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Nissan Maxima

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Comments

  • 66falcon66falcon Posts: 17
    Yea, I've never had a car that locks the doors on its own until my '01 GLE, and yea I use Zaino, too(pretty great stuff, by the way). I have a habit of leaving the keys in the ignition overnight in the garage( a really rural area I live in), and more frequently than I'd like, I'll come out the next morning and find the doors locked. I've wondered if my wife while in the house and looking for something in her purse maybe trips her remote without even knowing it. And, yea, as somebody earlier mentioned, these remotes are powerful.

    In a different vein, I wonder if somebody could comment on what a mechanic told me today when I took my car in for an oil change and tire rotation. This guy told me to be sure and retorque my lug nuts after 25 miles of driving. This is only the 2nd time I've had a car with alloys, but I've had rotations done a number of times on my last two cars, and no one ever mentioned such a thing. Sorry if this is a pretty elementary question, but I'd just never heard about this before. I mean, don't they tighten those nuts with some sort of really powerful air wrench?
  • habitat1habitat1 Posts: 4,282
    My Honda S2000's doors are designed to relock automatically after about 30 seconds if the remote has been used to unlock the doors, but neither door is actually opened. I have experienced this when washing the car (i.e. use remote to unlock doors, but don't open one immediately). Perhaps the Maxima also does this, and it's just coincidental that you are waxing the car at the time??
  • 92drexel92drexel Posts: 153
    I think re-torquing is only needed when the rims are new. The idea is that the rims are 'breaking' in and may compress a little, so re-torquing may be needed to ensure a tight lug fit. Here's a link from tirerack.com (read the very last paragraph):


    http://www.tirerack.com/installer/package_install.html


    Also, those air wrenches are bad news because over-torquing can cause a few problems as well (warped rotors, etc). Investing in a good torque wrench (< $40) might be a good idea.

  • vanbo57vanbo57 Posts: 46
    I've got an '01 SE with the CC package - bought it new (2 miles). Car now has 14,500 miles and I have been getting the oil changed every 3,000 miles, +_ and have had the RE92s rotated once. I am considering going to the dealer for their prescribed service for the 1 year service but it seems like a real rip-off. Here is what their "Service Level 3" consists of;
    Oil / filter change
    27 point safety inspection
    Replace air filter
    Inspect brakes, exhaust system, steering gear componants, CV boots and suspension parts.
    Set engine timing.
    Adjust fan belts.
    Set cooling system.
    Rotate tires as required.
    Check shocks & struts.
    Service battery.
    Clean and adjust brakes.
    The price that they want for this is $275 plus tax. Some of that stuff seems un-neccessary unless there are some kind of symptoms. My car has been flawless. Not even a squeak or rattle for the most part. There is a "Service level 2" which is a 7500 mile / 6 month service which consists of;
    Oil / filter
    Lube chasis & hinges
    27 point safety inspection
    Top off all fluids
    Rotate tires as needed
    Inspect brakes, exhaust system, steering gear componants, CV boots and suspension parts.
    Set engine timing.
    Adjust fan belts.
    Clean & adjust brakes.
    This service = $160. The only thing that I see that I should get and is not included at the 7500 mile service is the air filter. Niether of these "service levels" includes the in cabin filter replacement which I think goes for around $100 more or less.
    I can get the basic stuff done at my local Midas, (oil/filter, rotate, lube, air filter and basic inspection probably for quite a bit less $$ but I wouldnt want them touching the engine. My gas mileage is not bad and car performs fine so the engine timing must be alright so it doesn't need to be checked. What do you think - should I spend the extra $$ for dealer service and be (logistically) inconvinienced or is the (tried and true) Midas place alright? Just looking for opinions. Thanks all.
  • hammer19hammer19 Posts: 31
    I fell into that trap with my local dealer when I first had my '97 SE. I tried to follow their "recommended service schedule" because I was worried about having a new more sophisticated car than I had ever owned before, but after about a year or two realized that I was just wasting money. Sure, the dealer has the so-called expertise (hopefully), but they also had the highest prices and the longest list of things that "needed" to be done each time. My opinion would be to follow the owner's manual as closely as you can, consider the type of driving you do the most of, and don't worry too much. Regular maintenance, such as oil changes, are a no-brainer, but the really hi-tech sort of stuff that they recommend should be approached with some common sense. These cars are really built well and most things will not become troublesome unless you notice a definite problem. My '97 was practically bullet-proof. Aside from an oxygen sensor after the second year and a bent rim thanks to a pot-hole in the fourth year, I only worried about oil-changes, tire-rotations, and topping up my fluids. My car had 145000 km (91000 miles) on it when I sold it to purchase my new '03 SE, and the car ran as good as new. The new owner has no idea how excellent a used car he got from me! Anyway, everyone has an opinion and that's mine.
  • bodydoublebodydouble Posts: 801
    My '95 SE was bullet-proof too in the 4+ years I had it. Zero warranty repair other than those pesky O2 sensors that needed replacement 4 times. Mechanically it was like new when I sold it and I felt 110% confident the new owner inherited an excellent car.
  • bodydoublebodydouble Posts: 801
    Nissans do not have auto-relock like Hondas do, so the situations encountered by hammer and falcon are unexplainable. In falcon's case, it's even more weird because I don't believe you can even lock the car when the key is in the ignition. It's the anti-lockout feature.

