deposit of $1000. Remember, only deal for the final number plus tax and license, no other add-ons. Make sure the FAX has that statement. Although if you make a credit card payment (NO DEBIT CARDS-they have no federal cancellation protection) you can stop it if the dealership changes the deal.

    The fundamental rule of negotiating a contract is to "LEAVE SOMETHING ON THE TABLE FOR THE OTHER GUY". You have to decide what is fair and reasonable to develop your price. Do not worry about the poor dealer. He will worry about his deal and he won't worry one whit about saving you money. So you should worry about your deal and not one whit about the dealer. The result should be a good deal!

    You have to decide what non-cost factors are worth to you. For example, how much more should you pay to deal with a nearby dealer? I have never had a case where a dealer I didn't buy from refused to service my car or gave poor service because I didn't buy from them. My last new car was a 2001 Mercedes E-430 and my local dealer (1 mile away) desperately wants my service business even though I didn't buy the car from him. I purchased the Mercedes for a price well into the dealer holdback with no add-ons.

    What is a reasonable 'buy price'? Obviously, it depends on the market for the car you want. the supply of vehicles that meet your needs, your desperation to get the car you want (probably the most decisive factor for many people who will pay anything to satisfy an instant craving), and the need of the dealer to sell some cars! Whatever you do DON'T get in your car and drive to several dealers to negotiate. If you do that they have you by the cajones!! Deal on the PHONE! Make them have everything ready to sign when you arrive. No ombudsman and no finance guy. You should be out of the dealership with your new car in 30 minutes to 1 hour. If they hassle you with any new costs or other changes LEAVE and find a deal somewhere else!!

    What percentage markup to pay to get a deal? There are many factors to consider but I'd consider a goal of 2-5 percent above the dealer’s factory cost minus any dealer and customer rebates or other savings offered. You would add on tax and license to this but NO other fees of any kind!!

    Good shopping!!
  • dkatlantadkatlanta Posts: 23
    I'm ready to make the jump to 17" wheels on my 2000 E-320, which came with 16" wheels. I like the look of the Mercedes wheels that came with the sport package on the 2001 E-Class models. Does anyone know a dealership that will discount these and ship them to my tire store in Atlanta? Any other thoughts?
  • nashpittnashpitt Posts: 2
    I have a '99 E430 Sport with radio/phone/cd changer/tape player.

    I need to replace the rubberized radio knob. Mercedes says they don't make part. That I can only purchase the whole radio!

    Does anyone know where I can find just the knob?

    Thanks in advance
  • aki86aki86 Posts: 15
    dkatlanta,
    tirerack.com has several AMG rims for sale. I don't remember which one's came on the E430 Sport, but these are the essentially the same AMG rims that came on several models, I think including the ones from the E55. They're (almost certainly) cheaper than they would be if from a dealer.
  • bigrobnhbigrobnh Posts: 114
    Hey folks,
    It's been a little quiet around here lately so I figured I'd post my latest service experience. As I've already mentioned, my service is rendered by Holloway Motorcars in Manchester NH. There are essentially no other options.

    Also, as I've already posted, the wood trim over my glovebox is cracked in 3 places. So in order to keep from having my car in the shop overnight waiting on parts, about a month ago I was in Manchester and I had the service manager look at it. He states he's "seen this before, must be a weak spot there over the glove box". He takes the order info and places it on file. It will be ordered when I schedule my next maintenance. Perfect. Last week I schedule my Service B. Day before I get my postcard saying the part is in. Everything is going fine.

    The waiting room is impeccable though now you have to pay for coffee (you can get tokens from the service desk) since there used to be a neverending stream of employees helping themselves to the coffee. That was pretty amusing...the last office I managed had the same coffee machine and it was over .50 cents a pop for the stuff.

    They take a pretty gutsy approach. When your car is ready, they come out and kneel next to you and chat about the service...sort of like ordering from Outback. I think it's supposed to inspire confidence in the others sitting in the room. One problem, if you have a clue they are exposing their had as the charlatains they truely are. Got to hear about how it's normal for continental tires to cup and that tires on trucks (aka SUVs) cup all the time. Didn't get to hear why they just put the tires on the back of the dudes car without mentioning a problem to him. Also never mentioned that improper balance is the most common cause of cupping, oh well.

    1.5 hours into my wait, out comes the service rep. She says that they sent her out to give me the bad news. The part they got is wrong. Ordered the right one, but in the box that had the correct part number was the wrong color trim piece. I'm recalling now that she said "it was black and yours is some other color". They have to re-order and install in another visit. Otherwise my car is fine and ready to go.

    <side note>
    I've been kicking myself for a day not for not asking to see the part so that I can see if I like it...if so install it till the correct one comes in. I know for a fact they were lying to me about the wrong part in the box. Black wood trim? Is that a Designo thing or what??? Now I'll never know.
    <end side note>

    My car was beautifully cleaned. Even cleaned in the door jambs and rocker panels. Vacuumed out the winter sand I'd missed. Even sprayed some new car smell. Go to leave and notice that the climate control is off. Odd, I think. I turn it on. I'm greeted by a low pitch whine. Guess it was easier to turn it off than fix it. I take the car back, demonstrate to the service advisor and they get a tech right on it. 20 minutes later it's as good as new. Too bad they didn't taken the 0 minutes it would have taken to do it right hte first time (this was a side effect of changing the charcoal filter apparently).

    I can hardly wait for the next trip up there. amost 1.5 hours round trip and it must be done more than once for each service visit (as they NEVER fix anything the first time). Thankfully I'm currently between jobs and if there's one thing I have now is time to go make them miserable and make a scene in front of the others in the waiting room.

    Apparently, service to a Mercedes owner is a clean waiting room and a clean car.

    Enjoy,
    BigRob.
  • jeffk9jeffk9 Posts: 22
    deronfergy-My 03 e320 had the audio gateway replaced along with many other trim items.
    lmtayl2-you can get an e500 for $ 300-500 over invoice from several southern cal. dealers. let me know if you need contacts in so. cal but you should be able to find comparable deals in your part of town
  • rbrenton88rbrenton88 Posts: 186
    By the way, that black wood is just the alternative 'bird's eye maple' instead of the more common brown burlwoods.
  • bigrobnhbigrobnh Posts: 114
    I was under the impression that maple, particularly birdseye, is lighter in color than walnut.

    http://www.figuredhardwoods.com/lumber/birdseye.html
This discussion has been closed.