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Nissan Maxima

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  • I just wanted to support/add to berbel's comments regarding the '00 model with the 5-speed manual transmission. I've lurked around this board on and off since '99 as well but never posted before. Berbel's comments were right on - at the time there were some very vocal owners that were having issues with what they refered to as as the fuel-cut problem. There also was a poster that claimed to be a Nissan mechanic (I believe his name was Joe... very helpful fellow, got flamed a lot by those posters with problems though.) I don't remember exactly, but he stated it was actually attributable to the break-in process and went away with time.

    Despite some misgivings I purchased a '00 SE with the 5-speed in August, '00. When new, the "jerkiness"/stumble was noticeable, particularly so in first gear if you accelarated then took your foot completely off the gas... it almost felt like your brakes kicked in. However, in my case the jerkiness gradually went away until at about 5k miles it was basically gone. I have had no issues with it since and notice a discernable performance difference between my car and my friend's '00 with auto transmission. Just wanted to relate that to the poster who was considering a '00 with a stick.
  • mtofanmtofan Posts: 12
    I will purchase a 2000 SE stick within the next month or so. I test drove a few cars with anywhere from 20 000 to 65 000 miles. None of them had a "jerkiness" problem.
    By the way, are there any other possible problems with 2000 Maximas that I should look at before purchasing it? The best deal I saw advertised was a 2000 SE, manual, leather and all the goodies for $12 500 US. What do you guys and gals think of that price? I'm sure I can bring it down to about $11 500 to $12 000 without too much of a problem. Is that a good deal or is it an average deal? Help me out please.
  • As I mentioned, in my particular case the jerkiness went away around 5k miles. I'm inclined to feel that it was simply a break-in thing. I now have over 30k miles and my car has been flawless.

    In doing a quick search of used Maxima's in my area (Seattle) $12,500 for a car you're describing is an extremely low price... they're in the mid to upper teens here. You didn't list the mileage, but I'm assuming average miles.
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  • mtofanmtofan Posts: 12
    carguy71,

    I'm actually in Toronto, Canada and the price is converted from CDN $ to US $. It has 65 000 miles. I also saw many 2000 maximas SE with around 50 000 miles for $15 000 to $17 000. The one I mentioned for $12 500 seemed to be the best deal.
  • al57al57 Posts: 67
    Am still looking for response to previous posts on certain problems with the 2000. Only have 14000 miles but have heard of bad rotors,ignition coils and wind noise.Will dealer repair these items without already having the problem? The mileage is quite low so these problems have not appeared yet.3 year warranty expires in july. My friend has same car and coils were changed with 30k..Responses are appreciated.Do not want to pay for work when warranty expires for these problems if possible
  • Sorry, this is a bit long, but here is an interesting problem: I bought my GLE on Feb 10, 2000. The car was delivered to my office and I signed for it on the 18th.

    Over the course of the following 3 years, I have noticed shaking of the steering wheel while braking at higher (over 55) freeway speeds. It didn't bother me except I realized last week that the warranty is about to expire. Thus, something needed to be done!!

    I called the Nissan dealerships on Saturday the 15th. Told them I suspected warped rotors. The shop man said the warranty expired on the 10th which I disputed and he advised me to call 1-800-Nissan-1. Had to wait until Monday the 17th and reached an advisor who said he'll be back to me within 24 hours. He wasn't, so Tuesday the 18th (exactly 3 years since I got the car) I called the man again. He lost my file but remembered me. He arranged with the Nissan shop to see me today, the 19th. They wanted to charge me $20 just for inspection. I refused to pay and they dropped the charge.

    The inspection confirmed what I suspected: Warped rotors. While this was going on, I discovered that it is a standard policy, at least at this Nissan dealer maintenance shop, to use power tools to torque the lug nuts. So, beware: You have to request the repair shop to hand torque the lugs or else you risk more warped rotors!

    The repair shop said they agreed with the Nissan customer service that they will pay 50% and I will pay 50% ($75) for machining the rotors and replacing the pads. The pads are still at 7 mm, which is almost like new (9 mm) pads.

    I refused any such deals and left. Called the Nissan CS rep again and he said that he originally agreed with the shop that Nissan will pay 1/2 and the shop 1/2. I am waiting for the resolution of this - I told the CS that I am already making a concession agreeing to machine the rotors instead of replacing them outright.

