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Volkswagen Passat 2005 and earlier

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  • Just bought a used 2001.5 Passat 1.8t with 80k. The engine is way noisy when started on a cold morning. It seems to be very slow to warm-up. The noise is kind of metallic and is coming from the driver's side of the engine compartment with a pronounced loud whining during acceleration. Once the engine warms to 190 or so it quiets down.The heater blows cold for the longest time as well. Any advice? Thanks
  • I have a 2000 Passat 6cy. 2.8L. I am looking for a good repair manual because I believe I will have many small items which are expensive at dealer but I my be able to handle with used parts. Any suggestions on which manual would work best especially for small items such as door locks, cup holder (rear) etc.
    Thanks.
    Mark
  • alen3alen3 Posts: 12
    While im here i might as well ask two questions that ive been waiting for someone to answer. First: is it possible to install a cold air intake on a 2000 Passat 1.8t?
    Second: there is coolant leakage around the hoses that surround my oil filter and over time it crusts around the hoses and around my filter, its not alot but should i look at it seriously and what is causing it?
    thanks to anyone in advance,
    aa
  • altair4altair4 Posts: 1,469
    Bentley manual is probably your best bet. It's the official VW shop manual.
  • lisavalisava Posts: 2
    I currently have a Jetta Wagon and am considering a Passat for more space. I'm not set on having a Turbo engine, but found an '04 for sale that's a good price. I'm hoping to learn more about the Turbo engine and if there's anything I should be concerned about or look out for. The car has had regular oil changes at the dealership. The oil pump was just replaced, I don't know the details on why. Any suggestions, cautions, concerns? Thanks in advance! Lisa
  • I owned a 2001 Passat Wagon V6 (not the 4-motion). Ample power at 190 horse and the torq was great. Wagon was ~3600lbs IIRC. I havnt driven the Turbo models, but I dont think I would get a wagon with only a 4 cylinder Turbo.
  • altair4altair4 Posts: 1,469
    My concern about that oil pump replacement is because the engine oil sludged and clogged the pump's screen. Mmmmm, I'd be careful about this one. Sadly, regular oil changes at the dealership doesn't mean that the correct oil was used throughout the car's life. If they can't provide proof of synthetic oil in the correct grade meeting VW Spec 502.00, I'd pass on it.
  • 04glx04glx Posts: 1
    I'd go with the '03 and use part of the savings to buy snowtires mounted on steel wheels if you're concerned about traction and your son will be diving a lot in the snow.

    The 4-motion really does not make a big difference compared to FWD and in the Passat, it prevents you from having fold down rear seats.
  • yuliangyuliang Posts: 2
    For safety, is passat better than fusion and fusion better than accord?

    Also, how will passat take care of engine sluge issue if I bought a second hand passat from dealership and could not approve all oil change?
  • yuliangyuliang Posts: 2
    is that 1.8T engine the only one met sluge problem? Does anyone meet this problem with a 05 TDI engine? Thanks.
  • tomj2tomj2 Posts: 8
    Own a 2003, 1.8T, 60K miles. Gas mileage has declined about 25% in last year. Car runs perfect and even had VW look at it. Found nothing wrong. Use Premium gas. Any ideas?
  • I was told to always use premium gas. Check your manual. I owned a v6 GLS wagon. Your turbo will be effected even more. You should see significant drop in HP
  • tomj2tomj2 Posts: 8
    Thanks for reply, Jason. I've always used premium but it has still lost fuel economy.
  • krzysskrzyss Posts: 843
    Have you changed tires?
    What about air filter?
    Tire pressure?
    Wheel bearings?
    Stuck caliper?
    Stuck hand brake?

    I think I run out of ideas.

    Krzys

    PS One more: different oil?
  • tomj2tomj2 Posts: 8
    No to all of the above. VW checked it over. I figure that as a dealer, they were dying to find something wrong...:)
  • lisavalisava Posts: 2
    So if there is a Passat that did have some sludge issues at 45k miles and the dealer found oil output was low and replaced the oil pump, assuming from here on out all future oil changes will be done in a timely manner with appropriate synthetic oil, any reason to be concerned about the engine's future?
  • altair4altair4 Posts: 1,469
    O2 sensors going bad?
    Thermostat not fully closing?
    Vacuum leak somewhere?

