Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Volkswagen Passat 2005 and earlier

1263264266268269

Comments

  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    Hi - your posts would be a lot easier to read if you would not post in all caps. :)
  • the idle speed is under the 1 right on the line. it just seems that when i am stopped at a light it rides rough
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    No worries, thanks. :)
  • a2mxa2mx Posts: 3
    Thanks for your reply. I was planning on test-driving the car over a weekend, but it got sold before I could get to it. :-(

    Mid- to large-sized wagons with manual transmission seem to be the most rare type of car species...

    I'm now vacillating between used VW Passat and BMW 525 wagon. Any words of wisdom would be much appreciated.
  • can anyone tell me if they have ever heard of this. Also, my car is still running sluggish...any ideas. It is not registering on the computer at the mechanic and my auto dealership is just barely turning in the paperwork today. Could this be thoes ignition coils, the tranny or something else like a fuel pump
  • jdhebert23jdhebert23 Posts: 19
    The car won't jump off the line because the turbo typically won't kick in until around 2,250-2,500 RPM (at least that's how mine works). You could probably mod it with a supercharger to get more GO off the line. You'll feel the benefits of the turbo at higher RPM's like when you get ready to pass someone or accelerate on the freeway.
  • frantimefrantime Posts: 1
    I have a 1998 used Passat that I bought from a reputable dealership for my daughter when she started driving in 2003. It was maintained by me consistently. One day last, February 2006 it stopped running at a stop light as she was on her way to school. It needed a new engine part that would cost anywhere from $8,000-10,000 so I opted out on doing this. I would like to sell the car for the body which is in EXCELLENT condition.
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    Any idea why the engine quit? Did it get sludged?

    FWIW, I suspect that you can take your car to a local European car specialist and have them rebuild your existing motor for somewhere between $2,000-$4,000. I just took a look at the individual parts that would be required for a rebuild and they really aren't all that expensive.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • this is the car

    http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.jsp?car_id=222087787

    carfax tells me there is 8 months / 9K miles warranty.. but the ad doesnt list it? why is this the case?

    also should i be suspicious of such a low price? what questions should i ask the dealer?

    thanks in advance
  • no one with any tips?
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    Try cross-posting here: Purchasing Used Vehicles. That's a discussion on our Smart Shopper board that isn't vehicle specific, but someone there may have some thoughts for you.

    Good luck - let us know what happens.
  • I see that this mail is over 2 years old, but is the first i have seen that states a copy of the VW warranty letter has been found. PLEEEAAAASE can you post a copy on the site or Email a copy to me.
    I just hope you can help me out as i too am a victim of sludging and want to do battle with VW.
    Thanks in advance.
  • Does anybody out there have a copy of the letter from VW stating the extended warranty cover following the issue of sump sludge that VW have acknowledged.

    If you do please can you post a copy, i am ready to go into battle with VW, i just need some ammunition.

    Thanks in advance.
  • altair4altair4 Posts: 1,469
    I probably have a copy in my files at home. I'll see if I can find it and PDF it to you. You'll need to "drop your shields" and give an email address (use a throw-away, if you'd like). Wait until tomorrow to see if I can find it for you...
  • altair4altair4 Posts: 1,469
    I found a pdf of the letter, the TSB, and the list of acceptable oils online at my local library's website. It won't link, but I have the PDF on my PC. Give me an address and I'll send it to you, or you can check your own public library for access.
  • That would be great if you can mail the files.
    Send to freespirit1@carspace.com. :)

    Thanks again for your response. I will post again when i have some more news, good or bad.
  • Hi! I am wondering if you like your 2002 Passat and if you have had any problems with it!
    Any information helps!
    Thanks
  • brozhnikbrozhnik Posts: 172
    At 80K it's time to replace the rear brake pads on my 03 Passat 1.8T (finally! - first time ever). At German Auto Parts.com, the price difference between OEM Jurids ($29) and various fancier options -Pagid ($38), Mintex ($37), etc - is small, so price isn't a factor. Is there any reason to get something other than OEMs? Mintex semi-metallics? Pagids? Etc.? Or just stick with OEMs?
    Thanks!
  • altair4altair4 Posts: 1,469
    That's a rather remarkable distance to have run on the OEM pads. I've seen many threads on changes under 30K. I had a lot of dust on my rear wheels from the OEM pads, so after much reading I went with PBR Deluxe Plus pads and Ate plain face rotors and have been happy with the choice. They have been essentially dust-free on the rears. I'd say that their bite is about the same as the OEM Jurids, but they seem to be more long-wearing. But wear certainly isn't an issue for you. If you were content with the Jurids, why not give'em another go?

    BTW, the Ate rotors I have rusted on the hat area. A bit unslightly. I think Ate has a new line of rotors out that are supposed to be coated/treated. Might be worth checking out.