    BTW, falcon, I'm not sure if it is a good idea to leave the key in the ignition overnight even if you live in safe area and no one will steal your car. You could inadvertently drain your battery by leaving accessories on. Doesn't leaving the key in the ignition overrides the auto-off feature for the headlights?
  • habitat1habitat1 Posts: 4,282
    You didn't say how long you owned the car and how much milage you put on it per year. As I recall from my 1995 owners manual, there were two recommended service schedules: one for "hard" driving - low milage city driving and one for "regular" driving.

    I put roughly 16k-20k mostly highway miles a year on my 1995 and have gone to skipping the 7.5k mile service intervals. I still change the oil every 4k miles. If I were you, I might be tempted to go with whatever the "standard" 15k mile service entails, but then consider skipping the 7.5k mile intervals, especially if you are putting 15k+ miles per year of relatively easy driving on the car.
  • oilers1oilers1 Posts: 17
    Run away from that dealer fast, some of the things on that list make no sense.
    Adjust engine cooling?????
    Set timing, controlled by the ECM, no adjustments necessary
    Adjust fan belts, no such thing as the fans are electric.
    Clean and adjust brakes, go to the wand wash and hose them down to clean them. Parking brake is the only brake that can be adjusted. Does your parking brake hold on a grade? If so it doesn't need to be adjusted.
    Service the battery--they clean the terminals (if necessary) and add distilled water (if necessary).
    Does you car stop well, are all the lights working? You've just performed your own safety check. The only thing that is necessary is the oil change and maybe the rotation. The air filter (I assume engine) is due to be changed at 30k mi, but it doesn't hurt to pull it out and take a look at it. Max you need to spend is $50 IMHO. Dealers will do everything in their power to make you spend more $$$$$.
  • just looked at www.carmax.com (location in g'ville south carolina in particular) and they sell new nissans. they have a '03 SE with sunroof, floor mats and trunk mat for $24,698. the MSRP is $27,226 and the invoice price is $24,772. they what they call a NO HAGGLE PRICE so $24,698 is what they are selling for which is BELOW invoice!! great deal expecially being a '03.
  • vanbo57vanbo57 Posts: 46
    Thanks to all of you who replied to my message and to those who may follow this. The way my car is running, (perfect), I am leaning on staying away from dealer service and going to my local Midas - I've used them for my previous "car care" and was always satisfied. I wouldnt use them for anything other than routine maintanance, most likely, untill the warranty runs out - but then again, my first year with this car which will be 8/31 and around 15,000 miles by then has given me confidance that I got a "good one". My only concern is brakes - warping rotors I have read many times on this board, have been a problem for some. My brakes are so far, so good.
  • kyleknickskyleknicks Posts: 433
    Just to chime in with my experience on my 2k maxima concerning the car locking itself automatically. When I first got my maxima, there was an incident where i got stuck in a snowbank...and got out to examine how deep my car was in the snow while the car was still on. well, i closed my driver door not thinking otherwise, and guess what.. the car door locked!! the spare key was 2 hours away but who knew it would lock on it's own?! so $65 later and a locksmith, i was back in my car... i care a spare in my wallet all the time now.. and yes, i've noticed that it does lock on it's own....sometimes.. very rarely, but it does happen.