    Wasn't there a TSB on warped rotors? Any other advice on this? Like how to correct the original delivery record on Nissan database? Thanks and sorry again for the long post ... Norbert
  • Send me an e-mail and I'll send you a copy of the TSB. It's number is NTB00-88a:

    Brief description is as follows (there's more):

    Date:
    May 24, 2002

    2000-01 MAXIMA; BRAKE JUDDER

    ATTENTION : THIS BULLETIN HAS BEEN REVISED.

    This amended version of NTB00-088 contains revised Applied Vehicle information, Service Information, Service Procedure information, Parts Information, and Claims Information. Please use this bulletin (NTB00-088a) and discard any paper copies of NTB00-088.

    APPLIED VEHICLE:
    2000-01 Maxima (A33)

    SERVICE INFORMATION

    Brake judder may be described as steering wheel/body vibration or brake pedal pulsation when braking (especially during high speed braking). Brake judder may be created by excessive "thickness variation" of the brake rotors. Thickness variation is usually the result of excessive rotor run-out. While brake judder is usually associated with the front brake rotors, it may occur in the rear brake rotors as well.

    NOTE :Brake judder repair, as outlined in this bulletin, is covered by the 3 year, 36,000 mile warranty for these vehicles.

    NOTE :The ONLY way to eliminate brake judder caused by the front brakes is to turn the front disc brake rotors using an on-car brake lathe (such as the ProCut(TM) PFM900* or equivalent). The on-car brake lathe is more effective in reducing brake rotor run out than the conventional off-car lathe method. This is true even if the rotors are indexed after they are turned using the off-car method. The on-car brake lathe is a required essential tool, and must be used when turning front brake rotors as part of a warranty repair

    dklanecky1@cs.com
  • berbelberbel Posts: 167
    Hey carguy71:

    The Nissan tech who used to post on THIS BOARD was
    joenissan. You're right.....he did get flamed a
    lot but the majority of us who have been here a
    while got a LOT of good advice and input from him.
    Personally I miss his posting here!

    norbert:
    IF you brought the problems to the attention of
    your dealer BEFORE your warranty ran out, even if
    it was 24 hrs. BEFORE it ran out, IMHO, they have
    an obligation to deal with it at NO COST to you and
    I would insist that they do so.

    That problem with rotors was quite prevalent with
    quite a number of Max buyers as the factory had
    overtightened the lugs resulting in the damage.
    Another thing they were doing at the time was in-
    flating the tires to 40 pounds (and more in some cases) prior to shipping the cars from Osaka.

    Personally, when I have ANY type of tire work done
    I make it a point to tell the shop tech that I want
    the lugs tightened to 85 pounds....no more...no less. All my brake components are and have been in
    perfect condition and I think telling them exactly
    how many pounds to tighten to has helped avoid
    problems. Just my 2 cents.

    berbel
  • Thanks folks!!
    I did bring it to the shop's attention 3 days before the 3 years from the true car delivery date (when I received it and signed for it) were up. However, the official Nissan record shows the wrong date (when I first contracted for the car) and I wonder how to correct that.

    Thanks also for the 85 ft-lb requirement. It was funny this morning, when the shop mechanic asked for that number from the manager as he was told that I want the lugs hand-torqued. :-)

    Now, how does one gain control over what happens in the shop when one is told it is Nissan policy not to let customers into the shop area?
  • Yes, that was the name I was looking for. I agree, I felt he was a fount of useful information... hence why I mentioned his feeling that the 5-speed issue would go away after break-in, which it did in my case. I always thought his posts were insightful and friendly, despite some of the attacks he received. Hey Joe - if you still read this board, come on back!
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    FWIW, I wish he would come back also. I wrote him shortly after he disappeared explaining that he was highly in demand, but I did not hear back from him.

    Joe, if you are there, we really would like to hear from you! :-)
  • You should visit maxima.org website.

    search the 5 Gen Maxima board and you will learn more than you care to about the Maxima.