    At some point, all these can occur and not show up on the OBD2.
  • tomj2tomj2 Posts: 8
    Those are reasonable questions. May be worth looking into although I would hope VW would have picked them up. Would a bad O2 sensor cause it to fail an emissions test? It passsed a few months back.
  • altair4altair4 Posts: 1,469
    What I understand is that the O2 sensors deteriorate. They slowly fail, versus an "on-off" issue. They could still be within the range of "acceptable" but not giving the most accurate signal. Hey, I'm just guessing!

    BTW, the web is full of stories where one would have hoped that "VW would have picked them up. Personally, I think they rely too heavily on the "there's MIL, so all must be perfect" approach to troubleshooting.
  • tomj2tomj2 Posts: 8
    I guess you have a point. Maybe I'll pursue that. Thanks
  • altair4altair4 Posts: 1,469
    It's all guesswork from here. Good luck with it and please, please, please post back when you find the answer to your issue.
  • tomj2tomj2 Posts: 8
    Will do. Thanks
  • OK.

    So, i'm no mechanic, and it seems it's hard to find info online (vehicle manuals/diagrams) that would help me become one.

    First:
    Does anyone out there know where i could get a bootleg FREE copy of the 1999 Volkswagen Passat 1.8 turbo REPAIR MANUAL?

    Second:
    While i was driving my Passat there was a blow-out of my exahust intake manifold (where the exhaust attaches to the engine). So, naturally, of course my car sounds very loud because of the disconnection. Does anyone know what the exhaust (the part under the hood, near the engine - not under the car near the Cat) is made out of - cast iron ??
    I have thought of welding it back, but am leaning towards a replacement of the part.

    Any feedback/knowledge sharing is appreciated!! Thanks for your time!
  • altair4altair4 Posts: 1,469
    Wait...what? The "exhaust intake manifold?" Which one - exhaust or intake? They're mutually exclusive. Need more info to help you.

    If you were to google "Passat Etka" you might find something that woudl help you.
  • I've got a 2003 Passat 4 motion wagon. v6.
    There isn't any handy dandy one page chart available. I must have spent two hours w. the manual and on-line also. I called the VW dept. that's responsible for manuals, and they don't have any such thing.

    Two Questions:
    1. Has anyone compiled a chart?
    2. Has anyone found maintenance info on severe conditions?

    Exasperated and stuck w. my Passat.
  • altair4altair4 Posts: 1,469
    VWoA's website has a feature where you can plug in your veicle info and it will generate the next maintenance required for your mileage. Once there, you can click on "View Complete Schedule" and it will show the entire schedule. It is not a severe serviceschedule, however.

    Start here:
    http://www.vw.com/myvw/yourcar/maintenance/findschedules/en/us/index.html
  • Thank you so much. I've printed the chart for the first 100k miles services and checked all my service records against it. I hope I can figure out what the severe service sched. is. All the manual says is call the dealer.

    Can't thank you enough! Gotta save this site... http://www.vw.com/myvw/yourcar/maintenance/findschedules/en/us/index.html

    P.
  • tomj2tomj2 Posts: 8
    On my 2003, 1.8T, Passat, dealer says timing belt replacement should be done at 60K. Manual says only to check at 40K and 80K. Anybody know how essential this is? Dealer wants $1000! No wonder they recommend it...:).
  • whitey9whitey9 Posts: 138
    ACTUALLY, VW, not the dealer, wants the cam ( timing ) belt inspected priodically.
    Remove the cover at the top/front of the engine and check the sides of the belt for cracks. ( My cover has a water hose clipped to it. ) I replaced my belt at 105,000mi. It was quite an ordeal and I do not recommend anyone w/o "heavy line" experience even attempting to do it. The valve timing must be right, and the cam belt must not be too tight, or too loose. The whole front of the car must be removed. ( Bumper, headlights, AC condensor and radiator. ) The AC system must be drained of refrigerant and later refilled. I replaced the camshaft belt tensioner, the water pump, and thermostat during the cam belt replacement. The repair manual cost of $100. NOT for an amateur.
  • altair4altair4 Posts: 1,469
    Not knocking your post, just curious. I was under the impression that you could do the timing belt and associated hardware with the front end in the service position (front end pulled forward on special supports). No? Or was it just easier to do with the front removed?
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