    Dealer service - i truly believe that maxima's have superior build quality and all it requires are oil changes, tire rotated every 7500 miles, transmission oil and coolant changed every 30k or so miles (could be more - have to check manual - but i feel better knowing the fluids are clean - i drive 15k miles a yr) i just dont believe that the prices the dealers ask you to pay for their services are worth it. do they even do these services when you bring in your car when it's under 60k miles.. such as the "set engine timing" or the "inspect joints"?? i doubt it.

    every 10k miles, go buy yourself a new ac/delco air filter for $8 and pop it in. beats paying the over inflated prices these dealers charge you. 2k maxima gle running as new. -kyle
  • maxamillion1maxamillion1 Posts: 1,467
    Yep, Carmax does offer great deals, I live about 45 miles away from the location in Greenville, South Carolina, and they are EXCELLENT! No doubt about it.
  • aggiedogaggiedog Posts: 238
    My 02 SE's owners manual states on page 3-7 that all doors lock automatically if you press the unlock button and don't open the doors. This should happen within 5 minutes. They should not lock automatically with the keys in the ignition. Maybe Nissan hasn't perfected this technology yet.
  • jolarjolar Posts: 17
    Man, you guys gave me all the perfect segways. Ok, I have an 02 SE 6, unlocked my car from inside the house, to go out 20 minutes later, and it is locked, thought I was dreaming, this explains sometimes when my car has been locked. So the manual seems accurate on that note.

    Also, you can lock the doors with the key in ignition, do it all the time, like when cruisin' the hood. Or did you mean when the car is off though? And if the key is placed straight into the ignition, or having been just turned off all the way, and not turned, it won't activate any accessories or trigger the auto lights. (my wife leaves keys in car all the time...over night etc.)

    Of course my Rover key can be left on w/ engine off, radio, lights, whatever, doors opened, and it will shut all power down after 20 minutes. It also allows you to use power for 20 minutes after removing the key, slick huh? But I digress - -

    Also, I was leaning in to buckle my kid in the car seat, keys jammed in pocket somewhere, and the front 2 windows powered themselves down! My daughter said "how did mommy do that?" After playing with the FOB (love that word, FOB) If you hold the unlock button down, after about 4 sec, it downs the front windows! Cool huh? But they fobbed up when they didn't include functionality to close them with the FOB?1?1? Seems more important, like if it's raining and you are inside or running for the car, er something.

    Airbags - I have these little Airbag Tags on the outside edge of the head rests, does this mean I have the side Airbags? (cause I didn't pay for 'em)

    My dealer is whack, they also forgot to collect $1200 of my down money, they finally billed me for $163 - I questioned nothing. (don't rat me out please! heh heh)
  • monte4monte4 Posts: 101
    I cant lock my doors when my keys are in my ignition of my 97SE or 02SE.
  • bodydoublebodydouble Posts: 801
    Is this a new feature for '02 because to my knowledge Maximas (or all Nissans for that matter) have never had passive lock/arm.

