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Nissan Maxima

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Comments

  • kyleknickskyleknicks Posts: 433
    i wasn't sure when the maxima changed from a belt to using a timing chain.. now i know its with the 95 maxima's
  • ace3013ace3013 Posts: 1
    I have been following the forum for a while and I am now ready to purchase a 04 SE base model. This is what I have so far.

    invoice $24780
    customer incentive -1000
    dealer hold back 3% -813
    destination +560

    Supposed dealer cost in car $23527 What should I pay ? Am I missing anything? There are lots in the New Orleans area so they are not in short supply. Is 24 a reasonable price?
    I am looking for a plain SE and would like to know if my numbers are correct. Do the rebates traditionally run out at the beginning of the new year.

    I am looking for a Champagne mist color (Plain GOLD). Will it be available in 05?
    Was it availalble all of 04, seems to have disappeared from the end of the year 04 booklets ?

    Will the $1000 rebate continue into 05? How about the 2% financing? Is there any thing new on the horizon I might wait for ?

    Are there any factory to dealer rebates that are not publicized ?

    I have come across several used 04s at dealers with 16-25 thousand miles. How do dealers decide on a used price because they don't show up in Edmunds, kelly or the NADA book? What is the formula? If a new 04 is $24 a perfect used one is worth $20,21,22??

    Thanks for the help and sorry for thr stupid questions!!
  • bowke28bowke28 Posts: 2,185
    try to dip into dealer holdback at your own risk. some dealers will flat out stop negotiations if you do. just because you know about it doesnt mean its a negotiable amount. not only that, but its not a profit center. its assistance from the manufacturer in paying for the floorplan interest. also, the holdback is a dwindling amount. the assistance is usually used up within 90 days from the car's arrival on the lot. stick to invoice or above minus the rebates, and you should be OK.
  • pernaperna Posts: 533
    Try $24k OTD. Don't mention holdback or the rebate. Let 'em squeak you up to $24.5k if need be, but that's as high as I would go. They want to dump '04s, not keep them around as lawn ornaments.
  • pernaperna Posts: 533
    Almost forgot - the rebate and any special financing will certainly go away on the '05s, and probably won't reappear until after Christmas. That is just my observation shopping for Nissan products over the last couple years (I bought an '03 Max in 03/03, and my folks just took delivery of an '04 Quest yesterday).
  • diz1diz1 Posts: 5
    Just wanted some feedback. I have been researching and am looking to buy a 99, 00, or 01 Maxima and will be doing a fair amount of driving on longer trips. Is this car comfortable during these long journeys. I am a bigger guy 6'3" and want to be comfortable. I am narrowing down my choices to Maxima, Accord, or Camry. Any feedback would be great. Thanks.
  • habitat1habitat1 Posts: 4,282
    I have a 1995 4th generation Maxima (95-99) w/ 153k miles. I have the SE version that has more supportive seats w/ manual lumbar support, compared to the standard seats of the GXE model.

    I would rate the comfort of the Maxima on longer trips as about a 5-6 on a scale of 10. I'm not as tall as you, but have minor back problems and I can last 5-6 hours of highway driving with minimal rest stops. However, my wife would rate the passenger seat a 4, since it does not have any lumbar support. Compared to the Accord or Camry, I would say theat the 1995 Maxima SE (and likely 1999) was clearly superior to either of these. They offered little or no side bolstering or lumbar support at that time. Newer versions may have improved, but I doubt they were better than the Maxima, since both are considered less luxurious.

    For what it's worth, our 2004 Acura TL has about every new technology you could want in a car, a great 6-speed gearbox, far improved handling and performance, but seats that hardly rate any better than our 1995 Maxima. With the exception of my former Honda S2000 (seats made by Recaro), I just don't think the Japanese get it, when it comes to seat design and comfort. A bottom of the line Volvo or BMW is far superior to most [non-permissible content removed][anese "premium" sedans in seat comfort. But try them out yourself.

