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Nissan Maxima

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Comments

  • gg2k2segg2k2se Posts: 109
    Yeah, I usually just press the button a 2nd time. Certainly minor but I was going in for the suspension anyway. What REALLY ANNOYED me was when they asked for $60 to "reprogram the window". I refused so they did it for free, but of course, the problem still remains.

    A co-worker bought a BMW and everytime he takes it to the dealer they press him to come up with a problem with the car, no matter how minor, just so they can fix it. Not exactly Nissan service.
  • bodydoublebodydouble Posts: 801
    that slimeball BMW service department is just trying to pad their warranty claims to BMW.
  • steviebstevieb Posts: 6
    Althought I have an Infiniti I35 (basically the same car), I have experienced the same problem. I've actually had it checked out on 2 different occasions when I've had it at the dealer for service, and they have been unable "to duplicate the problem". I've finally figured out why. My car will do one of two things:

    1. It will respond to 2 pushes of the key fob (lights blink twice to confirm & doors all unlock), but if I hold the button on the 2nd push, the windows only go down about 1/3 of the way and stop. To get them to go down the rest of the way I have to push 2 more times and hold.

    or

    2. It will only respond to the 1st push of the button (driver's door unlocks, lights flash once), doesn not respond to the 2nd push of the button, then I have to push the button 2 more times to unlock the rest of the doors and hold the button on the 4th push. Then the windows will go all the way down.

    I've found that the car will only "misperform" if it's been sitting for a couple of hours. If I try it right after I have driven it, or if I try it again after initially unlocking/having the windows go down, it works perfect everytime thereafter.

    At least now I think I know how I can get it to "misperform" when I take in for service the next time, so the dealer doesn't think I'm crazy.

    If anyone has successfully been able to get this problem diagnosed and corrected, I would sure like to here what the fix was.

    Thanks
  • aggiedogaggiedog Posts: 238
    I have an 02 SE. How far away are you guys when you try to put the windows down? I've noticed with my car, if I'm say 50 feet or more away, it only goes down the 2 inches, but when I'm close to the car (inside 10 feet), the windows go down all the way each time. By the way. Does anyone else think the remote key fob has an absurdly long range. I have literally locked/unlocked my car doors from about 75 yards! I have a 4 runner that will not lock/unlock outside of 20 feet. Just interested to know if mine some how has super powers.
  • gg2k2segg2k2se Posts: 109
    My window down failures all happen when I am within 10 feet of the car...I've been carefully testing it all summer long, trying to eliminate any variables.

    My fob has normal range, nothing extraordinary, but as we all know it's style, not range that's important.

    Well, at least we're talking fob problems instead of transmissions.

    gg
  • does anyone know what the APR nissan is now offering on 2003 maximas? i am looking to buy one soon. i have a 1994 nissan altima and it has been a good car. did a lot of research and this car has a lot of great features for the money. want to get the SE in Sheer Silver with sunroof and titanium package(because i want that BOSE 6-disc CD changer). just want to get the lowest APR i can along with the best price. thanks
  • bartalk2bartalk2 Posts: 326
    The new Max will be out next March, based on the Altima platform. A recent story in the press said Nissan/Infiniti has too many cars in the same general price range: Altima, Max, I35, G35, the new the new Nissan sports cars (350), etc. Article said Nissan will push Maxima upmarket a bit.
  • regfootballregfootball Posts: 2,166
    Considering a bit the idea of trading and getting into a Maxima.