    But aggiedog, does the manual state specifically that it relocks within 5 minutes? 5 minutes seems like an awfully long time for the relock to kick in. Hondas, for example, will relock, rearm within 15 - 30 seconds.
  • bodydoublebodydouble Posts: 801
    Side airbags come standard on the SE, at least in Canada, so you did pay for them. However, the $1200 uncollected down payment..... Wow, I'd buy from that dealer!
  • bdlfebdlfe Posts: 21
    Does anyone think it is not too much trouble for nissan dealers to offer a service loaner for the recall service? Has anyone been able to get this from their dealers? Mine is giving me "free" shuttle...one way, I have to bother someone to drive me back to get my car! Thanks for your input.
  • My 2001 Maxima has the same auto-lock feature.
  • bodydoublebodydouble Posts: 801
    And it is stated right in the Manual? The lack of auto relock was one thing I didn't like about my '95 SE, so I remember asking the dealer about it when the new style came out in 2000. And he said nope, no auto relock. Maybe new for 2001 and later? And it takes 5 minutes to relock? Maybe they figure it would take people at least that long to gather up the kids and lock up the house!!
  • aggiedogaggiedog Posts: 238
    The manual does state that the doors will lock within 5 minutes. My 4Runner re-locks in about 30 seconds. I've never timed it but it does work.

    Jolar - Headrest tags - If your tags on the headrest say air bags, they may have put the wrong tags on your headrest. In cars with side air bags the air bag tags are on the side of the front seats (door side). There is a different tag on the headrest that reads Active Headrest (what ever that is).
  • nissangirlnissangirl Posts: 186
    I have a 2000 SE, I have recently been told from one person that I need to WAX my car, yet I was told that when I purchased my car from the dealer, that with the Clear Coat Finish I would not ever need to wax. Who do I listen to? Should I wax?
  • vocusvocus Posts: 7,777
    Just because a car has a clearcoat finish on it doesn't mean that you don't wax it! You should wax the car at least once per year, or when the water stops beading on the paint, to keep the paint looking nice.
  • nissangirlnissangirl Posts: 186
    Thank you. I don't know why my Nissan dealer would tell me that. Maybe I should write the Nissan Corp regarding this. I appreciate your advice, I will get some wax asap!
  • nissangirlnissangirl Posts: 186
    Well, I just spoke with a Nissan Body Shop technician that has been dealing with painting, and appearance for several years. He said that if you want to help with the pollutants in the air to keep such from sticking to your finish, then getting a Clear Coat Wax would help that, but as far as giving it more shine, no wax was necessary for Clear Coat finishes. And sure, it would make rain bead up again, but it will not help with the shine. I still may run to my local auto shop and pick up a bottle of this Clear Coat Wax just for my own peace of mind.

    Next opinion.......
  • mirthmirth Posts: 1,212
    I've heard you're not suppose to wax within the first six months because the paint/clearcoat is still 'curing' or something. But you definitely can't rely on just the clearcoat for the life of the car! Guy was probably selling you a line of bull to make the car seem better.
  • aftyafty Posts: 499
    On a new car, wax will not do much for shine, but it will protect the clearcoat. Your car will thank you for it 4-5 years down the road!
  • gg2k2segg2k2se Posts: 109
    My service dept has promised to get me an answer on why the windows don't do all the way down when opened with the fob. I think the main reason for this feature is to allow the hot air to escape before you get into the car on a summer day.

    My middle-aged mind may be wrong, but I believe the "active headrest" is mounted on a pivot inside the seat so if you are rear-ended, your back pushes into the seat and the headrest moves forward slightly to prevent whiplash. I believe Volvo has already had this for several years. Yes, the tag says "active headrest".

    As for waxing, I'm not a groupie, but I think zaino wax (zainobros.com) is the best I've used. It really shines and I think another layer of stuff on top of the clearcoat is a good idea.

    Anyone else used zaino?

    Happy fobbing, gg
  • pbhattipbhatti Posts: 87
    This was posted on altimas.net by pl8948. This might be reason why some cars autolock in 5 minutes, 1 minute or not at all.