    P.S. I focused primarily on seat comfort. Our 1995 Maxima drives great on the highway. The 3.0 liter V6 has very good power and the car handles and tracks very well. The same cannot be said for a 4-cylinder Camry or Accord and even the V6 Camry is pretty weak, IMO. Besides seat comfort, I wouldn't want to "drive" either of these others on long trips nearly as much as the Maxima.
  • suydamsuydam Posts: 997
    This is the best car I have ever had for long trips ('01 GLE). I drive 300 miles to a conference every spring and in the past always arrived completely exhausted. The first time I took the trip in the Max I felt fine when I got there -- couldn't believe how much difference great seats and suspension can make! My son, who is 6'3", loves this car. The power seat adjustments are wonderful and so intuitive you can change them while driving. We have two children who live 500 and 600 miles away respectively and this is our vehicle for those kinds of trips. You won't be sorry. I would definitely get the GLE though as the stiffer suspension in the SEs can be tiring on long trips according to some. You do sacrifice some handling but on major highways this isn't really an issue.
  • jbarkanjbarkan Posts: 1
    I purchased the maxima new, in december of 2000. I have approximately 20,000 miles on the car. I was just told by the Nissan service center the car requires new front and rear brakes. I also just recently replaced the alternator as well.
    Just want new owners of Nissan Maximas' to know the brakes and alternator may need replacement with low mileage on the car. Toyota will be my next car. Disatisfied with Maxima wear and tear.
  • kyleknickskyleknicks Posts: 433
    have known brake problems... from wearing out way too quickly to warped rotors...

    i had my 2000 maxima rotors turned at 15k, 35k, and recently got a new brake job with new pads and turned rotors at 42k miles. Even now, i think the rotors aren't right... so i'll be looking to replace with aftermarket rotors and pads when the wintertime comes..
  • I have used 3 Toyota's before I purchased to 2004 Maxima . I have changed brakes for Corolla @20K miles. Sienna @35K miles and Camry @29k miles. So far I am very much satisfied with Maxima performance. As per your note, looks like I have to change brakes like I did to my Toyota's before.
  • leonivleoniv Posts: 120
    You shouldn't need new brakes at only 20k miles, unless you street race your car. I have an 01 and replaced the front pads at 33k only because I was replacing the rotors, but I had over 50% of the pad left. I think your Nissan dealer is trying to rip you off. Have them lift your car and show you the worn out pads on your car, I bet they won't do it.

    The maximas are notorious for getting warped rotors. Cutting (aka turning) them is pointless. The rotors are bad by design b/c they are too small for the car. By cutting them, you're just making the problem worse. If the rotors warp, throw them out and get some aftermarket rotors, don't bother with the dealer. I used Brembo Blanks (half the price of Nissan rotors) on mine and so far so good.
  • suydamsuydam Posts: 997
    you shouldn't need new brakes at 20,000 miles. That should at least be covered under warranty. I have almost 40,000 miles on my '01 and no brake problems at all. But I do think newer cars, not just Maximas, do seem to need rotor replacement earlier than they used to.
  • kyleknickskyleknicks Posts: 433
    how much were the bremo blanks?
  • Ron2,

    I have a similar problem with my 04 Maxima since I drove it off the lot. I brought it to 4 different dealerships and had alignment done twice, the steering column adjusted, and the tires were replaced because of wearing after 6000 miles! I called Consumer Affairs at Nissan and the management never called back, even after I had an appointment. I then got a Lemon Law lawyer, to have the car replaced. She is not very encouraging with her prognosis either. I would love to have some more proof of others having this problem when I went to court to shove down Nissans throat. Any help would be great. DonHall
  • leonivleoniv Posts: 120
    $50/ea from tirerack (Nissan rotors are over $100/ea). Shipping was only a few dollars so in total it was about $110 for both, shipped to my doorstep. You can find them a few dollars cheaper elsewhere, but my neigbor and I have had good experiences with tirerack so I continue to shop there.
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    Did they show you the alignment specs before and after each alignment? Improper toe in setting is the primary reason for premature tire wearing, mostly on their edge (tire scrubbing). Manufacturers usually give a range of acceptable toe in values ranging from a negative fraction of a degree to some positive fraction. The problem is that many dealerships will adjust the toe in within this range, but the settings are not necessarily equal for both wheels. The settings must be equal for the tire wear to be minimized. For example, if one wheel is set to + 0.05 degrees positive toe-in, the other wheel should be the same. If the other wheel is set to say - 0.1 degrees, expect heavy wear on one of the tires within short period of time. I have been there and seen it on my 99 Mazda. It came from the factory with unequal toe in setting, but still within manufacturer's acceptable range. By the time I had 8000 miles on the car, one of front tires was almost worn out on its edge. It was until the toe in was adjusted equal for both wheels that uneven tire wear stopped.
  • ccermakccermak Posts: 260
    Anybody ever use one of these GEN2 performance module things being advertised under EBAY right here on this screen?? Says they advance the timing and fuel map to give better HP. Is this a viable mod or junk like the Tornado?
  • kennyg5kennyg5 Posts: 360
    I don't have an answer for you, but I do have a question. If and after you mod the car, will the manufacturer/dealership honor the warranty (assuming you have an extended warranty on your GEN 2)? Would it be possible that they claim that the mod altered the specs of the car and thus void the warranty?
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    Try doing a search on SEMA and Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act.

