Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Nissan Maxima

12829313334290

Comments

  • max2001max2001 Posts: 63
    here is a site that gives a great (for us novices) description and step by step guide to fix paint chips on our cars.

    http://www.autopia-carcare.com/painchiprep.html

    Hope its useful.

    rm
  • asleepyasleepy Posts: 70
    I drive a '99 Max SE, manual. At 10K, the alternator belt suddenly shredded off. I didn't hit anything nor was there any sort of a warning. The dealer replaced the belt and checked the rotors surrounding it and found nothing out of the ordinary. At 24K, the same thing happened again. Again, the belt was replaced (this time the alternator belt damaged the A/C belt and one other belt, all replaced) and the dealer could not find the cause of this. While the repairs were done under warranty, it costs me money to rent a car for the day. Plus, I'm afraid to drive this car long distance because if this happens again, I might be stuck somewhere. Has anyone else encountered this problem? Any fixes?
    Thanks.
  • I have a problem with the antenna not fully extending on an occasional basis. It seems to only occur when it's cold - below freezing - for a few days. It did this a few weeks ago and I was told to put sprayable lithium grease on it. Did that - it didn't help. But when it warmed up, the problem fixed itself.
  • lsflsf Posts: 98
    The new models (00 and 01) have the antennas built into the rear window (more incentive to trade for a new one guys!) I would suggest keeping the retracting ones clean (wipe with a clean cloth as it opens or retracts) and oil with a light lubricant (not heavy grease) every once in a while. my 2 cents.
  • When the car isn't completely warmed up it seems to slip between 1st and 2nd gear several times at around 3500rpm before settling into 2nd gear. It's almost like the the tranny is slipping.
  • I have a 91 Maxima SE - well maintained (350K miles - I know, time to get a new one!).

    Anyway. it is still going great except for an intermittent problem for the last couple years (which the dealer and numerous mechanic have attempted to fix). After every few hundred miles or so the engine would start to shudder, not continuously, but then it could happen every few miles. It could happen for a few days in a row, then goes away for another few hundred miles of driving (a week or two).

    Has anyone experienced anything like this?

    I have replaced the wiring harness, computer, ignition cables, vacuum hoses, distributor, fuel pump, fuel injectors and tested with a new air flow meter, to little avail.
  • max2001max2001 Posts: 63
    This has been a problem on many auto 2000 max's. Here's a link to the TSB someone was nice enough to put in PDF format. BTW it was revised in Dec, 2000.

    http://www.his.com/wc/maxima/tsb039.pdf

    rm
  • This is probably a stupid question in this forum BUT I have the option of buying a '96 Infiniti G20 with 82,000 miles or a '94 Maxima SE with 105,000 miles on it for a second family car. Each car is about $7,000.

    I have been in love with the Maxima since it came out but I never bought one and I hate the styling of the new one (post-'94). Now, the mileage on a typical '93 or '94 is over 100,000.

    Should I buy a car this old or buy the slightly newer Infiniti? What are some of the maintenance issues that pop up above 100,000 miles with a Maxima?
  • I'm new to this forum. A few months ago I got a brand new black 2000 GXE (last one in stock, at a bargain). I can't say I've noticed any of the problems others have reported yet, and am very happy with the car, but I do find the ventilation system surprisingly loud for a car in this class. Has anyone else found that, and is there anything to be done about it?
  • wg45678wg45678 Posts: 55
    Q- has anyone checked the alignment of the pulleys (including any idler pulleys)? With this failure and I'd wonder about that.
  • wg45678wg45678 Posts: 55
    exhondaguy said:
    ...Anything that can be done about it?

    I usually turn up the radio :)

    Seriously, not that I know of. I only find it bothersome when using the defroster mode (something I don't need to do often in Southern Az).

    --Walter
  • Item of Interest - I have 96 maxima gxe with bose (big deal)

    Urgent matter - edmunds say the dealer should give me $9500 for my 96 gxe (power driver side seat, moon roof, bose, security system, keyless entry, and something else i forgot.

