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Nissan Maxima

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Comments

  • stermenstermen Posts: 10
    I have been having problems with my radio controls on my steering wheel and wonder if anyone out there has had problems with their' s. The buttons don't respond every time I press them. It was intermittent and now is a problem all the time. It works then it doesn't. I just went out of warranty so I am not excited about what the dealer may have to say.
  • habitat1habitat1 Posts: 4,282
    If you "just" went out of warranty, I'd go to the dealer and explain that the problem began intermittently before the warranty expired. I have had good luck getting Nissan and Acura to allow some repairs if the vehicle is "just" out of warranty by a couple of months or a couple thousand miles.
  • dklaneckydklanecky Posts: 559
    Habitat1 is correct-get to your dealer asap and tell them it was failing intermittently before you were out of warranty and now is becoming more persistent.

    They will probably take care of you under the "recently expired" warranty.

    My dealer has always been real good about this on all my Nissans.
  • ericuericu Posts: 16
    When should I get my first oil change for my 04 Maxima... 1000mi or 3750mi or just 3 months? I've heard various things. Some say 1000 b/c you're just breaking in the new engine, but others say not necessary anymore since regular oil is now used as opposed to that thin break-in oil from the past.
  • pordypordy Posts: 2
    I'm looking to buy a '02 SE and wondering if the price is in the right ballpark. 6-sp with everthing but limited slip and nav (Bose, heated seats, leather, roof, side airbags) 31000 miles, certified used, dark gray. My mechanic discovered today that it has been repaired for a cosmetic fender bender (patched right front fender, new nose) that didn't show up on carfax. $18K @ 5.3% APR. Fair deal?

    I love the car but don't want to be taken either.
    Patrick
  • dklaneckydklanecky Posts: 559
    I agree with ccermak on the 1000 mile first oil change.

    I also agree to a point about beating on the car a bit as you break it in.

    I'd take (and have taken on all 3 of my Nissans) a progressive break in approach so that you pretty well follow the manufactures break in schedule for the first 500 miles. Then you start pushing a little harder and a little harder and a little harder until when you reach 1000 miles, you've had it up to the redline a few times under full throttle (at least in the first couple of gears).

    Then get that first oil change and go on a normal oil change schedule after that.
  • ccermakccermak Posts: 260
    I concur. Although I have read an article or two that says right away to get the revs up there. That was for racing motorcycles whether new or rebuilt though, not for regular cars.
  • I have a '01 GLE loaded - I can't think of any option that was available at the time that is not on the car. I'm 6'4" and fit very nicely in car...have had absolutely no problems - just change the oil every 3k and fill 'er up. Have a 7 year fact. warranty and a 3.9% finance rate. But now, my kids are old enough to have their own cars, and I don't need a 4 door car....and I'm thinking I'd like to get back to a stick. I'm looking at a '99 BMW 328i 5spd w/66k. I would probably get about 4.5k equity for the Max (pristine condition, 16,000 miles, and I owe $14k on it)..maybe a few hundred more. Anybody out there that has owned both vehicles and has an opinion for me? I'm mainly concerned with the reports of expensive repairs w/bimmers, esp electrical stuff. This car appears to be very well maintained, though. But geez, goin' from 16,000 to 66,000 is a BIG jump, just for some fun of slapping a stick and driving a RWD again! Plus, I understand the BMWs aren't too good in the snow, and we get our share here. (not that the Max is a great handler in the winter, but it is FWD) I value any opinions, but it sounds like I'm talking myself out of it already! Thanks! Chuck
  • ccermakccermak Posts: 260
    My .02, keep the Max til it's paid off, then once it's paid off you can keep it for your winter car (throw some Blizzaks on it) or if you need 4 door for people hauling. Then get a BMW or Z or something sporty. Oh wait, that's what I'm trying to do ;-) Have 2000SE Auto with 9 payments left, then buying motorcyle.
  • i agree with you... pay off the max first..then go from there...

    ccermak, what kind of bike are you getting? i was actually thinking about getting a bike myself...it would be awesome to ride around this spring with one.. (i dont know how to ride one yet, but if i did, i would already bought one)
  • aggie1995aggie1995 Posts: 318
    You probably have no shot at getting $18,500 for your Max from a dealer on a trade. Even with the low miles I have seen 2002/2003 Max SE Loaded selling for $16-ish in Houston with 20-30k miles.

    You might get $16 if you sell it on your own.

    But the advice you've been given is sound pay off the Max then buy anything else you want.
  • ccermakccermak Posts: 260
    kyle, I currently have a couple cycles and am looking at getting another. I ride both dirt and street. I have a 2001 Kawasaki KDX 220R dirt bike, it's a 2 stroke enduro that's not street legal but has a headlight. It's about as fast as a 250cc motocross bike because I have it piped. For the street I have a 2000 Honda Shadow Sabre 1100cc V-twin cruiser. It's a nice bike, I have like $2k in accessories on it, but I'm looking to get something more sporty. I plan on buying a newer used (maybe brand new) Suzuki Bandit 1200S. It's the Maxima of motorcycles, an awesome all arounder that's been around forever with excellent value for the $. It's got good performance but it's not a true race bike, more of a sport tourer. Can get a 2003 holdover for $6199 here in MN.
  • I was wondering if anybody with a 2000 maxima or similar has had this problem. I have a GlE and when on turn on the ATC i will sometimes get what sounds like a belt squel, but it only happens occassionaly and when i get above a certain rpm it stops. It probably happens 7 out of every 20 times i'm in the vehicle. Just seeing if anybody had some suggestions
  • i have a 2000 maxima and i dont notice what you're noticing with your A/C.
  • wow! i just googled the Suzuki Bandit 1200S and that looks like what i want! i dont want a Ninja which is too sporty..and i dont want a cruiser or a harley.. but the Bandit looks like it's right up my alley... how long does these bikes last? how many miles do they go for?