    I have a 2000 GLE: here is a list of problems i have had - all fixed under warranty

    climate control blower motor (replaced twice)
    warper rotors
    A/T slipping - solenoid and transmission control module replaced
    Wind noise on rear windows
    bumper scratch just below trunk latch

    Others I have read about, but not experienced myself include ignition coils - however this is a problem with almost every car (not just Nissan) - VW and Audi are recalling their cars. I think Bosch made some real bad coils that got put into late 90's early 2000 cars.

    Mass Air Flow Sensor failure - not as big a problem with 2000 as the 2002 Max - a lot of people modify their intakes so it is hard to gauge actual problem.

    Some people experienced ratlling in the rear deck around the Bose speaker - not a problem on all cars.

    A lot of Nissan owners complain about the paint chipping easily - this again is a personal thing and in general I think paint on all manufacturers has gotten less durable in recent years.

    If you go to NHSTA.com they list all the Technical Service Bulletins for the 2000 Maxima - there are some repeats and all do not apply to the SE or even all models, sometimes just within a VIN range.

    For the most part it is a pretty good car - a pretty good blend or performance and luxury (at least in my case with the leather and Bose).

    If you are into modding cars there are plenty of things you can do the improve performance, but as is the Maxima is a pretty good performance car.

    Also - for what it is worth - the VQ engine in the Maxima gets very high praise for it performance and reliabilty from owners and press alike. In fact - although the engine in the Altima and Maxima are now 3.5L - it is essentially the same VQ in the 2000 - Nissan is not putting that is almost every car they make including their trucks.
  • okay guys.. i had posted a link to the warped rotors for the 2k maxima.... just go to that site and u'll be able to print out the tsb itself..

    http://apollo799.50megs.com/Maxima/Maxima.htm

    here it is again
  • aggiedogaggiedog Posts: 238
    I've put 18 in my tank (02 SE). My wife had it riding on fumes.
  • Further to my posts 6387 and 6390, and all the wonderful help posts from you folks:

    Later in the day, I contacted the Nissan CS Rep and he finally arranged for my car to be repaired "as if under warranty", "one time complimentary repair." He said that the warranty has run out 3 years from the day I agreed to buy it, not from the day I took delivery. Nissan database lists the former as a date of delivery, though - go figure...

    Thus, armed with the warped rotor TSB (thanks, dklanecky and kyleknicks), I went and had the car repaired. They also put in new brake pads. I spent a lot of time on this but paid $0. I wanted to watch the repairs but was denied entry into the work bay.

    Interestingly, I originally wanted the rotors to be replaced with new ones but the TSB convinced me that it is best to just machine the existing ones ON THE CAR.
  • gerapaugerapau Posts: 211
    Norbert, I for one think that you got lucky getting Nissan to pick up the bill. The TSB that was issued dealing with warped rotors was issued because the cars were shipped from the manufacturer with the lugs over torqued. If it happened that your car was shipped with the lugs over torqued you should have noticed it and brought it to the attention of Nissan long before your car was three years old (I for one had my rotor replaced under the TSB after only 2 months and about 5,000 miles). If the wheels were over torqued they would have warped on you long before this. In three years there are just too many other reasons that your rotors could become warped. Nissan, in my opinion, has treated you very nicely.

    Al57, I for one have had many problems with my 2000 SE 5 speed. As mentioned above, I had the warped rotor problem as well as the following:
    - Coils replaced
    - Back window problems (wind noise)
    - Power Drivers seat switch
    - Heated drivers switch
    - Altinator (which left me stranded during vacation last summer)
    - Transmission problems (rebuilt twice and is starting to make a funny noise again)
    - Many fit and finish problems including having to get the back bumper painted due to misaligned trunk lid