    Galves service ($4.95 for 24 hours) says my car is only going to bring $7600 from the dealer. Who is right??
  • joenissanjoenissan Posts: 313
    Norbert...The best I do is either use the GS27 or try a little of Nissans touch-up paint. Not being a body gut, that's all the knowledge I can offer.

    Romeo/Pateros...If you've cleaned the antenna properly (windex on a paper towel will do), and used the proper lube (Use DRY SILICONE spray ONLY), then you may need to replace the motor.
    use of any "WET" lube, such as any kind of grease, will collect dirt too fast.

    Sgrd0q...Right...The rears ar not toe adjustable but, all they use the rears for is to line up the front wheels. be sure that your wheels are in fact out of alignment....test them on a FLAT highway, not a crowned road. if you're still not satisfied, then take it back and request they re-do the alignment properly. Even close to spec should keep you from feeling anything out of the norm.
    Yes...you can leave the blower fan alone if it doesn't bother you.

    Asleep...You may have an idler pulley out of wack or even a bad component pulley. The easiest way to tell is to start the car and look for anything other than perfectly straight belt operation...in other words...they should not wobble from side to side...and...KEEP YOUR HANDS AWAY !! LOL...I say this for a reason...I had a customer try and grab the moving belt.

    JmeDocs....TSB# NTB00039 deals with just that problem. Make an appointmebt with the dealer, and give them that number. Good luck.

    Tallawah....have they checked the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor)? That can cause a number of problems...though they usually just go bad..not on and off.....can't hurt to have them check it.

    Brook....A 96 GXE probably won't get you much more than 7g from a dealer. Try selling it privately....and ask 10.5....you may be shocked at the bites you get.

    Joe
  • I guess the folks who did have this problem have dropped out of this group, and although no one else seems to know the solution, I'll ask once more:

    Has anyone diagnosed and/or fixed the leak around the rear passenger windows or door?
  • roar1roar1 Posts: 193
    sgrd0q,

    Apparently there is a TSB on blower noise which involves ordering a cover for the motor. I had this cover installed on my 2kgle and now I can't even hear the motor on LOW speed. Check with your Dealer !!! And yes, the whole HVAC system is louder than in my `86 Max.SE which I find interesting !
  • lsflsf Posts: 98
    I suppose its obvious but....there is a difference between a loud blower and blowing wind noise. If the fan is on high and you hear a lot of wind noise that's normal. If the blower motor is loud, I have heaard about a TSB on that. The dealer should admit if the blower motor is your problem or if it's just a lot of air (which is good).
  • My wife and I are now car shopping. About 18 months ago, we bought a 2000 Forester S, which we love. But, it doesn't have much back seat room. So, we are now focusing on Japanese cars of high mechanical quality.

    The Maxima seems to combine good styling, features, and from what I read here, a great V6 engine. And one seems to be able to expect excellent reliability.

    Any comments - do I seem to be on target here? I did notice a few comments about an annoying wind noise - certainly something to look for in a car we test drive. Should I watch for anything else?

    Thanks for the comments!
  • I don't own this car, but about to buy one or Intrigue (rebate, etc)

    I read one post that you can use reg gas, implying that the engine has a detonation sensor and retards the timing to keep the pistons from getting holes in them. Is this true? Most of my driving is pretty sedate commuting, just gliding along about 45 mph and stoplights. Occassionally I'll get on it for a merge, but I was thinking I could probably use regular. Anyone else use Reg and have problems or not have problems?

    Why the Olds- (looking at the loaded GLS)? Well, its cheaper with more options, handles well, actually about the same or slightly faster with auto. Doesn't come with 17" tires, so hard to compare to the SE but the 225x60x16's are like the GLE. Fully independant suspension, easier to work on the motor for maint., regular gas, lower insurance. But the Max is sportier and a little better looking even with the horrendus rear end IMHO.

    Anyone else compare these two cars? I'm going to a olds/nissan place today again and do back to back test drives and make a decision.