    Question....how easy to replace factory radio in Maxima....is it a double din or a proprietary radio? I want to have a car with an mini-input to hook up my mp3 jukebox......

    thanks.
  • hammer19hammer19 Posts: 31
    I've had no real problems with my windows on my '03 SE, but I have encountered an "X-File" with my door locks on two occasions lately. I've been using a product called Zaino to polish my new ride and since I've completed the process on the car, on two occasions the doors have locked when I've been rubbing the polish excess off. Now this stuff claims to be extremely anti-static to help to keep airborne dust off the car, but I'm wondering if the combination of the polish and the tires has created a static electric situation that somehow "grounds" itself when I touch it in certain situations, causing the doors to lock on their own (?) Has anyone had a similar experience? It's not the end of the world but it sure is a little strange (...and my wife assures me that she's not playing games from inside the house with the other remote just to mess with me, ...can she be trusted????)
  • bodydoublebodydouble Posts: 801
    Have you also spotted crop circles around your house? :)
  • 66falcon66falcon Posts: 17
    Yea, I've never had a car that locks the doors on its own until my '01 GLE, and yea I use Zaino, too(pretty great stuff, by the way). I have a habit of leaving the keys in the ignition overnight in the garage( a really rural area I live in), and more frequently than I'd like, I'll come out the next morning and find the doors locked. I've wondered if my wife while in the house and looking for something in her purse maybe trips her remote without even knowing it. And, yea, as somebody earlier mentioned, these remotes are powerful.

    In a different vein, I wonder if somebody could comment on what a mechanic told me today when I took my car in for an oil change and tire rotation. This guy told me to be sure and retorque my lug nuts after 25 miles of driving. This is only the 2nd time I've had a car with alloys, but I've had rotations done a number of times on my last two cars, and no one ever mentioned such a thing. Sorry if this is a pretty elementary question, but I'd just never heard about this before. I mean, don't they tighten those nuts with some sort of really powerful air wrench?
  • habitat1habitat1 Posts: 4,282
    My Honda S2000's doors are designed to relock automatically after about 30 seconds if the remote has been used to unlock the doors, but neither door is actually opened. I have experienced this when washing the car (i.e. use remote to unlock doors, but don't open one immediately). Perhaps the Maxima also does this, and it's just coincidental that you are waxing the car at the time??
  • 92drexel92drexel Posts: 153
    I think re-torquing is only needed when the rims are new. The idea is that the rims are 'breaking' in and may compress a little, so re-torquing may be needed to ensure a tight lug fit. Here's a link from tirerack.com (read the very last paragraph):


    http://www.tirerack.com/installer/package_install.html


    Also, those air wrenches are bad news because over-torquing can cause a few problems as well (warped rotors, etc). Investing in a good torque wrench (< $40) might be a good idea.