    GO MAXIMA'S!!!!
  • ccermakccermak Posts: 260
    They are one of the most reliable, aftermarket parts available, time tested cycles you can buy. Some of the technology on them is slightly older than say the newer designed machines, but that's whey the price tag is so low. Plus it's got PLENTY of get up and go for the normal rider. And with a few aftermarket parts like exhaust the hp can be increased significantly. I'm a researchaholic and this is the bike for a novice to intermediate rider looking for a bike to romp on after work, or take on the 3 hr trip. This post is off topic, but as far as cycles go, the Bandit is very similar to the Maxima in it's philosophy. Now go out and take that sanctioned motorcycle safety course and happy ridin'.
  • ccermakccermak Posts: 260
    forgot to say that they're solid for thousands of miles, 30-60k no problem, which is forever for a guy like me up in MN. I'm sure they go longer than that as well. They're Japanese remember!!!
  • roar1roar1 Posts: 193
    I was sitting in a 2004 Maxima SL in a dealers
    showroom and I could not find any 12VDC receptacles either on the dash or on the console
    anywhere. Is my eye sight getting that bad ?? Any
    '04 max owners care to respond !!

    I did notice one big improvement over the previous
    Maxima's . The trunk lid now has very small
    " scissor-type " hinges with hydraulic assist
    instead of those old " humongus" hinges that
    crush packages. Good move.
  • There is one on the passenger side of the console in the footwell.

    Maybe another in the center conslole like Accord?
  • bowke28bowke28 Posts: 2,185
    why dont you drive it to the other side of the building where the service entrance is?!?!

    ;-)
  • fuhrfuhr Posts: 2
    anyone finding the mode button on the steering wheel doesn't let u move thru the a/b/c bands and further when u move from let's say band a (fm) and then hit mode u r put into band c (am) and then when u use station button to change station, u r out back into the fm band. the system skips over band b (fm) and further when in band c the am band, the station selector on the steering wheel puts me back into the fm band.
  • ctl1ctl1 Posts: 18
    There is another outlet under the storage tray in the center armrest. You have to pull the tray out to access it but there is an opening in the tray to pull a power cord through. This one is useful for cell phones.
  • roar1roar1 Posts: 193
    Thanks to " lichtronimo" an " ctl1 ". I knew the
    car had to have them somewhere. They are well
    hidden although I don't know why.
  • bowke28bowke28 Posts: 2,185
    your salesperson didnt do a very good job explaining it...i will try.

    first, the a/b/c memory bands are not specifically for either am or fm. you can mix and match. ie: band a, preset 1 could be an fm station, and band a, preset 2 could be an am station. this goes for all 3 memory bands. when you switch memory bands, it goes automatically to the station you last had on in that band...ie: you listened to 101 FM, which is preset 4, last time you were in memory band 2. next time you switch to memory band 2, it will go to preset 4 first. if you switch to preset 2, being 760 AM, then it will take you to that station next time you toggle through the memory bands.

    i hope this explained it. if not, then read your owner's manual...you paid ~$30k for it for crying out loud! ;-)
  • andmoonandmoon Posts: 320
    Hi, new to this forum.
    I have an 02 se 6spd that is due for new tires. I have come to realize that the 225/50/17 is rather limited in choice and high in price. I have found Nitto 450's for about 100 a piece and others starting around 165. Does anyone have any experience with the Nittos or has anyone mounted 235/50/17's?

    Thanks,
    Don
  • I've pretty much reached the same opinion that you all have given...pay it off( will still have 2 years of mfg warranty left at that point), then go from there - at the rate I'm putting miles on, it will still be a low mileage car. It's still a great car to drive, absolutely no problems, I love the looks, and fit into it like glove. Must have been a brief wave of middle-age panic sweeping over me. Sometimes I just need slapped back to reality....
  • Can anyone provide a link where I can find out the original standard equipment and the available options for the different models (GXE, SE, GLE) for 2001 maximas. I'm buying used and trying to compare and see what was available for each trim level.

    Thanks,

    Jon
  • suydamsuydam Posts: 932
    Try cars.com
    Under "research" you can type in the model and year, and you can see by the trim levels what equipment came standard and what was available as options.
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    Why not try right here under the Used Cars blue tab at the top of this page? Click on the TMV logo that appears at the top and then follow the links for all you could ever want to know about 2001 Maximas. :)
  • suydamsuydam Posts: 932
    I did, but there isn't a list of standard and optional equipment itemized by trim level. For example, if you type in 2001 GLE, you get a list of checks by various equipment, but mine for example had 2 other items that must have been options: side air bags and a moon roof. The cars.com site has an easier to read list of all the trim levels and options. Sorry, usually I prefer Edmunds for all kinds of car info, but occasionally other sites have good info too!
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