    Funny on the Max how you have to buy the leather to get climate control, and the meridian edition to get a low washer level indicator? I laughed pretty hard reading the options list, my clunker '88 shadow came with a light for if gas was low, and if the wash fluid was low, reading light, lumbar adjustment, etc. Here's a nice car and they don't even have that standard! And intermittant wipers? another option? give me a break.

    Thanks,
    Slope
  • ostrosky - I'd suggest reading the standard Edmunds "recipe" for test drives (you can get to it from edmunds main page through the buying advice link). There are many issues that have been discussed here over the last year - the most significant "problem" being the fuel cut which may be most pronounced if driving downhill at 65 mph on cruise control (you get a slight tug every few seconds). Another problem that has been discussed earlier (but seems to have gone away lately) is a hesitant shift from first to second gear if you accelerate hard. Listen for noises, of course - windows, fans, wheel wells, rattles... Good luck!

    Slope - just a note: Olds might be a collector item one day. I believe you will be happier with Olds, IMHO.
  • norbert444 - Thanks for the advice. BTW, I'm not sure I can test the "fuel cut" question - I live in flat S. Florida. Think I can convince the salesperson to take a test drive to Colorado? Maybe I can find a nearby expressway with a short downhill segment.
  • Any comment I or suggestions on the 2001 Maxima GEL I the 2001 Volvo S60. The Volvo is a little more expensive, but I like the styling better. How is the reliability for each? I've never owned either; I've had Toyota for the last 10 years.
    Thanks for any guidance.
  • Well,

    Both very nice cars, although the Maxima, especially in SE guise is more of a sport sedan. The Volvo S60 is more of a touring sedan. I found the Volvo seats THE most confortable of probably any car I've sat in. As far as reliability, the Maxima is built very well. Consumer Reports reported some serious problems with Volvo trannys especially the S80. I dunno if the S80 tranny carries over to the S60, but other than that I believe Volvos are in general reliable.

    Good luck

    Speed
  • habitat1habitat1 Posts: 4,282
    For what it's worth, check out my post #890 on my 100,000 mile experience with a Maxima. I don't know how much cheaper the Intrigue is, but I have to believe it will depreciate to a much greater degree and long term maintence and repairs will be higher. I was recently offered $11,500 for my '95 Maxima, which, in spite of 102,000 miles, is in near perfect shape. This is 55% of what I paid for it! A quick check of the paper shows few '95 GM cars selling for more than 25% of their original price.

    As for the Volvo S60, I did seriously consider a 850 Turbo when I bought the Maxima. Nice car, but definately more expensive to maintain. Also, the turbo in my neighbor's S70 went out at 75,000 miles and cost him in excess of $3,000.

    Good luck with your choices.
  • tpkentpken Posts: 1,108
    Are there any first hand experiences (or established general knowledge) concerning catastrophic crashes and the body integrity of Maxima? I saw a post somewhere recently that suggested that this car does not hold up well to a severe crash (wish I could remember where I saw the post).

    I am in the market for a new car this year and Maxima has been on my list. Safety and crashworthiness is obviously one very crucial factor.

    Thanks in advance for any responses.

    Ken
  • lsflsf Posts: 98
    Tpken, You probably saw a post written by a guy who was sandwiched (I think the guy behind him was hit hard in the rear and was slammed into his car. The problem this guy had was that the air bags didn't deploy. There not supposed to on a rear end collision. Yeah the guy had some injuries, but he's alive and well now and was on a crusade against Nissan for a while last summer and fall.

    Slope, Intermittent wipers are standard, what isn't standard are the variable intermittent. If you're looking at the GLE, you probably know that most everything is standard on the GLE. The upgrades off the base GLE include: meridien (heated seats and side mirrors, side air bags and low washer fluid light (I agree that's an odd one)), 6 CD changer, sunroof and .... that's about it I think. I would suggest sticking with premium gas. You can try going down a grade, but the lower grade fuels fire sooner.