  • vanbo57vanbo57 Posts: 46
    I've got an '01 SE with the CC package - bought it new (2 miles). Car now has 14,500 miles and I have been getting the oil changed every 3,000 miles, +_ and have had the RE92s rotated once. I am considering going to the dealer for their prescribed service for the 1 year service but it seems like a real rip-off. Here is what their "Service Level 3" consists of;
    Oil / filter change
    27 point safety inspection
    Replace air filter
    Inspect brakes, exhaust system, steering gear componants, CV boots and suspension parts.
    Set engine timing.
    Adjust fan belts.
    Set cooling system.
    Rotate tires as required.
    Check shocks & struts.
    Service battery.
    Clean and adjust brakes.
    The price that they want for this is $275 plus tax. Some of that stuff seems un-neccessary unless there are some kind of symptoms. My car has been flawless. Not even a squeak or rattle for the most part. There is a "Service level 2" which is a 7500 mile / 6 month service which consists of;
    Oil / filter
    Lube chasis & hinges
    27 point safety inspection
    Top off all fluids
    Rotate tires as needed
    Inspect brakes, exhaust system, steering gear componants, CV boots and suspension parts.
    Set engine timing.
    Adjust fan belts.
    Clean & adjust brakes.
    This service = $160. The only thing that I see that I should get and is not included at the 7500 mile service is the air filter. Niether of these "service levels" includes the in cabin filter replacement which I think goes for around $100 more or less.
    I can get the basic stuff done at my local Midas, (oil/filter, rotate, lube, air filter and basic inspection probably for quite a bit less $$ but I wouldnt want them touching the engine. My gas mileage is not bad and car performs fine so the engine timing must be alright so it doesn't need to be checked. What do you think - should I spend the extra $$ for dealer service and be (logistically) inconvinienced or is the (tried and true) Midas place alright? Just looking for opinions. Thanks all.
  • hammer19hammer19 Posts: 31
    I fell into that trap with my local dealer when I first had my '97 SE. I tried to follow their "recommended service schedule" because I was worried about having a new more sophisticated car than I had ever owned before, but after about a year or two realized that I was just wasting money. Sure, the dealer has the so-called expertise (hopefully), but they also had the highest prices and the longest list of things that "needed" to be done each time. My opinion would be to follow the owner's manual as closely as you can, consider the type of driving you do the most of, and don't worry too much. Regular maintenance, such as oil changes, are a no-brainer, but the really hi-tech sort of stuff that they recommend should be approached with some common sense. These cars are really built well and most things will not become troublesome unless you notice a definite problem. My '97 was practically bullet-proof. Aside from an oxygen sensor after the second year and a bent rim thanks to a pot-hole in the fourth year, I only worried about oil-changes, tire-rotations, and topping up my fluids. My car had 145000 km (91000 miles) on it when I sold it to purchase my new '03 SE, and the car ran as good as new. The new owner has no idea how excellent a used car he got from me! Anyway, everyone has an opinion and that's mine.
  • bodydoublebodydouble Posts: 801
    My '95 SE was bullet-proof too in the 4+ years I had it. Zero warranty repair other than those pesky O2 sensors that needed replacement 4 times. Mechanically it was like new when I sold it and I felt 110% confident the new owner inherited an excellent car.
  • bodydoublebodydouble Posts: 801
    Nissans do not have auto-relock like Hondas do, so the situations encountered by hammer and falcon are unexplainable. In falcon's case, it's even more weird because I don't believe you can even lock the car when the key is in the ignition. It's the anti-lockout feature.

    BTW, falcon, I'm not sure if it is a good idea to leave the key in the ignition overnight even if you live in safe area and no one will steal your car. You could inadvertently drain your battery by leaving accessories on. Doesn't leaving the key in the ignition overrides the auto-off feature for the headlights?
  • habitat1habitat1 Posts: 4,282
    You didn't say how long you owned the car and how much milage you put on it per year. As I recall from my 1995 owners manual, there were two recommended service schedules: one for "hard" driving - low milage city driving and one for "regular" driving.

    I put roughly 16k-20k mostly highway miles a year on my 1995 and have gone to skipping the 7.5k mile service intervals. I still change the oil every 4k miles. If I were you, I might be tempted to go with whatever the "standard" 15k mile service entails, but then consider skipping the 7.5k mile intervals, especially if you are putting 15k+ miles per year of relatively easy driving on the car.
  • oilers1oilers1 Posts: 17
    Run away from that dealer fast, some of the things on that list make no sense.
    Adjust engine cooling?????
    Set timing, controlled by the ECM, no adjustments necessary
    Adjust fan belts, no such thing as the fans are electric.
    Clean and adjust brakes, go to the wand wash and hose them down to clean them. Parking brake is the only brake that can be adjusted. Does your parking brake hold on a grade? If so it doesn't need to be adjusted.
    Service the battery--they clean the terminals (if necessary) and add distilled water (if necessary).
    Does you car stop well, are all the lights working? You've just performed your own safety check. The only thing that is necessary is the oil change and maybe the rotation. The air filter (I assume engine) is due to be changed at 30k mi, but it doesn't hurt to pull it out and take a look at it. Max you need to spend is $50 IMHO. Dealers will do everything in their power to make you spend more $$$$$.
  • just looked at www.carmax.com (location in g'ville south carolina in particular) and they sell new nissans. they have a '03 SE with sunroof, floor mats and trunk mat for $24,698. the MSRP is $27,226 and the invoice price is $24,772. they what they call a NO HAGGLE PRICE so $24,698 is what they are selling for which is BELOW invoice!! great deal expecially being a '03.
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