    Word on the street is that Mintex isn't what they once were. I'd avoid them, just on the gossip factor.
  • brozhnikbrozhnik Posts: 172
    Thanks, altair - the main reason they lasted so long was not the pads, but that I drive mostly on the highway - so there's relatively little braking involved. (Also, in town I coast up to lights and that sort of thing -and actually also on the highway, try to avoid getting into heavy braking/ accelerating.)
    The rotors, btw, are fine at 80K - amazed the service guy.
    As for what I got, in the end I took it to a good independent mechanic, Whitedog Auto, and used the Jurids he had on hand. Charged me a total of $130 for parts and labor (compared to $219 asked by the dealer!) and did a great job. I don't think I could have done much better by buying online, right?
  • altair4altair4 Posts: 1,469
    Brozhnik,

    I think I spent about $85 in parts & supplies (brake cleaner and brake quiet) when I did a DIY on the rear brakes last time. I got the parts (PBR pads and Ate rotors) at getcoolparts.com - shipping is free over $50. I spent a couple of hours on the job - took my time because it was the first brake job I had done in twenty years and I just spent a while just looking at the design, layout, etc. I kinda like to admire the work of the engineers.
  • My wife's 2000 Passat is (was) VW certified. The car has about 75K. There is an Emissions Workshop note on the read-out along with a Check Engine light lit. We took it to a local garage who fixes many of our car problems (I hate to take it to a VW dealer). They said the preliminary computer report said it was perhaps the catalytic converter. After reading many of the posts here and elsewhere it seems that this Emissions Workshop and Check Engine message is very general and could mean many things. Is the computer read-out the best source for an evaluation of these notices?
  • altair4,

    I have a quick question on the rear brake project - I used to do all my own brake work but haven't worked on my '03 Passat which will need rear brakes soon. Are there any special tools required to retract the caliper or is that a pretty standrd process? Thanks for ant tips you may have -
  • altair4altair4 Posts: 1,469
    Good question on your part...this is going to save you some time. The rear brake piston needs to be turned and compressed simultaneously to retract the piston.

    I rented one from Autozone for free (you pay $35, but it's fully refunded upon return within 60 or 90 days).

    image

    I've read about others using a c clamp and needle nose pliers to do this, but this tool makes it ssssooooo easy, why go through the hassle? Advance Auto and I think even Pep Boys may do the same kind of tool rental.

    This was the first brake job I did in 20 years - it went very smoothly. Buy a small packet of brake grease at the counter of your favorite auto parts store. I'd also suggest coating the rear of the pads with brake quiet (I used the bottle, not the spray). If you google "Passat Information-base rear brakes" you might find some good instructions....
  • Altair,

    Thanks! Great information that should make the job alot easier - a good argument for the value of these forums

    Thanks again -
  • ivan_99ivan_99 Posts: 1,665
    Like many that posted before me I'd like the reassurance of strangers that my potential purchase is sound.

    I'm looking at purchasing a 2001.5 1.8T Passat (manual) with 50K miles for just over $7k. I'll probably drive it today and if it looks good get a thorough inspection. It has a clear carfax report (2 owners).

    I intend to use the vehicle as a commuter vehicle and will only put on approx 8k miles a year (suburban & highway miles). I need the vehicle to last at least 3 years.

    I've read a few hundred posts (little apprehensive now) and realize the maintenance must be followed. I'll ask if maintenance records are available (I think the sludge extended coverage is transferable) but I doubt they are.

    History:
    We're a one vehicle family and I need to purchase another because of the school year starting (kids). We've recently moved to a new city so we'll be looking at buying a house within the year. I'll be paying cash for the vehicle because I don't want to adversely affect my debt/income levels when mortgage time comes...and being a one income family these ratios can get easily affected with two car payments

    I've been tempted to just lease a new VW Jetta (and even a base 328i...very attractive lease rates) since the lease rates for 3 years come out close to the amount I'm thinking about spending...I've leased before and it's never worked out well for me...it's always a couple grand down...then loose a couple grand when trading in on something else (probably a bad decision to trade in...)

    Also...I think the total amount of the vehicle you're leasing counts in your debt/income ratio for your mortgage.

    Maybe I should just go get a 2003 corolla (yuk)

    Question:
    Have most of the early problems (the dark times) associated with the Passat been resolved? I'm assuming that at 50K miles all the recall items and issues have been addressed; obviously I'd confirm this before purchasing.

    Does the price and mileage seem reasonable?

    I did have a slight reprieve from my purchase anxiety...I talked to a co-work that owns a 2001 1.8T (manual) and they have had absolutely no problems. He didn't even know about the coil issues or sludge. They just take their vehicle in for regular service (he did say synthetic) and had any recall work done then. I supposed ignorance is bliss may come into play here :)

    Suggestions?
  • I am interested in changing my OEM antenna on my 01.5 Passat to a shark fin antenna. I wanted to know if anyone could tell me where I can find a multifunctional shark fin antenna that will catch AM/FM + Satellite. I heard the BMW 7-series uses a multifunctional antenna, and possibly the Touareg as well as some Audis. If anyone can help me with this, I'd appreciate it. I know it would probably be a lot of trouble to set it up, but I still want to know if it can be done, and how.

    One more thing--if there isn't a multifunctional shark fin available that I'm looking for, will the 06 Passat multifunctional antenna fit on mine?
  • I'm at a loss. I absolutely love this car, but sometimes love to hate it. Its the 30V 2.8L with 4motion and triptronic.
    I accelerate as normal but when I get to around 2500 to 3000 rpms, it's like I let my foot off the gas, but I push it down harder and I get no response from the engine. It starts just slowing down to an idle. Then out of nowhere (with my foot still on the gas) it takes off like a jackrabbit. I'm defenitely a DIY guy to a point and like to figure out the problem before I take it in to a shop. But I don't even know where to begin with this one. Anybody with any ideas? :confuse:
  • altair4altair4 Posts: 1,469
    I'm grasping at straws here, but the first thing I'd check for is vacuum leaks.
Sign In or Register to comment.