    Ostrosky...the fuel cut problem is an 5 spd issue. You'll like the GLE, it has more room in front and rear than the Forester. It is a very solid feeling car. I like mine a lot. 6400 miles, bought Aug. 00.
  • Isf - Thanks. I'm glad I joined the Edmunds forum and posted. Already the info on here is really helping me confirm that my choice is a good one. My wife agrees.

    Now, all we have to do is to hassle with the dealers.

    Thanks again everyone for your ideas and keep them coming.

    If I buy a Maxima, I'll make certain to revisit after the purchase and offer my experiences.
  • (Just 2c of buying advice)
    Edmunds will equip you with all the details of Maxima pricing and negotiating strategies, so dealers cannot pull wool over your eyes. Which makes you an informed buyer.

    Also, you can get (and print) quotes from online companies (CarsDirect.com, Priceline.com, several others) and take those printouts to help you cut hours from negotiation. I actually bought online and saved myself several $g as well as most of the hassles.
  • lofquistlofquist Posts: 281
    Folks,
    As long as we're talking deals on 2001's, don't forget about the option to go to Canada to buy and save money. I bought in Canada in September and all went very smoothly. The posts I've made before have been lost many pages back so I will summarize again here.

    So why would you do this? Save some big money! The exchange rate just keeps getting better for the US. Here's some sample selling prices for Maximas in Canada (converted to US dollars, and including duty):
    1) Maxima GXE, auto trans, traction control, and convenience pkg. Convenience pkg contains everything in the Meridian and Com and Con pkgs. $21,100. (US dealer invoice is $22,740)
    2) Maxima SE 20th Anniv Edition. Auto trans. Includes traction control, Bose, Meridian pkg, and leather. Does not have the ground effects though. $23,800. (US dealer invoice is $28,006)
    3) Maxima GLE. Auto trans. Includes traction control, sunroof, Meridian pkg. $23,100. (US dealer invoice is $25,852)

    Here's the answers to the most asked questions:
    - Yes, it's perfectly legal as a US resident to buy a new car in Canada.
    - Maxima meets all US safety and emissions requirements (California too).
    - You will have to pay some Canadian sales taxes, but they send you a refund after you take the vehicle out of the country.
    - The warranty is honored in the US.
    - It's identical to the US Max, but in Canada they come better equipped with options.
    - Speedo is in km and miles; odo is in km, but can be changed if you prefer.
    - Yes, I have found some dealers willing to sell over the phone at close to invoice, far below list price.
    - Get your financing at home first.

    Quick summary of the process:
    1. Call dealer and make a deal. Get VIN number.
    2. Call Nissan and get US emissions and safety compliance letter (will fax if in a hurry).
    3. Go to Canada, pay, drive away.
    4. Stop at Canadian customs. Get a form stamped.
    5. Stop at US Customs. Show compliance letter. Pay 2.5% duty.
    6. Register vehicle and pay your state's sales tax when home just like normal.
    7. Get Canadian sales tax refund check in the mail.

    As I said it went smoothly for me and I know of over twenty others who have followed my lead for either a Maxima or a Pathfinder. It's not difficult at all. Sure, there's a little paperwork to do. And many people are surprised how close to Canada they really are. Anyone from Chicago to D.C. is easily within a one days drive of Toronto. And much of the West Coast is close to Vancouver.

    I'll be glad to help anyone out with questions or good contacts. Just email me.

    -Jon
    jonlofquist@aol.com
  • Ostrosky - and others, you might want to check out this exhaustive test drive advice and checklist:

    http://popularmechanics.com/popmech/cbg/guide/2001/features/2000CBGFCM.html
  • habitat1habitat1 Posts: 4,282
    Lofquist,

    Very interesting post. I have been looking at 1.52+ Canadian Dollars to US Dollar and thinking of buying a BMW in Canada. 540i 6-speed could be had for about $48,000, or at least $6,000 less than in US. However, the BMW dealership that I contacted (B-K Motors in Ontario) said BMW of North America strongly discourages such cross border sales. The customs office I contacted also said it can be difficult to get the emissions compliance letter out of BMW. Any experience with BMW or other comments/suggestions?? Thanks.
Sign In or Register to comment.