    13 tweaks you probably didn't know about

    After reading a couple of threads about adjusting the sensitivity of the automatic on/off feature for my Xenons, I decided to pay a visit to my dealer. Well, it turns out that once the car is hooked up to the dealer&#146;s diagnostic computer, they can change several other settings at the same time.

    My dealer (Trophy Nissan, Mesquite TX &#150; also the operator of www.nissanwholesaleparts.com) told me that these settings are not listed in the owner&#146;s manual, or even in the books the repair guys use. He says the only reason they know about the settings is from a training course they had to take before the 2002 Altima came out. They even made their own worksheet so Trophy&#146;s customers can fill it out before their car is hooked up to the computer. Here are the settings you can change and the appropriate modes:

    Door Lock/Unlock (with single click on keyfob)
    Mode 1: Unlock left front door only
    Mode 2: Unlock all doors

    Anti-lock Out (prevents locking keys in car)
    Mode 1: Master door lock switch can activate door locks w/ key in ignition
    Mode 2: Master door lock switch cannot activate door locks w/ key in ignition

    Dome Lamp Timer
    Mode 1: Interior lamp comes on when left front door is unlocked
    Mode 2: Interior lamp does not come on when left front door is unlocked

    Retained Power (Amount of time windows and sunroof will operate after turning off ignition)
    Mode 1: 45 seconds
    Mode 2: No delay (Will not operate after ignition key is turned off)
    Mode 3: 2 minutes

    Auto Light On (headlights turn on as it gets dark)
    Mode 1: Factory setting
    Mode 2: Lights come on sooner than factory setting
    Mode 3: Lights come on later than factor setting
    Mode 4: Lights come on later than Mode 3

    Head Lamp Battery Saver (applies when headlights left in &#147;on&#148; position, not in &#147;auto.&#148;
    Mode 1: Shuts lamps off after 5 minutes
    Mode 2: No time delay (headlights turn off immediately)

    Headlamp Illumination delay (time headlights remain on after exiting car when headlight is in the &#147;auto&#148; position)
    Mode 1: 45 seconds
    Mode 2: No Delay (lights turn off immediately)
    Mode 3: 30 Seconds
    Mode 4: 1 minute
    Mode 5: 1 ½ minutes
    Mode 6: 2 minutes
    Mode 7: 2 ½ minutes
    Mode 8: 3 minutes

    Hazard and Horn Reminder Mode (key fob allows you to choose between modes 1 & 2, but there are 4 others)
    Mode 1 (C Mode): Lock = 2 flash, 1 horn /// Unlock = 1 flash, 0 horn
    Mode 2 (S Mode): Lock = 2 flash, 0 horn /// Unlock = 0 flash, 0 horn
    Mode 3: Lock = 0 flash, 0 horn /// Unlock = 0 flash, 0 horn
    Mode 4: Lock = 2 flash, 0 horn /// Unlock = 1 flash, 0 horn
    Mode 5: Lock = 2 flash, 1 horn /// Unlock = 0 flash, 0 horn
    Mode 6: Lock = 0 flash, 1 horn /// Unlock = 1 flash, 0 horn

    Remote Auto Locking Function Mode (Doors automatically lock after exiting car)
    Mode 1: 5 minute delay
    Mode 2: Function disabled
    Mode 3: 1 minute delay

    Remote Panic Alarm Operation Mode (activates when button on keyfob held for approx. __)
    Mode 1: .5 seconds
    Mode 2: Function disabled
    Mode 3: 1.5 seconds

    Remote Trunk Open Operation Mode (activates when button on keyfob held for approx. __)
    Mode 1: .5 seconds
    Mode 2: Function disabled
    Mode 3: 1.5 seconds

    Remote Power Window Down Operation Mode (activates when button on keyfob held for approx. __)
    Mode 1: 3 seconds
    Mode 2: Function disabled
    Mode 3: 5 seconds
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