    It should be noted that all these problems were fixed under the warranty but it was still a major pain in the a**.
  • nabinabi Posts: 15
    Hi, we had a severe snow storm in DC area. My car was in snow pile for a couple of days. I just found that I got dent on passenger door panel. I'm not sure if it's from cleaning crew or other cars. Since it's a brand new Max. I really like to fix it well. Should I go to dealwership to get recommendation? How should I report it to my insurance to get it fixed without penalty? I have $100 deductible. Thank you.
  • mtofanmtofan Posts: 12
    My mother has a 99 maxima with only 28k on it. When going over bumps, there is a rattling noise coming from the dash (driver side). When I put my hand on the dash board, the noise goes away. I'm thinking it could just be a loose screw. Any suggestions?
  • mtofanmtofan Posts: 12
    nabi,
    I would go to the dealership first to get a quote. Don't report it to your insurance company unless they want something like $1000 to fix it. Your rate will probably go up. In the long run, it will cost you more. Is it a big dent?
  • habitat1habitat1 Posts: 4,282
    I live in D.C. and have Geico insurance. In December, my Maxima was dented in a downtown valet parking garage and I unfortunately didn't notice it until after returning home. The parking garage management wouldn't cover the $850 repair, so Geico stepped up and allowed me to file it as an uninsured motorist claim. They had me contact DC police and file a report over the phone and give them the report number. I have $500 collision deductable, but only $200 on uninsured motorist, so their suggestion saved me $300. And they repeatedly confirmed that this would not go on my driving record or otherwise affect my premiums.

    As for the repairs, I would fist take it to Dent Wizard (there is one in Rockville) and see if they can fix it using their "paintless" dent removal. If not, I recommend Quatro Auto Body in Silver Spring. They did a great job on my 1995 Ruby Pearl Maxima.

    Good luck.
  • berbelberbel Posts: 167
    I believe you would have a valid arguement with
    Nissan if you took the position that you did not
    purchase the car until the date you took delivery.

    The day you take delivery is the date that your
    check for the Max was handed to your sales rep.
    The act of "paying" for the car is the "purchase."
    The "purchase" IS NOT "ordering." Your warranty
    is effective with the "purchase" NOT the "ordering."

    Obviously, since Nissan has so "generously" agreed
    to do the fix under warranty, the above points are
    moot.

    You don't have to be in the "service area" of your
    dealership to convey your wishes to the tech who
    will be working on your car. Your car warranty is,
    in essence, a binding contract between you and
    the manufacturer. The dealer is the manufacturer's
    "agent." As such, he is required to meet needs
    which you perceive to be important to you. You
    can tell the service manager to convey your wishes
    to the tech or you can tell the service manager that
    you would like to speak directly to the tech who
    will be performing the work on your car. The tech
    can be summoned from the work area to the service
    desk in order to speak with you directly. Neither
    of these requests is unreasonable and you have
    the right, as the owner of the car, to make them.
    Hope this helps!

    berbel
  • I agree with berbel. I ordered my Murano on 2/15/2003. I will take delivery sometime in early May. My warranty will start when I take delivery of the car in May, not when I signed the contract and gave them the deposit in February.

    Regarding access to the service area. I have always taken the few extra minutes necessary to type out my specific directions each time I have taken the car in for any service. I hand this to the service writer who inevitably gives it to the technician.

    Now I've always got a record of what I wrote down and instructed them to fix or look at for ever the issue was, even normal maintenance items. This has proven issues I identified that the dealership said they couldn't replicate while they had the car.
  • vocusvocus Posts: 7,777
    Agree about the warranty.

    I always write out the stuff on paper before taking in the car, mostly so I don't forget while I'm there. :) One time, this dealer messed up the same thing like 3 times on my car, and I was hot. I went on the 'net and translated everything I wrote into Spanish, and left bi-lingual directions. He was mad too, but it worked. The problem was fixed on the car when I got it back.
  • aggiedogaggiedog Posts: 238
    I don't know where you live in this area but here are a couple of places to get estimates from that I've had experience with. Maaco in College Park did excellent work on my old Mazda 626. Someone tried to break into it at the door handle and when they were finished it looked like new. Also Capital Toyota's Body Shop in Landover Hills (just off the BW Parkway near the District line). They worked on my 4Runner and did a great job. The body shop manager told me that they work on anything that's been damaged, not just Toyota's.
  • nabinabi Posts: 15
    Thank you for inputs, guys. Do I have to report it to my insurance right away?
  • I saw in a previous post someone picked up a new Maxima for $21k. Anyone else out there in Southern Calif. get a deal like that recently? Where? Thanks
  • So is the '03 Max out of production, or are orders being taken? Best prices I've seen here in northern NJ for an '03 SE automatic are a tad under $20K, today's ads mark a new low in the prices being advertised. Most tempting, esp. if the 2.9% for 60 months is still available.
  • wow, under $20k for an '03 Maxima SE? That's really good. Anyone out there actually pay this??
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