    Personally, I like to mod new vehicles. I will usually call the service manager and ask his opinion on the items I plan to mod. On my last vehicle the only mod that he objected to was to add a supercharger as the HP output would exceed the manufacturer's recommendation for the trans and rear end.
  • My 2004 maxima ha been in the shop 3 times. When I hit the brakesit pulls to the left and drifts on the highway. 3 Times they said nothing is wrong with the front end! I think there is plus I think the Goodyear tires aren't the right tire for a SE
  • I have a 2k Maxima with 45000 mile. The exhaust is getting louder by the day. I don't think it is coming from the muffler, maybe the resonator. Has anyone replaced the whole system from the catalytic conveter back? If so how much? Also how much for just the stock muffler? Thanks.
    Jim
  • The muffler is Stainless Steel so that shouldn't need replacement, ever. Maybe you've got a loose connection at the exhaust mainfold or a pipe connection that's loose.

    Mine's (02 SE) got 142,xxx and is still original and still sounds just like it did when new.

    My 95 Maxima when totaled with 192,xxx mniles on it still had the original exhaust system as well and was in great condition.

    IMO, there's a very small chance that you need a entire new exhaust system on a 2k Maxima with less than 100k.

    Maxima's stock exhaust systems are very, very durable.
  • diz1diz1 Posts: 5
    Does anyone know whether you need to run premium gas in your Maxima. I am in the market for a 2000 or 2001 and with gas prices an curious if I need to burn premium or if unleaded will do fine. Thanks for the feedback.
  • rampedramped Posts: 358
    Regular is fine, but premium maximizes the engine's potential.
  • habitat1habitat1 Posts: 4,282
    O.K., another quarterly lesson on regular vs. premium. I'll try to keep this one brief.

    In my area (DC) it is relatively easy to find premium gas on "sale" for 6 cents off every Tuesday, Wednesday, or Thursday, at various Exxon, BP/Amoco, Shell or other national brand stations. On sale, the difference in price between regular and premium is usually less than 10-12 cents. That's about 5-6%.

    Based upon my experience and that of others, there is ample anecdotal evidence that you will very likely lose around 5%+ in gas mileage in a Maxima dropping from premium to regular. Over the course of 153,000 miles, I have averaged 24.1 mpg on premium. A 5% loss is only 1.2 mpg.

    So, if you'd rather fill up more often for less money, go ahead and use regular. But don't fool yourself that you are actually saving money. AND, although others may disagree, I do not believe that regular is as good for your engine as premium, in a vehicle like the Maxima that was designed for premium. As I said, I have 153,000 miles on nothing but premium and change my oil every 4,000 miles or less. I may be old fashioned, but the engine compression test on my 10 year old Maxima showed between 95% and 100% of a new car tolerance on all 6 cylinders. Those results speak for themselves, in my opinion.

    Save money by upping your insurance deductable and driving more carefully. Not by skimping on premium gas.
  • rampedramped Posts: 358
    Since the gas prices went haywire last spring, and since I am getting rid of my Maxima soon anyway, I've been using exclusively regular in my '92 SE.

    The mileage and performance are the same. No, I don't believe it either. I just drive it, I don't explain it :)
  • habitat1habitat1 Posts: 4,282
    5-speed or automatic? I had to use regular once or twice due premium pumps being out of order. Where I noticed some difference in performance was under harder acceleration in the high range of the rev band (5,000+). Felt like the rev limiter was kicking in. The first thing the service manager asked me when I mentioned it was "did you use lower octane gas". He indicated the engine management systme will adjust for it, but you will notice lowered performance when the car is "pushed". He also indicated lower gas mileage would be most apparant at 70+ mph on the highway.
  • kennyg5kennyg5 Posts: 360
    I sold my third gen Max last year and I can't recall whether premium gas is recommended. As for the 4th and 5th Max, I am confident that premium gas is recommended, and I have been filling up the cars only with premium.
  • rampedramped Posts: 358
    It's an auto. I'm sure there is some incremental power band loss, but I don't notice it.

    It is going to kill me to give the car up, but month by month more things are going out (ABS, axle, struts, AC compressor is about gone) and it has passed the point where it is economically feasible to bring it back to spec. It only has 126K on it.

    I have a neighbor with a similar model and, like me, he likes his SE so much that he is driving it with terminally bad valves. He figures he will keep on going until it dies. It's got about 160K on it.

    I would love to buy a brand new model of exactly what I have with, of course, updated safety features. Remarkable cars.
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